Mount Shasta History

Posts related to the history of Mount Shasta and the surrounding area.

A Mount Shasta Reader – 2019

Posted by bubbasuess on May 25, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Glaciers, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Peaks, Rivers, Trinity Divide. 3 Comments

Sunrise on Mount Shasta.

The Mount Shasta area is vast and varied. It is a delight to all those who love the natural world and yearn to enjoy it. However, exploring Mount Shasta and its environs can be a daunting task, especially to admirers who have not spent much time in the area or have not had the opportunity to dive into the literature that records many of the areas blessings. This reader is intended to pull together several articles and resources that have appeared on Hike Mt Shasta over the years and place them together in an easy-to-access setting. It is my hope that this will be a useful tool for deepening knowledge and appreciation of Mount Shasta, the surrounding mountains and all of Northern California!

Northern California Geography Orientation

California is probably the most geologically diverse state in America. This in part naturally flows from it’s size but there is also an immense amount of diverse geology packed within its borders. The North State, which is the uppermost part of California, maintains this pattern and presents a confusing array of rock types, numerous mountain ranges and a wide variety of geologic forces at work. This series, “Breaking Down The North State”, offers a good introduction on the geography, geology, and various regions that surround Mount Shasta.

  1. Introduction
  2. Seven Major Regions
  3. The California Cascades
  4. The Klamath Mountains Pt. I
  5. The Klamath Mountains Pt. II

Mount Shasta Landmark Locator

Mount Shasta nearly a mountain range unto itself. There are dozens of landmarks and features waiting to be identified, though there are few easy to use resources to help. The Mount Shasta Landmark Locator can be helpful in learning the mountain’s geography. The Locator has detailed guides to the 4 cardinal orientations of the mountain. This is particularly helpful considering how distinctly different Mount Shasta appears from these perspectives.

The impressive number of landmarks on Mount Shasta is indicative of the mountain’s complex geology. The fact is, Mount Shasta has experienced 4 distinct eruptive epochs, each adding a major quadrant to the volcano’s geography. This has heavily influenced Mount Shasta’s distinct appearance. Read more about these 4 eruption cones here. This article is an excellent companion to the Landmark Locator and helps explain many of the features identified there.

An article that puts Mount Shasta into the broader perspective of Cascade volcanoes does so by comparing the elevations of treeline on numerous mountains found in the range. This emphasizes Mount Shasta’s incredible size.

Another article examines the fossil remains of Mount Shasta’s medial moraine. The Hotlum Glacier once advanced several miles further than it does now, producing a medial moraine, the only one known to have existed in California.

Neighboring Peaks

Mount Shasta may be the dominant peak in this corner of the country but there are other noteworthy summits that should not be overlooked. The two most obvious are Mount Eddy and Black Butte. The former is the highest point in the Klamath Mountains and the entire coastal ranges of the coterminous states. Dotted with lake basins and boasting spectacular views, it is a premier destination in its own right. The latter of the two peaks is the westernmost summit of the California Cascades. The distinct shape and prominent position make Black Butte an unmissable presence. The trail to the summit is a Mount Shasta area classic.

Other articles on summits around Mount Shasta are:

–The Five Tallest Peaks Around Mount Shasta

–Five Trails To Peaks Around Mount Shasta

Rivers Around The Mountain

Three rivers flow around the base of Mount Shasta. The Sacramento River, California’s largest and longest river, begins nearby, while the McCloud and Shasta Rivers also begin in the area. Flowing through deep canyons, over large waterfalls and through broad valleys, these rivers are beautiful contrasts to the towering spire of Mount Shasta. They also offer diverse recreational opportunities that include hiking, fishing and kayaking. In addition to the rivers, there are dozens of beautiful creeks flowing through the area. Wagon Creek and Castle Creek are probably the most notable but many others yield beautiful and refreshing destination. For those looking to explore, these are 5 of the best trails along rivers and creeks in the area.

See the Mount Shasta Area Rivers Gallery.

Waterfalls

The Mount Shasta area has a number of fantastic waterfalls. This generally fit into two categories. The first are those that are found in the lowlands around Mount Shasta. Some of these are along the McCloud and Sacramento Rivers, a few others are in the mountains to the west of Mount Shasta. None are particularly high in elevation except Wagon Creek Falls. The river waterfalls flow all year so can be viewed whenever they are accessible. Those a little higher up are best in spring. The other category of waterfalls are those found on Mount Shasta. These are all harder to get to due to rugged access roads and terrain and, in some cases, lack of trails leading to them. Whitney Falls is the easiest to get to but its flow can be fickle. Ash Creek Falls may be the most beautiful of the bunch.

See the gallery of Mount Shasta Area Waterfalls.

Seldom Seen

There are a variety of places around Mount Shasta that don’t see many visitors but still offer spectacular scenery and fascinating geology. The tiny number of people heading to these places is in not indicative of how magnificent they are. This series of articles attempts to pique the reader’s interest and encourage hikers to get out and explore areas beyond the trail.

Fall Color

The Mount Shasta area is not well known for having great fall color. However the area does have some spots where the autumnal foliage can be pretty intense. This is due, in large measure to oak trees and the many trees that line riparian areas. Hiking along the Sacramento River, the McCloud River and Squaw Valley Creek are all places that are good bets to see some great collections of trees turning shades of red and gold. Aside from these areas, look for places with lots of oaks or willows to catch some of fall’s excellent spectacle. For those hungry for aspens, there are a few places to catch them, especially north of Mills Meadow and also a massive grove located near Tennant.

