Sacramento River

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Cement Banks And Flooding Rivers: A Quick Look At The Geology Of The Sacramento River

Posted by bubbasuess on April 23, 2020
Posted in: Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Trinity Divide. Tagged: . 3 Comments

An awesome view of the confluence of Deer Creek and the Sacramento River.

The Upper Sacramento River is that part of the river that lies above Shasta Lake. This section of the river is vigorous and swift-flowing, a classic mountain river racing through a deep canyon. However, the Upper Sacramento River can be further subdivided into more parts. Below Lake Siskiyou, the lone impoundment on the Upper Sacramento the river travels through a lush, narrow canyon. Above the lake the river has a wider flood plain for a brief duration before it splits off into its nascent forks, the South, Middle and North Forks of the Sacramento. Each of these forks lead to headwater basins high in the Trinity Divide. Where they all converge, there is a brief but beautiful and fascinating stretch of river.

The short segment of river where the tributary forks converge is a classic Klamath Mountains river. It flows through a flat plane filled with large rocks of a multitude of colors, hinting at presence of serpentine and peridotite and the complex geologic composition of the Klamath Mountains. Yet, unlike other rivers in the area, some unusual geology is made manifest here that offers an intriguing glimpse into the river’s past. This is most evident at the confluence of Deer Creek with the Sacramento. At this spot the river’s north bank is nearly vertical for 40 to 80 feet, a contrast to the more gentle slope that characterizes the rest riverbank. In this vertical section, layers deposited by previous floods are exposed. It is an unusual opportunity to see the river’s history made plain in the landscape.

The Cement Bluff above Bluff Lake.

Some similar examples are found elsewhere in the Klamath Mountains. These formations are referred to as “cement”. Given the aggregate in each layer, I think it is an appropriate description. The two most prominent formations of this type are the Cement Banks in the Trinity Alps and the Cement Bluff in the Scott Mountains, just north of Mount Eddy. Both are far more massive than the cement formations along the Sacramento River but the one along the river is the most accessible and easiest to examine up close. The other two, larger formations are also somewhat more mysterious since they are further removed from rivers that would flood. It is likely they are the result of glaciation rather than flooding.

Regardless of how the Sacramento cement formations compare to the larger formations elsewhere in the Klamaths, the geologic layers exposed along the river are fascinating in their own right. The added benefit of the river’s presence makes this area as delightful and beautiful as it is compelling.

Just upstream from the confluence is a good place to see layers stacked on each other. The river currently flows through the broad, boulder-filled field. It has been slowly washing away the rocks and digging a deeper channel. Above boulders is another layer of gray sand and smaller rocks. These were deposited during a large flood at some point in the past. Above this is yet another layer of red soil and more rocks, though many of these are not rounded nor exhibit as much evidence of having been tumbled in the water.

 

The same layers are visible just below the confluence with Deer Creek. The boulder layer is at river level while the gray and red layers are stacked above the water. Note that just above the rapids on the left, there are some larger boulders embedded in the soil.

 

From a prominent vista point above the confluence, the layers are more obvious. The river flows through the large boulder field. The gray layer stretches out just above the water and the higher cliffs are composed of red soil.

 

The best place to look at these layers up close is on the spit of land that lies between Deer Creek and the Sacramento. It is possible to climb up to the base of a massive cut bank and examine the rocks. Upon closer investigation one finds that the rocks are very loosely packed into the sand. They are easily removed from the aggregate layer. These rocks were washed down in a large flood and settled into the sandy deposits left behind. At a later date the red layer was deposited on top of this. I have no idea if any of these layers are a product of melting glaciers or if they were all flash floods of immense proportion at some time in the past.

 

Interestingly, these layers extend a short distance up Deer Creek as well. Not far upstream from the confluence, the creek flows through a small gorge it has carved through a sandy bedrock layer. Above that is the multi-colored rocks and then the red layer. Strangely, it almost appears as though the boulder layer and the gray layer have been reversed.

