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All posts for the month April, 2020

Distancing Pt. V: More Mount Shasta And More Waterfalls

Posted by bubbasuess on April 29, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Uncategorized, Waterfalls. 1 Comment

A glowing April sunrise on Mount Shasta.

It’s been another great week (plus) here in Mount Shasta and the weather and conditions in the mountains keep improving. The snow is really starting to melt out so some excellent high country destinations are starting to open up. Spring really has set in up here and, in addition to the snow melting, the trees have been turning green. If there had to be a time to be social distancing, this is certainly a choice one. I am grateful this was not imposed on us during the winter! Just as in previous weeks, the one past has focused on waterfalls and thaw-engorged creeks and rivers. The real highlight was being able to visit a “lost” waterfall as well as some excellent cascades on the headwaters of Tamarack Creek. These are both in the Scott Mountains, I really underrated mountain range that has been increasingly drawing my attention the last couple of years. I think this summer is finally the summer to focus on them. Of course, Mount Shasta will always be the focus and it has offered some memorable scenes the last few days.

Naturally, my wife and I have gotten our kids outside a lot and they have been feasting on the magnificent scenery and waterfalls. Life is hard!

The highlight for me was the opportunity to hike with a friend to a long lost waterfall high in the mountains. I would estimate it’s height at 80 feet or so. The amazing thing, aside from the falls themselves, is that there was once a built and maintained trail leading to these falls. We found constructed trail, tree blazes and deadfall sawed and cleared off the path. This was all probably 75 years old (our guess) so it has not been maintained for a long time. The trail no longer appears on maps either.

A seemingly lost waterfall high in the mountains.

 

The other big waterfall destination for us was the series of cascades at the headwaters of Tamarack Creek. It is still pretty snowbound at the higher elevations but the warm weather and exposed rock meant easy climbing. The cascades drop a total of over 350 feet in a series of precipitous plunges. With waterfalls, great, superbly tractioned rocks, it is a giant playground perfect for a spring afternoon.

One of the most impressive sections of the Tamarack Creek cascades.

 

Another favorite spot of mine in spring is Castle Lake. I love the waterfall that pours into the lake’s southwest corner. The roar of the falls echoing through the lake’s cirque is magnificent.

The last great piece of water we explored was a rugged canyon with an energetic creek racing through the twists and turns of the narrow, rocky cliffs. This one has some nice waterfalls as well. I didn’t get good images but it will be the subject of more images and words in the near future.

All in all, it has been a fantastic week or so around Mount Shasta. The snow is melting, the water is flowing and the mountain is beautiful. Life is good, regardless of what the prevailing mood seems to be!

A Great Sunrise From Mount Shasta’s South Side

Posted by bubbasuess on April 24, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 1 Comment

Friday morning sunrise on Mount Shasta.

I am about to take off and head up to China Mountain right now so I am going to keep this short. Spring has proven to excellent this year and it was another fine 12 hours on Mount Shasta. The weather has been great and there has been just enough fluctuation in the systems to create some interesting formations over the mountain.

 

The first inkling I had that something interesting might happen was early Thursday afternoon when a wispy little cloud formed over Mount Shasta. It came and went and there were no other clouds in the sky. Its presence hinted at the potential for something larger to take shape later in the day.

 

This proved to be the case and the wisp grew at sunset. It wasn’t a really interesting cloud but the light on the mountain was good and it added a nice accent as the sun went down. It seems strange to dismiss the spectacle as uninteresting given that it is Mount Shasta and magnificent. I need to guard against complacency.

 

I suspected the cloud would still be present in the morning and this proved to be the case. I debated where to go to best capture it and decided to head over to McCloud. This turned out to not be the best angle on the lenticular but it was definitely the best angle to catch the sunrise light. It was another terrific show as the cloud flowed over the mountain and exploded with color just before the sun broke the horizon.

It’s going to be a good day…

 

Cement Banks And Flooding Rivers: A Quick Look At The Geology Of The Sacramento River

Posted by bubbasuess on April 23, 2020
Posted in: Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Trinity Divide. Tagged: . 3 Comments

An awesome view of the confluence of Deer Creek and the Sacramento River.

The Upper Sacramento River is that part of the river that lies above Shasta Lake. This section of the river is vigorous and swift-flowing, a classic mountain river racing through a deep canyon. However, the Upper Sacramento River can be further subdivided into more parts. Below Lake Siskiyou, the lone impoundment on the Upper Sacramento the river travels through a lush, narrow canyon. Above the lake the river has a wider flood plain for a brief duration before it splits off into its nascent forks, the South, Middle and North Forks of the Sacramento. Each of these forks lead to headwater basins high in the Trinity Divide. Where they all converge, there is a brief but beautiful and fascinating stretch of river.