Click here for a sample of some of the area’s fall color.

History

The Mount Shasta vicinity has a long and interesting history. Native Americans lived in the area for millenia before the arrival of Americans. Resource utilization set in early but it was not long before Mount Shasta had gained the attention of many conservation luminaries. Most notable of these was John Muir himself, the father of the modern conservation movement. He had a long and important relationship with Mount Shasta, making several trips to the area. He strongly advocated the mountain be preserved as a national park:

“The Shasta region is still a fresh unspoiled wilderness, accessible and available for travelers of every kind and degree. Would it not be a fine thing to set it apart like the Yellowstone and Yosemite as a National Park for the welfare and benefit of all mankind, preserving its fountains and forests and all its glad life in primeval beauty?”
– John Muir, “Picturesque California”, 1888

Read more about John Muir’s thoughts about Mount Shasta here.

This article collects several other discussions of vintage Mount Shasta subjects.

Visiting Mount Shasta

Hiking is naturally a favorite way of appreciating Mount Shasta. Hundreds of miles of trail course across the mountain’s flanks and through the surrounding ranges. This map shows most of the trails on and around Mount Shasta:

Hiking Conditions

This past winter brought a much deeper snowpack than normal. Consequently, many of the trails that could be hiked this time of year are still buried in snow. While some higher elevations are starting to open up, especially around Castle Lake, for the most part, the spring trails are going to be the best bets for good conditions.

Read about those here.

Other articles that might be helpful:

–The Perfect Weekend: Three Days In Mount Shasta

–Three Spectacular Drive-To Vistas Of Mount Shasta

–An East Side Glacier View

–Sacramento River Scrambling

–Five Fantastic Mount Shasta Vistas

 

I hope this is a helpful resource to all those looking to enjoy Mount Shasta. Thanks for investing your time in Hike Mt Shasta!

 

Whitney – What’s In A Name?

Posted by bubbasuess on September 4, 2017
Posted in: Glaciers, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Sierra Nevada, Yosemite. Tagged: . 2 Comments

Sunset over Mount Whitney, highpoint of the coterminous United States.

One of the books I have really enjoyed reading this summer is Francis Farquhar’s “History of the Sierra Nevada“. In some ways it seems odd to write a history of a mountain range, given that the mountains are simply there and “do” nothing. What the book really focuses on is the history of the peoples that have interacted with these most-loved mountains. It begins with Native Americans, proceeds through the Spanish and eventually comes to Americans. This last is where the true history of the Sierra Nevada begins, since it was Americans that made the first forays into the high country of the Sierra, crossed them, explored them, harnessed them and then preserved them.

Whitney and Hoffman not pictured.

One of the many excellent chapters is on the California Geologic Survey, which thoroughly explored, mapped, named and documented a significant chunk of the Sierra Nevada. The Survey was created in 1860 and tasked with making an accurate scientific survey of the entire state of California. This they did, though the bulk of their time was spent in the Sierra Nevada, which was the largest unknown region in the state. The head of the survey was Josiah Whitney, who was a graduate of Yale and had participated in several surveys in the eastern U.S. before being named California’s first official state geologist. He assembled a team whose names are now familiar to Sierra Nevada aficionados. It included Richard Brewer, Charles Hoffman, Clarence King, James Gardiner and Richard Cotter. The team had many adventures as they explored and recorded vast swaths of the Golden State. Much of what they traveled was either unexplored or had only been barely visited and knowledge of these places was scant. For excellent reading, first-hand accounts of these adventures can be had in the fantastic books “Up and Down California In 1860-1864” by Brewer and “Mountaineering In The Sierra Nevada” by King.

This brings us to the relevance of Mount Shasta. The Survey visited Mount Shasta during the course of it’s work and an ascent was made. However, it was in 1870, when Clarence King returned to the mountain at the head of federal Fortieth Parallel Survey that he climbed Shasta as well as visited and identified the massive glacier that flows between Mount Shasta and Shastina. He named the glacier after his mentor Josiah Whitney. This was the first active glacier to be identified in the United States. Subsequent to this, other features on Mount Shasta, all related to the Whitney Glacier, came to bear the name of Josiah Whitney. This includes Whitney Creek and Whitney Falls.

Of course, the features on Mount Shasta are not the only prominent California landmarks to bear the name of Josiah Whitney. Even more impressive is the grand tower of Mount Whitney, highest point in the Sierra Nevada, California and the entirety of the lower 48 states of the United States. Climbing to a towering 14,505 feet, it is just 326 feet taller than Mount Shasta. The apogee of the Sierra Nevada came to bear the name of Whitney again through the agency of Clarence King, this time during his stint with the California Geologic Survey. During the summer of 1864, he and Richard Cotter were making a spectacular crossing of the High Sierra in the area of the Kings River. They eventually made the first ascent of 14,025 foot Mount Tyndall (another hero of King’s). From the summit they espied a couple of peaks higher yet. Of the higher of the two peaks King states:

“That which looked highest of all was a cleanly cut helmet of granite, lying six miles south. Mount Whitney, as we afterwards called it in honor of our chief, is probably the highest land within the United States. The summit looks glorious but inaccessible“.

