Castle Crags

Crags of Light And Crazy Clouds: A Few Days Around Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on February 10, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Lenticular Clouds, Mount Shasta. 3 Comments

A trio of “lenticulish” clouds surround Mount Shasta on a cold and beautiful morning.

The last few days have been busy for me and I wasn’t able to get out during the weekend as much as I wanted to. However, I was at times able to get out on the margins and still catch some sunrises, sunsets and do a little investigation in anticipation of one of my spring exploration projects. I submit these images humbly, stating upfront that there is no consistent theme to all of these images other than to show conditions around Mount Shasta over the last few days.


Firstly, I am quite pleased to find that the puddles in the Shasta Valley have finally returned! They were last present in the late winter and spring of 2019 but the weak winter a year later meant there were no puddles through 2020. Thankfully the hefty storm that sailed through in January of 2021 was sufficient to recharge the puddles and they seem to have some staying power for the time being. More precipitation will only serve to replenish the aquifer further and help them last deeper into the spring.


I have some significant explorations planned for this spring in the Little Castle Creek drainage. I have been doing some preliminary investigations to that end lately. On one early morning outing I was there in time for sunrise on the Castle Crags. This particular cliff it called Triple Top, and it towers 2,000 feet over Little Castle Creek. It still shocks me that such incredible features remain almost totally anonymous.

The crags mirror their distant cousins, the Sierra Nevada and reflect the light beautifully. John Muir said of the Sierra Nevada:

“Looking eastward from the summit of Pacheco Pass one shining morning, a landscape was displayed that after all my wanderings still appears as the most beautiful I have ever beheld. At my feet lay the Great Central Valley of California, level and flowery, like a lake of pure sunshine … And from the eastern boundary of this vast golden flower-bed rose the mighty Sierra, miles in height, and so gloriously colored and so radiant, it seemed not clothed with light but wholly composed of it, like the wall of some celestial city…. Then it seemed to me that the Sierra should be called, not the Nevada or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light. And after ten years of wandering and wondering in the heart of it, rejoicing in its glorious floods of light, the white beams of the morning streaming through the passes, the noonday radiance on the crystal rocks, the flush of the alpenglow, and the irised spray of countless waterfalls, it still seems above all others the Range of Light.”

It seems to me, given the granite composition of the Castle Crags and their similarity and distant familial connection to the Sierra, that they too may be called the Crags of Light. Or maybe I am being a little too dramatic. I don’t know.


Given Monday’s weather, Tuesday morning looked auspicious for some lenticulars and, as I had guessed, there were some over Mount Shasta. Mornings are always frustrating this time of year because positions with the best light are often harder to get to due to snow. With Castle Lake Road still being plowed, Lake Siskiyou seemed the best vantage from which to appreciate the clouds at dawn. Fortunately the lake was somewhat still and a reflection was possible. Not perfect, by any stretch but enough to allow the color in the sky to be appreciated in the gently rippling water. While the scene was not epic, it was quietly beautiful and a satisfying encounter with the mountain.

Looking closer to the sunrise on Tuesday morning.

It is interesting that Mount Shasta still looks a bit bare at this time. We have had a fair amount of snow over the past month, yet the mountain’s ridges are all exposed as if it had only been lightly inundated. I think this state reflects the fact that all the snow that fell was very dry powder. It has accumulated a good pack in some places but on the more exposed terrain, the wind whipped it off of the mountain very quickly.

Sunrise on Wednesday morning.

Wednesday morning brought another pretty sunrise. There were some vaguely “lenticulish” clouds around the mountain but by the time the sunlight brightened up the clouds, they had lost much of their definition. However, looking at the forecast for this evening, I am hopeful that something interesting may manifest.

As we are nearly a third of the way through February, I am eagerly anticipating March and the coming of spring. I have many places set to explore in the Castle Crags and that is the optimal time to get into those granite towers and explore the fountains and gardens that are hidden away in that jumble of spires. Until then, snowshoes and other winter sports (and some trips to Sonoma County and Prairie Creek Redwoods) will have to get me through the winter!

I really hope everyone is able to endure the rest of winter with warm hearts. The times we live in are deeply troubling but there is still much good in the world, great cause for hope, and spring draws nigh!

Three Spectacular Perspectives On Mount Shasta (And Some Other Pictures Too)

Posted by bubbasuess on November 6, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 2 Comments

A spectacular fall view of Mount Shasta.

The last two days I have made the time to head up to three elevated vistas of Mount Shasta at sunset, sunrise and then the following sunset. It has been a spectacular way to spend the last couple of days, which have been exceedingly beautiful autumn days. Once again, it is hard for me to express how sublime the mountain and the region are this time of year. The weather has been quite warm and though we certainly are at the point where precipitation is needed, I am enjoying the conditions we have been dealt.

Monday sunset:

Monday’s sunset was spent up on Gumboot Point, on the PCT. This view, high above the Gumboot Lakes and the South Fork of the Sacramento, is one of my favorites. With an epic view of Mount Shasta to the east and good perspectives on parts of the Trinity Alps, you can’t ask much more for this. Indeed, this vantage was a bit of two-for, since I was able to get a good view of the Trinities as the sun set.

Thankfully, my family was able to join me for this sunset too!

While the kids had their headlamps on, my wife and I really enjoyed the fading light as we hiked back to the car. The glow over the Trinity Alps set just the right tone as we hiked on the trail, the kids dancing in the light of their headlamps.

