Seldom Seen

Great spots that are not well known or well traveled.

Seldom Seen – Antelope Creek Headwaters

Posted by bubbasuess on February 18, 2023
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen. 1 Comment

A rocky point hides in shadow above Lower Antelope Creek Lake. 

While the west side of Mount Shasta is well documented in terms of the many spectacular destinations that are found there, the east side of the mountain is far less well known. In fact, it is safe to say that it is almost totally unknown, except by a handful of people that have some kind of connection to the land and communities that are tucked away in this vast region. Nonetheless, some of the Mount Shasta area’s most spectacular landscapes and interesting geologic landmarks are to be found hidden away in this dark part of the map.

Part of the reason why the area is not well known is that it remains a vast patchwork of private timberlands interspersed with properties owned by the USFS. This makes access to some areas challenging and thus, far less visited than other destinations around Mount Mount Shasta. There are, nonetheless, some fascinating and spectacular sights to behold in the mountain’s eastern demesnes.

The glacial valley of Antelope Creek.

One of the most beautiful and intriguing areas is the headwaters of Antelope Creek. This is one of two creeks that flow out of the Cascade crest east of Mount Shasta that drain into endorheic basins. Butte Creek is further west and flows north before turning east, passing beautiful Orr Lake and draining into the eponymously named Butte Valley. Here it dissipates in the wetlands of Meiss Lake. Antelope Creek begins further east, but in the most rugged section of the Cascade crest. Here several small lakes and meadows contribute water the burgeoning creek as it flows through a wide glacial canyon. Once exiting the canyon the creek flows north past Tennant and hits a sink at the base of Cedar Mountain.

A hoodoo emerges from the lake.

The lakes that constitute the headwaters of Antelope Creek are some of the prettiest in the area. This is in part due to their unusual geology. Most of the lakes in the Mount Shasta region are found in the Trinity Divide and are set granite and ultramafic rock basins. The mountains east of Mount Shasta are volcanic and have far fewer lakes. Most of these are small, shallow and ringed with trees. The lakes at the headwaters of Antelope Creek are exceptions to this rule, being bound by tall volcanic cliffs, talus slopes and one even boasts an unusual, mushroom-like volcanic hoodoo emerging from the waters. It is a unexpected and unusual features to behold. The other lakes, though not quite as distinct are still beautiful and rarely visited specimens.

If there is a problem with this lovely setting, it is that significant portions of it burned a few years ago. Where once pristine forests marched up the slopes of the U-shaped valley, now many swaths of trees are burned. Beautiful groves of aspen lined the creek at the bottom of the valley and many of these are reduced to charred stumps. Thankfully some remain since the fire moves in irregular paths at times. The lakes and meadows were spared the fire’s wrath as well, leaving some of the area’s highlights untouched.

Though as the crow flies, it is not far from Mount Shasta, in terms of access, the Antelope Creek Headwaters are distant and remote and access is difficult in some areas. Nonetheless, it remains an incredible destination where great rewards await for those few who seek to explore it.

Click to enlarge:

Seldom Seen: 2020’s Rarely Observed Waterfalls And Cascades Of The Mount Shasta Area

Posted by bubbasuess on October 25, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Waterfalls. 2 Comments

An epic view of New Coquette Falls and Mount Shasta.

I am not sure how it happened, but somehow 2020 became the year of the seldom seen waterfall. At least this was the case in where and to what I was using my hiking time to explore. The Mount Shasta area certainly has its share of waterfalls, but it is surprising how many great waterfalls are completely overlooked or totally lost in the community consciousness. While this is not a bad thing necessarily, since it keeps some of these waterfalls wild, it remains surprising to me nonetheless. I am not sure at what point it happened, but tracking them down became an object of focus this year for a myself and a friend of mine. It proved to be an excellent goal this year, giving us an opportunity to spend time outside and explore some little appreciated areas, especially during the crazy virus summer when Mount Shasta received unprecedented visitation. Shockingly, despite reaching so many waterfalls and cascades, we left several still on the table. These will be the subject of exploration next year!

For now, I want to document the gems thus far discovered. Some of them are small and serene while other are massive and powerful. It stands as a testimony to the diversity and beauty of Mount Shasta and the surrounding area. More beckons to be explored.

The first waterfall I hit this year is one of my favorites. An old favorite, it wasn’t a new discovery but it was new for my kids, who really enjoyed the pool at the fall’s precipice.

Not too far upstream is another nice cataract. Roughly 30 feet in height, it is located in a beautiful granite grotto. There is more to explore upstream, but this one makes a nice turnaround point for a short but gorgeous hike.

This one is pretty remote, though not far from Mount Shasta as the crow flies. It is on the west side of the China Mountain area. There was a surprising amount of fascinating history on the way to this one.

Another view of the same waterfall. It is certainly one of the taller waterfalls in the area. A few on Mount Shasta and Burstarse Falls in the Castle Crags are taller, but this one still ranks in terms of height.

These cataracts in the Scott Mountains are gone by midsummer but during late spring/early summer they are powerful and exquisite. Great views of Mount Eddy and Mount Shasta abound!

Another nice set of cataracts further up the same creek. Just beyond is small but idyllic “Survey Meadow”. Not many make it out to this area.

“Terrace Falls” is a beautiful series of cascades surrounded by large Port Orford Cedars. This is on the inlet to a popular lake, but it rarely gets the due that it ought. When flowing, it is a serene spot.

This one is on a creek that is “a canyon too far”, nearly adjacent to popular destinations. About 15 feet high, it pours off a slick rock precipice and immediately slams into a huge boulder. Getting here requires some work and the willingness to descend a steep, loose washout.

Just upstream from the previous falls, this is one of the Mount Shasta area’s best waterfalls, though it is almost totally unknown. Sheer and powerful, the water hurtles itself over the edge. People would be shocked how close this waterfall is but how utterly forgotten it remains.

One of my favorites of the summer, this is on a large, well-known creek but on a stretch that is rarely explored. The water shoots through a natural cement trough and then fans out in a wide cascade. The section of this creek, both upstream and downstream from the falls is one of the prettiest in the area.

This cascade is at the headwaters of the Trinity River, just below a gorgeous meadow. The entire creek is beautiful but this section, where the water races down a narrow chute is quite beautiful.