Thus was the discovery of what was, indeed the highest point in the United States at that time. Denali and several other Alaskan peaks far exceed Mount Whitney in height but at the time that King discovered Whitney, those peaks were still a part of the Russian Empire. It was a momentous discovery and one that would eventually lead to thousands of hikers defying King’s assessment of its accessibility and persevering through the hard climb up to the summit in order to stand atop California and the lower 48’s highest point.

Awesome Mount Whitney aglow at sunrise

As I continue to read, I am frequently and pleasantly surprised by the connections that exist between Mount Shasta and the Sierra Nevada. I have written about some of the links that bind Mount Shasta to Yosemite in the past but the more I read, the more I see how they are interconnected. It may not be through geology, for the Cascade Range and the Sierra Nevada are quite distinct. Yet, in the hearts of people, these two monumental landmarks are connected in the similar esteem with which they are beheld. Many other connections exist, some immortalized by names like that of Brewer and other linked by the experiences that were had in both regions, like those of Norman Clyde. In the end, like in Farquhar’s book, it is not the mountains themselves that are connected, but through the interactions and admiration of the people who look awestruck upward toward their mighty heights.

Postcard View Of The Castle Crags?

Posted by bubbasuess on August 1, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Rivers. Tagged: . 5 Comments

The last few years my brother has been bringing his sons’ cross country team from Carmel up here to Mount Shasta in order to train at some higher elevations. My parents come up too and like to grandparent all the runners and make sure that everyone has a good time. Fortunately our guest cabin is large enough to accommodate 20-25 people fairly comfortably. When my parents showed up a couple of days ago in preparation for my brother’s crew’s arrival, my mom produced a little goodie she thought I might be interested in. Now, my mom is an avid thrift shopper (read: addiction) and every now and then she turns up some pretty amazing stuff. One of the more interesting was a 100 year old painting of Mount Shasta (see details here and here). One of her most recent acquisitions was a brand new, unused one of these.

So on this occasion, she handed me a postcard she thought I would be interested in. She was right. The scene on the card was easily recognizable as the Castle Crags and it was a perspective that, while seemingly familiar, was something I had not seen before:

It certainly is a spectacular shot and one that really highlights the rugged nature and massive bulk of the Crags. Set in late fall or winter, the Sacramento River flows around a bend while the Castle Crags loom magnificently in the background. A layer of snow covers the ground, though not the trees. Power lines that run parallel to the railroad tracks can be made out though they are not immediately obvious. Overall, it is a stunning scene, and one that seemingly ought to be more commonly photographed given how impressive it is.

The backside of the postcard notes the Castle Crags and their awesome presence above Highway 99. It further states that travelers on the highway often camp at the state park.

The fact that it refers to Highway 99 rather than Interstate 5 dates this card sometime prior to the mid-1950’s. The mention of Castle Crags State Park dates the card to sometime after 1933, when the park was established. If I had to guess, based on the aesthetics, I would put it somewhere between 1945-1955.

Naturally, with such an astounding view of the Crags, I wanted to locate the spot it was shot from. I figured with the direction of the river’s flow and the presence of the railroad tracks, it would not be too hard to determine where the picture was photographed. I hunted around on Google Earth a little bit before I realized that I had already been to this spot!

I had initially thought of this location when I first saw the card but I dismissed it as a possibility because of the arrangement of the railroad tracks in relation to the river. They are not visible in this shot, but they are set way back from the water, much further away than they appear on the postcard. Yet the Crags themselves were a dead ringer for what is seen in the card.

I snooped around on Google Earth a little more, looking at the Crags in relation to the orientation of the river. The perspective in the image I had taken of the Castle Crags was so similar to the one on the postcard I knew that if it was not the same spot, it had to at least be close. Nonetheless, there is nowhere else on the river that even comes close to having the same alignment between the Sacramento River and the Crags. It had to be the same spot. Yet the tracks in the postcard were nowhere near where the tracks are now.

I finally concluded that the tracks as they appear now are the result of a realignment and have been moved back, away from the river. My guess is that the old dirt road that follows the river now must be the old railroad bed. Walking that old road leads to the spot where I took my image. The perspective along the road would be very similar to what is on the postcard. Of course, the forest has grown up significantly sine the picture on the postcard was taken, but that is to be expected over the last 60-70 years.

To verify whether I was indeed correct in my assessment of where the postcard picture had  been taken, I tried superimposing the crags in my image over those that appear on the postcard. They were a nearly identical match! The river did not quite line up but that is not a surprise, since my image was taken at the water level while the one in the postcard is obviously taken from the top of the embankment, about 30 feet higher. Furthermore, I took mine during the spring thaw while the postcards is much later in the year when the water level is lower. Despite the slight shift in perspective and difference in volume, it is obvious that the river is rounding the same bend.

Click to enlarge the superimposed images:

I think it is quite conclusive. My image and the postcard were taken at nearly the same spot. The growth of the forest is quite remarkable, even though it is to be expected. Frankly, I prefer the areas appearance in the postcard rather than how it is today. At the very least, there is much less obstruction of the Crags themselves. Also, the lack of significant hardwoods makes the area more attractive, in my opinion. In spite of my preference, the spot remains one of the better views of the Castle Crags from down on the Sacramento River. Only that seen from the confluence with Castle Creek exceeds it.