Tuesday sunrise:

The next morning I left early and headed up to the Whaleback to watch the sunrise. This might very well be the most spectacular sunrise vista in the Mount Shasta area. The view of the mountain is great, with the light-catching east side readily visible. This side of the mountain is also much whiter than the others. Not only are the mountain’s massive glaciers blanketing the upper flanks, but snow from a couple of weeks ago was still present at the lower elevations.

Another great feature of the view from the Whaleback is the ability to really make out a lot of the great detail on the Hotlum Glacier. In particular, crevasses and the large icefalls are easy to observe. In the end, however, the sum of the parts of the Whaleback view is greater than they are individually. It really is one of the most epic spots in the area.

Tuesday sunset: 

For Tuesday’s sunset, I headed up onto Girard Ridge, which has a particularly pleasing perspective on Mount Shasta. This view is also blessed with a lot of good fall color. While most of the trees around the base of the mountain have faded in the fall show, many of the trees above the Sacramento River are still clinging to their leaves, giving the forest bright spots of color. The addition of clouds to catch the evening light made this view even better!

Of course, if one is on Girard Ridge, then Mount Shasta is by no means the only spectacular sight. The view of the Castle Crags from the ridge is one of the few that can give Mount Shasta a real run for its money. This is a down right jaw-dropping perspective on one of the most magnificent landmarks in Northern California. I don’t think it is as iconic as it should be!

In the end, though, Mount Shasta always wins out. As the sun set and the light on the mountain went away, I was once again amazed at how diverse the mountain and the landscapes around are. It was grateful to have had the opportunity to enjoy all of these spots in such short span of time. I hope others have been able to get out in this great weather and enjoy the incredible creation we have all been blessed with!

Some Old Articles On Land Acquisitions Around Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on March 24, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta. Leave a comment

A winter view of the north side of the Castle Crags, lands newly accessible to the public. 

Last month I wrote an article detailing the significant land acquisitions in the Scott Mountains and the Trinity Divide. Click this link to read that account. After I wrote it I remembered two other articles I had written in the very early days in the blog that reported new lands in the Mount Shasta area that were acquired by the Forest Service. Some of the lands, located on Mount Eddy, were included in the report on the Scott Mountains due to their proximity. The other area, in the Castle Crags, got a little less fanfare, though it could also have a significant positive impact for hikers in the region. Since these articles were written 6 years ago, I thought I would be worthwhile to dredge them up and raise a little awareness of the potential that remains for more spectacular trails and exploration.

Sunset in a proposed Mount Eddy Wilderness.

The first article focused on lands on Mount Eddy. At the time, a pair of sections (a section is typically 1 square mile equaling 640 acres) were acquired and another pair, including one over-sized section were in negotiations. Adding land on Mount Eddy would have created a contiguous block of land where there had been a checkerboard pattern. In my imagination (and I confess to being a bit of a visionary…with poor execution skills to make my imagination become reality) I thought this would be be a fantastic opportunity to create a Mount Eddy Wilderness. Though this particular designation is unlikely to occur, the area is likely to be managed as such anyway. This means that recreation, particularly trail-based recreation will be the primary use, which is obviously a good thing for hikers.

Wagon Creek Falls

Though the wilderness area is unlikely, the reality surpassed my expectations in terms of lands acquired. In the initial deal that I reported on, 2 other critical sections were acquired on the east side of Mount Eddy. These are located in the gorgeous Eddy Bowl. Not only could these lands provide access to the frustratingly legally isolated Eddy Crater, Dobkins and Durney Lakes, but also to the Eddy Bowl itself. This large basin constitutes the headwaters of Wagon Creek, the first major tributary of the Sacramento River (this article offers good examples of Wagon Creek’s seldom seen beauty). A future trail exploring this incredible area is an exciting prospect!

The second article I wrote recounts and even more obscure land transaction that has not received a lot of fanfare. This acquisition is located down in the Castle Crags and brought to sections on the Crags’ north side under Forest Service administration. The transfer was only recently made official. These sections, formerly belonging to a timber company, include both the northern granite cliffs of the Castle Crags as well as nearly 2 miles of Little Castle Creek.

The yellow section are the new lands. The red area is the Castle Crags Wilderness. The blue areas are Castle Crags State Park. 

While these new sections are adjacent to the Castle Crags Wilderness, there inclusion in the protected area are unlikely, at least for the foreseeable future. Such designation requires and act of Congress, a process that takes a long time and effort. Perhaps that will happen in the future but in the meantime, the potential for recreation is terrific. A primary use of the land will be by rock climbers, who are naturally drawn to the towering granite cliffs of the Castle Crags. While there are already climbing routes to be found in that area, legal access and improved trails will undoubtedly bring more climbers to the Little Castle Creek side of the Crags.

Looking down on the saddle at the head of Little Castle Creek.

As far as trails, the most likely and desired addition will be a trail that ascends alongside Little Castle Creek. Discussions with members of the Forest Service indicate that a trail running parallel to the creek all the way up to the saddle at the west end of the Castle Crags is envisioned. This saddle, which lies at the headwaters of Little Castle Creek is traversed by the Pacific Crest Trail. A new trail leading down the creek would create new backpacking options and a the potential for a loop around the Castle Crags. The lands for such a loop already exist in the public domain and it would be relatively easy to connect a trail along Little Castle Creek to the Root Creek Falls Trail, thereby completely encircling the Castle Crags with trail. Whether looking for an easy creekside stroll or a demanding backpacking trip, it is hard not to be excited about the potential of the new lands here.

