Across America: From Mount Shasta To Indiana And Back

Posted by bubbasuess on July 14, 2019
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta. Tagged: , . 3 Comments

A western icon: Devils Tower in northeast Wyoming.

It’s been nearly a week since my family and I returned from our incredible roadtrip across America. We were all exhausted after this magnificent trip and it has taken a few days to return to our Mount Shasta equilibrium but having done so I have finally been able to digest just how much we saw in did in our long but all-too-short trip. To close this chapter, I want to write a post to commemorate this experience and possibly use it as a jumping off point on some future posts of a more philosophic nature.

In terms of destination, the goal of the trip was to visit family and friends in Colorado, Indiana and Wisconsin. This served as a useful motivator to drag our three kids 3/4’s of the way across the country. In deeper purpose, we wanted them to get a sense of how vast America is, how people in other parts of the country live, and how diverse this majestic land really is. On all three accounts, I believe we accomplished this in spades.

To review a trip of this scope, I think the easiest way is to post a bunch of images of the kids in action at various places along the way, along with a short description. After that I will have some other images to use as a platform to expand upon a few of the memorable places and events along the way. I hope that this gives some feel of how we fared and that it is, even in some small part, a vicarious journey across America. Also, for those of you who know my wife, I swiped a few of her images for this gallery!

Click to enlarge:

The first leg of our trip took us across the Loneliest Road in America to Great Basin National Park. From there it was off to Moab, Utah. If I wasn’t living in Northern California, this would be my home (somehow, someway). It had been a few years since I had been there and was shocked how much it had grown. For my kids, this was a major milestone. They have heard me extolling its virtues their entire lives. Now they got to experience it themselves.

Moab did not disappoint them and it remains one of the high points of the trip. Our time there was full, as we hit both Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, as well as some other favorites amidst the red sandstone. My older son and I, both early risers, did a sunrise in each of the national parks. The second one, in Arches, was especially memorable for me, as I photographed my son in the North Window (enlarge the image to see him on the left side of the arch). He cried when we left, a feeling I remember sharing at his age when my family would leave Yosemite.

From there, it was across the Rockies and then the Great Plains, eventually making our way to St. Louis. I had fairly low expectations for the Gateway Arch but it seemed like a good place to stop so the kids could see the Mississippi River. The river was flooding, as the whole promenade along the bank was under several feet of water. The real highlight, however, was the visitor center beneath the arch, which was focused on the westward expansion of the United States. This whole complex was recently remodeled and the new museum is fantastic. The whole family was enthralled by many of the displays and we could have spent far more than the scant hour we had allotted to it. We had no idea how well done and engaging it would be.

Finally, we arrived in Indiana, our easternmost state on this trip. In Indianapolis we ate dinner at the Mug N Bun, our favorite meal of the trip. Breaded pork tenderloins our a mainstay in Indiana and it was a goal to enjoy some. This diner is classic Americana and visiting it is a moral imperative to anyone who finds themselves in the area!

Further north in Indiana my son and I once again rose early to head to the Seven Pillars of the Mississenawa River. While heading there, we caught a gorgeous sunrise on the Wabash River.

After the sunrise, we arrived at the Mississenawa and walked out to the banks where we could observe the Seven Pillars. This was the furthest point east of the trip and a surprisingly beautiful place. The limestone columns that made up the far bank of the river were fascinating and made a great backdrop to the steadily flowing river. These kinds of places of more subtle beauty have been on my mind more and more. Living in the shadow of a mountain like Mount Shasta tends to desensitize one to other aspects of Creation that are worthy of appreciation. This is especially so for kids like mine, who know nothing but the grandeur of the mountain. It was good for my son to ponder a place like Seven Pillars and recognize that it too deserves to be enjoyed.

From Indiana we headed up to my sister-in-law’s house in Wisconsin, just north of Milwaukee. It was a rich family time and a great break from being on the road. We enjoyed our stay immensely. My brother-in-law took my kids out to the lake behind their house and got them all fishing. I have neglected to take my kids fishing, as I have never enjoyed it. My kids, however, took to it instantly and are clamoring to go here in Shasta. During our stay, I got up alone one morning and headed out to Lake Michigan for the sunrise. I had not anticipated the amount of wildlife on the lakeshore but enjoyed it nonetheless. The highlight came when a deer appeared,  galloping along the beach. I whistled at it and we met each other’s eyes for a bit before it continued sprinting down the lakeshore.