Back at the Sacramento, the process of flooding and erosion continue to shape the river’s passage. Over the last decade the river has widened it channel considerably at the confluence with Deer Creek. In June of 2011 I visited the spot and observed the massive amount of runoff from hot weather and an exceptionally deep snow pack. The river was split into 5 large channels, each of which would currently be considered the river’s full flow in its main channel. When I visited this year, I noticed for the first time that the (current) main channel was much wider and a number of trees have been washed away.

The arrows mark trees that are present in both pictures. Note the base of the dead ponderosa is adjacent to the river now but was set back quite a ways from the channel in 2011.

Note that in addition to the channel being wider and many of the trees washed away, the large ponderosa has died. I am not sure if the tree drowned or the impact of rocks washing downstream damaged its roots or if some other explanation explains its demise. It remains an intriguing landmark from which to measure the growth of the river’s channel.

This section of the Sacramento is my favorite part of the entire river. The cement formations and their corresponding layers never cease to amaze me and I love investigating the ever-changing terrain. It shocks me that there are no trails in this beautiful area, though that is not necessarily a bad thing. Nonetheless, it remains an area that warrants more exploration and offers great rewards to those who take the time to venture just a short way off the beaten path.

Checking In On The Rivers And The Mountain During The Storm

Posted by bubbasuess on November 29, 2018
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers. Tagged: , . 2 Comments

An evening break in the storm reveals a snowy Mount Shasta. 

It has been precipitating off and on for nearly a week now. This prompted me to get out and check up on the state of the rivers, the snow on Mount Shasta and other results from the storms. Though the water level in the rivers has definitely increased, I was surprised by the lack of a significant torrent. With daily precipitation in the forecast, which includes a lot of snow higher up, I imagine the volume of the river will increase once the ground gets really saturated and more water is forced to run off during heavy rains. For now though, I am glad to see the rivers fuller and the mountains whiter. After a long dry spell that spelled the doom of Paradise and severely damaged other communities, it is reassuring to see the wet, fire-preventing precipitation arrive in a sustained way.

Below is a gallery of images showing the conditions at the Sacramento River, the Shasta River and from afar on Mount Shasta. Things are definitely moving int he right direction. Now we just want more snow!

Click to enlarge:

Overall, things are looking pretty good. Now is a great time to take a hike along one of the trails that follows a creek or river.

Postcard View Of The Castle Crags?

Posted by bubbasuess on August 1, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta History, Rivers. Tagged: . 5 Comments

The last few years my brother has been bringing his sons’ cross country team from Carmel up here to Mount Shasta in order to train at some higher elevations. My parents come up too and like to grandparent all the runners and make sure that everyone has a good time. Fortunately our guest cabin is large enough to accommodate 20-25 people fairly comfortably. When my parents showed up a couple of days ago in preparation for my brother’s crew’s arrival, my mom produced a little goodie she thought I might be interested in. Now, my mom is an avid thrift shopper (read: addiction) and every now and then she turns up some pretty amazing stuff. One of the more interesting was a 100 year old painting of Mount Shasta (see details here and here). One of her most recent acquisitions was a brand new, unused one of these.

So on this occasion, she handed me a postcard she thought I would be interested in. She was right. The scene on the card was easily recognizable as the Castle Crags and it was a perspective that, while seemingly familiar, was something I had not seen before:

It certainly is a spectacular shot and one that really highlights the rugged nature and massive bulk of the Crags. Set in late fall or winter, the Sacramento River flows around a bend while the Castle Crags loom magnificently in the background. A layer of snow covers the ground, though not the trees. Power lines that run parallel to the railroad tracks can be made out though they are not immediately obvious. Overall, it is a stunning scene, and one that seemingly ought to be more commonly photographed given how impressive it is.

The backside of the postcard notes the Castle Crags and their awesome presence above Highway 99. It further states that travelers on the highway often camp at the state park.

The fact that it refers to Highway 99 rather than Interstate 5 dates this card sometime prior to the mid-1950’s. The mention of Castle Crags State Park dates the card to sometime after 1933, when the park was established. If I had to guess, based on the aesthetics, I would put it somewhere between 1945-1955.

