Hike Mt. Shasta

A favorite spot: Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls as seen from the lower reaches of Yosemite Creek.

I love writing about the various aspects of mountains, wilderness, hiking and all the topics that relate to those things. I think this is evident in the variety of things that I address when writing about the Mount Shasta area and I hope that is it also evident in what I have written about Yosemite. I have never written much about my personal history or what adventures I have had on a regular basis (though I like posting images of my kids!). The focus of my writing has, quite intentionally, been on the land. However, with Yosemite it is hard for me to completely separate the personal from the places and that is because it has been a part of my family’s history, my history, for generations. I want to deviate a little from my avoidance and talk about a few experiences that have happened to me (or in some way relates to me) in Yosemite.

The obvious start to this is with my parents. Both of my parents have grown up camping in Yosemite. The first visit I know of by my parents was in 1946. My grandfather had been wounded in World War 2 during the Battle Of Aachen and spent a year and a half convalescing in England. When he returned home to Lodi, he packed my grandmother and my dad, who was 4, and headed up to Yosemite. The began a regular practice of camping in Yosemite, at least annually, but typically multiple times per year. The family spot was always Camp 11 (now known as Upper Pines) but places along Tioga Road, like the decommissioned campground Smoky Jack, were also favorites. Meanwhile, my mom and her family also had a tradition of camping in Yosemite, which for them was the same week in July each year. They generally camped in Camp 7 (which was later renamed Lower River before being obliterated in the 1997 flood. The park made the decision not to rebuild it at that time.) and were a part of a large church group that gathered each summer.

Things continued happily for each family until July, 1963. My dad and his younger brother left Happy Isles on a backpacking trip to Vogelsang. At the same time, my mom and her best friend hit the trail to climb Half Dome. Near Nevada Falls they met on the trail, started talking, and at some point along the way, my dad convinced his brother to ditch Vogelsang and head to the top of Half Dome with my mom and her friend. Apparently they hit it off immediately and were married a year later.

My parents are on the left, on the summit of Half Dome, the day they met.

Eventually my older brother and I joined into the family tradition, as did numerous cousins. We were always there the same week each summer, as well as numerous day trips and other camping trips to both the Valley and other parts of the park. However, by the time I had arrived, the family had migrated to the Housekeeping camp. My mom’s parents were always the head of the main week in July, which was still a part of the annual church group gathering. There was always fishing (especially on the South Fork of the Tuolumne and Illilouette Creek), volleyball on the beach and plenty of hiking and rock scrambling. One event that was a highlight was the “weenie boil” on Cathedral Beach. All the cousins, led by my older brother, who was the oldest, would raft down the river from the Horse Stables to Cathedral Beach. We would be on the river all day and, when we arrived at the beach, it was just in time to have dinner, which would be prepared by my grandparents.

Some of my cousins and I on the Merced, at Housekeeping. My grandmother made us all capes. I’m in the hat.

When I turned six, my parents took me on my first backpacking trip. The destination was my dad’s favorite fishing hole up on Mount Hoffmann. My dad and brother fished like crazy while at basecamp my mom read and I climbed on rocks and tended a small tree growing out of a crack in the granite. I watered it multiple times per day and put more soil around it and tried to help it out as best I could. It was on that trip that I first learned that I did not enjoy fishing, a declaration that stands to this day (my oldest son has decided he does like fishing, a declaration that pleases my father greatly). However, it was then, perhaps, that I first got an inkling that I loved the wilderness.

My family on my first backpacking trip. All I had in my backpack was my sleeping bag.

My brother and I were always ambitious in our hiking plans. We naturally tackled Half Dome, making numerous ascents of the great dome. We struck out in other directions. Day hikes to Waterwheel Falls, combining the Four Mile and Pohono Trails for an epic traverse of the south rim of the Valley, or climbing up Yosemite Falls or Indian Canyon and coming down the Snow Creek Trail were the kind of things we liked to tackle. Sometimes we regretted it afterwards and would spend the next day in the river recuperating. A favorite method for this was putting on life preservers and floating the river, sans raft. We found that we were endlessly creative in finding some new ledge to scramble up to or waterfall to climb to the base of. Yosemite was our grand inspiration.

My brother at Roosevelt Point on one of our hikes along the Pohono Trail.