Eventually it was time to leave and begin the journey back to Mount Shasta. The drive from Wisconsin to Badlands National Park was the longest single day’s drive of the trip. Though hot and humid on the East River side of South Dakota, West River was being submerged in what turned out to be a thunderstorm of seemingly Biblical proportions. We had hoped we would get a lightning storm at some point on the trip but we had not anticipated anything quite like this. We wimped out and got a hotel room for the night rather than camp but decided to push a little past the town we were to stay in and see how things looked at the Badlands. About halfway through the 15 minute drive to the park, the sky was ripped open and the rain fell so hard that visibility was reduced to literal zero. I could not see past the front of our van. We limped off the road at a rest stop and waited for the storm to slacken. Lightning crashed all around us and the din was incredible. Never having experienced the like, the kids were not impressed.

To get back to our hotel, we had to go all the way to the Badlands exit and turn around. Upon our arrival, the sun just happened to start slipping beneath the storm clouds as it was setting. For a precious few minutes, South Dakota was aglow in the sinking sun even as the rain continued to fall, the wind whipped us and lightning crashed around the plains. Inspired by this gorgeous display, we sped into Badlands to the first (and best, in my opinion) overlook. I hopped out of the van, set up my camera and got one quick image. It was my favorite of the trip.

Thankfully the storm passed and the next morning was gorgeous at the Badlands. We explored the park and the Black Hills before continuing on to Devil Tower in Wyoming. Throughout western South Dakota, the plains were glowing with yellow flowers in the grasses. Wyoming was no different and the yellow fields were a stupendous contrast to the red earth and green trees of the region. The same was true at Devils Tower:

This whole area was one of our favorites of the trip. The beauty of the Plains reached their apex here, the vastness of the landscape moved me and it has been a fixture in my mind since passing through it. I am already plotting my return.

We arrived at Devils Tower on the 4th of July. The whole community was infused with a festival atmosphere but another round of severe thunderstorms was predicted. We checked out the tower and then headed to camp, managing to pitch our tent just as the storm really started in earnest. Lightning crashed all around is once again and the wind was furious. However, this was not to be the only pyrotechnics. The fireworks display went on as planned in spite of the storm. We sat in our tent, the rain nearly deafening, and watched out the window as lightning and fireworks alternated in lighting up the sky. It was the most memorable Independence Day I have ever had.

We eventually made it across Wyoming and arrived in Yellowstone. It was a great time, viewing the wildlife (especially the bison!), wondering at the geothermal features and marveling at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. It was a few more days until we reached home, tired and satisfied. Our Odyessean journey was completed. For my kids, their horizons were extended and their appreciation for their home, for Mount Shasta was greatly enhanced. For my wife and I, it was a fantastic adventure of lifelong memories for our family.

I can’t wait for our next one. We’re headed to Yosemite in a week.

 

Solstice Sunrise / Why I Am Excited To Drive Across The Plains

Posted by bubbasuess on June 21, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. Tagged: , , . 4 Comments

Sunrise on Mount Shasta on the summer solstice.

No doubt everyone is aware that today is the summer solstice. I was up early once again so I headed out to watch the sunrise on Mount Shasta one more time before heading east on my family’s roadtrip. With no clouds in the sky to create an interesting scene above the shadow-cloaked west side of the mountain, the eastern side was the natural place to go. I didn’t have time to swing all the way around to the east before the sun came up but I did make it to the south side, where i could see the crags of Sargents Ridge catching the morning light. There was not a lot of color but there was plenty of snow. Rime ice on the summit and the blue ice of the Konwakiton Glacier were also visible. I’ll catch one more sunrise on the mountain tomorrow, but this time it will be from the PCT vista point on the Hat Creek Rim while on our way east to catch Highway 50 across Nevada.