The short segment of river where the tributary forks converge is a classic Klamath Mountains river. It flows through a flat plane filled with large rocks of a multitude of colors, hinting at presence of serpentine and peridotite and the complex geologic composition of the Klamath Mountains. Yet, unlike other rivers in the area, some unusual geology is made manifest here that offers an intriguing glimpse into the river’s past. This is most evident at the confluence of Deer Creek with the Sacramento. At this spot the river’s north bank is nearly vertical for 40 to 80 feet, a contrast to the more gentle slope that characterizes the rest riverbank. In this vertical section, layers deposited by previous floods are exposed. It is an unusual opportunity to see the river’s history made plain in the landscape.

The Cement Bluff above Bluff Lake.

Some similar examples are found elsewhere in the Klamath Mountains. These formations are referred to as “cement”. Given the aggregate in each layer, I think it is an appropriate description. The two most prominent formations of this type are the Cement Banks in the Trinity Alps and the Cement Bluff in the Scott Mountains, just north of Mount Eddy. Both are far more massive than the cement formations along the Sacramento River but the one along the river is the most accessible and easiest to examine up close. The other two, larger formations are also somewhat more mysterious since they are further removed from rivers that would flood. It is likely they are the result of glaciation rather than flooding.

Regardless of how the Sacramento cement formations compare to the larger formations elsewhere in the Klamaths, the geologic layers exposed along the river are fascinating in their own right. The added benefit of the river’s presence makes this area as delightful and beautiful as it is compelling.

Just upstream from the confluence is a good place to see layers stacked on each other. The river currently flows through the broad, boulder-filled field. It has been slowly washing away the rocks and digging a deeper channel. Above boulders is another layer of gray sand and smaller rocks. These were deposited during a large flood at some point in the past. Above this is yet another layer of red soil and more rocks, though many of these are not rounded nor exhibit as much evidence of having been tumbled in the water.

 

The same layers are visible just below the confluence with Deer Creek. The boulder layer is at river level while the gray and red layers are stacked above the water. Note that just above the rapids on the left, there are some larger boulders embedded in the soil.

 

From a prominent vista point above the confluence, the layers are more obvious. The river flows through the large boulder field. The gray layer stretches out just above the water and the higher cliffs are composed of red soil.

 

The best place to look at these layers up close is on the spit of land that lies between Deer Creek and the Sacramento. It is possible to climb up to the base of a massive cut bank and examine the rocks. Upon closer investigation one finds that the rocks are very loosely packed into the sand. They are easily removed from the aggregate layer. These rocks were washed down in a large flood and settled into the sandy deposits left behind. At a later date the red layer was deposited on top of this. I have no idea if any of these layers are a product of melting glaciers or if they were all flash floods of immense proportion at some time in the past.

 

Interestingly, these layers extend a short distance up Deer Creek as well. Not far upstream from the confluence, the creek flows through a small gorge it has carved through a sandy bedrock layer. Above that is the multi-colored rocks and then the red layer. Strangely, it almost appears as though the boulder layer and the gray layer have been reversed.

Back at the Sacramento, the process of flooding and erosion continue to shape the river’s passage. Over the last decade the river has widened it channel considerably at the confluence with Deer Creek. In June of 2011 I visited the spot and observed the massive amount of runoff from hot weather and an exceptionally deep snow pack. The river was split into 5 large channels, each of which would currently be considered the river’s full flow in its main channel. When I visited this year, I noticed for the first time that the (current) main channel was much wider and a number of trees have been washed away.

The arrows mark trees that are present in both pictures. Note the base of the dead ponderosa is adjacent to the river now but was set back quite a ways from the channel in 2011.

Note that in addition to the channel being wider and many of the trees washed away, the large ponderosa has died. I am not sure if the tree drowned or the impact of rocks washing downstream damaged its roots or if some other explanation explains its demise. It remains an intriguing landmark from which to measure the growth of the river’s channel.

This section of the Sacramento is my favorite part of the entire river. The cement formations and their corresponding layers never cease to amaze me and I love investigating the ever-changing terrain. It shocks me that there are no trails in this beautiful area, though that is not necessarily a bad thing. Nonetheless, it remains an area that warrants more exploration and offers great rewards to those who take the time to venture just a short way off the beaten path.