Immediately downstream from the previous cascade, this little cataract is another small but beautiful bit of falling water. This whole area is very unappreciated but quite beautiful.

Located on the north side of Mount Shasta, New Coquette Falls (sometimes called Bolam Creek Falls) is one of Mount Shasta’s four large waterfalls. Not unknown but not often seen, it is an awesome waterfall in an awesome setting.

Another view of New Coquette Falls, putting it into perspective with Mount Shasta behind. It is one of the best views of the mountain.

All in all, this was a fine collection of falling water, with more to come next year, Lord willing. It is humbling and exciting to consider how much beauty remains a mystery here in Mount Shasta. There is much to explore, much to return to and appreciate anew.

 

 

Seldom Seen: Lower Cascade Gulch

Posted by bubbasuess on April 26, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen. Leave a comment

In size and scope, Mount Shasta is nearly a mountain range unto itself. Like all mountain ranges, it has numerous nooks and crannies that are well off the beaten path. Considering how much of the mountain is unexplored by trails, this means that the preponderance of the mountain is not often appreciated by hikers. Those parts of Mount Shasta that are off the trail but do see people are along the routes that lead to the summit and are all at higher elevations. This still leaves a tremendous amount of the mountain’s geography left isolated, unappreciated and seldom seen.

One such significant part of the mountain landscape is Cascade Gulch. This prominent canyon is easily visible from the west side of Mount Shasta, as is indicated on the Mount Shasta Landmark Locator. It begins at the saddle between Mount Shasta and Shastina, and descends steeply down into Hidden Valley. From there the gulch continues to the west, dropping steeply once again out of Hidden Valley, passing inside the tree line and then leveling off as it heads west through the dense forest of Mount Shasta’s lower elevations. The two images below illustrate its path:

Cascade Gulch, as illustrated above, comprises the upper and middle sections, both above and below the treeline. These are each worth a Seldom Seen post on their own. However, there is a third and lower section that also deserves to be noted. Surrounded by vast expanses of brush and located deep in the untraveled forest on the lower flank of the mountain, it would seem to be the least interesting part of Cascade Gulch. The reality is different however and the lower section exposes some of the most interesting geology found at the lower elevations on Mount Shasta. In particular, a side canyon connected to Cascade Gulch, which I have dubbed “Upheaval Canyon”, has fascinating rock formations and awesome views of the Strawberry Valley, Black Butte and the Trinity Divide. For the few who find their way into this seemingly lost area solitude and fascinating geology wait to be discovered.

Upheaval: layers of stone bent violently upward.

While the goal is worthy, exploring Cascade Gulch can, at times, be a frustrating proposition. The lower elevation means that it is choked with brush. Fortunately, one of the prime attractions of Lower Cascade Gulch is located just above the vast brushfields that blanket much of the area. The location of interest is a spur that branches off of the main stem of Cascade Gulch. Though it may have other unofficial names, I am not aware of them and have dubbed this spur “Upheaval Canyon”. The reason for the appellation is the found in the complex geology that shaped this unusual canyon. The rock is composed of a seemingly innumerable series of thin layers. One spot in particular exhibits the earth’s great upheaval, with the numerous strata bent upward, nearly stretching 180 degrees over on itself. It is a dramatic sight.

Views west from the rocky rim.

The rugged terrain of the canyon is broken into two adjacent segments. The end of each of these segments is marked by small pouroffs. Here, when the water from melting snow flows in early spring, the runoff flows off of a final, rocky lip into the sandy bed of the canyon, often disappearing swiftly into the porous land. In between these two sections the rim of the canyon is lined with large boulders and rocky outcroppings. Climbing up onto the rim yields excellent panoramic views of the Strawberry Valley, Black Butte, and the Trinity Divide, crowned by the massive bulk of Mount Eddy. There is a surprising amount of exposure on the rim, with the canyon nearly 100 feet below. Between the views and the geology, this portion of the lower Cascade Gulch area is a fantastic springtime destination.

Looking up Cascade Gulch to Mount Shasta.

Aside from Upheaval Canyon, much of Lower Cascade Gulch is choked with brush. However, it is not difficult to navigate a route along the rocky bed of the gulch. Good views of both Mount Eddy and Mount Shasta are often enjoyed along this route. Rock outcroppings also dot the landscape, adding a significant amount of interest along the lowest segment of the gulch. In spring, the profusion of brush does have the benefit of making the air exceptional fragrant. While the smells of the forests are fixtures of trails higher up on the mountain, this is a peculiar sensory experience for hiking on Mount Shasta.

Lower Cascade Gulch is testimony to the hidden beauty found all around Mount Shasta. It may not be overwhelmingly beautiful or spectacular like many of the mountain’s grand destinations. Nonetheless, it is a worthy area to explore, boasting intriguing geology, scenic views and a sense of deep isolation. The fact that these can all be found so close to town and still be seldom seen is amazing.

Lower Cascade Gulch Gallery (click to enlarge):

 

The Castle Creek Watershed: A Premier Outdoor Destination (Or At Least It Could Be)

Posted by bubbasuess on February 17, 2018
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen. 3 Comments

A seldom seen vista of Mount Shasta, the Castle Creek drainage and the Castle Crags.

I started this post off this morning with the intention of highlighting the three Seldom Seen articles I have written that covered areas around the Castle Crags. As I wrote, a spark of an idea kept tugging at the corner of my mind until, after considering it for a little while, I scrapped my post and decided to shift the emphasis. The three areas I have written about already are the Grey Rocks, Castle Creek and the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento River. These are all located in the Castle Creek watershed, which is located on the south side of the Castle Crags. As the nature of the Seldom Seen posts suggests, these areas are not heavily trafficked. This is also the case with the entire Castle Creek watershed taken as a whole. The lone exception to this is the lower flanks of the Castle Crags themselves, where Castle Crags State Park and the Pacific Crest Trail attract visitors. Beyond these pockets of activity, the entire watershed is left abandoned, with only rock climbers, motivated history buffs and some dedicated explorers and peak baggers enjoying what the area has to offer.

The Grey Rocks loom high above Castle Creek.