Naturally, with such an astounding view of the Crags, I wanted to locate the spot it was shot from. I figured with the direction of the river’s flow and the presence of the railroad tracks, it would not be too hard to determine where the picture was photographed. I hunted around on Google Earth a little bit before I realized that I had already been to this spot!

I had initially thought of this location when I first saw the card but I dismissed it as a possibility because of the arrangement of the railroad tracks in relation to the river. They are not visible in this shot, but they are set way back from the water, much further away than they appear on the postcard. Yet the Crags themselves were a dead ringer for what is seen in the card.

I snooped around on Google Earth a little more, looking at the Crags in relation to the orientation of the river. The perspective in the image I had taken of the Castle Crags was so similar to the one on the postcard I knew that if it was not the same spot, it had to at least be close. Nonetheless, there is nowhere else on the river that even comes close to having the same alignment between the Sacramento River and the Crags. It had to be the same spot. Yet the tracks in the postcard were nowhere near where the tracks are now.

I finally concluded that the tracks as they appear now are the result of a realignment and have been moved back, away from the river. My guess is that the old dirt road that follows the river now must be the old railroad bed. Walking that old road leads to the spot where I took my image. The perspective along the road would be very similar to what is on the postcard. Of course, the forest has grown up significantly sine the picture on the postcard was taken, but that is to be expected over the last 60-70 years.

To verify whether I was indeed correct in my assessment of where the postcard picture had  been taken, I tried superimposing the crags in my image over those that appear on the postcard. They were a nearly identical match! The river did not quite line up but that is not a surprise, since my image was taken at the water level while the one in the postcard is obviously taken from the top of the embankment, about 30 feet higher. Furthermore, I took mine during the spring thaw while the postcards is much later in the year when the water level is lower. Despite the slight shift in perspective and difference in volume, it is obvious that the river is rounding the same bend.

Click to enlarge the superimposed images:

I think it is quite conclusive. My image and the postcard were taken at nearly the same spot. The growth of the forest is quite remarkable, even though it is to be expected. Frankly, I prefer the areas appearance in the postcard rather than how it is today. At the very least, there is much less obstruction of the Crags themselves. Also, the lack of significant hardwoods makes the area more attractive, in my opinion. In spite of my preference, the spot remains one of the better views of the Castle Crags from down on the Sacramento River. Only that seen from the confluence with Castle Creek exceeds it.

So what is the takeaway from this exercise? First, it is that I am an unrepentant geography nerd. Second, and more important, there are a lot of great vistas out there that need to be rediscovered. This particular view of the Castle Crags deserves to be appreciated more than it is!

Update:

Reader Jeff Stone notified me that the trademark registration on the card would negate any date prior to 1952 and that the railroad was indeed realigned following the river’s flood of 1955. That would put the postcard’s date to somewhere between 1952 and 1955, which was right in my guess, based on the card’s design. He also linked me to another postcard that was taken in the same area. It must have been right around the same time, since all the trees are exactly the same!

5 Mount Shasta Area Trails We Need To Build

Posted by bubbasuess on July 18, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Lakes, Meadows, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta, Scott Mountains, Trinity Alps, Trinity Divide, Water. Tagged: , , . 8 Comments

A spectacular morning view of Mount Shasta from the proposed Konwakiton Trail.

For the last several years, I have been highlighting the trails in the Mount Shasta area. We are blessed with a number of great tracks that lead to some truly stunning destinations. However, there remain a host of places that lack trails accessing them or the trail network is incomplete and could be significantly enhanced by the presence of a few more miles of trail. Some of these are in wilderness areas and the approval of construction in the protected land seems unlikely. Others are just not interesting enough to attract the effort necessary for the labor and money to be invested in these projects. This is OK, since it leaves these areas to the motivated and adventurous and promises that these secret spots will remain as they are. That said, there are still some places that I think warrant the effort to build. I believe these trails would instantly become classic Mount Shasta area trails and get significant use. Their addition would make an already great Mount Shasta hiking experience even better than it already is.