Through the years, we have continued to return to Yosemite. My brother went to the Naval Academy and spent 21 years on active duty. His presence came and went, depending on where he was stationed and what was happening in the world. Whenever he got the chance, he was always in Yosemite. For the rest of my family, we continued on, returning to the park with regularity. My brother finally retired and returned to California. We both had families and our wives and children have joined the tradition, continuing the annual pilgrimage to Yosemite. Now my parents are the grandparents and they thrive watching their grandchildren growing up just as they and my brother and I did.

Grandparenting, Yosemite style.

I can say unequivocally that without the foundation of experience that I built in Yosemite, Hike Mt Shasta would never have existed. The yearning to drink in the beauty of Yosemite, the drive to hit the trail, the desire to explore and discover place left off the map were all fruit of the seeds planted in Yosemite. When I moved to Texas for graduate school, I my love for mountains and wilderness was rekindled and compelled me to explore and find new places to immerse myself. While I grew to love many new places, it was always to Yosemite my heart longed to return. It to carry the place with me that I sought to hold onto the wilderness in written word and captured image. What began as an effort to explore through the pen while trapped in school evolved into this website. While it is focused on Mount Shasta, and a more worthy subject is difficult to find, it has always been Yosemite that has been the beating heart that has continued to inspire me to write. In this small but significant way, Yosemite has always been present in this site. My Yosemite Week musings is simply an expression of this.

I appreciate everyone who has journeyed through Yosemite this week. It has been a labor of love and a lot of fun thinking about what to write about. I think everyone ought to be relieved that I did not write a post on my investigation of which old campgrounds bore which numbers (i.e. the infamous Camp 4). Digging into this history of places is a hobby of mine (I think this might come out in many of my articles on the Mount Shasta area) and the human history of Yosemite is layered, fascinating and entertaining. Hopefully these posts have been inspiring and entertaining as well. I am always eager to share my love for mountains, the wilderness and especially Yosemite. I am sure it is equally special to many many others as well.

Granite spires of the Cathedral Range tower of the Tuolumne River.

I love all the trails in Yosemite (except the climb out of Pate Valley. I do not like that trail.) but it turns out that my two favorite spots in the park are not located on official trails. There are some use trails and unofficial paths but both spots are off the main flow of hikers in Yosemite. While that is certainly a positive feature, that is not the main reason I cherish these two places. It is because they capture the essence and best qualities of the two best parts of Yosemite. One is a staggering view of Yosemite Valley while the other is along a less traveled part of the Tuolumne River, where the water flows over granite slabs and troughs. These two spots are probably my most favorite places on earth.

If I had to pick one of the two, my favorite would be a special vantage point of Yosemite Valley. Accessed from the valley floor and located at the base of a beautiful waterfall, there are no trails to this area but it is easy to access nonetheless. The view, however, is immense, taking in all the northern cliffs from Eagle Peak to Washington Column. Yosemite Falls (my personal favorite) is prominently visible from here. Beyond Washington Column the view continues, penetrating deep into Tenaya Canyon, past Mount Watkins and all the way to Clouds Rest. Above this scene presides Half Dome, the monarch of the Valley. This can all be enjoyed while listening to the crash of the waterfall and enjoying the mist as the water hits the rocks. From here, all the roads and buildings of the valley disappear in the trees and it is like being transported back in time, seeing the valley as it might have appeared to John Muir.

My other favorite spot is in the Yosemite high country, near Tuolumne Meadows. This area is not accessed by any official trails but a pleasant use trail leads easily to it. This area is a like a delightful fountain (I know this is a ludicrous comparison, but it sometimes reminds me of the Forth Worth Water Gardens!) where the water flows this way and that, from one channel to another, falling over beautiful cataracts along the way. Some of the water cascades, some free falls, on other areas it spreads out like a then veneer over a granite slab. It is a distilled version of all the best parts of the Tuolumne, especially the river’s spectacular passage into the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, from above Glen Aulin down to Waterwheel Falls. Over all of this, towers of the Cathedral Range, including Johnson Peak, Unicorn Peak, the Cockscomb and Cathedral Peak are all prominently visible. It is a glorious slice of Tuolumne High Sierra.

Sunset over the Minarets, once a part of Yosemite.

It seems likely that whenever Yosemite is thought of today, we assume that it exists now as if it were established that way. The boundaries are what they always have been and the park encompasses all the landmarks that we associate with the park. However, that is most definitely not the case. The park has actually changed its shape considerably since it was founded and significant tracts of land were both added and subtracted to the park’s area. Many of the areas that were once a part of Yosemite, yet are no longer, would likely be iconic landmarks of the national park today. They are every bit as beautiful as the rest of the park but are no longer of it. They could be considered Yosemite lost.