These two new areas bring a lot of potential for hikers. The fact remains that, despite the wealth of trails we have in the Mount Shasta area, there is still a tremendous amount of untapped potential. Even more amazing, if much of that potential is developed with trails, there would still be a great deal of gorgeous mountain terrain for those who prefer to explore lands where no trails go. As someone who loves both of these endeavors, I am excited about what the future holds for this region!

Mount Shasta, The Castle Crags And The 1838-42 United States Exploring Expedition

Posted by bubbasuess on January 21, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta. Tagged: . 2 Comments

Mount Shasta from the west. This was the unlikely perspective of the first known depiction of the mountain. 

In my last post on Castle Dome, I included an image of the first known representation of the Castle Crags. This sketch of Castle Dome and the Crags was one of the many contributions of the little known and largely forgotten United States Exploring Expedition. This expedition was easily the largest scientific effort made by the United States prior to the Civil War. The scope and achievement of this group of soldiers, sailors and scientists is astounding and it is remarkable that this grand adventure has lapsed into obscurity. The scientific discoveries and its effect on the antebellum geopolitical situation in North America were extremely influential. While there is much to recount about the expedition, the reason it is relevant to Hike Mt Shasta is its connection to Mount Shasta. It was on this journey that the first known depiction of Mount Shasta was made, introducing the mountain into the American psyche and establishing its reputation as one of the grandest mountains in the west.

The USEE flagship USS Vincennes in Antarctica.

Although the entirety of the United States Exploring Expedition’s is worth recounting, that is not the purpose of this post. However, some brief details are important for context. The USEE consisted of 7 ships. They were staffed by military personnel but were accompanied by a scientific corp of 9 individuals, each with a particular specialty. This group set out from Virginia in 1838 and proceeded to cross the Atlantic before recrossing back to the southwest and an traveling around South America. Once in the Pacific, they continued up the west coast of South America to Peru and then turned west. The ships crossed the Pacific and traveled south to Antarctica before arriving at Australia. From there they explored several islands of Micronesia before reaching Hawaii.

It is at this point that the USEE’s journey becomes relevant to Hike Mt Shasta. From Hawaii, the expedition continued to Washington, where they explored Puget Sound. They then traveled to the Columbia River. Here the group split up. The ships proceeded to San Francisco Bay while an overland party headed south through the Willamette Valley. This group, which included artist Alfred Agate and geologist James Dana eventually reached Mount Shasta. From there they followed the Sacramento River down to Sutter’s Fort and hence to San Francisco Bay, where they rejoined the main part of the expedition. Having completed this survey, the USEE headed west across the Pacific again en route to the Philippines. From there, they passed through the South China Sea, across the Indian and Atlantic Oceans and ending their journey in New York.

The remarkable route of the United States Exploring Expedition.

Obviously the relevant part of this story is the overland expedition’s encounter with Mount Shasta and the Castle Crags. This was the first sighting of both landmarks by a scientific body. It is fitting then, that the first images of both the Crags and Mount Shasta are a result of the groups passage beneath these mountains. It was in the journal of geologist James Dana that we see the Crags depicted and it is the work of artist Alfred Agate that yielded the first image of Mount Shasta. Though these were sketches of the these two excellent features and not photographs, it was an important first step in recording their existence and making peoples in the eastern United States aware of them.

As is often the case with older drawings and paintings, the peaks are interpreted by the artist and our modern eyes may not always see them the way the original artists perceive them. However, I have a knack for recognizing geographic features and I reckon this might be a good place to put that to use. Having already included the image of Castle Dome in a previous post, that seems like a good place to start.

The Castle Crags as drawn by James Dana, 1841.

In some ways, recognizing Castle Dome and the Castle Crags in the image is easy. The particular giveaway is the shape of Castle Dome. The peak appears quite differently depending on which angle one views it. However, it is obvious that Dana was looking at the dome and the rest of the peak from somewhere near Root Creek. It seems likely to me that it was near that creek’s confluence with the Sacramento River. The shape of the peak from that perspective in unmistakable.

Though somewhat exaggerated, the contours of the peak are readily identified. The pointed summit, the bulge on the right side and the crags on the left side all match the sketch by Dana.

The rest of the spires of the Castle Crags also match those drawn by Dana. Especially apparent is the tower of Mt. Hubris (aka the Ogre) on the left. Even Six-Toe Rock, the lower peaks on the far left, are represented in the sketch. However, it should be noted that the peaks to the right of Castle Dome are not in proportion to the rest of the peaks in the sketch. Despite this, the drawing by James Dana is a fascinating piece of the region’s history.

The Castle Crags aren’t the only fantastic geologic feature noticed by the USEE. Mount Shasta obviously drew their attention and it was inevitable that one of them would have drawn the awesome peak. Unfortunately, at first glance, the representation of Mount Shasta seems to leave something to be desired. It does not seem to be the most impressive depiction of this most singular and majestic mountain.

The first drawing of Mount Shasta by Alfred Agate, 1841.