Speaking of snow, this is how the Old Ski Bowl looked on the solstice. There is a heap of snow still up there. I would not be surprised if the road up there doesn’t open until early August. Nonetheless, whoever hikes up to the bowl when that snow starts melting in earnest is in for a treat!

Aside from the solstice sunrise, I wanted to spend a few moments considering my anticipation of driving my family across the plains. Even though we will be visiting several national parks and other spectacular spots and making a few crossings of the Rockies, one of the things I am most excited about on this trip is driving my family across the Great Plains. 15 years ago I would never have thought I could make such a claim but it is true. This is rooted in my time in Texas and exposure to different kinds of beauty. I have written about this a little bit but for the last few years it is a theme I have wanted to expand on but never seem to have the mental energy to sit down and really do my thoughts justice. Nonetheless, the subject of beauty and where and what it looks like is something I am keenly interested in. I am particularly keen on the intangibles like how wildness alters one’s perception of what is and is not beautiful.

The Wichita Mountains, an island of rugged terrain in the sea of the High Plains.

Another feature of the plains that I have great affection for is the seemingly “hidden” place of surprising topography. These features are principally buttes and canyons but there are also punctuated plutons like Vedauwoo and the Wichita Mountains. The latter is particularly dear to my heart, as it was my refuge during my four year exile to Dallas. Despite my acquired affinity for the vast expanses at the center of our country, I was surprised at how few images I have collected. Most of the ones I do have are from plains canyons like the Palo Duro or Mills Canyon in New Mexico. Those places, rightly thought of as “mountains in reverse” are epic not just for their intrinsic beauty but also for the sudden and unexpected nature of their advent as one move across the horizontal yellow.

Hopefully, when I return I will have a few more images of the great prairie that lies at the heart of our nation. I know I appreciate them more now and will be more deliberate in capturing their beauty when the opportunity arises. Of course, there will be plenty of other places like Moab and the Beartooth Mountains, places of immense beauty, on our trip. I am excited to have the opportunity to expose my kids to the great world with which we have been gifted and blessed with.

Gazing Into The Heart Of Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on June 17, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Meadows, Mount Shasta. Tagged: , . Leave a comment

Sunrise from the muddy meadow. 

A couple of days ago I go up before 5AM in order to catch the sunrise. Normally if I don’t see any interesting clouds on the mountain I will stay in bed but this time I planned to go to Mud Creek Meadow, which I prefer to call to Konwakiton Meadow (Konwakiton meaning ‘muddy’ in Wintu). The meadow has a fantastic view of Mount Shasta. This particular perspective is appealing for a couple of reasons. First, it is one of the few perspectives from which Shastina is not visible. Obviously I have nothing against Mount Shasta’s awesome secondary cone. However, Shastina does have a tendency to strike Mount Shasta’s profile into a particular form balance. It is a nice change of pace to view Mount Shasta as a solitary cone possessing simple lines climbing inexorably towards the summit. The best such view, and the one the looks the least “Mount Shasta” is from Ash Creek Butte but the one from Konwakiton is quite pleasing as well. The second reason the view from the meadow is excellent is due to the opportunity it presents to examine the magnificent features found in Mount Shasta’s Mud Creek basin.

Geologists believe that Mud Creek Basin is cut into “proto Mount Shasta”, the earliest parts of the mountain as we know it. Of the four major cones that form Mount Shasta, the Sargents Ridge Cone is the oldest. The flanks of the cone have been excavated by the Konwakiton Glacier, exposing towers, strata and stone the were once on the interior of the primordial Shasta heap. In the center of this geologic timescape is cut spectacular Mud Creek Canyon. This great trough cuts further into the mountain, forming the longest, deepest canyon on Mount Shasta. Wildness of the canyon cannot be overstated. Its unstable slopes still seek their angle of repose and are augmented by the unlikely presence of large hoodoos. It is one of the mountains grandest features.

Mud Creek Canyon viewed from Konwakiton Meadow.

A view of Mud Creek Canyon from the rim (image from November 2013).