Unfortunately, the likelihood of many of these ideas coming to fruition are minimal. The Forest Service suffers from a lack of funding that impairs the possibility of many improvements to the trails. They want to make the hiking experience around Mount Shasta as good as it can be but the obstacles are great. Volunteer contributions are absolutely necessary. This ranges from actual trail construction to the commitment of significant funds to pay for the NEPA process (which is a major problem on its own!). Working through organizations like the Mount Shasta Trails Association is the best way to bring new trails into being.

I may expand on each of my proposals in individual posts. I would be interested in feedback you may have on any of these suggested trails.

5. Trinity Vista Trail

Deadfall Basin and Mount Eddy are classic destinations for hikers in the Mount Shasta area. The basin is filled with gorgeous lakes, awesome wildflowers and fascinating geology. There are two options for reaching the Deadfall area. Most hikers follow the Pacific Crest Trail from the Parks Creek Trailhead while others begin at the Deadfall Meadow Trailhead. The former is longer but requires almost no elevation gain. It has good views of the Scott Mountains and some particularly lush wildflowers as well as refreshing springs. The latter route is shorter but requires more climbing. It ascends into the basin through Deadfall Meadow, which is filled with creeks and even more impressive wildflowers and lush mountain gardens. These two routes each have much to recommend them. Unfortunately, they cannot be combined into a single trip without walking on the steep paved road that connects the trailheads. However, the two trails make up 75% of what could be a really excellent loop hike.

Trinity Vista Trail view of the snowy Trinity Alps.

To complete the loop, it would be necessary to construct about 1.75 of trail across the slopes that lie between Deadfall Creek and the road descending from the Parks Creek Trailhead. The addition of this trail would afford hikers the chance to hike into Deadfall Basin (and continue on to Mount Eddy if desired) by way of either the PCT or the Deadfall Meadow Trail and then return by the other route. This would allow for a much more diverse and scenic trip. What would the addition offer in terms of scenery? The area is mostly wooded but there are opening where vistas would be available. What is most notable is the opportunity to look out to the west where there is a spectacular view of the Trinity Alps. From the trail, the Bear Lake Basin is only 12 miles to the west and presents an grand foreground to the sawtooth-like horizon of the Trinities. This is particularly true near the top of the climb. Not only would the trail allow for the loop option to be employed, but for hikers only looking for a quick outing, the upper section, with its views of the Trinity Alps, would be an excellent easy walk.

4. Upper Sacramento Trail/Lake Siskiyou Trail Extension

For several years now I have been discussing the need to build trail sections that would allow for a backpacking loop that combined the Sisson-Callahan Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, the Castle Lake Trail and the Lake Siskiyou Trail. I dubbed this proposed circuit the Headwaters Loop since it would completely encircle the three headwaters forks of the Sacramento River. Most of the loop is already built. An unofficial but established loop trail connects the PCT and Castle Lake. Though less than ideal, a dirt road follows much of Castle Lake Creek’s journey down to Lake Siskiyou. The most obvious hole in the loop is the section that would connect the Lake Siskiyou Trail with the Sisson-Callahan Trail at the North Fork of the Sacramento.

Hikers would have great views of Mt. Eddy along the river.

While this section of trail would be a key piece of the Headwaters Loop puzzle, I have a bit of a grander conception of what it offers. I propose building trail 1.75 miles from the inlet at Lake Siskiyou along the Sacramento River to the Sisson-Callahan Trailhead. However, more ambitiously, I propose building  a sturdy wooden bridge (I will elaborate extensively on the bridge when I expand on this trail in a future post) across the Sacramento River and adding a section of trail that loops back to the inlet along the southern side of the river. This would accomplish several things. Naturally it would help complete the bacpacking loop I have suggested. More importantly, it would extend the Lake Siskiyou Trail along a beautiful section of the Sacramento River. This would allow the loop around the lake to be hiked all year when the seasonal bridges are not in place. When the seasonal bridges are in position, it would give hikers the option of doing a beautiful loop hike around a lovely section of the Sacramento River. A new trailhead could be built on South Fork Road at the place where the road makes a sharp turn to the west and begins to parallel the river. This would add more access to the Lake Siskiyou Trail and provide a good starting point for hikers sticking to the shorter river loop. This would have the further benefit of cutting down on vagrant encampments in this area. All in all, this has the potential to become one of the most popular sections of trail in the Mount Shasta City area.