Yosemite National Park was established by congress in 1890. At the time of the historic event, Yosemite Valley and the more southerly Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias had already been deeded over to the state of California for protection by President Abraham Lincoln in 1864. The land of these grants was somewhat arbitrarily established, especially the area containing Yosemite Valley. To determine the boundary of what was deeded to the state, the federal government simply established lines between peaks and other prominent points like the Merced River. At the time, with little survey work and lacking accurate maps, this was the easiest way to establish borders.

When the national park was created in 1890, times had changed and most of the land west of the crest of the Sierra Nevada had been surveyed. Consequently the boundaries were once again established arbitrarily but on the basis of survey lines. When surveying takes place, land is divided up into sections, which consist of 1 square mile of land. These are then grouped into townships, which are 36 sections grouped in squares, that have 6 miles on each side. When the park boundaries were laid out during the legislative process, it consisted of 30 townships surrounding the stated controlled land of Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove. However, much of the land on the east side of the Sierra Nevada crest had not been surveyed. Lower down, closer to settlements on the east side of the range, the land had been surveyed. Thus, for good measure, all the unsurveyed land between the crest and the mapped areas lower down were included in Yosemite National Park.

Historic map of Yosemite’s early boundaries. The 1864 grants are in green. The original park boundaries are marked by the faint yellow line. The new boundaries after the 1906 realignment are in brown. Zoom in on this map. There is a lot of great detail.

After the park was established, federal land administration continued to evolve. It soon became doctrine that administrative divisions were best created along river watershed lines. In many areas with larger mountain regions, this allowed lands to be accessed by ranger more feasibly and it unified management programs for entire watersheds, rather than having one part of a river managed one way while downstream there may be a different agenda. This posed problems for Yosemite. Although the entire headwaters of the Merced were in the park, the northern portions of the Tuolumne River watershed were haphazardly left out. Even more complicated, the North and Middle Forks of the San Joaquin River were included in Yosemite. Much of this land, especially the region of the Middle Fork was only realistically accessed from the Mammoth area on the east side.

It was decided that that park’s boundaries needed to be realigned to fit into the new doctrine of watershed management. Thus, in 1906 the park boundaries were altered, the new limits were being reckoned along the crest of the Sierra Nevada in the east and the the divides between the Tuolumne and Stanislaus Rivers in the north and the Merced and San Joaquin Rivers in the south. This gives Yosemite a much more organic appearance when looking on the map. Equally important, Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove were repossessed by the federal government and added to the national park. Further adjustments were later made on the western edges of the park but this significant action permanently reset Yosemite.

Since most the land added to the park is remote wilderness in the north, it did little to alter the experience of most visitors to Yosemite. The valley remained the epicenter of the Yosemite experience and it was now firmly ensconced with the park, both geographically and administratively. However, substantial tracts of land east of the Sierra crest were now lost to Yosemite. All of this land is rugged, mountain wilderness but some of it is among the most spectacular alpine country in America and has gone on to achieve iconic status on its own terms. It is fascinating to think what the public conception of Yosemite would be today if this land had remained within the park. Images that could come to mind when the fabled name of Yosemite is uttered could include Half Dome, Yosemite Falls and Thousand Island Lake or Mount Ritter. Rainbow Falls would take its rightful place within the pantheon of great Yosemite Cataracts. Parker Lake would be a popular hike much like the hike to Cathedral Lakes. The human geography of the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada would look much, much different than it now does.

So what does this lost Yosemite look like? What could have been a part of the famed park? They are still explored, enjoyed and admired, but likely much of it is far less known than if it were part of the park. Thankfully, it is now all preserved in the Hoover and Ansel Adams Wilderness Areas. The following are some examples of the lost Yosemite.

Green Lakes Basin, Hoover Wilderness

While the largest lakes of the Green Lakes Basin, including Green and East Lakes are outside the arbitrary 1890 park boundaries, the Hoover Lakes are in the park. The lakes are not large but the basin, located between Dunderberg and Epidote Peaks, is spectacular.