Standing in the meadow at dawn, I was struck at how apparent so many of the landmarks around the Mud Creek basin were. Shastarama Point, Thumb Rock and the Konwakiton Glacier were all obvious. Most obvious, however, was Mud Creek Canyon. The great chasm was so striking one could not help but observe it piercing into the heart of Mount Shasta. Filled with snow dirtied by scree still sloughing off the canyons walls, it is a window into the mountain’s violent, eruptive past. Even 10 miles away from the canyon it inspires awe and humility.

Mount Shasta has many outstanding features but Mud Creek Canyon is one of its greatest. I would encourage anyone to explore the canyon, either from its rim high up on Mount Shasta or from below, observing it from one of the few vantages at which it is visible. It is “national park caliber” scenery and typically goes unappreciated from most of the mountain’s admirers. It certainly deserves renown that it has.

Mud Creek Canyon plainly visible cutting deep into Mount Shasta.

Wagon Creek: The Wildest Water

Posted by bubbasuess on June 16, 2019
Posted in: Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls. Tagged: . 1 Comment

The lowest section of the Wagon Creek Cascades

One of my favorite sights of spring in Mount Shasta is the awesome Wagon Creek Cascades flowing down the east side of Mount Eddy. This striking ribbon of white water is visible from parts of the Everitt Memorial Highway or from spots around the Abrams Lake exit on I-5. Gazing up and watching the distant cascade fills one with a yearning to journey to it and enjoy its thundering power, to get soaked in the clouds of mist it kicks up and to witness its beauty. Yet, in spite of its allure and being easily visible, the upper section of Wagon Creek is one of the most obscure stretches of water in the Trinity Divide.

The Wagon Creek Cascades

I have written about the upper section of Wagon Creek in the past, but largely in the context of their obscurity and the difficulty accessing them. It did not necessarily take the time to recognize the singularity of Wagon Creeks wildness. Few waterways around Mount Shasta can match the sheer ferocity with which Wagon Creeks plummets of the flanks of Mount Eddy. For those who have seen them from afar, the most common response is appreciation and wonder. I am often asked about the waterfall visible on the side of Mount Eddy. As impressive as they are, the remain mysterious and largely anonymous feature.

Wagon Creek Falls

Whether obscure or not, I would contend that the first 6 miles of Wagon Creek may be the wildest stretch of water in the Mount Shasta area. Some creeks on Mount Shasta, especially Mud and Ash Creeks certainly vie for this distinctions as well, crashing untamed through inaccessible canyons and plunging over spectacular waterfalls. However, neither of these creeks have the precipitous and dramatic descent as Wagon Creek. At its cascades, Wagon Creek drops an incredible 1,100 feet in less than 0.75 miles. It is an awesome display of whitewater raging down the mountain. This is crowned by excellent Wagon Creek Falls, one of the finest waterfalls in the Mount Shasta area. Below the falls other sections of the descent are not quite so steep but still descend at a rapid rate.

Wagon Creek floods Mills Meadow.

Once on flatter ground, Wagon Creek remains just as wild, only in more subtle ways. As the creek flows through large Mills Meadow, it is unchecked by flood control and regularly floods the meadow in the spring time. It is rare for a creek of this size to have the opportunity to naturally and regularly run over its banks in this manner. To the best of my knowledge, this is one of the only spots in the Mount Shasta area where this happens. I am confident Butte Creek, over by Orr Lake, does as well but i have not confirmed it myself. Nonetheless, setting itself apart from Butte Creek, Wagon Creek’s sudden transition from tremendous cascades and waterfall to gently flooding a massive meadow sets it apart from any other creek in the area. It is a wonderful set of contrasts that elevate Wagon Creek.

The next you are in the Abrams Lake area on I-5 or driving past McBride Springs on Everitt Memorial Highway, be sure to look up and appreciate the elegance and power of the Wagon Creek Cascades. Right now, as the snow melts out, they are at their peak and are a truly impressive sight. Even better, have a little adventure and make the journey into the falls themselves. You won’t regret seeing things up close.

Click to enlarge:

 

Snow, Waterfalls and Mountain Trails: Current Mount Shasta Area Conditions

Posted by bubbasuess on June 13, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls. 3 Comments

Mount Shasta aglow on a fiery mid-June evening.