The drawing, which has shockingly detailed foreground, depicts a mountain that appears tall but somewhat unimpressive. This is compounded by the drawings again, which has caused the peak to fade somewhat. Moreover, the perspective on the mountain does not, at first blush, appear to look like Mount Shasta. These attributes tend to leave the image, as a whole, a bit underwhelming.  Thankfully, the image was recreated as an engraving with the help of Agate. The engraving, which identified the mountain as “Shasty Peak”, made the features of the original drawing more discernible.

With the mountain darkened and more obvious, it is possible to identify landmarks. There are 4 peak-areas in the sketch and without a sense of depth and scale which the sketch seems to lack, they all seem to be roughly the same elevation. Once aligned with an image from a similar perspective, things become clearer though. The two peaks on the left are the rugged outcroppings and spires of Shastina. The V-shaped canyon between them is large Diller Canyon. The two peaks on the right are the summit of Mount Shasta and the formation known as the Misery Cone. There is some staggered proportions amongst these peaks and, though it is not readily apparent in the engraving, it fairly straight forward which part of Mount Shasta is which.

This perspective on Mount Shasta is viewed from just north of Black Butte, near south Weed. Though I like to photograph Mount Shasta from there, it is generally not one of the more common views of the mountain. However, it is the first perspective of Mount Shasta to be documented and because of that, it has some historical value, however minor. Interestingly enough, there is some city land in that area that holds this view. It would be neat if a vista point with some interpretive displays and some picnic tables could be installed recognizing the historical value of this perspective on Mount Shasta.

The next time you are driving along I-5 and passing the south Weed exit, be sure to look up at Mount Shasta and remember that this was the area where the United Stated Exploring Expedition stopped in 1841 and observed the mountain. It is beautiful from every perspective but historical value of this vantage makes it noteworthy!

 

 

 

Castle Dome: Steadfast And Staggering

Posted by bubbasuess on January 19, 2019
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide. 5 Comments

The awesome east face of Castle Dome catches the light of the rising sun.

After Mount Shasta, the Castle Crags are the most stunning feature in this part of California. The rugged collection of towering granite spires and domes is an awe-inspiring edifice looming majestically above the Sacramento River. Travelers coming up the Sacramento River Canyon on I-5 are treated to magnificent views of the Crags, seeing them close-up well before getting more than a peek at Mount Shasta. It is a grand introduction to the area and one that would be a premier attraction on its own, if a massive 14,000 foot volcano didn’t lie just to the north.

Though there are higher and more rugged peaks and spires withing the Castle Crags, only Castle Dome has earned itself and official name. It alone, of all the Castle Crags has the privilege of a distinct and universally agreed upon identity. Many other towers, walls and points withing the Crags have unofficial monikers, often bequeathed by climbers who scale the granite cliffs. These, however, are not widely known and not always widely accepted. Castle Dome, on the other hand, has long held its name and it is one that is known casually by locals, even by the non-climber and non-hiker. The reason for Castle Dome’s singular recognition is self-evident: it is spectacular tower that, though relatively short compared to the rest of the Crags, stands apart from the rest of the formation, has a distinct appearance and boasts an incredible wall on its east side. This is perhaps best enjoyed from the ought-to-be-iconic view at the base of Root Creek Falls, where the awesome waterfall plunges over a series of tiers while Castle Dome looms majestically overhead.

Castle Dome caught the attention of the first scientific expedition that passed through the Mount Shasta area in 1841. This sketch was drawn in 1841 by James Dana, the United State Exploring Expedition’s geologist. Castle Dome is the pyramidal peak above the tree in the center. It is a similar view to that to be had in the Root Creek Drainage.

Castle Dome, and the rest of the Castle Crags, are a large granite pluton that has been extruded from within the earth amidst a sea of rocks composed of marine sediment. Consequently, Castle Dome’s appearance stands in sharp contrast to the other peaks of the Trinity Divide, the large mountain range that rises west of Mount Shasta. The appearance and composition of these peaks is very similar to the highest parts of the nearby Trinity Alps as well as to much of the Sierra Nevada. Indeed, it is to these famed mountains that the Castle Crags draw their most favorable comparisons. The northern part of the Sierra and the Klamath Mountains, of which the Castle Crags are a part, or nearly identical geologically. Whether a climber, hiker or general lover of mountains, the similarities between the Crags and the Sierra Nevada is almost unavoidable. This is certainly the case with Castle Dome. The Sierra is known for its domes (among many other excellent attributes) and Castle Dome would fit right into that notable company. Its contours are reminiscent of famed Sierra domes like Fin Dome or the giant Tehipite Dome. Though not as large, Castle Dome’s lines are equally pleasing.

In this section of the Geologic Map Of California, the similarities between the Klamath Mountains (upper left) and the Northern Sierra Nevada (lower right) are easy to spot. The blue areas with the large pink regions are seen in both ranges. The blue is marine sediment while the pink areas are granite plutons.

It is worth noting that, other than Mount Shasta and its subordinate peaks like Shastina and Red Butte, Castle Dome is the only officially named peak in the area that is located in a wilderness area. It is often thought of as being inside Castle Crags State Park. This misconception is easy to understand since all the approached to the Dome pass through the state park. In truth, Castle Dome and the vast preponderance of the Castle Crags are a part of the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. Consequently, the Crags and many nearby peaks and lakes were made a part of the 12,232 acre Castle Crags Wilderness. This wilderness consists of 2.5 alpine lakes basins and the incredible jumble of granite towers that is the Castle Crags. Its elevation extends from 2,600 feet along Root Creek to 7,200 feet at the summit of Harry Watkins/Soapstone Peak.