Yet the Castle Creek watershed is easily one of the most spectacular destinations in Northern California. Almost everything nature lovers could want is found here: soaring granite cliffs and needle-like spires, a large, powerful creek, numerous waterfalls, isolated mountain peaks, expansive vistas, crystalline alpine lakes, lush meadows, deep forests and fascinating historical sites. More than that, the area is arranged in a compact, easy-to-access valley with a paved road climbing to the higher elevations. In short, this could be an incredible recreation resource, if the conditions aligned to make it thus.

The range of activities in the Castle Creek watershed are immense. Rock climbing and hiking are the obvious premier activities, but there is potential for kayaking, sightseeing and exploring as well. It is amazing how undeveloped this area actually is. Few trails have pushed out beyond the wooded slopes of the Castle Crags. The Grey Rocks, Flume Creek Ridge, the upper areas of the Crags as well as Castle Creek itself all remain untapped, spectacular destinations, unvisited by maintained trails. The road that travels through the watershed offers opportunities for a variety of trailheads and for hikes for people unable to explore cross country or take longer and harder hikes, which is what most of the trails in this area currently consist of. Note this map of the watershed:

Red = watershed boundary, Blue = Castle Creek, Yellow = Pacific Crest Trail

Orange = other trails in watershed

An utterly isolated basin in the Castle Creek watershed.

Though the watershed is easily the largest tributary of this upper section of the Sacramento River and it boasts many superlative landmarks, there are relatively few trails capitalizing on the beauty of the area. Naturally the Castle Crags are going to attract attention, but even there the paucity of trails is surprising and disappointing. There is an amazing number of trails waiting to be built, all of which lead to gorgeous destinations. The Grey Rocks are completely untapped, Flume Creek Ridge has incredible views, the waterfalls on the South Fork of Castle Creek are very hard to reach, the main stem of Castle Creek itself is trailless, the historic Ruby Pearl Mine is all but abandoned and many great perches at the base of the Castle Crags cliffs’ are left only to climbers. Even more destinations besides these await to be enjoyed.

Castle Crags from the PCT.

Despite the terrific natural beauty, if the Castle Creek watershed were to ever be developed as a recreation destination, significant barriers would need to be overcome. The most significant is the patchwork of landownership that has broken up the watershed. Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Castle Crags State Park and numerous private land owners all own substantial portions of the Castle Creek area. This results in fragmentation of land management philosophies, public access and an overall vision for the resource. If all the land was brought under one administration or a cooperative management plan was developed between stakeholders, it would be possible to see more preservation and recreation development take place. Personally, I would love to see the state park handed over to the Forest Service and a Castle Crags Recreation Area developed. That way silly incidents like the Rush Creek ADA status might have been avoided.

Naturally, there are those who are quite happy with the undeveloped state of the Castle Creek watershed and would oppose any such changes as have been mentioned here. I confess that a part of me concurs. Nonetheless, I think that, in general, more access and more trails is always a good thing. Creating opportunities for people to enjoy the amazing scenery and the sublime land that we are blessed with will encourage them to work to preserve it and other areas. If developed, a premier destination like the Castle Creek watershed would only help the local economy as well. It would serve as a fantastic southern counterweight to the Gateway expansion. It is unlikely that anything at all will change in the Castle Creek watershed, but for those motivated to get out and explore, one of the most spectacular landscapes in Northern California awaits. It stands alongside Mount Shasta itself and the many other stunning regions in the most stunning state.

Some perspectives of the Castle Creek watershed (click to enlarge):

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seldom Seen: Castle Creek

Posted by bubbasuess on April 29, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Seldom Seen, Trinity Divide, Water. Tagged: . 5 Comments

The snowy crags of the Grey Rocks gaze down on lively Castle Creek.

Running swiftly through a wide valley flanked by magnificently rugged mountain towers, Castle Creek is easily one of the most scenic waterways in the Mount Shasta area. After the first rank of the area’s three rivers, it is quite possible that Castle Creek is the most scenic creek in the area. Beginning in three basins high in the southern Trinity Divide, the three forks flow steeply down rarely visited mountain canyons until they join together in the valley that lies beneath the watchful gaze of the mighty Castle Crags and the mysterious Grey Rocks (also seldom seen!). With a large and powerful flow and its beautiful valley, Castle Creek is a beautiful mountain gem that is seldom seen but waiting to be discovered.

It might seem unusual that such a prominent landmark and one that passes so close to civilization would be considered “seldom seen”. In the case of Castle Creek, this certainly seems to be the case. Despite its proximity to the interstate and Castle Crags State Park, the creek remains a fairly unappreciated landmark in the Mount Shasta area. Aside from a fleeting and unheralded crossing on I-5, most people come into contact with Castle Creek while driving on Forest Road 25, which passes along the base of the Castle Crags. The creek is visible from a few places along the road but is hardly a feature of the drive. It is simply passed by on the way somewhere else.  The state of anonymity experienced by Castle Creek is most likely due to the fact that there are no trails along its course. To experience the creek, one has to be prepared for some bushwhacking and a lot of scrambling on rocks.

Castle Creek Headwaters:

 

Castle Crags from the confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek

Castle Creek is the largest tributary of the Sacramento River between the river’s headwaters and its inundation at Shasta Lake. The headwaters of Castle Creek are also among the highest of the Sacramento’s feeder streams. Three forks of the creek flow down to combine into the large and fast-flowing main stem. The North Fork begins in a large basin at the head of the Castle Crags. There are no lakes in this steep-sloped bowl but there are a few springs and meadows that provide a sustaining flow later in the summer. The Middle Fork is the longest of Castle Creek’s three branches and begins in the beautiful Seven Lakes Basin. The South Fork, the most enigmatic of the three, rises in a very seldom seen basin on the east side of the Grey Rocks. This basin includes Grey Rock Lake and a few smaller unnamed lakes. The confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento has already been addressed in this series but it is worth noting that it is a place of great beauty and easily one of the most picturesque spots in the Mount Shasta region.