So what is the takeaway from this exercise? First, it is that I am an unrepentant geography nerd. Second, and more important, there are a lot of great vistas out there that need to be rediscovered. This particular view of the Castle Crags deserves to be appreciated more than it is!

Update:

Reader Jeff Stone notified me that the trademark registration on the card would negate any date prior to 1952 and that the railroad was indeed realigned following the river’s flood of 1955. That would put the postcard’s date to somewhere between 1952 and 1955, which was right in my guess, based on the card’s design. He also linked me to another postcard that was taken in the same area. It must have been right around the same time, since all the trees are exactly the same!

Vintage Mount Shasta Posts Collection

Posted by bubbasuess on April 23, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History. 2 Comments

A small section of the 1935 topographic map.

A friend of mine recently gave me a large collection of vintage maps of Mount Shasta and Siskiyou County. While the terrain has not changed, the names and cartographic techniques certainly have. Of course, it is nearly a moral imperative that I put up some articles on these maps and examine how things have changed since the 1860’s (rough date of the first map). It will be a fascinating journey through how much the names, perceptions, and human imprint on the land has changed. However, this is not the post I begin that series. Instead, rummaging through all the vintage maps has gotten me thinking of some of the posts I have written about historic objects I have come across. I am captivated by these artifacts and think they provide some context for the time spent out of doors. Indeed, I believe that hiking in the wilds is as close as we can get to time travel since we can immerse ourselves in a place that is unchanged since people hundred or even a thousand years ago occupied the same place.

Most of the posts I have written on Mount Shasta history have focused on old art and images of the mountain. These can be captivating views into how older generations perceived the mountain and the surrounding landscape. It is my hope that by collecting these posts in one place that you will find them interesting and consider those who have gone before us when exploring the beauty of the Mount Shasta area. I’d encourage you to follow the links to get more detail on each image and piece of art.

In this post I examined a 19th century engraving of Mount Shasta by Thomas Moran. It depicts a spectacular view of Mount Shasta from Mud Creek Canyon. Though some of the features are very exaggerated in their proportions, it is still a fairly accurate portrayal of Mount Shasta and the canyon. It even features Mud Creek Falls, one of my personal favorite features on the mountain. In the post I included a breakdown of what each landmark is and how is corresponds to what can be seen from the Clear Creek Trail.

 The two posts (Part 1 and Part 2) that were done on this painting were the 2nd and 3rd posts I wrote when I first started Hike Mt Shasta. My mom found this painting in a thrift store down in Santa Rosa. The back has a label by a professional artist and this identified it as being Mount Shasta. Though it obviously bears no resemblance to the mountain at first glance, I still recognized the perspective depicted in the painting. Naturally I had to find out more about the painting and this necessitated a trip to the College of the Siskiyous library and working with some local Mount Shasta art aficionados to figure out how old the painting actually is.

In a more recent article, I linked to a collection of early 20th century photos produced as promotional material for the Southern Pacific Railroad. The images were colorized, which almost made them look like drawings or paintings. Nonetheless, they were an interesting look back at what the railroad pushed in terms of tourism for the area over 100 years ago.

The most recent article I have written on this subject was on an incredible collection of stereographic images of the Mount Shasta area. This was a very diverse group of pictures that preserved various perspectives on the mountain, long gone historic sites, and the towns around the mountain. This collection also finally helped solve the mystery of where some unusual pictures of Black Butte had been taken (the subject of a forthcoming post).

 

The last post I wanted to put up does not quite fit in with the rest but is worth mentioning. It concerns a somewhat forgotten vista point and monument on Mount Shasta. Though it is prominently identified on the Everitt Memorial Highway, the vista and monument don’t see too much traffic anymore since the forest has encroached on the vista and the view is no longer what it once was. Built to memorialize John Everitt, the Shasta National Forest supervisor who died near there fighting a fire in 1935.

Stereographic Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on February 24, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History. 3 Comments

mtshastastereo-2

I stumbled upon an awesome collection of stereographic cards of the Mount Shasta area curated and placed online by the New York Public Library. The site also includes an interesting feature that creates 3D or animated versions of the stereographic cards (of course, the animated images will likely induce siezures, which makes this feature less fun). Most of the cards are from late 19th and early 20th century. It is a fascinating glimpse of the area’s history. It shows what the land and life was like 100 or so years ago. Interestingly, it shows the mountain from 3 of the 4 sides, including the rarely seen east side. It also includes some images from high up on the mountain. Though the view of Mount Shasta from the south is missing, it does feature a handful of images of the Castle Crags and the Shasta Springs vicinity. It is surprising how many remote locations are included and how recognizable they are (assuming, of course that I am right, which I may not be). I have done my best to identify where they were taken as best as I can. I hope this is found to be as interesting as I think it is.

Click to enlarge:

Vintage Color Photos Of Mount Shasta From 1907

Posted by bubbasuess on May 20, 2016
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History. 5 Comments

SPVintage

I have been meaning to post this for the last couple of weeks but working on my book has kept from doing so. The SF Chronicle posted a collections of colorized photos taken to promote the Southern Pacific’s rail line from Los Angeles to Portland. Of the 115 or so images 7 them are of the Mount Shasta area. Skip to images 85-92 to view the Mount Shasta area images. They are a fine gateway into the history of this region (and California and Oregon in general) and make for intriguing discussion pieces. While this is not exactly hiking related, I find historical documents like this intriguing for a few reasons. It is interesting to try to determine what has and has not changed. It is also useful for picking up clues to places that people once frequented that are not longer “on the map”. Spots like Summit Lake and the Ruby Pearl Mine are places that I have been alerted to through historical documents that are no longer “advertised” anymore.