Mount Shasta, Luminous At Sunrise

Posted by bubbasuess on April 22, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. Leave a comment

Mount Shasta glows in the early light of an April sunrise.

While the Great Hunkering continues, I distanced myself from everyone by heading up to the Castle Lake area before dawn. Based on the weather forecast, I had a hunch that there would be some interesting weather conditions for the sunrise. This certainly proved to be the case as the light began to improve and I could see the clouds in the sky. The light never quite lived up to my expectations before the sun came up but the light from the freshly risen sun cast a glow on Mount Shasta and everything around it. Bathed in glorious orange light, the mountain manifested a small but dynamic little lenticular. There had been some formations before sunrise but they disappeared before the sun broke across the horizon. This small, new one was radiant as it constantly changed shape.

While not quite the sunrise I was expecting, it was absolutely spectacular nonetheless. When I was satisfied I had seen enough (possible?) I headed up the road to Castle Lake, where there was a perfect reflection on the unfrozen part of the lake. The light of the sunrise still glowed above the lake on the upper cliffs of Castle Peak. This is a magnificent land…

Distancing Pt. IV: Mount Shasta and Waterfalls

Posted by bubbasuess on April 19, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Waterfalls. 4 Comments

The last light of Easter Sunday fades on Mount Shasta.

Another week of the Great Hunkering here in Mount Shasta and another week of getting my kids out exploring. The weather could not have been better and spring is erupting all around the foot of the mountain and it felt like winter’s shackles were thrown off once and for all so we determined to head out. One nice thing of the new regime of social distancing is that it is driving out activity to areas that we don’t normally go. We have really enjoyed rediscovering forgotten favorites or introducing new places to my wife and kids, thereby making new favorites. Aside from Mount Shasta itself, it seemed the best outings were focused on waterfalls and, it being warm and in spring, they were awesome. A gorgeous day and the roar and mist of a waterfall are among my most favorite things. All in all, it has been a great experience for my kids, for which I am thankful.

Through all of this, I have still managed to get out for a few sunrises and the conditions the last week have been gorgeous. Sunrise and sunset, it has been spectacular. There was even a very nice, very resilient lenticular during Easter that lasted for a couple days. However, after several great days spent outside, the inevitable return to Earth was necessitated and we finally turned our attention to spring cleaning that demands attention. Ho hum.

The waterfalls were a real highlight. I can’t say enough about how edifying it was to enjoy them with great weather after the long winter. Naturally, Burney Falls is famous but the other two are almost entirely unknown, save for a few rock climbers and Castle Crags savants. I think some video might help share the experience!

We call this one “Gerber Falls”. In my mind, nothing beats running water over granite.

This one we dubbed “Grotto Falls. This is only the lower tier. It’s a lot taller than it looks.

Burney Falls needs no introduction. You can see my kids wandering around at the bottom of the screen.

After we went to Burney Falls, we had lunch along nearby Hat Creek. While there, we had the amazing fortune to watch river otters swimming in the water while one of them kept scampering up onto the steep slope above the creek. My kids (and wife) were enthralled!

Finally, Mount Shasta has been magnificent the past week. Excellent sunrises and sunsets and the mountains around the great volcano are snowy but starting to awaken after the winter slumber. It is sublime.

The Remarkable Resilience Of Mount Shasta’s Easter Lenticular

Posted by bubbasuess on April 14, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Lenticular Clouds, Mount Shasta. 2 Comments

The lenticular begins to reform over Mount Shasta.

This past Easter the sky over Mount Shasta saw some significant meteorological activity that yielded two spectacular sunsets and a beautiful sunrise. The clouds throughout the area were impressive, filing the sky with a variety of shapes and patterns. However, it was the presence of a persistent lenticular southeast of the mountain that proved to be the real highlight. The cloud was not present on Saturday until sunset but manifested just as the sunlight faded. It was present again in the morning, forming a nice stack not far from the summit of Mount Shasta. The disk lasted until midday when all the clouds in the sky dissipated completely. It looked as though that would be the end of the show, since no clouds appeared throughout the afternoon. However, about an hour before sunset a host of new clouds sailed in from the west, filling the sky and heralding another magnificent sunset. At first it seemed like this was unconnected with the previous weather system from Easter morning. This assumption was in error and, just as the sun was sinking down toward the horizon, the lenticular reformed, in the same spot it had occupied the previous night. It was a dramatic and memorable sunset, with awesome clouds and fantastic color!