Due in part to the peak’s lower elevation and its separation from the rest of the towers of the Castle Crags, Castle Dome is easily the most frequented tower in the Crags. The Castle Dome Trail is the only maintained trail that accesses the granite high country of the Castle Crags. A large open bench separates the dome from the rest of the Crags. This trail offers hikers access to the base of Castle Dome as well as rock climbing areas on the spires that lie immediately to the west, on the far side of the bench. The iconic view of Mount Shasta from the trail up to Castle Dome is one of the most memorable images of the region. Hikers aren’t alone in appreciation of this area. Castle Dome has an almost legendary status with rock climbers, offering a variety of climbing routes that include the classic 8 pitch Dike Route. For more information on the climbs around Castle Dome, check out Grover Shipman’s excellent Mt. Shasta Area Rock Climbing.

Castle Dome deserves a larger reputation that it currently does. This is in large measure a product of the fact that the dome is a small part of a greater, spectacular whole. The Castle Crags as a single entity will always be greater than any one of its domes or spires. Nonetheless, Castle Dome stands apart, both physically but also in many other ways. It alone of all the peaks in the Castle Crags can be appreciated by hikers as well as climbers. It can be viewed from many trails, both around the Crags but also from other peaks, especially Mount Shasta. Its beauty, accessibility and spectacular features make it one of the most noteworthy peaks in the Mount Shasta area.

A Castle Dome Gallery (click to enlarge):

PCT Spotlight – Burstarse Falls

Posted by bubbasuess on July 17, 2018
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Pacific Crest Trail, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls. 1 Comment

Burstarse Falls is a great destination on the PCT.

I was torn about which hike on the PCT to feature today. Naturally it had to be somewhere in the Castle Crags, but there are a few good choices. Considering that I have 5 days to feature trails before the Trail Town kick off and the first was dedicated to the section along the McCloud, I thought it was important to focus the next selection on the Castle Crags. There are a few good choices for this section but in the end, I selected the trip to Burstarse Falls.

Burstarse Creek cascades

The hike to the falls is a fantastic but relatively easy hike to a great waterfall. It also features some great views of the granite towers of the Castle Crags, which can be frustratingly hard to come by, consider their epic size and how much trail crosses them. The real delight of the hike, however, is Burstarse Creek. Naturally the falls is the culmination of this, but the creek itself is a highlight reel. Upon arriving at the creek, it tumbles down an attractive 10 foot waterfall before flowing across the trail and then pouring into a narrow granite gorge. Following the use trail upstream, hikers are presented with a chance to walk to the bottom of Lower Burstarse Falls, which is a pretty 25 foot plunge. Above this, the creek races through a series of granite chutes. These are very reminiscent of creeks in the Sierra Nevada. Burstarse Falls itself lies a little further up the creek. It shoot off a tall granite cliff before hammering the rocks below, where it explodes into numerous small cataracts. These recombine and continue the creek’s journey down to Castle Creek. It is a wonderful spectacle.

Castle Crags from the PCT.

The hike to Burstarse Falls is along the PCT’s long, gradual climb across the southern flank of the massive Crags. After leaving the McCloud River, the trail surmounts a small divide, and then drops down to Squaw Valley Creek. From there it makes a long ascent of Girard Ridge before descending along Falls Creek down to the Sacramento River. It crosses the river and immediately begins climbing up, out the canyon, gaining elevation along the southern flanks of the Castle Crags. These enormous spires are the most rugged terrain encountered by the PCT since the Bucks Lake Wilderness in the Sierra Nevada.

I was really tempted to focus this installment of the PCT Spotlight on the Soapstone Trail. This hike features a short section on the PCT and boasts one of the most spectacular views in the whole area. I ultimately chose the classic Burstarse Falls hike, but I would strong encourage everyone to explore the Soapstone Trail and check out the spectacular view of Mount Shasta and the Castle Crags!

This is quite a panorama, but these images are taken from the same spot. Click to enlarge:

 

A Mount Shasta Reader

Posted by bubbasuess on May 25, 2018
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Lakes, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Trinity Alps, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls. Leave a comment

Spring flowers highlight a fantastic view of Mount Shasta.

The Mount Shasta area is vast and varied. It is a delight to all those who love the natural world and yearn to enjoy it. However, exploring Mount Shasta and its environs can be a daunting task, especially to admirers who have not spent much time in the area or have not had the opportunity to dive into the literature that records many of the areas blessings. This reader is intended to pull together several articles and resources that have appeared on Hike Mt Shasta over the years and place them together in an easy-to-access setting. It is my hope that this will be a useful tool for deepening knowledge and appreciation of Mount Shasta, the surrounding mountains and all of Northern California!

Northern California Geography Orientation

California is probably the most geologically diverse state in America. This in part naturally flows from it’s size but there is also an immense amount of diverse geology packed within its borders. The North State, which is the uppermost part of California, maintains this pattern and presents a confusing array of rock types, numerous mountain ranges and a wide variety of geologic forces at work. This series, “Breaking Down The North State”, offers a good introduction on the geography, geology, and various regions that surround Mount Shasta.