The three forks tumble down their respective canyons in a steep and vigorous descent to the valley floor. The confluence of the three forks is in fairly rapid succession to the main stem of Castle Creek which is birthed fairly rapidly. Once all three forks combine, Castle Creek only flows for a little less than 3 miles before joining the Sacramento River but it is a remarkable and beautiful 3 miles. The creek is wide, with a rocky creekbed. Large granite boulders are strewn about, offering lots of visual interest and rock scrambling opportunities. In spring, when the water flow is high, the creek has a beautiful turquoise hue.

The Grey Rocks rise above Castle Creek Valley.

The most prominent landmark easily visible from the creek are the Grey Rocks, the tall, craggy turrets that are the dominant peaks of the southern Trinity Divide. The stunning Castle Crags are often frustratingly obscured from the creek, though the tops of the granite spires are still visible at times. The floor of the valley is rocky with patches of pine, cedar and oak occasionally broken up by small meadows. Several smaller creeks flow into Castle Creek, most of them originating in the Castle Crags. The most prominent of these are Indian, Dump, Sulphur and Burstarse. The latter two are notable for having excellent waterfalls or lovely cascades over granite slabs. The south side of Castle Creek’s valley is bounded by long Flume Creek Ridge. Not much water flows off of this forested wall, but in spring when it is covered in snow, it is a pretty sight.

Spring is the best time to visit Castle Creek. The tall, snow covered peaks, blue water and strong flow make it a gorgeous sight. This is especially tree for folks who, after a long winter, are eager to get back up into the mountains. The creek is not high but the setting and rugged mountains make it feel like it is much higher in elevation than it is. Indeed, despite having a paved coming alongside, when you are on the creekbank, it feels like you could be 50 miles from the nearest road, gazing at mountain stream in a deep wilderness.

One of the smaller waterfalls on Burstarse Creek.

If you do choose to explore Castle Creek, be prepared for a primitive experience. It is easy to get to, but access is almost entirely of the bushwhacking variety. However, there are a few trails nearby and some other recreational amenities. The Pacific Crest Trail traverses the flanks of the Castle Crags high above the creek. Views of the valley are possible from a few places on the trail. The PCT can also be used to reach the beautiful waterfalls on Burstarse Creek. The Flume Trail also travels within earshot of Castle Creek and also features an impressive overlook of Castle Creek’s valley. Castle Crags State Park also has a small walk-in campground not far from the creek. There are also several primitive campsites along the water at the west end of the valley.

A Castle Creek Gallery (click to enlarge):

Castle Creek Watershed:

A Mount Shasta “Seldom Seen” Round Up

Posted by bubbasuess on April 27, 2017
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Trinity Divide. 3 Comments

Mud Creek Canyon on the south side of Mount Shasta.

In all the writing I do, the subject that generates the most personal interest for me is writing on places that offer incredible scenery but are not known by many people. It has always amazed me at how many places fit into the category. They are often just as spectacular as popular destinations but just lack notoriety. This is true across the board, no matter how popular a place is, whether it is Yosemite or here in Mount Shasta. It was to cover these kinds of places that I started my “Seldom Seen” series shortly after the launch of Hike Mt Shasta. These articles highlight special places but don’t offer instructions on how to get there. For those motivated enough to want to see them for themselves, there are enough clues included that will allow a journey of discovery to take place.

Unfortunately, the work on my books has stymied the production of new Seldom Seen articles the last couple of years. My newest book is set for release in about a month and I don’t have a new project immediately on the docket which means that I will have the summer to get back to exploring the Mount Shasta area and writing more extensively on this area. I have a few different ideas in mind on what I want to focus on, but one of the chief endeavors will be adding 3 or 4 more Seldom Seen articles. With that in mind, I wanted to pull all of the previous articles together and highlight the special places I have written about already.

Areas On Mount Shasta:

The fact that there is a relative paucity of hiking trails on Mount Shasta, it is a source of continual surprise that there are some first-rate destinations on the mountain that have trails leading right to them in the form of old, decommissioned roads, yet they remain almost completely unknown. Other locations are a little harder to get to but are still reasonably accessible locations. In all cases they are absolutely beautiful and worthy of appreciation.

Ash Creek Falls

Mud Creek Canyon

Lower Mud Creek Canyon

Diller Canyon

Areas In The Cascade Range:

Aside from Mount Shasta, the rest of the Cascade Range in the area east of the mountain is something of a mystery. There are not many developed trails and practically no well known destinations. This is probably due to the fact that much of this area is a forgotten ranger district of the Klamath National Forest (the bulk of which lies to the west in the Klamath Mountains) and has been heavily impacted by timber companies. That does not mean that there are no worthy places, however. Indeed, some of the most beautiful terrain in the Mount Shasta area is found here and those hikers who explore this area will find that some particularly spectacular vistas and geology await.

Ash Creek Butte Fossil Rock Glacier

Hole In The Ground Geologic Area

Upper Klamath River Canyon

Areas In The Trinity Divide:

In some ways, the potential for seldom seen destinations is at its greatest in the Trinity Divide. The combination of a large area, complex geology and a patchwork of private and public lands has led to numerous, excellent sites dropping off the radar and avoiding appreciation by most hikers. Indeed, this area is full of spectacular features that are just begging to be appreciated. The Castle Crags offers a lifetime of exploration and discovery. The southern Trinity Divide has almost literally no trails yet features many lakes and mysterious, craggy peaks. The canyons of the Sacramento and the Eddy Range also feature magnificent scenery yet if it lies off the crest of the range it remains almost completely unappreciated. And that says nothing of the Scott Mountains just to the north…

The Grey Rocks

Upper Wagon Creek

Fawn Creek Canyon

Confluence Of The Sacramento River And Castle Creek

Castle Creek

A Seldom Seen Gallery (click to enlarge):

Seldom Seen: Ash Creek Butte Fossil Rock Glacier

Posted by bubbasuess on September 13, 2015
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen. Tagged: . 10 Comments
The Ash Creek Butte rock glacier

The Ash Creek Butte rock glacier

Ash Creek Butte is one of the most scenic and geologically fascinating mountains in the Mount Shasta area. It is tall, has a beautiful, rugged appearance, and boasts fantastic views. Like most of the California Cascades that lie east of Mount Shasta, Ash Creek Butte is draped in a cloak of anonymity that keeps it off the radar of most hikers. Nonetheless, the peak is one of the highlights of the block of mountains on the remote, eastern side of Mount Shasta. This area is definitely one of the more attractive portions of the California Cascades, complete with vast meadows, rushing mountain creeks, hidden lakes and old forests. While sharing many of these qualities, Ash Creek Butte boasts some unusual geology that sets it apart from the other mountains around it. The geologic centerpiece of Ash Creek Butte is the Ash Creek Butte rock glacier. Even though this formation lacks notoriety, it is unusual and scenic enough to have been designated the Ash Creek Butte Fossil Rock Glacier Geologic Area. Though seldom seen, it deserves far more attention than it gets.