Some of their locations are obvious, such as Mossbrae Falls and Shasta Springs Resort. Other locations are a little less specific. Of the two shots of Mount Shasta, one is probably from near Sisson’s Lodge, which was located near the museum and fish hatchery while the second is presumably from the climb up to Castle Lake. The shot of Black Butte, notably referred to as Muir’s Peak (click here for more on John Muir’s connection to Mount Shasta), is more enigmatic. The shape of the peak indicates a westerly perspective. However, it is definitely not the view from Mills Meadow. The only realistic possibilities for where that image could have been taken from are a springtime, flooded Kaiser Meadow (I think this is possible but unlikely) or possibly Abrams Lake (without the RV park). Interestingly, both are right along the rail line. If anyone can identify this spot, I would love to know where exactly it is!

SPVintage3

I tend to be a sucker for this kind of thing and I am always on the lookout for interesting Mount Shasta artifacts. This is a pretty cool collection that gives us a glimpse of how things used to be and how the land has resisted change.

 

Year Two Of Hike Mt Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on January 30, 2015
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Rivers, Waterfalls, Wilderness. 4 Comments

Cascades, Mt. Shasta - Jan2015 001 (Custom)

 

Today marks the second anniversary of the launch of Hike Mt Shasta. It has been a fantastic year for this endeavor. Traffic was high and steady as more folks found their way here to get beta on exploring this amazing part of California. I have really enjoyed corresponding with everyone who has sent me questions and comments (though I do apologize if it takes me a little while to respond sometimes!). I hope that the information on this site continues to be useful for getting out and enjoying the beauty of Northern California. Even if we can’t be here, it is my desire that Hike Mt Shasta has enabled people to enjoy this area from afar. Wherever you are, I want my love for Mount Shasta to rub off a bit! Thanks to everyone who has given me corrective feedback, a word of encouragement or simply expressed appreciation.

However, while the site was a great success, there was even more going on behind the scenes. I was working on a pair of books and this year that took a lot of focus off of the site. There were a few months where I completely missed putting up blog posts and even one month in which I failed to take a single picture of Mount Shasta. Even though this was because I was on the road, it was a first for me. If I miss a month in the future, I had better have a dern good reason! I am pretty proud of the work I did on the books and they are going to be published soon. I plan to speak about these with a little more length in the near future, but they deserve mention here because of the way they dominated my life in 2014.

Thanks again for reading Hike Mt Shasta!

Favorite posts of 2014:

Cascades, Mt Shasta, Mud Creek - June2014 062 (Custom)Seldom Seen: Lower Mud Creek Canyon: Relatively easy to get to but lost in the vast forests on the southeast corner of Mount Shasta, the lower section of Mud Creek Canyon is a gorgeous slice of Mount Shasta’s wildlands. Hiking along Mud Creek as it continues to carve its way through the canyon is great as much for the scenery as it is for the sense of lostness and isolation. Punctuated by occasional views of the summit of Mount Shasta, the trip also enjoys tall cliffs and a old growth forests. The highlight is a nifty waterfall on Mud Creek, one that is rarely seen and little appreciated despite its beauty. Those who make the trip into the canyon are in for a real treat!

Cascades, Mt Shasta, Diller Canyon - March2014 034 (Custom)Seldom Seen: Diller Canyon: Where Lower Mud Creek Canyon is obscured by great forests on a little seen side of Mount Shasta, Diller Canyon is high on the side of the mountain, at and above treeline and clearly visible from many well-traveled places, including Interstate 5. Despite this, it maintains a relative obscurity. Even though it is easily accessed via Everitt Memorial Highway and reached by means of an easy and view-packed hike, Diller Canyon remains off the radar as a hiking destination. This certainly isn’t all bad since the few who do make the trip here can enjoy awesome views of the Trinity Divide as well as the gaping chasm of the canyon as it climbs relentlessly up the side of Shastina until it ends just below the cone’s summit. Why this is not a maintained, official trail on Mount Shasta is a mystery to me. It certainly would be easy to make it one and would no doubt be a very popular path. Even though it continues to languish in obscurity, for those who do venture to Diller Canyon, the trip is a powerful experience.

Cascades, Mt. Shasta - Feb2014 027 (Custom)A Journey Unheralded: The Shasta River: I love rivers and the stories that go along with them. Each has a collection of tales and history that give them a distinct personality. To some degree, my thoughts on this were shaped by the book “Through Time and the Valley “, which recounts the tales of the people who lived their lives along the lonely Canadian River in the Texas Panhandle. For me, the Shasta River shares many of the qualities with the Canadian River, but with a major upgrade in terms of scenery (of course, the desolate plains and badlands of the Panhandle are beautiful in their own way and are part of what gives the Canadian River its personality). I love trying to photograph Mount Shasta from the river. It is not always easy because most of the river is on private property but it is a challenge I am willing to undertake! I wish this river received more love than it does and it is my hope that folks are moved to explore it more whenever I write about it. Personally, my little part in the river’s story is one of the most tragic and unusual thus far in my life.

Cascades, Mt. Shasta - June2013 002 copy (Custom)Vantage Lost: The Everittt Memorial Vista: I love history and I am  a sucker for lost things. The vista platform on Mount Shasta perfectly captures my imagination. The fact that this interesting site is hiding in plain sight fascinates me and compels exploration. The story of what the memorial commemorates is sad but reminds us of the sacrifice and perseverance of our forebears. While the view has been lost, it is still an interesting place to visit and includes a short nature trail that passes through beautiful old growth red firs and passes a historic ski shelter, a remnant of earlier days of winter activity on the mountain. Even though the forest has reclaimed the view from the tower (other than a perspective of far-off Lassen Peak), there is a great view of almost the entire Trinity Divide and the distant Trinity Alps from the top of the driveway that descends down to the vista’s parking area.

Trinity Alps, Grizzly Lake - June2013 065b_edited-1 (Custom)Mount Shasta Area Waterfalls: Giants Of The Trinity Alps: Needless to say, I am a complete waterfall junkie. I was raised on the spectacular specimens of Yosemite (some might say spoiled), so while I love all waterfalls, I have a pretty high standard when it comes to what ranks as a top-tier cataract. Here in the far northern part of California, the best falls are (obviously) Burney Falls, the fantastic waterfalls on Mount Shasta itself, and the epic falls of the Trinity Alps. These last in particular have a special place in my heart, since they stand shoulder to shoulder with many of Yosemite’s best and share many of the same characteristics with them as well. White water falling of stark gray granite is possibly my favorite sight in the world and the knowledge that  some truly epic falls like this exist just a few miles to the west is a very comforting thought. Grizzly Falls in particular, is one of the most amazing waterfalls in the world, plunging hundreds of feet directly out of what might be the prettiest lake in the North State.

A 19th Century Engraving Of An Epic Mount Shasta Vista

Posted by bubbasuess on January 3, 2015
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History. Tagged: . 3 Comments

Cascades, Mt Shasta, Clear Creek - Aug2012 028 (Custom)

I really enjoy 19th century and early 20th century artistic depictions of the American West. This naturally spills over to a particular fascination with works that portray Mount Shasta. My interest was heightened after doing research on an old painting of Mount Shasta that I acquired from my mother (read about that journey here and here). The best place to go for a collection of paintings, sketches and engravings of the Mount Shasta area is the fantastic book Sudden and Solitary by William Miesse. I have enjoyed this book for the last few years, after being inspired to purchase it when visiting the Turtle Bay museum’s exhibit on the art of Mount Shasta a few years ago. The display has since been closed but most of the works present at the exhibit are included in the book.

wm-tm1While there are many beautiful and historically interesting works depicting Mount Shasta, one of my absolute favorites is an engraving by Thomas Moran. He, along with Albert Bierstadt, is the preeminent 19th century painter of western landscapes. Moran and Bierstadt’s works were integral in inspiring public appreciation of the great beauty of the lands to the west and moved the public to support the preservation of these incredible places. Their paintings hang in many prestigious museums and are even located in the White House. Both artists have major peaks named after them as well. Mount Bierstadt in Colorado is one of that state’s elite 14ers. Mount Moran in Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming is among the most dramatic peaks in the storied range, second only to the Grand Teton itself. While both painters are well known as oil painters, Moran also worked with engravings. Specifically, the engravings were created as magazine illustrations. Moran would often make engravings of places he had not been based on sketches other people created. This is in stark contrast to his paintings, for which Moran personally joined expeditions into remote areas in order to document the landscape. In interpreting the sketches of other people, it is natural for things to become exaggerated or emphasis placed on the wrong feature on a mountain. This is the same practice that caused my painting of Mount Shasta to be almost unrecognizable.

In the case of my favorite engraving by Moran, the scene being depicted is Mud Creek Canyon. It is not exaggerated so much that it is unrecognizable but it is certainly distorted enough that someone unfamiliar with Mount Shasta should be forgiven for not recognizing the great mountain. This is further obfuscated by the fact that the engraving is showing a fairly unappreciated perspective on the mountain (albeit an absolutely spectacular one and one of my personal favorites). It does seem as though the view is from the west side of Mud Creek canyon but all the same features are visible from the east side, which is the location of the Clear Creek Trail. While the scene is not proportioned correctly, it is amazing just how many landmarks are present:

Most early depictions of Mount Shasta portray the mountain from down below as the artist gazed up at its icy heights. An early work made on the mountain is certainly unusual (another similarity with my painting, which is also made from on Mount Shasta). Nonetheless, it is an epic and inspiring view. I hope that more folks will head up onto the Clear Creek Trail and climb up to the spectacular vista of Mount Shasta. This view of the great volcano is not famous or iconic but it is so grand, so magnificent, so packed with rugged grandeur, that it certainly deserves to be one of the iconic images of the American West.

Off Season Trails: Three Trails Along The Sacramento River

Posted by bubbasuess on February 23, 2014
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Off Season Trails, Rivers, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls, Winter Trails. Tagged: . 11 Comments
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The Sacramento River passes alongside the Sacramento River Trail.