  1. Introduction
  2. Seven Major Regions
  3. The California Cascades
  4. The Klamath Mountains Pt. I
  5. The Klamath Mountains Pt. II

Mount Shasta Landmark Locator

Mount Shasta nearly a mountain range unto itself. There are dozens of landmarks and features waiting to be identified, though there are few easy to use resources to help. The Mount Shasta Landmark Locator can be helpful in learning the mountain’s geography. The Locator has detailed guides to the 4 cardinal orientations of the mountain. This is particularly helpful considering how distinctly different Mount Shasta appears from these perspectives.

The impressive number of landmarks on Mount Shasta is indicative of the mountain’s complex geology. The fact is, Mount Shasta has experienced 4 distinct eruptive epochs, each adding a major quadrant to the volcano’s geography. This has heavily influenced Mount Shasta’s distinct appearance. Read more about these 4 eruption cones here. This article is an excellent companion to the Landmark Locator and helps explain many of the features identified there.

An article that puts Mount Shasta into the broader perspective of Cascade volcanoes does so by comparing the elevations of treeline on numerous mountains found in the range. This emphasizes Mount Shasta’s incredible size.

Neighboring Peaks

Mount Shasta may be the dominant peak in this corner of the country but there are other noteworthy summits that should not be overlooked. The two most obvious are Mount Eddy and Black Butte. The former is the highest point in the Klamath Mountains and the entire coastal ranges of the coterminous states. Dotted with lake basins and boasting spectacular views, it is a premier destination in its own right. The latter of the two peaks is the westernmost summit of the California Cascades. The distinct shape and prominent position make Black Butte an unmissable presence. The trail to the summit is a Mount Shasta area classic.

Other articles on summits around Mount Shasta are:

–The Five Tallest Peaks Around Mount Shasta

–Five Trails To Peaks Around Mount Shasta

Rivers Around The Mountain

Three rivers flow around the base of Mount Shasta. The Sacramento River, California’s largest and longest river, begins nearby, while the McCloud and Shasta Rivers also begin in the area. Flowing through deep canyons, over large waterfalls and through broad valleys, these rivers are beautiful contrasts to the towering spire of Mount Shasta. They also offer diverse recreational opportunities that include hiking, fishing and kayaking. In addition to the rivers, there are dozens of beautiful creeks flowing through the area. Wagon Creek and Castle Creek are probably the most notable but many others yield beautiful and refreshing destination. For those looking to explore, these are 5 of the best trails along rivers and creeks in the area.

See the Mount Shasta Area Rivers Gallery.

Seldom Seen

There are a variety of places around Mount Shasta that don’t see many visitors but still offer spectacular scenery and fascinating geology. The tiny number of people heading to these places is in not indicative of how magnificent they are. This series of articles attempts to pique the reader’s interest and encourage hikers to get out and explore areas beyond the trail.

History

The Mount Shasta vicinity has a long and interesting history. Native Americans lived in the area for millenia before the arrival of Americans. Resource utilization set in early but it was not long before Mount Shasta had gained the attention of many conservation luminaries. Most notable of these was John Muir himself, the father of the modern conservation movement. He had a long and important relationship with Mount Shasta, making several trips to the area. He strongly advocated the mountain be preserved as a national park:

“The Shasta region is still a fresh unspoiled wilderness, accessible and available for travelers of every kind and degree. Would it not be a fine thing to set it apart like the Yellowstone and Yosemite as a National Park for the welfare and benefit of all mankind, preserving its fountains and forests and all its glad life in primeval beauty?”
– John Muir, “Picturesque California”, 1888

Read more about John Muir’s thoughts about Mount Shasta here.

This article collects several other discussions of vintage Mount Shasta subjects.

Visiting Mount Shasta

Hiking is naturally a favorite way of appreciating Mount Shasta. Hundreds of miles of trail course across the mountain’s flanks and through the surrounding ranges. This map shows most of the trails on and around Mount Shasta:

Other articles that might be helpful:

–The Perfect Weekend: Three Days In Mount Shasta

–Three Spectacular Drive-To Vistas Of Mount Shasta

–An East Side Glacier View

–Sacramento River Scrambling

–Five Fantastic Mount Shasta Vistas

 

I hope this is a helpful resource to all those looking to enjoy Mount Shasta. Thanks for investing your time in Hike Mt Shasta!

The Castle Creek Watershed: A Premier Outdoor Destination (Or At Least It Could Be)

Posted by bubbasuess on February 17, 2018
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen. 3 Comments

A seldom seen vista of Mount Shasta, the Castle Creek drainage and the Castle Crags.

I started this post off this morning with the intention of highlighting the three Seldom Seen articles I have written that covered areas around the Castle Crags. As I wrote, a spark of an idea kept tugging at the corner of my mind until, after considering it for a little while, I scrapped my post and decided to shift the emphasis. The three areas I have written about already are the Grey Rocks, Castle Creek and the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento River. These are all located in the Castle Creek watershed, which is located on the south side of the Castle Crags. As the nature of the Seldom Seen posts suggests, these areas are not heavily trafficked. This is also the case with the entire Castle Creek watershed taken as a whole. The lone exception to this is the lower flanks of the Castle Crags themselves, where Castle Crags State Park and the Pacific Crest Trail attract visitors. Beyond these pockets of activity, the entire watershed is left abandoned, with only rock climbers, motivated history buffs and some dedicated explorers and peak baggers enjoying what the area has to offer.

The Grey Rocks loom high above Castle Creek.