The expanse of the rock glacier

The expanse of the rock glacier

Rock glaciers are unusual geologic phenomena. In many cases, they consist of actual glacier composed of ice but have been completely or partially overlain by a layer of rock debris. The lowest section of Mount Shasta’s giant Whitney Glacier is one example of this. However, the Whitney Glacier is not a rock glacier, since the preponderance of the ice is uncovered by rock and exposed. Most rock glaciers containing ice are completely covered with rock and the ice is not visible at all. The other kind of rock glaciers is actually the remnants of past glaciers. The ice has long since melted out but the rocky debris carved out of the mountain by the glacier remains. Amazingly, the ancient glacier’s flow pattern is usually visible in the rock pile. Streams of rock, lobes, layers and other evidence of movement are often visible, especially when viewed from above. Fossil rock glaciers also boast other features typical of live glaciers, including moraines and lakes. It is because of the evidence of motion, of the glacier’s “life” that these types of rock glaciers are sometimes referred to as fossil rock glaciers.

Mount Shasta towers above the Ash Creek Butte Rock Glacier.

Mount Shasta towers above the Ash Creek Butte Rock Glacier.

There are actually two large rock glaciers on Ash Creek Butte. One lies on the east side of the mountain while the main rock glacier is found in a large basin on the north side. The latter is preserved in the Klamath National Forest’s Ash Creek Butte Fossil Rock Glacier Geologic Area. It covers a surprisingly vast area, surrounded by tall, scree-covered craggy cliffs. Scrambling through the expansive talus is reminiscent of the journey through the infamous boulder field at Long’s Peak in Colorado. From afar, Ash Creek Butte seems like a volcanic peak similar to the many volcanos that surround it. Several nearby peaks like the Whaleback and Goosenest have craters on their summits. It is easy to mistake the rock glacier as evidence of a past, massive eruption since the cirque that contains it has the appearance of a crater. However, this is not the case. The “crater” was actually scoured out of the mountain by the ancient glacier, leaving the giant cup on the side of the mountain. Ash Creek Butte, alone among all the Cascade peaks in the Mount Shasta area save only the great mountain itself, has experienced glaciation. It is uncertain why it is alone in this regard, but perhaps its proximity to Mount Shasta and southerly distance from the mountain’s rainshadow created the conditions for the glaciers to form.

Looking down on the large hoodoo from the summit.

Looking at the large hoodoo from the summit.

It should be noted that saying the mountain lacks a crater is not saying that Ash Creek Butte is not volcanic. Evidence of past volcanism abounds. The most obvious indicator is the composition of the rock in the fossil rock glacier. Composed of gray and red andesite and dacite, it has a similar composition to Mount Shasta. Basalt and tephra, other types of volcanic rocks, are also present higher up on Ash Creek Butte. Even more interesting is the presence of a large hoodoo on a ridge below the summit. While there does not seem to be much history of eruptive activity (assuming the glacier did not carve it off the mountain) this hoodoo is evidence of past volcanism. Whether it was just a vent or was the main volcanic neck is uncertain. Nonetheless, it remains a reminder that fire shaped Ash Creek Butte, just as ice has.

Ash Creek Butte rises above Surprise Lake, part of the remains of an ancient glacier

Ash Creek Butte rises above Surprise Lake, part of the remains of an ancient glacier

Another interesting feature of the rock glacier is the presence of lakes. Ash Creek Butte claims two and it is surprising that they are not more popular destinations for hikers. In geologic terms, the most interesting is the tiny lake at the foot of the glacier. It is common to see lakes form at the point where glaciers terminate and though this lake is tiny, it is more evidence that ice once flowed like a river from the summit of Ash Creek Butte. Lacking a name, I have dubbed this small tarn Fossil Lake. Though it is small, it is unusually deep and makes a good place for a swim. The water is located right at the foot of the glacier and the rocky debris rises 50 or so feet high above the water. It is a lovely spot. The other body of water on Ash Creek Butte is beautiful Surprise Lake. Further down the basin from the glacier, it indicated how far the ice once extended. No trails lead to Surprise Lake but it is easy to get to. With sandy beaches, turquoise water and the rugged summit of Ash Creek Butte looming overhead, it is a wonderful place to relax and enjoy the deep isolation this area offers.

The Ash Creek Butte Fossil Rock Glacier Geologic Area is remote and off the radar, but it remains one of the Mount Shasta area’s more scenic and interesting features. It may be seldom seen, but it is worth the effort to explore it.

Click to enlarge:

Seldom Seen: Upper Wagon Creek

Posted by bubbasuess on May 24, 2015
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Waterfalls. Tagged: , , . 13 Comments
Wagon Creek flowing toward Mount Shasta.

Wagon Creek flowing toward Mount Shasta.

Many of the creeks and rivers around Mount Shasta are well known. The McCloud and Sacramento Rivers receive great renown and many of the creeks, like Mud Creek, Squaw Valley Creek and Castle Creek are lauded for their beauty. They are all wild, wonderful courses of water in beautiful mountain landscapes. However, one exceptional creek goes unappreciated. Wagon Creek is familiar to many, winding along Old Stage Road west of Mount Shasta City. It flows past houses and through forests before eventually being stilled at Lake Siskiyou. It has also given its name to the landmark Wagon Creek Bridge, which crosses over the eponymously named arm of Lake Siskiyou. While the bridge has raised the creek’s profile a little, it gives no indication of how marvelous and scenic the upper section of Wagon Creek is. Boasting beautiful waterfalls and powerful cascades surging through rocky chutes, the early sections of its journey are almost more vertical than horizontal, falling thousands of feet down the flanks of Mount Eddy in a tumult of whitewater. Yet, aside from brief glimpses of the cascades from far below, upper Wagon Creek remains seldom seen, appreciated by the few who make the trip to enjoy its delights.