It is fascinating how the cloud could persist in the same spot for so long. While most lenticulars tend tend to be fleeting, this one proved to be resilient, forming, dissipating and then reforming once again. It was certainly a remarkable Easter spectacle!

Click to enlarge:

Distancing Pt. III: Another Week Around Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on April 8, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 1 Comment

Spring alpenglow on Mount Shasta.

The last week here in Mount Shasta has been an odd brew of beautiful, boring and wintry conditions. We had some clear, warm days followed by some rain and snow. It never got cold enough for the snow to accumulate more than a couple of inches but the precipitation coming hot on the heals of a couple gorgeous days made things seem considerably drearier than they really were. Several times I headed out thinking I was going to get a good lenticular image but I was repeatedly skunked all week. They formed a few times, but never anything grand. It was frustrating but I was glad to be able to get out and capture some images of the mountain nonethless.

All of this has, of course, been in the midst of the social distancing we find ourselves in. My wife and I have always homeschooled our kids so very little has actually changed for us, since her work is considered “essential”. While we have kept our distance from friends, family and such, we have continued to take the kids out on hikes. If anything has changed, we have focused our trips out on areas that are highly unlikely to see other people and thus far that has certainly been the case. They never tire of getting outside and exploring and are glad for the coming of spring and the increased frequency of the trips and the chance to enjoy this amazing, if benighted, world.

My youngest son marvels at the mysterious “Tangle Tree”. This ponderosa pine is actually alive!

The weather itself was hit or miss during the week. The end of last week was gorgeous and the kids thrived in the warm, sunny spring weather. We had some great hikes before the weather turned. The weekend was snowy (hopefully for the last time this winter) and then the temperatures gradually climbed again. The clouds have been really hit or miss. I kept thinking we were going to get a great lenticular but, although some small ones formed, nothing was ever able to quite pull itself together. I think I am getting too picky and I ought to be grateful to just see the mountain (I am, but I am still picky!).

In the end, it was a good week and I am glad to see us finally moving into a sustained period of warm spring weather. The current forecast has highs in the 60’s for at least the next 10 days. We’ll see what comes next! I pray that everyone continues to endure and thrive through these unusual circumstances. I suspect we are nearing the end of this!

Mount Shasta Social Distancing Hikes Part I: Waterfalls

Posted by bubbasuess on April 4, 2020
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Waterfalls. 3 Comments

Faery Falls, in lush Ney Springs Canyon.

We find ourselves in a strange limbo, quarantined and socially distant, for the sake of the community keeping our distance from our families, friends and neighbors. These certainly are strange days. However, in a stroke of good fortune, we are still able to spend some time outdoors and on the trail, so long as we maintain the necessary separation from others. It may be that time outside and on the trail may be more essential to our well being than ever, given how much time we are forced to spend at home. This being the case, the foot of Mount Shasta is a good place to be stuck, with great beauty and a plethora of trails. Yet even in that, we are in a state of limbo. The winter is passed, warmer days draw nigh but the mountain trails remain buried in snow. For the time being, the lower elevation trails will have to do.

Typically, at this point I do a spring hiking round up, collecting all the trails into one post and highlighting what is open at the time. Given the unusual circumstances we are currently in, it seems more appropriate (and interesting) to divide things up and devote a little more attention to opportunities to get out. With the wetter we have had recently, waterfall hikes seem to be a good place to start. It is interesting to note that most of the lower-elevation waterfalls, which are the most readily accessible this time of year, are generally located to the south of Mount Shasta.

 

Click to enlarge map. Waterfalls accessible by trail marked with red stars.

McCloud River Falls

Any discussion of Mount Shasta area waterfalls naturally begins with the trio on the McCloud River. This is the premier waterfall destination for the region. The proximity of the three falls, the volume of water going over the precipice and the distinctive appearance of each of the cataracts makes the entire experience difficult to beat. Add to the natural beauty the ease of accessing them, whether by car or along the McCloud River Trail and this is an unbeatable waterfall hike. If there is a drawback, it is the falls’ popularity. Fortunately for hikers, most people visit these waterfalls by car, leaving the trails relatively uncrowded.

Read the trail description here.