Yet the Castle Creek watershed is easily one of the most spectacular destinations in Northern California. Almost everything nature lovers could want is found here: soaring granite cliffs and needle-like spires, a large, powerful creek, numerous waterfalls, isolated mountain peaks, expansive vistas, crystalline alpine lakes, lush meadows, deep forests and fascinating historical sites. More than that, the area is arranged in a compact, easy-to-access valley with a paved road climbing to the higher elevations. In short, this could be an incredible recreation resource, if the conditions aligned to make it thus.

The range of activities in the Castle Creek watershed are immense. Rock climbing and hiking are the obvious premier activities, but there is potential for kayaking, sightseeing and exploring as well. It is amazing how undeveloped this area actually is. Few trails have pushed out beyond the wooded slopes of the Castle Crags. The Grey Rocks, Flume Creek Ridge, the upper areas of the Crags as well as Castle Creek itself all remain untapped, spectacular destinations, unvisited by maintained trails. The road that travels through the watershed offers opportunities for a variety of trailheads and for hikes for people unable to explore cross country or take longer and harder hikes, which is what most of the trails in this area currently consist of. Note this map of the watershed:

Red = watershed boundary, Blue = Castle Creek, Yellow = Pacific Crest Trail

Orange = other trails in watershed

An utterly isolated basin in the Castle Creek watershed.

Though the watershed is easily the largest tributary of this upper section of the Sacramento River and it boasts many superlative landmarks, there are relatively few trails capitalizing on the beauty of the area. Naturally the Castle Crags are going to attract attention, but even there the paucity of trails is surprising and disappointing. There is an amazing number of trails waiting to be built, all of which lead to gorgeous destinations. The Grey Rocks are completely untapped, Flume Creek Ridge has incredible views, the waterfalls on the South Fork of Castle Creek are very hard to reach, the main stem of Castle Creek itself is trailless, the historic Ruby Pearl Mine is all but abandoned and many great perches at the base of the Castle Crags cliffs’ are left only to climbers. Even more destinations besides these await to be enjoyed.

Castle Crags from the PCT.

Despite the terrific natural beauty, if the Castle Creek watershed were to ever be developed as a recreation destination, significant barriers would need to be overcome. The most significant is the patchwork of landownership that has broken up the watershed. Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Castle Crags State Park and numerous private land owners all own substantial portions of the Castle Creek area. This results in fragmentation of land management philosophies, public access and an overall vision for the resource. If all the land was brought under one administration or a cooperative management plan was developed between stakeholders, it would be possible to see more preservation and recreation development take place. Personally, I would love to see the state park handed over to the Forest Service and a Castle Crags Recreation Area developed. That way silly incidents like the Rush Creek ADA status might have been avoided.

Naturally, there are those who are quite happy with the undeveloped state of the Castle Creek watershed and would oppose any such changes as have been mentioned here. I confess that a part of me concurs. Nonetheless, I think that, in general, more access and more trails is always a good thing. Creating opportunities for people to enjoy the amazing scenery and the sublime land that we are blessed with will encourage them to work to preserve it and other areas. If developed, a premier destination like the Castle Creek watershed would only help the local economy as well. It would serve as a fantastic southern counterweight to the Gateway expansion. It is unlikely that anything at all will change in the Castle Creek watershed, but for those motivated to get out and explore, one of the most spectacular landscapes in Northern California awaits. It stands alongside Mount Shasta itself and the many other stunning regions in the most stunning state.

Some perspectives of the Castle Creek watershed (click to enlarge):

 

 

 

 

 

 

Postcard View Of The Castle Crags?

Posted by bubbasuess on August 1, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Rivers. Tagged: . 5 Comments

The last few years my brother has been bringing his sons’ cross country team from Carmel up here to Mount Shasta in order to train at some higher elevations. My parents come up too and like to grandparent all the runners and make sure that everyone has a good time. Fortunately our guest cabin is large enough to accommodate 20-25 people fairly comfortably. When my parents showed up a couple of days ago in preparation for my brother’s crew’s arrival, my mom produced a little goodie she thought I might be interested in. Now, my mom is an avid thrift shopper (read: addiction) and every now and then she turns up some pretty amazing stuff. One of the more interesting was a 100 year old painting of Mount Shasta (see details here and here). One of her most recent acquisitions was a brand new, unused one of these.

So on this occasion, she handed me a postcard she thought I would be interested in. She was right. The scene on the card was easily recognizable as the Castle Crags and it was a perspective that, while seemingly familiar, was something I had not seen before:

It certainly is a spectacular shot and one that really highlights the rugged nature and massive bulk of the Crags. Set in late fall or winter, the Sacramento River flows around a bend while the Castle Crags loom magnificently in the background. A layer of snow covers the ground, though not the trees. Power lines that run parallel to the railroad tracks can be made out though they are not immediately obvious. Overall, it is a stunning scene, and one that seemingly ought to be more commonly photographed given how impressive it is.

The backside of the postcard notes the Castle Crags and their awesome presence above Highway 99. It further states that travelers on the highway often camp at the state park.

The fact that it refers to Highway 99 rather than Interstate 5 dates this card sometime prior to the mid-1950’s. The mention of Castle Crags State Park dates the card to sometime after 1933, when the park was established. If I had to guess, based on the aesthetics, I would put it somewhere between 1945-1955.