A section of the surging Wagon Creek cascades.

A section of the Wagon Creek cascades.

Wagon Creek begins high on the slopes of Mount Eddy, in large basin often referred to as Eddy Bowl (fear not, Eddy Bowl will get just consideration in a future post!). Though Mount Eddy is not volcanic, the shape of the bowl can at times appear like a crater, remnants of some past eruption. While this is not the case, it is broad, with tall walls closing it in. The bowl is home to several small ponds and patches of meadow, all of which constitute the headwaters of Wagon Creek. The disparate streams emerging from the ponds and meadows are all collected at the base of the bowl, where Wagon Creek is born as a large waterway. It then enters a narrow gulch and begins its swift descent down the lower slopes of Mount Eddy. Losing over 2,000 feet in less than 2 miles, this section of its journey is an exciting and beautiful scene. Frothing water leaps and pours through the red, rocky chasm, plunging from one cascade to the next in seemingly endless sequence of cataracts. When the creek is swollen with snow melt from the spring thaw, this roiling strand of water is visible from far below at the bottom of the valley. The Abrams Lake Exit on I-5 has a particularly good view, though the white water seems all but in accessible from below. What remains hidden from view, however, are a pair of beautiful waterfalls.

Wagon Creek Falls

Wagon Creek Falls

Wagon Creek Falls is among the least known waterfalls in the Mount Shasta area. It is part of a special group of beautiful but utterly unappreciated waterfalls that includes some gems on Mount Shasta, a few specimens deep in the Castle Crags and a couple of surprising falls on the South Fork of Castle Creek among a few others. Under normal circumstances, each of these would be the destination of a popular trail, but now they are shrouded in anonymity and left to their own, wild devices. What is missed with Wagon Creek Falls is a plunge with classic waterfall lines. Pouring through a notch in a serpentine cliff, Wagon Creek Falls is a tall, rectangular cataract. Its lines are reminiscent of Vernal Falls in Yosemite, albeit much smaller. It is about 35-40 feet high and though not a world-beater when it comes to size, it remains a very beautiful falls nonetheless. As a bonus, there is another, shorter and less classic waterfall just upstream. I refer to it as Upper Wagon Creek Falls. The pair makes a great 1-2 punch for those who favor falling water.

Wagon Creek flows through Mills Meadow.

Wagon Creek flows through Mills Meadow.

When the Wagon Creek completes its tumble down Mount Eddy it is instantly quieted as it flows through sublime Mills Meadow, easily the prettiest meadow in the region, save those small patches that cling to the barren slopes of Mount Shasta. The meadow is broad and beautiful, ringed by forests of aspen, pine, fir, cedar and oak. In the fall, it has some of the best color around. The meadow retains an immense amount of water, acting like a massive sponge. For this reason, Wagon Creek’s flow is fairly substantial all year, regardless of how much rain or snow has fallen. The contrast from the raging cascades and waterfalls to the slow moving meander across Mills Meadow is as striking as it is beautiful. It gives Wagon Creek a varied personality, all of which worth beholding. Interestingly, the creek marks the northern limit of the Sacramento River watershed. The headwaters of the river proper are actually southwest of Wagon Creek.

Unfortunately, the upper section of Wagon Creek is difficult to reach. There is no doubt that this has, in part, contributed to its anonymity, and to the anonymity of Wagon Creek Falls. The cascades and the waterfalls can be approached from a couple of directions, both of which are long and in some cases, gruelingly steep journeys. The shorter (but steeper!) route is also beset by private land, which further restricts access. However, for those how make the trek, they are rewarded with one of the most wild and beautiful and powerful creeks in the region.

Click to enlarge:

Mount Shasta Seldom Seen Round Up 2015

Posted by bubbasuess on May 17, 2015
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen. Leave a comment

“Red Fir Falls” in Lower Mud Creek Canyon.

One of the great draws the mountains have on me is the constant opportunity to discover spectacular new places and amazing new sights. Obviously it would be foolish to be under the illusion that I was the first to ever see these things but the fact remains that there are many incredible spots that simply go unappreciated. Inevitably, whether in Mount Shasta or the great national parks, it is always the same admittedly great spots that wind up getting photographed, appearing on postcards and attracting visitors. While I readily confess my appreciation for these well-traveled spots, I find myself drawn back to those places that are overlooked or forgotten yet just as amazing as the well-known locales. It is for this reason that the ongoing series examining sites that are seldom seen remains my favorite subject to write about here on Hike Mt Shasta. I have been holding back on numerous posts on this site, waiting for the warm season to arrive, the high country to open up and the trails to be open. I wanted the posts to be salient to the season. This is also true of the Seldom Seen posts. Several should appear over the course of the summer. It is my hope that writing about these incredible places and posting some interesting images will inspire folks to get out and explore the awesome natural bounty we have here in Mount Shasta.

Before diving headlong into the summer season, I thought it might be interesting to briefly review the hidden places that have already appeared in the Seldom Seen series. Most of these are accessible now and it is certainly high time to get outside and start exploring!

Click the links to read more about each special place:

Ash Creek Falls

Cascades, Mt Shasta, Brewer Creek - July2012 099 (Custom)

Ash Creek Falls and Mount Shasta.

My favorite spot on Mount Shasta, Ash Creek Falls is a world-class waterfall that somehow manages to stay under the radar. It remains seldom seen despite not being entirely unknown. This is largely due to the fact that is accessed via Mount Shasta’s remotest trailhead and requires off-trail route finding across the wild flanks of the volcano. However, reaching a perch where the waterfall is visible is not particularly difficult and those who make the effort to get there are rewarded with an absolutely staggering vista. Glacier born Ash Creek races down a massive, wild canyon before reaching a band of hard rock and plunging over the cliffs. At nearly 350 feet it is an impressively tall waterfall that boasts a fairly substantial flow. It pours gracefully over the precipice and crashes and then crashes into the protruding cliff, exploding into a mighty shower before collecting again at the large pile of rocks at its base. Above all of this is mighty Mount Shasta, gazing down proudly at one of its most amazing features.