Squaw Valley Creek Falls

Squaw Valley Creek Falls

The hike along Squaw Valley Creek is not one that is known for waterfalls. Rather it is the wild creek itself, beautiful, remote forest and the rocky gorges along the first 0.3 miles of the trail that attract hikers. However, hidden along the trail, about 1.5 miles from the trailhead, the creek takes a 10 foot plunge of a bedrock escarpment. It isn’t a huge waterfall but coupled with the lovely hike through the canyon, it makes a great destination. For hikers who are interested in longer hikes, the falls make a good highlight near the end of an 8 mile loop that includes a section of the Pacific Crest Trail and a two mile decent down Bear Trap Creek on a dirt road. The road is gated and sees little travel and passes through one of the densest forest canopies I have seen in the Mount Shasta area.

Read the trail description here.

Hedge Creek Falls

Hedge Creek Falls

Perhaps the easiest Mount Shasta area waterfall to reach, Hedge Creek Falls is nonetheless an area classic. Unfortunately, ease of access means it is not the greatest destination for an isolated hike. Nonetheless, morning and evening see few people at the falls and it is well worth visiting. In some ways it reminds me of waterfalls in the Ozarks and other limestone-based destinations, where the water has worn away some of the cliff to produce a cave behind the falls. This is certainly one of the highlights of Hedge Creek Falls, since the trial passes behind the cataract and continues on to an overlook above the Sacramento River. After a rain, when the falls are really going is a great time to experience its power potential. This will soon be the most popular trail in the region, once the trail from the lookout to nearby Mossbrae Falls is completed!

Read the trail description here.

Faery Falls

Faery Falls at high water.

In many ways, Faery Falls is part of a greater whole. The entire area seems to exude a magic that the waterfall’s name implies. Near the falls are the ruins of the old Ney Springs resort. Not much is left standing but a well, some walls and a fountain but the site oozes mystery. Running past it is the highlight, which is Ney Springs Creek. Choked with house-sized boulders and numerous smaller cataracts, this one of the prettier creeks in the Mount Shasta area. The centerpiece is, of course, the falls. They are tucked back into a mossy grotto and thunder 40 feet down the cliff. The narrow space means you are likely to get heavily misted when there is a fair amount of water flowing in the creek. During the wet season Faery Falls splits into two wide drops that fan out over the rocks. It’s an awesome sight.

Read the trail description here.

Burstarse Falls

Burstarse Falls

More than any other water waterfall besides the McCloud Falls, Burstarse Creek offers more falling water for the effort. Not only is Burstarse Falls an excellent waterfall on its own, but Lower Burstarse Falls is a worthy destination on its on. Indeed, many hikers get to the lower falls and believe they have made it to the main attraction and then leave satisfied with what they have seen. In addition to the two main falls, there are numerous cascades and smaller waterfalls along the creek. Burstarse Falls itself is an 80 foot giant, surging off of a large granite cliff in the Castle Crags. Accessing the main falls is a little challenging since there is only a faint trail leading through a narrow slot canyon but with a little care it is easy enough even for children. It is most definitely worth the effort.

Read the trail description here.

Root Creek Falls

Castle Dome and Root Creek Falls

While Burstarse Falls might offer a number of cataracts for the effort, Root Creek Falls represents the opposite. There is almost no running water at all along the hike until the last 0.2 mile but the spectacle at the end is unsurpassed by any other in the Mount Shasta area this time of year. Root Creek Falls is like a slice of Yosemite splendor deposited here at the foot of Mount Shasta. The falls are a series of plunges over granite cliffs, totaling over 100 feet in height. The creek thunders from cascade to cascade through an increasingly narrow granite gorge. The falls alone are a grand sight but the scene is crowned by the mighty fang of Castle Dome jutting up into the sky directly above the falls. It really does seem like a vision from the renowned halls of Yosemite. The hike to Root Creek varies in length depending on trailhead but neither option is difficult and the reward at the end is magnificent.

Read the trail description here.

Whitney Falls

A dry Whitney Falls in spring.

It almost seems inappropriate to include Whitney Falls in this list of springtime waterfalls. It is more than likely that the falls will not be flowing during the spring. Despite the melting snow on the north side of Mount Shasta, most of the thaw runoff soaks into the porous volcanic terrain. Instead, this waterfall is fed in the summer by the melting of the massive Whitney Glacier. However, of all the main trails through the Mount Shasta Wilderness, the hike to Whitney Falls is the lowest and most readily accessible in the spring. A light winter means the trail could easily be open sometime in April. While the falls may be dry at that time, the hike itself remains a worthy one, with views of Mount Shasta, lava flows, deep canyons and far to the north across Shasta Valley and into Oregon. It is definitely a worthy hike, whether the falls are running now or not.

Read the trail description here.