Naturally, with such an astounding view of the Crags, I wanted to locate the spot it was shot from. I figured with the direction of the river’s flow and the presence of the railroad tracks, it would not be too hard to determine where the picture was photographed. I hunted around on Google Earth a little bit before I realized that I had already been to this spot!

I had initially thought of this location when I first saw the card but I dismissed it as a possibility because of the arrangement of the railroad tracks in relation to the river. They are not visible in this shot, but they are set way back from the water, much further away than they appear on the postcard. Yet the Crags themselves were a dead ringer for what is seen in the card.

I snooped around on Google Earth a little more, looking at the Crags in relation to the orientation of the river. The perspective in the image I had taken of the Castle Crags was so similar to the one on the postcard I knew that if it was not the same spot, it had to at least be close. Nonetheless, there is nowhere else on the river that even comes close to having the same alignment between the Sacramento River and the Crags. It had to be the same spot. Yet the tracks in the postcard were nowhere near where the tracks are now.

I finally concluded that the tracks as they appear now are the result of a realignment and have been moved back, away from the river. My guess is that the old dirt road that follows the river now must be the old railroad bed. Walking that old road leads to the spot where I took my image. The perspective along the road would be very similar to what is on the postcard. Of course, the forest has grown up significantly sine the picture on the postcard was taken, but that is to be expected over the last 60-70 years.

To verify whether I was indeed correct in my assessment of where the postcard picture had  been taken, I tried superimposing the crags in my image over those that appear on the postcard. They were a nearly identical match! The river did not quite line up but that is not a surprise, since my image was taken at the water level while the one in the postcard is obviously taken from the top of the embankment, about 30 feet higher. Furthermore, I took mine during the spring thaw while the postcards is much later in the year when the water level is lower. Despite the slight shift in perspective and difference in volume, it is obvious that the river is rounding the same bend.

Click to enlarge the superimposed images:

I think it is quite conclusive. My image and the postcard were taken at nearly the same spot. The growth of the forest is quite remarkable, even though it is to be expected. Frankly, I prefer the areas appearance in the postcard rather than how it is today. At the very least, there is much less obstruction of the Crags themselves. Also, the lack of significant hardwoods makes the area more attractive, in my opinion. In spite of my preference, the spot remains one of the better views of the Castle Crags from down on the Sacramento River. Only that seen from the confluence with Castle Creek exceeds it.

So what is the takeaway from this exercise? First, it is that I am an unrepentant geography nerd. Second, and more important, there are a lot of great vistas out there that need to be rediscovered. This particular view of the Castle Crags deserves to be appreciated more than it is!

Update:

Reader Jeff Stone notified me that the trademark registration on the card would negate any date prior to 1952 and that the railroad was indeed realigned following the river’s flood of 1955. That would put the postcard’s date to somewhere between 1952 and 1955, which was right in my guess, based on the card’s design. He also linked me to another postcard that was taken in the same area. It must have been right around the same time, since all the trees are exactly the same!

Three Mountains And A River

Posted by bubbasuess on May 19, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Water. Tagged: . 3 Comments

Mount Eddy peeks through the trees at a vigorous stretch of the Sacramento River.

I have been writing a lot lately about the Sacramento River’s activity near the Lake Siskiyou inlet. In large measure this is a result of my fascination with the history of water in the western United States (if you haven’t read Cadillac Desert, you really should). The Sacramento River is one of the linchpins of the hydrologic infrastructure in California as well as the state’s largest and longest river. Yet it is often overlooked that this most critical piece in the Golden State’s puzzle begins here in the Mount Shasta area. Indeed, though many people enjoy Lake Siskiyou or fish the river, we often forget what a powerful and important presence the river is in this area. Strangely enough, despite its relatively short length, it is often the McCloud River, with its excellent waterfalls, that is often thought of as the river of the Mount Shasta area.

Though there are probably several reasons why the Sacramento River is not appreciated as it ought to be (almost no trails along it!), I think one of the most significant is the fact that the river is perpetually overshadowed by the large mountains that rise above it. The Castle Crags, Mount Eddy and Mount Shasta all command attention and respect and the Sacramento, lacking waterfalls and its box canyon damed up, does not boast many notable features (we really need a trail to Mossbrae Falls!) to attract people to it. It is thus ironic that the Sacramento River offers some of the best views of the three most notable mountains that rise above it. It is a remarkable showcase of the amazing topography that lies at the source of California’s most important river. This, perhaps, is the river’s iconic feature but it has managed to somehow go unnoticed. This needs to be rectified.

The Castle Crags can often be hard to view from afar but the Sacramento River has spectacular vistas of the granite spires.

Mount Eddy, on whose slopes the North Fork of the Sacramento is born, is often best viewed from the Sacramento River.

Mount Shasta can be viewed from almost anywhere but the kinetic fury of the Sacramento River adds a marvelous dimension to the massive mountain. 

It continues to amaze me that there is only one developed trail that runs parallel to the Sacramento River. As these images reveal, there are numerous magnificent views of the mountains around the river waiting to be explored, discovered and enjoyed. In my last post, I brought up the possibility of extending the Lake Siskiyou Trail upstream, following the river on both sides and then crossing it by means of a permanent bridge. This would open up some of the most scenic sections of the river to hikers. It would also facilitate more exploration and rock scrambling as people explored the numerous channels the river splits into once the three forks have all combined. There is a lot of memories and beauty waiting to be appreciated along that section of the Sacramento River.

Click to enlarge: