Trinity Divide

A Red Sunset Over Lake Siskiyou

Posted by bubbasuess on August 17, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide. Tagged: . 1 Comment

The sun sets below Mount Eddy and the Trinity Divide.

Last week the Mount Shasta area was shrouded in an oppressive cloud of smoke. While none burned in the immediate area, there are a few fires to the west in the Klamath Mountains, the Antelope Fire to the east of Mount Shasta and the apocalyptic inferno that is the Dixie Fire to the southeast. The smoke from these conflagrations has been mixing together into a deathly soup that has stayed put over the area and seemed as though it would never go away. Thankfully the pressure off the coast has begun to shift, bringing a little relief to our corner of Northern California. While it remains to be seen how it will effect the fires, it did bring some clearer skies to Mount Shasta.

After dinner we decided to take advantage of it and head to Lake Siskiyou for some evening swimming. This was a far cry from earlier in the weekend. My wife had taken the kids to the lake on Saturday and, as expected, it was a complete zoo. Despite the smoke, a horde had descended on the lake to escape the heat. Naturally, that was not a deterrent to the kids having a good time and they loved cooling off in the water.

Last night, however, was a completely different experience. We were, literally, the only ones at the lake. At least, we were the lonly ones at North Shore. There were no kayakers or paddle boarders or anything visible. The conditions were also remarkably different. There was smoke, but it was mostly manifest as brown clouds, rather than the inpenatrable blanket that had limited visiblity a to a few hundred yards. The entire lake was cast in an unearthly yellow light. The kids once again had a blast swimming, paddleboarding and snorkeling. My wife and I sat on the shore and read while the wind blew.

Of course, the smoky conditions made the sunset a surprisingly spectacular one. There was enough haze that the sun could be gazed on directly with out any discomfort to the eyes. I could not resist pulling out my camera and catching a few images as the disc sank toward the horizon. Part of me doesn’t like photographing smoky conditions, but I can’t deny the unitque beauty the it can produce.

This has been a rough summer in a lot of ways, the fires being just one component of the challenge. In spite of this, an evening like this, where the danger that confronts us is known and recognized and the kids, blissful and blessed with a lack of concern true to their age, are still able to enjoy themselves is a helpful antidote. Between the beauty and the fun, I could put away the world for a little while and enjoy.

Fascinating Evidence Of A Deluge On A Creek

Posted by bubbasuess on May 7, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls. 4 Comments

May is a month that I typically spend hunting for waterfalls. With the snow melting and the mountains opening up, yet the temperatures comfortable, it is the perfect season to track cataracts. It is surprising just how many creeks in the Trinity Divide are largely unexplored and unappreciated, especially when there is some pretty spectacular scenery waiting to be discovered. In many cases, though people have no doubt been there in the past, I often feel as if it has been a long while since anyone has set foot in these canyons and along these creeks. Such was the case recently, when a friend and I explored one of the Trinity Divide’s obscure waterways.

The creek in question was quite beautiful, flowing through primeval forest and choked with rocks of every imaginable size. Indeed, it was this rock that really caught our attention. At first something just seemed amiss but it soon came into focus that all the rocks were loose. They had not found a locked repose as riparian boulders typically do. Nonetheless, the creek was vigorous, wild and refreshing.

Eventually it became obvious to us that the creek had endured a massive deluge at some point in the not-too-distant past. Not only were the rocks loose along the creek but we began to notice the same rocks higher up the banks and in places where it would seem the water wouldn’t typically flow. This soon became so pronounced that we could see rocks on logs well above the creek’s channel:

Rock deposited on a log high above the creekbed.

Moreover, this was not limited to small pebbles or larger, fist-sized rock. Indeed, larger boulders had also been left stranded high above the creek:

Boulders left beyond the creek’s typical high water line.

We surmised that the creek had experienced an incredible flashflood at some point not too long ago. However, what mystified us was that the rocks often appeared to have been left on top of the leaves and duff of the forest floor. We assumed that this normal forest detritus would have been scoured away by the torrential waters. This was seemingly not always the case and rocks were left on top of the “leaf layer”:

Rocks seen lined up on a log that was already buried beneath the leaves.

It remains a mystery exactly what happened along this creek and when it occurred. What is certain is that the creek is a beautiful waterway that does great credit to the Trinity Divide and the Mount Shasta area. And yes, there were waterfalls:

Mount Shasta’s Show Fleeting But A Fine One (And Mount Eddy Too!)

Posted by bubbasuess on February 25, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide. Leave a comment

Though Wednesday proved to be clear-skied Thursday morning offered something altogether different. The forecast called for clouds in the morning. With that in mind, I headed out yet again, but I had slept longer than normal so I only had a few minutes to get to a vantage point before the color really set in. The destination was one only a few minutes from my house and it is a classic standby. I generally try to avoid this one these days but when time is short, it works in a pinch. This turned out to be a good morning to go there, since the color on Mount Shasta was good and the clouds were interesting but the real show was over Mount Eddy. This spot has a good perspective on both, which really paid off.


The summit of Mount Shasta was partially obscured in the clouds but the clouds themselves were quite nice. They soaked up the light of the rising sun in fine fashion. It was hard to distinguish but there was actually a bit of a lenticular in a higher layer of cloud. Though it would have been challenging to really appreciate from the north, the mountain also cast a nice sunrise shadow. Overall, a nice sunrise, but not one as grand as I had hoped.


While Mount Shasta lacked really interesting clouds, the peaks to the west were graced with lenticular-like clouds. Peak 7,869 was light up brightly by the morning light. Over the summit a stream of cloud coursed in layered urgency. It too was alight. This prominent peak is surprisingly nameless and I have come up with various names in the past but that will have to be the subject of another post. If you have a name for this peak, leave a comment. I would love to hear other ideas for this one.


Mount Eddy was the real star of the morning. Even though the eastern side of the mountain is not its best visage it is still higher and larger than anything to the west and the rugged, treeless upper flanks are still quite scenic. Thursday morning saw the mountain overshadowed by a layered lenticular that was highlighted by the sunrise glow. It was hard to get the entire scene into frame and the cloud extended well south of Mount Eddy but the best parts were captured and it ended up being one of the better cloud formations I have captured over that mountain.


Without warning, the color began to fade as the sun rose and the clouds blocked out the light. It grew really overcast before all the clouds blew away, leaving only a small lenticular over Mount Shasta. That too was gone before noon, leaving clear skies for the rest of the day. It was a short performance but it was a good one.


By evening the clouds had not made a return but, on the way home from renting some skis for my son, I saw the moon had risen over Mount Shasta. That was worth a stop to capture with the mountain starting to light up with alpenglow. Considering there were no clouds over the mountain, it was a nice way to end the day. We’ll see what tomorrow brings…

Crags of Light And Crazy Clouds: A Few Days Around Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on February 10, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Lenticular Clouds, Mount Shasta. 3 Comments

A trio of “lenticulish” clouds surround Mount Shasta on a cold and beautiful morning.

The last few days have been busy for me and I wasn’t able to get out during the weekend as much as I wanted to. However, I was at times able to get out on the margins and still catch some sunrises, sunsets and do a little investigation in anticipation of one of my spring exploration projects. I submit these images humbly, stating upfront that there is no consistent theme to all of these images other than to show conditions around Mount Shasta over the last few days.


Firstly, I am quite pleased to find that the puddles in the Shasta Valley have finally returned! They were last present in the late winter and spring of 2019 but the weak winter a year later meant there were no puddles through 2020. Thankfully the hefty storm that sailed through in January of 2021 was sufficient to recharge the puddles and they seem to have some staying power for the time being. More precipitation will only serve to replenish the aquifer further and help them last deeper into the spring.


I have some significant explorations planned for this spring in the Little Castle Creek drainage. I have been doing some preliminary investigations to that end lately. On one early morning outing I was there in time for sunrise on the Castle Crags. This particular cliff it called Triple Top, and it towers 2,000 feet over Little Castle Creek. It still shocks me that such incredible features remain almost totally anonymous.

The crags mirror their distant cousins, the Sierra Nevada and reflect the light beautifully. John Muir said of the Sierra Nevada:

“Looking eastward from the summit of Pacheco Pass one shining morning, a landscape was displayed that after all my wanderings still appears as the most beautiful I have ever beheld. At my feet lay the Great Central Valley of California, level and flowery, like a lake of pure sunshine … And from the eastern boundary of this vast golden flower-bed rose the mighty Sierra, miles in height, and so gloriously colored and so radiant, it seemed not clothed with light but wholly composed of it, like the wall of some celestial city…. Then it seemed to me that the Sierra should be called, not the Nevada or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light. And after ten years of wandering and wondering in the heart of it, rejoicing in its glorious floods of light, the white beams of the morning streaming through the passes, the noonday radiance on the crystal rocks, the flush of the alpenglow, and the irised spray of countless waterfalls, it still seems above all others the Range of Light.”

It seems to me, given the granite composition of the Castle Crags and their similarity and distant familial connection to the Sierra, that they too may be called the Crags of Light. Or maybe I am being a little too dramatic. I don’t know.


Given Monday’s weather, Tuesday morning looked auspicious for some lenticulars and, as I had guessed, there were some over Mount Shasta. Mornings are always frustrating this time of year because positions with the best light are often harder to get to due to snow. With Castle Lake Road still being plowed, Lake Siskiyou seemed the best vantage from which to appreciate the clouds at dawn. Fortunately the lake was somewhat still and a reflection was possible. Not perfect, by any stretch but enough to allow the color in the sky to be appreciated in the gently rippling water. While the scene was not epic, it was quietly beautiful and a satisfying encounter with the mountain.

Looking closer to the sunrise on Tuesday morning.

It is interesting that Mount Shasta still looks a bit bare at this time. We have had a fair amount of snow over the past month, yet the mountain’s ridges are all exposed as if it had only been lightly inundated. I think this state reflects the fact that all the snow that fell was very dry powder. It has accumulated a good pack in some places but on the more exposed terrain, the wind whipped it off of the mountain very quickly.

Sunrise on Wednesday morning.

Wednesday morning brought another pretty sunrise. There were some vaguely “lenticulish” clouds around the mountain but by the time the sunlight brightened up the clouds, they had lost much of their definition. However, looking at the forecast for this evening, I am hopeful that something interesting may manifest.

As we are nearly a third of the way through February, I am eagerly anticipating March and the coming of spring. I have many places set to explore in the Castle Crags and that is the optimal time to get into those granite towers and explore the fountains and gardens that are hidden away in that jumble of spires. Until then, snowshoes and other winter sports (and some trips to Sonoma County and Prairie Creek Redwoods) will have to get me through the winter!

I really hope everyone is able to endure the rest of winter with warm hearts. The times we live in are deeply troubling but there is still much good in the world, great cause for hope, and spring draws nigh!

Wild Concrete: Exploring The Scott Mountains And Trinity Divide’s Cement Formations

Posted by bubbasuess on June 24, 2020
Posted in: Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Scott Mountains, Trinity Divide. 3 Comments

“Beargrass Falls” pours over a cement bank.

Over the last several months, I have been exploring a lot of Mount Shasta area’s canyons, most of which tend to get overlooked by hikers. These canyons are found on Mount Shasta, in the Trinity Divide, and in the criminally ignored Scott Mountains. The latter two has offered a glimpse into the Klamath Mountain’s odd geologic past and been a highlight of many scrambles through some rugged and beautiful areas. The exploration of these wild areas is enhanced by the mysterious anonymity of the land but also by some unusual geologic features.

In particular, the Trinity Divide and Scott Mountains have a tendency to exhibit “cement”, which are large collections of loose rock that have been packed together like aggregate in a natural concrete. From the reading I have done, at least one formation I have seen is attributed to glacial activity. However, this formation, and all the others I have observed, seem to be filled with river rock, which may or may not fit the glacial theory. Furthermore, all the other examples I have seen are located along water ways, which seems to indicate the possibility of a flood having been involved in the formation of these unusual features.

So what is “cement”? I have no concrete idea (pun intended) but it does make for interesting hiking and I thought it worthwhile to note the existence of this unusual feature. Here are some examples of the strange phenomenon:

Cement Bluff and Bluff Lake

Perhaps the most interesting and well known is the Cement Bluff, which rises in distinctive fashion above Bluff Lake. It, along with the Cement Banks in the Trinity Alps Wilderness, are the only examples I know of that have formed along a ridge rather than along a creek or river. The glacial explanation I have seen was given specifically for these formations and may not even apply to the riparian variety. They do seem linked, however. Regardless of the connection, it is a remarkable formation and intriguing in the mysterious nature of its creation. Bluff Lake is also a charming lake, fringed with meadow at the north end and boasting blocks of cement on its south and west shores. It is certainly worth the effort to visit.

 

High Camp Creek surges over a series of small cascades.

Just a short distance from the Cement Bluff, High Camp Creek passes through a block of hard, seemingly erosion-resistant cement. This is the easiest of the riparian formations to access, since it is located right on Parks Creek Road just west of Deadfall Meadow. Here the creek pours over a trio of small cataracts formed by low ledges of cement. Potholes, likely formed by rocks being dislodged by the water are found in the cement.

The middle cascade on High Camp Creek is the tallest of the three.

Of the three, the middle cataract is the largest and most interesting in terms of the water feature itself. It has a nice drop of 5 feet or so. The rocky aggregate is evident between the channels of water.

Cement and potholes are evident around the upper cataract.

However, the upper cataract has the easiest display of the cement formation. This creek is a great opportunity to hop down to the water and examine the cement formations that have created the small cataracts. The rocks really do appear to be locked in concrete but the provenance of the formation is natural and not the work of construction crews.

 

The Little Trinity River’s cement formation. 

Further west, the Little Trinity River also flows over a cement formation. Here the rocks are again locked in a natural cement bed, like aggregate encased in concrete. Like High Camp Creek, a nice set of cataracts is formed by the edge of the cement area but these are not as high, amounting to only a couple of feet. The Little Trinity is a very pretty stream. It is a shame there are no trails exploring it.

 

“Beargrass Falls” on Parks Creek.

Perhaps the most scenic example of the cement formations is found along a remote section of Parks Creek, deep in its all-but-forgotten canyon. Here the creek slids over about 40 yards of sloping cement formations before tumbling over a nice 10 waterfall. Rocks are ensconced in the natural concrete along the entire slide. The waterfall is particularly interesting, splitting into two channels that demonstrate very different erosion patterns. The channel on the south side of the creek has retained its integrity and the water cascades over a series of embedded boulders. On the north side the cement has given eroded more swiftly and the water plunges into a narrow slot. In the little slot, the harder concrete layer is visible resting atop a softer, reddish layer. I dubbed the waterfall “Beargrass Falls” because of the profusion of nice beargrass blooms located nearby.

While the Scott Mountains may have the most interesting formations, there are a few good ones in the Trinity Divide as well. Needless to say, I have not thoroughly examined every inch of the canyons that permeate this range, and it is likely that I have missed several examples of this formation.

 

One of the more notable occurrences found in the Trinity Divide is along the North Fork of the Sacramento River. Accessed via the Sisson-Callahan Trail, the river flows through a scenic canyon full of large boulders composed of natural cement. Looking at the surrounding terrain, this band of cement seems isolated from like formations.

The North Fork formation is also noteworthy because it occurs alongside large slabs of bedrock. I am not sure how these different geologic strata fit together but the presence of both solid rock and the band of natural cement hint at some interesting events in the distant past.

 

Another scenic example is found on the main stem of the Sacramento River at the confluence with Deer Creek. Here a high bluff is formed of loose rock pressed together inside a sandy mixture. While this does exhibit similarities to the other formations, it is more akin to the Cement Bluff, where the rocks are fixed in the sand but are looser than those found along the creeks. It is possible these formations are unrelated but that does seem unlikely to me. Read more about this area here.

 

Deer Creek flows through a small cement gorge. Note the creek bank on the right.

Not too far up Deer Creek from the confluence with the Sacramento, Deer Creek passes through another cement formation, this time in the form of a small gorge. As the creek cascades down some short rapids, it enters a surprisingly deep gorge composed of more natural cement. There is not much exposed but the formation is evident if you work down to the water’s edge. Though it lacks the drama of some of the other examples, it is still a site worth mentioning when tabulating all the occurrences of the this type of formation.

I should note that the Scott Mountains continue west of Highway 3 into the Trinity Alps Wilderness. There, near beautiful East Boulder Lake, is the massive Cement Bank formation, which is similar to the Cement Bluff, but on an even larger scale. It is one more example of the unusual cement formations that are found in the Trinity Divide and Scott Mountains.

While none of these cement formations are very well known, they are nonetheless quite fascinating and, in many cases, very scenic. The Cement Bluff and “Beargrass Falls” in particular are exemplary specimens of their kind. Access to these varies from roadside to remote but all make great outings for exploration and adventure and are one more, unsung, feature that makes exploring the Mount Shasta area so rewarding!

 

Parks Creek Sunset

Posted by bubbasuess on June 2, 2020
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide. Leave a comment

Last night I took my family up to Tamarack Creek for a picnic dinner. We set up camp in a beautiful meadow, right near the creek and made Frito Pie, a classic southwestern treat that is popular with my kids. After we ate, we all explored the meadow, enjoying the beautiful views of the verdant expanse and the red and gray cliffs of China Mountain rising 2,000 feet above us. It was all quite wonderful except the sky was overcast and the temperature had just a touch of chill on it. In spite of this, we all had a great time.

The creek in particular is quite nice, alternating between swift flowing sections and mirror-like placid parts. While my wife and oldest son crept along the ground, identifying all the plants, the other two kids and I played on the logs. I am so grateful that summer is finally here!

After leaving the meadow, we decided to drive up to Parks Creek Pass and see if it had finally opened up. To our delight, it had, within the last couple of days! We drove up to the pass and parked. While the kids played in the quarry, my wife and I marveled at the spectacular view to both east and west.

To the east, the Shasta Valley was lit up by the setting sun. Numerous landmarks were visible, including the Whaleback, Deer Mountain, Goosenest, the Haystack and Herd Peak. Most prominent, however, was awesome Sheep Rock. This low, but intricate and mysterious mountain has been the subject of a lot of my attention lately.

The view to the west was even more memorable. The Scott Mountains were all left in shadow by the setting sun but the Trinity Alps were still catching some of the alpenglow. However, a thunderstorm was pouring copious amounts of rain in the Trinity River canyon. The rain was lit up by the low light of the sun as it was slipping further beyond the horizon. The clouds were dark and ominous but beautiful all at once. Behind the rain, the Bear Lakes Basin was visible. This is the closest point of the Trinity Alps to the Mount Shasta area and one of the most spectacular of this spectacular mountain range.

All in all, not a bad evening and with the added benefit of a Parks Creek sunset, a pretty spectacular one too!

Distancing Pt. VI: May In Mount Shasta / The End

Posted by bubbasuess on May 28, 2020
Posted in: Boy Scouts, Cascade Range, Desert, Hiking, Lakes, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls. 3 Comments

A spectacular May morning on Mount Shasta.

It’s hard to believe I haven’t posted anything in May. The month has been incredibly busy, both with work and play. With one blip of rainy/snowy weather, the weather was idyllic most of the month. Naturally the virus has been an influencing factor in some regard but for the most part it has been life as normal up here in Mount Shasta. It is on that note I just want to state that this will be my final post on my and my family’s distancing activities. As Siskiyou County has entered into advanced phases of reopening, it seems that life is returning to the ordinary and I no longer feel the need to commemorate what we have been up to during the “Great Hunkering”. From here on out, it will be a return to the usual Mount Shasta-centric posting. Thanks to everyone who has journeyed along with my family in this strange time!

First the kids (click to enlarge):

They obviously haven’t been up to very much. Life is very hard!

Of course, it wasn’t play an no work. My kids have done considerable work limbing, lopping, loading and other tasks necessary to maintain the land. They are good workers…most of the time.

As stated, about 2/3’s of the way through May, we got some rainy weather that left some fresh snow slightly higher up than the elevation my house is at. Although we were nearly in full summer mode, the wet weather was a bit of a hiccup and, against my will, I was forced to build a fire once again.

During this time, a small possum showed up at the door of our house. My wife, who is adept at handling animals, has taken “Pokey” in as a foster until it is old enough to handle itself in the wild.

With proper rules in place, the Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts continued the tradition of planting flags at the graves of veterans buried at Mount Shasta’s cemetery. There was appropriate distancing and masks etc and, fortunately, the event continued once again.

As far as mountains go, my attention has been focused on finding a variety of off-the-beaten-path destinations. Some have been in the high desert while others have been at the bottom of remote, seldom traveled canyons. These latter have been particularly fun with some great discoveries.

Sheep Rock is one of my favorite destinations on the north side of Mount Shasta. Loaded with history and mystery, it is at its best in spring. Access can be tricky at points but for those who venture into its demesnes, the rewards are ample.

Parks Creek has been a fascination of mine for quite a while and hiking through its deep, rugged and remote canyon is pure joy. More on this awesome waterway in the nearish future, but for now, one video will suffice…

Though there are some nice cataracts along Parks Creek, this passage through a rocky gorge really caught my interest. The way the water has sculpted the rock strata is fascinating.

Naturally, waterfalls are always at the top of my list and the discovery of this fine cataract was a complete serendipity. Found in the course of trying to reach the falls in the video below, this one was earned the hard way.

This waterfall is completely off the radar in the Mount Shasta area but not far from other, popular destinations. About 30 feet high, its power is tremendous. Reaching this waterfall was the result of a lot of trial and error and “manzaneering”. It sure was worth it!

Though easy to reach at a popular lake, this terraced waterfall (unofficially dubbed Terrace Falls) is generally overlooked. The highest tier is the largest but is overexposed in the video. Surrounded by large Port Orford Cedars, it is an impressive sight.

Just above Terrace Falls is another nice little cataract. Not as impressive, but is there such a things as too much video of falling water?

Lastly, it would not be proper to leave out Mount Shasta itself. The mountain has put forward some fine spectacles over the past month. Sadly, there were a few lenticulars that I missed, especially on one frustrating occasion when it manifested while I was in the depths of a deep canyon. We can’t win them all I guess, but it always feels like winning around Mount Shasta!

 

Cement Banks And Flooding Rivers: A Quick Look At The Geology Of The Sacramento River

Posted by bubbasuess on April 23, 2020
Posted in: Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Trinity Divide. Tagged: . 3 Comments

An awesome view of the confluence of Deer Creek and the Sacramento River.

The Upper Sacramento River is that part of the river that lies above Shasta Lake. This section of the river is vigorous and swift-flowing, a classic mountain river racing through a deep canyon. However, the Upper Sacramento River can be further subdivided into more parts. Below Lake Siskiyou, the lone impoundment on the Upper Sacramento the river travels through a lush, narrow canyon. Above the lake the river has a wider flood plain for a brief duration before it splits off into its nascent forks, the South, Middle and North Forks of the Sacramento. Each of these forks lead to headwater basins high in the Trinity Divide. Where they all converge, there is a brief but beautiful and fascinating stretch of river.

The short segment of river where the tributary forks converge is a classic Klamath Mountains river. It flows through a flat plane filled with large rocks of a multitude of colors, hinting at presence of serpentine and peridotite and the complex geologic composition of the Klamath Mountains. Yet, unlike other rivers in the area, some unusual geology is made manifest here that offers an intriguing glimpse into the river’s past. This is most evident at the confluence of Deer Creek with the Sacramento. At this spot the river’s north bank is nearly vertical for 40 to 80 feet, a contrast to the more gentle slope that characterizes the rest riverbank. In this vertical section, layers deposited by previous floods are exposed. It is an unusual opportunity to see the river’s history made plain in the landscape.

The Cement Bluff above Bluff Lake.

Some similar examples are found elsewhere in the Klamath Mountains. These formations are referred to as “cement”. Given the aggregate in each layer, I think it is an appropriate description. The two most prominent formations of this type are the Cement Banks in the Trinity Alps and the Cement Bluff in the Scott Mountains, just north of Mount Eddy. Both are far more massive than the cement formations along the Sacramento River but the one along the river is the most accessible and easiest to examine up close. The other two, larger formations are also somewhat more mysterious since they are further removed from rivers that would flood. It is likely they are the result of glaciation rather than flooding.

Regardless of how the Sacramento cement formations compare to the larger formations elsewhere in the Klamaths, the geologic layers exposed along the river are fascinating in their own right. The added benefit of the river’s presence makes this area as delightful and beautiful as it is compelling.

Just upstream from the confluence is a good place to see layers stacked on each other. The river currently flows through the broad, boulder-filled field. It has been slowly washing away the rocks and digging a deeper channel. Above boulders is another layer of gray sand and smaller rocks. These were deposited during a large flood at some point in the past. Above this is yet another layer of red soil and more rocks, though many of these are not rounded nor exhibit as much evidence of having been tumbled in the water.

 

The same layers are visible just below the confluence with Deer Creek. The boulder layer is at river level while the gray and red layers are stacked above the water. Note that just above the rapids on the left, there are some larger boulders embedded in the soil.

 

From a prominent vista point above the confluence, the layers are more obvious. The river flows through the large boulder field. The gray layer stretches out just above the water and the higher cliffs are composed of red soil.

 

The best place to look at these layers up close is on the spit of land that lies between Deer Creek and the Sacramento. It is possible to climb up to the base of a massive cut bank and examine the rocks. Upon closer investigation one finds that the rocks are very loosely packed into the sand. They are easily removed from the aggregate layer. These rocks were washed down in a large flood and settled into the sandy deposits left behind. At a later date the red layer was deposited on top of this. I have no idea if any of these layers are a product of melting glaciers or if they were all flash floods of immense proportion at some time in the past.

 

Interestingly, these layers extend a short distance up Deer Creek as well. Not far upstream from the confluence, the creek flows through a small gorge it has carved through a sandy bedrock layer. Above that is the multi-colored rocks and then the red layer. Strangely, it almost appears as though the boulder layer and the gray layer have been reversed.

Back at the Sacramento, the process of flooding and erosion continue to shape the river’s passage. Over the last decade the river has widened it channel considerably at the confluence with Deer Creek. In June of 2011 I visited the spot and observed the massive amount of runoff from hot weather and an exceptionally deep snow pack. The river was split into 5 large channels, each of which would currently be considered the river’s full flow in its main channel. When I visited this year, I noticed for the first time that the (current) main channel was much wider and a number of trees have been washed away.

The arrows mark trees that are present in both pictures. Note the base of the dead ponderosa is adjacent to the river now but was set back quite a ways from the channel in 2011.

Note that in addition to the channel being wider and many of the trees washed away, the large ponderosa has died. I am not sure if the tree drowned or the impact of rocks washing downstream damaged its roots or if some other explanation explains its demise. It remains an intriguing landmark from which to measure the growth of the river’s channel.

This section of the Sacramento is my favorite part of the entire river. The cement formations and their corresponding layers never cease to amaze me and I love investigating the ever-changing terrain. It shocks me that there are no trails in this beautiful area, though that is not necessarily a bad thing. Nonetheless, it remains an area that warrants more exploration and offers great rewards to those who take the time to venture just a short way off the beaten path.

The Wild Sacramento River – A Great Place For Winter Scrambling

Posted by bubbasuess on February 29, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Trinity Divide. Leave a comment

Winter view of Mount Eddy from the Sacramento River.

This winter started off with a few great snow storms and that was sustained right through January. However, February dried up and the temperatures went up and what looked like a promising winter has ended up not fulfilling its auspiciousness. While this may present challenges down the road (I don’t think drought is a concern but fire is the primary risk at this point), there is little we can do about it but enjoy the positive side of the mild weather we have been enjoying. While the high country trails are still buried in snow, the lower elevation trails are still open. They are all beautiful, feature interesting geology and are all worthy hikes. What they all lack, however, is a sense of wildness that is found on most of the trails in the high country. That, more than anything else, is the great lack of the winter hiking experience in the Mount Shasta area. There are, however, a few places to find even this most primal attribute. I think my most favorite of these is along the upper Sacramento River, upstream from Lake Siskiyou. Here the river runs wild, the world seems far off and an air of wilderness is pervasive. It is one of my favorite places withing quick striking distance of town.

I have taken my family there a few times in the past couple weeks and we have all enjoyed scrambling on the rocks, enjoying the river and exploring the wild stretches of forest. In all the trips we have taken, only one encounter with other hikers has been had. This really is a premier place to play outside and enjoy one of the region’s less-appreciated destinations.

The wild part of the Sacramento River begins high in the Trinity Divide, rising as three forks that originate from beautiful alpine lakes and expansive, lush meadows. The three forks course energetically through deep canyons before combining into the main stem of the Sacramento, just upstream from the Box Canyon Dam and Lake Siskiyou. When the forks emerge from their canyons, the river flows through a broad valley with ridges lower than the ones that line the headwater canyons. Here the river’s flood plain widens significantly, revealing a vast field of multi-colored river rock. The river charges through the rocky way, pouring over, through and around the rocks that litter its path. Here the Sacramento’s essential character is kinetic and the river manages to at once refresh and energize visitors.

Plenty of rocks to scramble on.

Plenty of rocks to scramble on.

I grew up visiting Yosemite many times per year, for extended periods of time. Since the 1960’s, my family had been staying in the park’s Housekeeping Camp, an extension of famed Camp Curry, where cabins were constructed of concrete walls, canvas roofs and wooden plank fences. The camp is situated on a bend in the Merced River and many of the cabins are located right next to the river. Nowadays much of the riverfront area is fenced off and restoration efforts have allowed the banks to revegitate. This was not the case when I was a kid and the longest stretch of Housekeeping’s riverfront was several hundred yards of large boulders that functioned as riprap near the cabins. As a child, my brother and I would charge up and down the length of this section of river, jumping from one large boulder to the next as fast as possible. This was the earliest memory I have of loving to scramble on rocks and over granite. I still love to do this and it is for this reason that the newly formed Sacramento, just downstream from the confluence of the South and Middle Forks is a place that I am particularly fond of. It is here that I am able to indulge once again in the pleasure of scrambling over stones in the presence of a beautiful river.

Between the confluence of the South and Middle Forks and the inlet into Lake Siskiyou, it is possible to find many spots with plenty of opportunities to enjoy scrambling on the rocks. Nearer to the confluence, the river channel is narrower but there are still plenty of huge rocks to enjoy and small swimming holes to cool off in. Further downstream, as the Sacramento approaches the North Fork, the channel widens and the river rock consists of vast, unbroken fields of boulders, cut by the churning water of the river. Enjoying the beautiful, multi-colored rocks and the lovely river is made all the easier by the presence of Mount Shasta, visible beyond the river in many places.

SacScram

It is easy to pick a spot from which to enjoy the river. Almost anywhere on South Fork Road, once it has crossed into the Shasta-Trinity National Forest, will offer access to a good spot next to the water. Some spots closer to Lake Siskiyou have cliffs on the south side, so getting down to the river can be a bit challenging but most of the area where the road and river run parallel has an easy approach to the water. Many spots on the river have unofficial campsites, where it is possible to pitch a tent just above the water or only a stones through away. A couple of these sites are even blessed with incredible views of Mount Shasta, its mighty cone towering above the river.

There are no trails along this section of the Sacramento River and scrambling over the rocks is the only way to enjoy the raucous beauty. However, scrambling over rocks next to a beautiful river is one of the great joys of being in the mountains and the Sacramento River has one of the best scrambling areas around. It is a special place, whether you are bringing kids who are sure to have fun climbing on the rocks or you are in search of a place conducive to great contemplation. Whatever the reason, just be sure to visit the Sacramento and enjoy one of the great treats of the Mount Shasta area.

Click to enlarge:

Three Spectacular Perspectives On Mount Shasta (And Some Other Pictures Too)

Posted by bubbasuess on November 6, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 2 Comments

A spectacular fall view of Mount Shasta.

The last two days I have made the time to head up to three elevated vistas of Mount Shasta at sunset, sunrise and then the following sunset. It has been a spectacular way to spend the last couple of days, which have been exceedingly beautiful autumn days. Once again, it is hard for me to express how sublime the mountain and the region are this time of year. The weather has been quite warm and though we certainly are at the point where precipitation is needed, I am enjoying the conditions we have been dealt.

Monday sunset:

Monday’s sunset was spent up on Gumboot Point, on the PCT. This view, high above the Gumboot Lakes and the South Fork of the Sacramento, is one of my favorites. With an epic view of Mount Shasta to the east and good perspectives on parts of the Trinity Alps, you can’t ask much more for this. Indeed, this vantage was a bit of two-for, since I was able to get a good view of the Trinities as the sun set.

Thankfully, my family was able to join me for this sunset too!

While the kids had their headlamps on, my wife and I really enjoyed the fading light as we hiked back to the car. The glow over the Trinity Alps set just the right tone as we hiked on the trail, the kids dancing in the light of their headlamps.

Tuesday sunrise:

The next morning I left early and headed up to the Whaleback to watch the sunrise. This might very well be the most spectacular sunrise vista in the Mount Shasta area. The view of the mountain is great, with the light-catching east side readily visible. This side of the mountain is also much whiter than the others. Not only are the mountain’s massive glaciers blanketing the upper flanks, but snow from a couple of weeks ago was still present at the lower elevations.

Another great feature of the view from the Whaleback is the ability to really make out a lot of the great detail on the Hotlum Glacier. In particular, crevasses and the large icefalls are easy to observe. In the end, however, the sum of the parts of the Whaleback view is greater than they are individually. It really is one of the most epic spots in the area.

Tuesday sunset: 

For Tuesday’s sunset, I headed up onto Girard Ridge, which has a particularly pleasing perspective on Mount Shasta. This view is also blessed with a lot of good fall color. While most of the trees around the base of the mountain have faded in the fall show, many of the trees above the Sacramento River are still clinging to their leaves, giving the forest bright spots of color. The addition of clouds to catch the evening light made this view even better!

Of course, if one is on Girard Ridge, then Mount Shasta is by no means the only spectacular sight. The view of the Castle Crags from the ridge is one of the few that can give Mount Shasta a real run for its money. This is a down right jaw-dropping perspective on one of the most magnificent landmarks in Northern California. I don’t think it is as iconic as it should be!

In the end, though, Mount Shasta always wins out. As the sun set and the light on the mountain went away, I was once again amazed at how diverse the mountain and the landscapes around are. It was grateful to have had the opportunity to enjoy all of these spots in such short span of time. I hope others have been able to get out in this great weather and enjoy the incredible creation we have all been blessed with!