The Sacramento River is California’s longest and largest river. Even though it collects a substantial amount of water from the Sierra Nevada by means of several major rivers and innumerable smaller rivers and creeks, it is not a Sierra river itself. Instead it begins high in the Trinity Divide opposite the Strawberry Valley from Mount Shasta. Despite its beginnings at high elevation in the Trinity Divide, the Sacramento River does not spend much time in alpine territory. It quickly races out of the mountains and, after a brief stilling at Lake Siskiyou, it continues its descent down to Shasta Lake. Since most of its length is less than 3,000 feet elevation, the canyon bottom around the river receives considerably less snowfall than the higher regions. This presents an excellent opportunity for hikers during the winter. While the trails on Mount Shasta and in the Trinity Divide are usually smothered in snow the paths that access the Sacramento River are often pleasantly clear. This time in winter and spring is the perfect opportunity for hikers to get out and enjoy the trails that the river has to offer.

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Mount Shasta peers down onto the Sacramento River.

Three trails currently exist along the Sacramento River: the Hedge Creek Falls Trail, the Sacramento River Trail, and the Sims History Trail. None of these trails are long so they are not great options for an all day excursion but what they lack in length they make up for in the numerous interesting features. All three trails provide varying degrees of access to the river and each yields varying perspectives on the nature of the river and its canyon is it flows south toward Shasta Lake. Between the three of them, hikers can enjoy a beautiful waterfall and raucous creek as it flows down into the Sacramento, a swinging bridge over the river and a trailside creek that hugs the riverbank and crosses numerous small creeks, and a path that explores a historic steel bridge and CCC camp and offers the opportunity to scramble over open, rocky banks while the river roars past. For those needing a mountain fix in the midst of winter, these are all great options to get outside and enjoy the Sacramento River, one of the great features of the Mount Shasta area.

Hedge Creek Falls Trail

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Hedge Creek Falls.

Adjacent to and easily accessed off of Interstate 5, the short Hedge Creek Falls Trail seems a world away from the speeding cars and loud trucks on the freeway. It quickly descends down into Hedge Creek’s canyon and the sounds and sights of the interstate disappear immediately. Hikers are left with an easy descent down to Hedge Creek Falls, a beautiful waterfall that spills out of deeply gouged notch in a hanging columnar basal cliff. A highlight of the trail is the routing behind the waterfall, through a cave beneath the columnar basalt. In the coldest depths of winter a gorgeous collection of ice crystals form where the falls crash down into a pool. From the falls the trail continues to descend, this time just above Hedge Creek which proceeds to crash over several smaller but still scenic cataracts. The trail finally at a great vista of Mount Shasta looming high over the Sacramento River as it runs noisily through its deep canyon. For those who want more of the river an unofficial use trail continues down to the confluence of Hedge Creek and the river.

Sacramento River Trail

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Rapids along the Sacramento River Trail.

Offering the longest and best exposure to the Sacramento River of any of the three trails that provide access to it, the Sacramento is also the longest trail along the river. Offering a surprising amount of excitement, the trail begins by passing through a narrow tunnel beneath the railroad tracks and then proceeds to cross the Sacramento on a swinging suspension bridge. From there the trail heads east along the bank of the river for about a mile. It starts high above the water but gradually descends until it roughly at the river’s level. Along the way the trail passes several yew and Port Orford cedars, both fairly rare trees that greatly enhance the botanical features of the trail. Once arriving at the river’s level the banks shift from rocky, tree lined banks to exposed bedrock that creates many narrow rapids. Small side channels also form in the naked rock and either produce small cataracts at high water or tidepool-like pockets of water amidst the rugged rock. After crossing several streams, some of which are substantial, the trail finally ends along the river. Here there is an off-trail scramble to an unusual set of columnar basalt set above the river.

Sims History Trail

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The old bridge crosses the Sacramento River.

Not quite out of Mount Shasta’s orbit, the Sims History Trail is a bit far to travel from Mount Shasta just to hike the short trail (unless fishing is involved). Still, for those heading north or south along Interstate 5, it is certainly worth the time to stop and stretch the legs. For those who do stop, the trail offers very scenic opportunity to enjoy both the Sacramento River and significant amount of early 20th century history. The official part of the trail parallels the river for a while before turning inland and passing ruins from a 1930’s era CCC camp. The most notable relic from this time period is the large steel bridge at the trailhead, which can be combined with the modern road bridge to make a short but nice little loop. More ambitious hikers can continue beyond the history trail on a faint use trail that leads to a rocky riverbank where the Sacramento tumbles over some nice rapids. This section of the river beckons hikers to explore further, particularly downstream, where the Sacramento enters a shallow but very rocky little gorge.

Vantage Lost: The Everitt Memorial Vista

Posted by bubbasuess on January 22, 2014
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Trinity Divide. Tagged: , . 12 Comments
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A great view of the canyons of the South, Middle and North Fork of the Sacramento River in the Trinity Divide.