Mud Creek Canyon

Mount Shasta and Mud Creek Canyon.

Mount Shasta and Mud Creek Canyon.

Though not particularly well known, Mud Creek Canyon is one of Northern California’s most incredible landmarks. Perhaps it is overlooked because it is only part of Mount Shasta, but the fact remains that anywhere else, it would be a tremendous landmark. Cutting deeply into the side of Mount Shasta, the canyon, over 1,000 feet deep, begins near the volcano’s summit and extends nearly 7 miles to the south. Though the canyon is believed to be one of the oldest features on Mount Shasta, remnants of the primordial proto-Shasta, it is still in the process of taking shape. The canyon walls, composed of loose scree, are still seeking their angle of repose and the clatter of falling rock is consistently audible while standing on the canyon rim. The interior of the canyon is remote and nearly inaccessible. The few places where it is realistic to descend see little use, simply because few know they are there. Mud Creek, filled with glacial flour and the eroded detritus from the canyon crashes through bottom. The highlight of the scene is Mud Creek’s waterfalls. Scattered throughout the canyon, they range from wispy cataracts pouring over high cliffs just below the mountain’s summit to mighty plunges raging over cliffs deep in the chasm. The entire sight is staggering and easily one of the most magnificent features on Mount Shasta.

Lower Mud Creek Canyon

Lower Mud Creek Canyon

Lower Mud Creek Canyon

While the upper section of Mud Creek attracts a modicum of attention due to its proximity to the Clear Creek Trail, the lower part of the canyon is lost amidst the sea of deep forest that covers the lower flanks of Mount Shasta. This leaves the beautiful lower canyon to the highly motivated Mount Shasta enthusiest, who must ferret out the hows and whys of what makes this such an interesting destination. The truth is that it is surprising that a trail has never been developed here, since it is easy to reach, has loads of interesting geology and a beautiful waterfall on the largest creek to flow off of Mount Shasta. However, the answer as to why nothing has been developed here may have been answered last summer, when a large glacial outburst from the Konwakiton Glacier blasted through the canyon with tons of mud and debris. It is uncertain what condition the lower canyon is in now, but it is no doubt that even in the destruction, nature’s beauty will prevail and reward the intrepid few who venture here.

Diller Canyon

Cascades, Mt Shasta, Diller Canyon - March2014 034 (Custom)

Diller Canyon.

Although Diller Canyon is one of the most visible features on Mount Shasta, it is also one of the least visited. This is a bit surprising considering its easy access from Mount Shasta City and its incredible beauty. Easily visible from I-5, it is a ubiquitous sight from the foot of the mountain but is rarely appreciated from within. The canyon is located on Shastina, Mount Shasta’s mammoth secondary cone. It begins just below the summit of Shastina and is the only outlet of the crater. It is impressively wide at the top but narrows considerably as it descends the side of the mountain. An old road pushes into the canyon’s midsection and provides easy access to the interior. Though it is seldom seen, the sight of the massive canyon rising high on the mountain to the crown of rugged spires that ring the top of Shastina is a vision not easily forgotten.

The Grey Rocks

The Grey Rocks and Cerulean Lake.

The Grey Rocks and Cerulean Lake.

There is something mysterious about the Trinity Divide’s Grey Rocks. Almost no literature mentions them, there are no trails in them and there are not many easily accessible vantage points. Most who do set eyes on the Grey Rocks do so briefly from southbound I-5 as it drops into Castella or from the Everitt Memorial Highway, near Bunny Flat. These views reveal towering gray peaks cutting away at the sky. It is easier to observe them from trails in the Trinity Divide, where the Grey Rocks are a frequent and ominous presence. Their dark bulk is imposing even from a distance. Sadly few ever venture into the heart of the Grey Rocks and what is missed is a tremendous landscape filled with massive cliffs, meadows and crystalline lakes. It is a mountain paradise that rarely sees intrusion from the outside world.

Confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek

Trinity Divide, Castle Crags - April2012 023 copy (Custom)

Confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento River.

There are few things in Northern California as awesome and majestic as the Castle Crags. If not for the presence of Mount Shasta, the Crags would no doubt be a much, much larger attraction than they are. One cannot drive on I-5 and not be filled with wonder at the enormous, chaotic jumble of granite spires rising above the forest. Yet, for all of their splendor, it is often hard to appreciate the Castle Crags. Few trails penetrate the granite wonderland and, short of climbing some of the high peaks of the Trinity Divide, there are few really good vantages that really highlight how excellent this formation is. One of the best places to appreciate them is from the confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek. This spot is pretty much off of the radar and very, very underappreciated. It is an epic sight. As large Castle Creeks joins the Sacramento River, it cascades down a wide, rocky embankment about 7 or 8 feet high. This noisy cataract is caught between the cacophony of the large creek and the river. The drama of the two waters joining is presided over by the transcendent Crags, looming high overhead.

Fawn Creek Canyon

Fawn Creek Canyon from the PCT.

Fawn Creek Canyon from the PCT.

Lacking trails, but accessed by an old, rough road, Fawn Creek Canyon is one of the beautiful, out-of-the-way corners of the Trinity Divide that makes exploring this mountain range such a joy. Most of the folks who enjoy this canyon do so from above, looking down on the canyon from vista points just off of the Pacific Crest Trail. From above, the canyon appears to be a classic u-shaped valley with a heavy compliment of tree cover. What is missed are the trio of verdant meadows that give rise to Fawn Creek, the largest tributary to the South Fork of the Sacramento River. In summer, these meadows can be wildflower riots. They are also all but abandoned by everyone save a few locals who know this canyons virtues. Relatively easy access means this area can be enjoyed quickly from town but the lack of notoriety has kept it seldom seen.

Upper Klamath River Canyon

Klamath River - Oct2013 019 copy (Custom)

Upper Klamath River Canyon.

Though not as famous as many of its peers, the Klamath River is one of the great rivers of the American West. With its headwaters deep in central Oregon, it winds 263 miles to the California coast through deep canyons, high desert and dark forests. Along the way, the river cuts through the width of the Cascade Range, one of only three rivers to accomplish this feat (most famously done by the Columbia River at the Columbia River Gorge). The Upper Klamath River Canyon marks the river’s passage through the heart of the Cascades and despite the spectacular canyon and the momentous nature of its journey, this section of the Klamath River is virtually unknown outside of the immediate (and incredibly small) Copco area. Yet the river has carved an impressive canyon through the mountains and it fantastically scenic. The best time to visit is during autumn, when the fall colors are on display and the canyon becomes an amazing natural kaleidoscope.

Hole In The Ground Geologic Area

Cascades, Hole-In-The-Ground (3)

Hole In The Ground.

Hidden in the deep forests of the Cascades crest, the Hole In The Ground is a lost wonder that stands out as one of the most fascinating and scenic volcanic features in the Mount Shasta area. The reason for its anonymity is largely due to the fact that there is almost no development of recreational resources along the Cascade crest. Aside from two modest trails and some remote campgrounds, there are no developed destinations to attract people here. Yet this part of the Cascades is not without its sights and Hole In The Ground is an excellent example of the area’s potential. Where much of the Cascades in this area is blanketed in thick forest, the Hole In The Ground erupts from the forest dramatically. Remnants of a powerful volcanic blast, the area seems to be an old crater with a classic volcanic moonscape. Jagged rock and badlands are now found where pines and firs once stood. In the center is a tall volcanic neck, evidence that lava once flowed here. Though no trails exist here it is not difficult to find and easy to explore. Those who do venture here are sure to appreciate its stark beauty.

Seldom Seen: Fawn Creek Canyon

Posted by bubbasuess on July 5, 2014
Posted in: Hiking, Meadows, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Trinity Divide. 7 Comments
Trinity Divide, Fawn Creek Canyon - June2014 075 (Custom)

Fawn Creek Canyon from the canyon headwall.

One of the many interesting geographic features of the Mount Shasta area is the headwaters of the Sacramento River. The largest and longest river in California, the Sacramento is a dominant presence throughout much of Northern California. The river meanders through the Sacramento Valley, passing through cities and towns, irrigating vast farmlands and providing recreation and habitat for people and wildlife. While the Sacramento River far from obscure, it is generally overlooked that the Mount Shasta area is where the river’s headwaters are located. Beginning high up in the Trinity Divide, the river is divided into the three forks, each claiming a somewhat different character. The North Fork is the most remote and begins in an extensive complex of meadows. The spongy soil holds water like a sponge and slowly releases the liquid, giving rise to the river. The Middle Fork also has a few small meadows but is also sourced from a small group of lakes at the head of its canyon. The South Fork is much greater in scale. The river claims 10 named lakes near its source scattered through three lake basins as well as the large lakeless Soapstone Basin as its headwaters. The three lake basins see their share of hikers, though by many standards they are lightly used. Soapstone Basin, though nearly forgotten by most, does have a maintained trail leading through it that connects to the nearby Pacific Crest Trail. However, there is another part of the South Fork’s headwaters that goes completely under the radar. Fawn Creek Canyon is almost completely overlooked and is utterly anonymous to all but a few devotees of the Trinity Divide.

Trinity Divide, Fawn Creek Canyon - June2014 052 (Custom)

The upper meadow in Fawn Creek Canyon.

Located just north of the South Fork of the Sacramento River, Fawn Creek Canyon is a lonely mountain valley. Sandwiched between White Ridge to the North and Bear Ridge to the south, the canyon is blanketed in an excellent forest of lodgepole pine. Neither ridge is exceptionally rugged but they do claim some craggy protrusions breaking through the forest. The lowest part of the canyon is narrow and rugged as it approaches the South Fork. Fawn Creek tumbles down a series of small cataracts as it speeds through this section. The upper portion of the canyon takes on a much different appearance. Exhibiting the classic u-shaped form of valleys that have experienced the passage of large glaciers, it is easy to imagine a large sheet of ice gouging at rocky protrusion and leaving a uniform landscape in its wake. Although there are no lakes in Fawn Creek Canyon (often the remnants of glaciers) there is still a large complex of meadows in the upper section. The meadow is broken up into three sections. The lowest of the three is the least extensive and is intruded by numerous trees. The middle meadow is very attractive and has some nice views of rocky points along the rim of Bear Ridge. The upper meadow is by far the nicest. It is incredibly lush and it is possible to observe Fawn Creek developing as small spring-fed streams combine and begin the journey down to the South Fork. The upper meadow is hemmed in by the headwall of Fawn Creek Canyon, which, while not particularly craggy, is still a scenic sight from the lush grasses. Add to this mix some great wildflower displays in the meadows and Fawn Creek Canyon can be an idyllic mountain hiding place.

Trinity Divide, Fawn Creek Canyon - June2014 026 (Custom)

The middle meadow area.

Access to Fawn Creek Canyon is not difficult. A road climbs up from the South Fork and passes the lower two meadow areas before stopping short of the final, upper meadow. The obscurity of the canyon is protected in large measure by the obscurity of the road and the numerous other attractions in the South Fork area. The road finally ends near the middle meadow at a large turnaround. The road actually continues beyond the turnaround but it has been condemned and quickly decays to an unpassable state. Nonetheless, the old road makes a convenient trail to hike up to the upper meadow. Though the road crosses a few wet spring areas, it stays a fair distance away from Fawn Creek. Nonetheless, the road and creek do approach each other as the meadow approaches and after a short cross-country jaunt, the meadow unfolds beautifully at the head of the canyon. Few people make it up this far into Fawn Creek Canyon and it makes a wonderful place to pitch a tent and enjoy a remote, wild and serene meadow.

If there is any drawback to Fawn Creek Canyon, it is the lack of great views. There are no great views of Mount Shasta or Mount Eddy. The best way to get a sense of the canyon is to climb up to the top of the headwall where the PCT traverses the west end of the canyon. From there both White Ridge and Bear Ridge extend eastward and Mount Shasta looms majestically above everything. This view can also be accessed via the PCT from the Gumboot trailhead. From there, hikers can drop down into the canyon and enjoy the upper meadow before climbing back out of the canyon and returning to the trailhead.

Fawn Creek Canyon Gallery

As always, if anyone is curious about details in getting to these places, feel free to send me an email.