Virginia Lakes Basin, Hoover Wilderness

Once again, the random lines of the 1890 park left cut a lake basin in half. Virginia Lake itself is left out but Blue Lake and some of the smaller lakes higher up in the basin are included. This area has beautiful aspen stands and rugged peaks. An good trail network exists here and connects to the Hoover Lakes in the adjoining lake basin. With good road access, it would be easy to see this area well developed by the national park, drawing far more attention than it currently gets.

Lundy Canyon, Hoover Wilderness

Lundy Canyon is one of the most spectacular chasms in the Eastern Sierra. Loaded with waterfalls, soaring cliffs and spectacular fall color, it would be an iconic destination within Yosemite. Instead, while increasingly popular, its name is not well known outside of fans of hiking and aspens in the autumn. The adjacent 20 Lakes Basin was also included in the 1890 park. The hike from Lundy Canyon to the lake basin, once the one of the most spectacular trails in the Sierra (a rockslide in 2006 wiped out a critical section of trail) would no doubt be a Yosemite classic.

Sardine Lakes, Ansel Adams Wilderness

With incredible views down to Mono Lake, the Sardine Lakes are practically already a part of Yosemite. They lie just feet outside the current park boundary, just below Mono Pass. The best way to hike to them is from Tioga Road and make a lollipop that includes pastoral Spillway Lake.

Parker Lake, Ansel Adams Wilderness

One of the most distinctive and spectacular lakes in the Sierra Nevada, Parker Lake would no doubt be a favorite destination in Yosemite. Parker Lake is unusual because it is a large lake that sits at the foot of the eastern Sierra escarpment, rather than higher up in the range, similar to famed Convict Lake. This beautiful spot was not spared the random boundary lines. The easternmost tip of the lake was left out of the park.

Thousand Island Lake and the Ritter Range, Ansel Adams Wildereness

The Ritter Range is one of the most spectacular slices of mountain scenery you will find. It is simply sublime. If it had been left in the park, it would be the third hub of a Yosemite Triad: the Valley, Tuolumne Meadows and the Ritter Range. While the grand towers of Ritter and Banner are the obvious epicenters, Thousand Island Lake would no doubt be a prime draw. It is simply one of the most beautiful places on earth.

The Ritter Range (in general), Ansel Adams Wilderness

The Ritter Range is a huge area and most of it falls within the 1890 Yosemite boundaries. Surrounding Ritter and Banner are plenty of other alpine lakes (including massive Garnet Lake, nearly the equal of Thousand Island Lake) and other alpine delights. Meadows, waterfalls, rocky expanses and all the best features of the wild mountains define this area.

The Minarets, Ansel Adams Wilderness

Nearly as high as Ritter and Banner and immediately south of the two peaks, the Minarets are a collection rugged spires thrusting skyward along a long divide between the North and Middle Forks of the San Joaquin. They are among the grandest mountain towers in the Sierra Nevada. It is hard to think of them not being more famous than they already are if they were the Yosemite Minarets!

Middle Fork of the San Joaquin, Ansel Adams Wilderness

Running through a long, deep canyon, the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River flows out of Thousand Island Lake and collects all the waters from the east side of the Ritter Range. The is the main headwaters fork of the second largest and longest river in California. The river is one of the Sierra Nevada’s greats and would add a third major waterway to Yosemite.

Devils Postpile, Devils Postpile National Monument

When Yosemite was realigned, and Devils Postpile was stricken from the park, it was clear to the federal government that this special feature needed further protection. Within five years the national monument was established and the National Park Service took control following its creation in 1916. Consequently, this area has had a national park “vibe” all along and it is easy to imagine it as part of Yosemite.

Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile National Monument

Not as tall as the giant waterfalls of Yosemite Valley but lacking nothing in terms of beauty, Rainbow Falls is a jewel along the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin. It, along with nearby Lower Falls are already popular hikes but would no doubt be even more so if they were part of Yosemite.

The Ritter Range does not need to be Yosemite to be appreciated!

In the end, I am certainly not advocating that Yosemite kept its original boundaries. On the contrary, I think the park’s current boundaries are sound and fit with modern administrative decisions that define the divisions of federal land. Still, it is fascinating to think how being in a national park might change the areas that were stricken from the park. They would all likely receive far more traffic than they do. Even though the Ritter Range is already a popular destination, if the Yosemite name were attached to it, it would be far busier. I am glad that these areas are left to their own devices, to be appreciated on their own terms and to be enjoyed by the hikers who explore them.