Tremendous views of surrounding mountains are one of the great joys of hiking on Mount Shasta.  The far-reaching panoramas are abundant along every trail on the mountain. This is, in large measure, a result of the incredible amount of terrain that lies above the timberline. Most of the trails on the mountain travel across barren slopes where the trees are scarce. It is easy to appreciate the landscape when the forest does not obstruct the view. For those not setting out on the trails, great views are still within reach, especially when driving the final section of the Everitt Memorial Highway from just past Red Fir Flat to the road’s end at the Old Ski Bowl. Here drivers and picnickers are blessed with astounding views of Mount Shasta itself as well as the opportunity to take in much of the area to the south, including Lassen Peak. From the Old Ski Bowl, the views are even better and include most of the Trinity Divide and even the higher peaks of the distant Trinity Alps. These incredible spots are well known and easy to access. Yet there is another vantage point that offers stunning panoramic views stretching from the Lassen area in a wide arc to the northwest all the way to China Mountain at the nexus of the Trinity Divide and the Scott Mountains. This vantage point, the John Everitt Memorial Vista, was once a significant attraction on Mount Shasta. Now it is a nearly lost and forgotten relic, hidden amongst the dense forest of Mount Shasta’s southwestern flank.

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A view of the southern Trinity Divide, including the Castle Crags and the Grey Rocks, from near the Everitt Memorial Vista.

The vista and the road that accesses it are named after John S. Everitt. He was the forest supervisor for the Shasta National Forest who died while fighting the Bear Springs Fire in 1935. At the time, the Shasta National Forest was a single entity, unlike now, when it is part of the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. After being founded in 1905 as the Shasta Forest Reserve, it was merged with the Trinity National Forest into its modern incarnation in 1954. The headquarters for the Shasta National Forest was located at the current ranger district offices in Mount Shasta City. It was here that John Everitt ran the administration of the lands on and around Mount Shasta. He was a part of the second generation of foresters that followed on the heels of forestry pioneers like Gifford Pinchot, the first head of the Nation Forest Service. Everitt was a graduate of the College of Forestry at Cornell, the first academic school of forestry in the U.S. He was undoubtedly influenced by the conservation ethic of men like Theodore Roosevelt and Pinchot, who were at the forefront of the forestry movement (amazingly, forestry was a new discipline in the early 20th century, as managing the forests of the U.S. became a concern in the face of increasing development across the country).

Prior to his arrival in Mount Shasta, Everitt had worked for the Forest Service in the Lassen, Plumas and Stanislaus National Forests, as well as a stint in Southern California’s San Bernardino National Forest. He was appointed the head of the Shasta National Forest early in 1935. When the fire erupted on the southern slopes of Mount Shasta Everitt was quick to lead the effort to contain the fire. At the time, the Forest Service was still heavily influenced by the leadership of William Greeley who, as the head of the Forest Service, had made fire suppression the agency’s primary mission (in large measure a legacy of the Firestorm of 1910). Naturally, a fire on Mount Shasta was a significant concern to Everitt and the rest of the Forest Service. One afternoon during the firefight, Everitt set out alone to scout the fire. The winds shifted quickly and he was ultimately trapped and killed by the flames. He was the first forest supervisor killed in defense of his charge.

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The observation deck at the Everitt Memorial Vista.

Today the Everitt Memorial Highway and the John Everitt Memorial Vista bear his name in tribute to his sacrifice on the slopes of Mount Shasta. The highway (OK, it is really just a paved road but compared to the rough dirt roads that climb the flanks of Mount Shasta, it really is a highway to the higher elevation) used extensively throughout the year. People refer to the Everitt Memorial Highway on a regular basis but few know the tale of the man for whom it is named. Sadly, the vista, located near the place where John Everitt lost his life, is all but forgotten. This is in large measure a result of the Forest Service’s decision at some point many years ago to not cut the trees around the observation deck. They have grown to the point that the view is all but gone. Only Lassen Peak far to the south is visible. The Trinity Divide, the Trinity Alps and the Strawberry Valley (the large valley between the Cascades and the Klamath Mountains where Mount Shasta City is located) are all lost to the trees. That this site was not preserved is unfortunate. It is a great resource for the community and could provide a wonderful introduction to the region for those who are unfamiliar with it. Located below Bunny Flat, it has the bonus of being accessible all year since the road is plowed throughout winter. The infrastructure at the site is great. There is a paved road down to the circular parking area and a rest room. A short nature trail loops through the surrounding forest and leads to both the observation deck and the ruins of an old ski shelter that was once a part of a series of winter shelters that led to Mount Shasta’s higher elevation. The observation deck itself is an impressive structure, reminiscent of edifices one would expect to find in national parks. It is a shame that the view from this great spot has been lost.

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An awesome view of Mount Eddy and the northern Trinity Divide from near the Everitt Memorial Vista.

In a recent conversation with a Forest Service member, it was revealed that plans are being made to harvest the trees around the vista and restore the view from the observation deck. There is no timetable for this action yet but this is the first step toward resurrecting this great attraction on the slopes of Mount Shasta and while there is a desire for restoration, efforts to do so hampered by lack of funds. Hopefully this area will one day be restored and folks can once again enjoy the picnic area and stroll to the awesome vista to appreciate the incredible mountains of the Mount Shasta region. Even now, with the view still obscured, the vista is worth visiting. It is a good place to enjoy Mount Shasta’s lower forests, its history and to ponder the sacrifice of those who have paid a price to preserve our heritage. To get there, drive 8.4 miles from the intersection of the Everitt Memorial Highway and Rockfellow (the beginning of the highway, near the high school). There is no sign but there is a paved driveway and a guard rail marking the spot. There is a fantastic view of the Trinity Divide and Strawberry Valley from the junction of the highway and the vista’s driveway. It gives a sense of the incredible view this site once provided and hopefully will in the future.

Everitt Vista