Summer is finally in full swing here in Mount Shasta and conditions in the high country are gorgeous. Though the winter left a deep snowpack, the warm weather has arrived it is melting off rapidly. For those who hunger to get into the high country, conditions are improving by the day, opening up access to a variety of high elevation destinations and trails. The land is in a sublime state, as life explodes as the snow recedes and beauty abounds wherever one looks. Now is the time to start heading high and enjoying the raucous creeks the rejuvenating meadows and spectacular vistas of Mount Shasta.

One of my favorite aspects of the late spring, when the snow is melting swiftly, is the fantastic seasonal waterfalls found throughout the area. I have already discussed one of the most picturesque, which graces the Old Ski Bowl. There are several found throughout the Trinity Divide as well. While there are numerous found throughout the Castle Crags, most are challenging to get to. Others are easy to get to and found along the rugged cliffs of parts of the Divide further north. One such is well known, flowing down the cliffs above Castle Lake. The roar of the cascade while hiking around the lake is a wonderful spring rite for my kids. Though the falls don’t last long, they are a welcome addition to the already terrific Castle Lake area.

Another of my favorites in the Trinity Divide is more obscure but is a blast to explore once it has become accessible. Though not particularly hidden, I think it is generally overlooked and remains unappreciated, for the most part. The cascades, descending a few hundred feet,  certainly deserve more renown.

Conditions:

At this point, circumstances are quite good for hiking, considering how much snow fell during the winter.

  • Castle Lake Road is naturally open. The trails in the lake area are open, even if there are a few patches of lingering snow. As noted, the waterfall at the lake is lovely but it will not last long as the snow on Castle Lake melts out.
  • South Fork Road is open and clear all the way to Gumboot Lake (if not to the saddle by now). Cliff Lake and other destinations in that area are accessible. The PCT is also a good trail option in this area.
  • Parks Creek Road is open to about 6,500 feet before the snow starts to get iffy on the road. Needless to say, the deep snowdrift that always lingers just before the pass is still there. However, the trail to the Caldwell Lakes is open and there are plenty of other areas to explore in the vicinity.
  • Everitt Memorial Highway is open to Bunny Flat. The road is gated there and a few feet of snow still lingers on the road just beyond. Though the lodge at Horse Camp is still buried in snow, it is possible to hike out there, though on snow. The entire area is melting out swiftly, so it won’t take too long before the entire area is opened up. Note the conditions in the two images below for comparison:

On a personal note, I have one or two more blog posts planned for this weekend before I sign off for a month. Next week I am taking my wife and three kids on a roadtrip to Indiana and back. We are going to hit a number of national parks and other destinations. My kids have never been further east than Carson City and I am excited for them to experience Moab, the Great Plains (I will expand on this in a post this weekend), humidity, fire flies, cardinals and pork tenderloin sandwiches*. After that we will be in Yosemite for a while. It is going to be a long, great month. I look forward to checking in with everyone when I get back.

*Bonus points to whoever watches the pork tenderloin link.

Appreciating Mount Shasta’s Topographic Prominence

Posted by bubbasuess on June 1, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. Tagged: . Leave a comment

Mount Shasta towers majestically above the Shasta Valley. 

It is obvious to anyone who has seen Mount Shasta that the mountain is huge. It is not simply big or tall, though both of those things are evident. Rather, I believe that the mountains scale is an order of magnitude greater than what we are used to mountains being. It is the cumulative aspect of height, circumference and volume, coupled with a few intangibles, that make Mount Shasta the giant that it is.

There is one useful metric that does help measure the combined qualities that make Mount Shasta great. That measurement is prominence. That is how far the summit of the mountain stands above the lowest point within a particular peaks topographical isolation. In other words, and this is not a precise definition, but it means how far the top of a mountain stands above the surrounding landscape. The measurement a mountain’s prominence helps give some idea of just how high and massive a peak is. Typically, a peak must have at least 300 feet of prominence to be considered an independent peak. This being the case, Shastina also has prominence of its own but considering that it is not isolated and falls withing Mount Shasta’s topographical ring, it is usually still considered part of Mount Shasta.

Mount Saint Helens – ultraprominent no longer.

