Hike Mt. Shasta

Fire in the sky, flame in the water on a Mount Shasta sunset.

After the Long Winter, it follows that we have a long spring as well. This is certainly the case, as snow lingers even at lower elevations and the rivers and creeks are running very full as summer encroaches. Many of the lakes remain frozen as well. With beautiful warm weather (when not consumed by the persistent afternoon thunderstorms) and high water, this is a fantastic time to explore the region around Mount Shasta.

Over the last week, I have been collecting footage and images of some of the creeks and rivers to give an idea what the area looks like at this time. Needless to say, it is an glorious spring, with full, raging rivers, creeks that are surging through their remote and seldom seen canyons, and lakes filled to the brim. Obviously I can’t document all of them, but to give some indication of what is afoot out here, I have tried to document rivers and creeks in several different areas.

What better place to start than with the Sacramento River, the largest waterway in the Mount Shasta area. In this area the Klamath River is bigger than the Sacramento but it is just beyond the immediate Mount Shasta orbit so I am not counting it here. The river is swollen and full of fury. The North Fork of the Sacramento, the smallest of the three forks, is flowing powerfully into the main fork, which is wide and swift.

The Middle Fork of the Sacramento joins the South Fork nearly a mile and a half upstream from the confluence with the North Fork. Like its sibling, the Middle Fork is running strong, with a heavy flow pouring into South Fork, which is the primary headwaters stream of the Sacramento River.

The South Fork itself is much larger than the Middle and North Forks and is also flowing with great vigor. The source of the North Fork is a large complex of meadows and the source of the Middle Fork is a trio of lakes and a series of smaller meadows and springs. In contrast, the South Fork has 10 lakes, numerous smaller tarns and a large complex of meadows. It keeps the South Forks flow going even late in the summer of dry years. Right now, the river is charging through its rocky canyon and is a satisfying sight to behold.

The South Fork has numerous secondary drainages that empty into the river. Some, like the lower one included in this pair, are from glacial lakes that occupy large basins. Others, like the upper one, are from smaller watersheds that fed by small patches of meadows and springs. Regardless of the source, these are all flowing with vigor right now.

The above creek is a major tributary of the South Fork of the Sacramento but is utterly unappreciated since the majority of its flow travels a deep canyon that few, if any hikers traverse. Those who do will find a large creek with delightful cascades and beautiful waterfalls from feeder creeks. The high water makes a trip down creeks like this a fantastic journey for those who love wild water.

Higher up, snow still lingers in many places and though the grass is green, many plants are just emerging from their winter dormancy. Within a few weeks, wildflowers should begin erupting from these meadows.

To the north, Parks Creek is one of the largest creeks to emerge from the Trinity Divide (or the Scott Mountains, depending on how the boundary between the ranges is parsed). Long ago, this was recognized as the North Fork of the Shasta River. It’s source is in the lakes and meadows of Caldwell Basin on China Mountain.

Right now, it too has strong flow as it leaps down its rocky channel through a deep, remote and nearly inaccessible canyon. Those few who venture down into this wild land will find a creek choked with Pacific yew trees. Though not uncommon along the region’s creeks and rivers, this number of yews lining the banks is as unusual as it is impressive.

This unnamed creek is a significant tributary of Parks Creek. The lower section of this anonymous waterway drops precipitously down to the confluence with Parks Creek. Like the other creeks in Northern California, it has great flow right now, making exploring its remote route down the mountain a joy.

The McCloud River, the second largest river in the immediate Mount Shasta area is running deep and urgently. With the foliage leafing out and the rhubarb flowering, this is a great time to hike any stretch of the 15 miles of the McCloud River Trail. Naturally the section along the falls gets the most attention but the rest of the trail is a delightful riverside path. Conditions can’t be better along it than right now.

Upper McCloud Falls is the most geologically complex of the river’s three cataracts. Just above the precipice, the river has cut a deep trough through the basalt. Potholes and alcoves abound and cause the water to churn as it races through the sluice. The water finally leaps off the cliff, crashes into a ledge and explodes into a fan as it pours into a deep pool. With water this high, the spectacle is particularly dramatic.

The highlight of the McCloud River is Middle Falls. Here the canyon is at its deepest, the river the widest and the falls the tallest. It is simply one of the best waterfalls in Northern California. From above the falls, the view of the canyon, river and distant peaks of the Trinity Divide is a classic mountain vista. The falls themselves need no further descriptors or superlatives.

Even Mud Creek, one of the largest creeks to come off of Mount Shasta itself is running with force right now. True to its name, the water is chocolaty, choked with mud from the cinders and glacial till that makes up Mud Creek Canyon. The creek is currently carving a new channel for itself, having first filled its banks with debris then jumped the channel, flooded the forest and nearby meadows and is now digging back in along a new route. It has been a fascinating process to watch.

This really is a special time to be out exploring the area around Mount Shasta. Whether on trail or off, there is magic in the mountains and great beauty to behold.