The upper echelon of prominent mountains are those that exceed 5,000 feet of prominence. These elite mountains are known as ultraprominent peaks. There are currently 57 ultra prominent peaks in the lower 48 states. Mount Saint Helens used to be the 58th but its eruption blow the final 1,300 feet off the mountain and removed the peak from the ranks of the ultraprominent. Worth noting is that Mount Eddy, the next highest peak after Mount Shasta, is also among the 57 ultraprominent peaks. Mount Eddy just barely clears the 5,000 feet of prominence threshold. Mount Shasta has nearly 10,000 feet of official prominence, though it is more than that on some sides of the mountain.

It is precisely this that I want to highlight in this article. The prominence with which Mount Shasta towers above the surrounding landscape is what makes Joaquin Miller’s claim that it is “lonely as God” true. It is manifestly alone, topographically isolated and without prominent peer.

Below is a gallery of different perspectives of Mount Shasta, each with measurements of the mountain’s prominence from a certain location. I was able determine the rough location of a given spot and determine the summit’s relief from that point. Each image is annotated in both feet and miles. I hope this gives some sense of just how prominent, massive and high Mount Shasta is.

Click to enlarge:

When considering the mountain from the perspective of prominence and isolation, it is evident that Mount Shasta is a tremendously prominent peak. For perspective, it may be useful to consider a different mountain. At 13,114 feet, Mount Lyell is the highest peak in Yosemite. Mount Shasta is over 1,000 feet higher. Concurrently, Yosemite Valley is approximately 4,000 feet in elevation. Thus, from Yosemite Valley to the top of the highest point in Yosemite is a rise of 9,114 feet.

This is not a precise measurement from the valley floor, being a bit higher up, but the line of sight from Mount Lyell to the Merced River gives good perspective. Yosemite Valley is 300 feet lower than this point on the river.

While Mount Shasta is 1,000 feet higher than Mount Lyell, at about 3,500 feet, Mount Shasta City is roughly 500 feet lower than Yosemite Valley. Therefore, the total rise from Mount Shasta City to the summit of Mount Shasta is 10,679 feet, a full 1,565 feet more rise than is found from Yosemite Valley to the highest point in the park. Adding to the grandeur of the scale, from Mount Lyell to the marked point on the Merced River is approximately 15.5 miles while the distance from the Central Mount Shasta exit on I-5 to the summit is 9.6 miles. Mount Shasta has greater rise in nearly half the distance.

No matter how you measure Mount Shasta, whether height nor volume, prominence or diameter, it is a staggering mountain, worthy of admiration and awe.

 

Final Sunrise And Sunset Of May 2019

Posted by bubbasuess on May 31, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Lenticular Clouds, Mount Shasta. Leave a comment

Lenticular clouds roil around Mount Shasta during the last sunrise of May.

I have been working on another post on Mount Shasta’s topographic prominence but I wanted to put this up now to memorialize the awesome clouds that appeared around Mount Shasta today. This morning I was granted the opportunity to go on an early morning hike with a friend out in the Shasta Valley. We hit the trail just as the sun started to appear on the horizon. As we drove out there, it appeared as though there was minimal cloud on the mountain. However, as we swung around to the north, it was evident that there was quite a bit of ongoing drama at the mountain’s upper reaches. It was a spectacular sight.

We hit the trail and as we walked, we watched the clouds continue to change and morph. They eventually grew until Mount Shasta was no longer visible. There were plenty of other interesting clouds in the sky too. Even Mount Eddy was home to a small lenticular formation.

While the spectacle played out on Mount Shasta, the northern half of the Shasta Valley was covered by typical white clouds that just hinted at the possibility of thunderstorms developing in the area.

Beautiful clouds form above Table Mountain.

Storms certainly proved to be the case. By late afternoon the clouds had grown and the sky turned dark. The rain came down hard for about 30 minutes before it finally slackened a bit. An hour later, just as the sun began to set the clouds cleared, leaving a gorgeous, colorful sky at the end of the day. I had the chance to go to one of my nearby vistas and capture the sunset on the mountain. It was a beautiful memorial to the wet year we have had so far and the coming of the summer weather. May be it be a fantastic season!

The final sunset of May 2019.