3. Mount Shasta Bowl Trail

View towards the bowls and the area covered by the trail.

The upper reach of Everitt Memorial Highway has several awesome trails. Whether heading to the numerous destinations from Bunny Flat or Panther Meadow or the Old Ski Bowl, hikers are guaranteed spectacular scenery. The area is actually rather dense with trails, though they are generally divided between the lower ones originating at Bunny Flat and the upper trails that begin in the Old Ski Bowl area. The two sets of hikes are not connected by any maintained path. Whats more, the road to the Old Ski Bowl remains closed much of the year and the upper destinations are not accessible. This brings up my third proposed trail, which would run parallel to the Everitt Memorial Highway and connect Bunny Flat to the Old Ski Bowl. It would also be possible to add a spur trail that would split off and reach the road across from the entrance to the Panther Meadow parking area. Up until now, I have dubbed the route the Bowl Trail since it would pass beneath Sun Bowl and Powder Bowl, which lie on the south side of Green Butte Ridge.

This trail would accomplish several things. First, it would allow motivated hikers to reach the upper destinations earlier in the year. Obviously this is contrary to why the road remains closed but I believe the number of people heading up there on foot would be dramatically less than would reach the area in cars. Furthermore, hikers can already simply walk on the road to Panther Meadow. An established trail would be a much more pleasant way to channel people there. In fact, if the path simply went to the Old Ski Bowl without a spur to Panther Meadow, it would probably reduce the number of people who went to the meadow, since that area would be bypassed and lead straight to the Old Ski Bowl. The other benefit would be a fantastic loop that would connect both the Horse Camp Trail and the Green Butte Ridge Trail with the Old Ski Bowl Trail and facilitate a truly fantastic loop hike that would circumnavigate Green Butte. This route would require some rock scrambling over Green Butte Ridge but for those prepared of such a journey, it would be an epic hike.

2. China Basins Loop

Mount Shasta viewed from above Lower Caldwell Lake.

The high point of the Scott Mountains and the 4th highest peak in the Mount Shasta area, China Mountain is a criminally overlooked alpine destination. The tall peak rises at the eastern end of the Scotts, like the prow of a massive ship overlooking the Shasta Valley, which lies a mile below the summit. It is perhaps overlooked since it lakes a distinctive profile and much of its flanks are covered with dense forests. However, this hides the true character of the higher portions of the mountain. The summit of China Mountain is surrounded by three lake basins. While none of them house large lakes, the lakes themselves are still scenic and the rugged terrain that looms above them as very scenic. In many ways, the loop around China Mountain would be similar to the excellent Four Lakes Loop in the Trinity Alps. None of the lakes on China Mountain rise to the spectacular level of beauty as the four that lie around Siligo Peak but they are nonetheless beautiful. What the loop around lakes on China has, though, is eye-in-the-sky vistas that reach for great distances in every direction. These views would take in much of southern Oregon, Mount Shasta and a vast span of the Klamath Mountains including the Trinity Divide, Scott Mountains, Trinity Alps, Russian Wilderness, Marble Mountains and the Siskiyous. Take that Four Lakes Loop!

China Mountain is flanked by three basins that contain lakes as well as a 4th that has some large meadows in place of a lake. A 5th basin, High Camp Basin, lies immediately to the south and the highest corner of it makes the best passage for the trail. Two lake basins, the West Park Lakes and the Caldwell Lakes are headwaters for Parks Creek, which is a major tributary of the Shasta River. Crater Lake has no out let, but along with the meadow-filled basin, is in the Scott River watershed. High Camp Basin is one of the two sources of the mighty Trinity River. The ups and downs of the loop around the mountain, which would include a spur up to the summit of China Mountain would cross through three major watersheds! I think this trail would be destined to become a classic Mount Shasta area adventure!

1. Konwakiton Trail

In many ways, this is the trail that I have the grandest vision for and excites me the most. This trail combines an unusual creek, interesting volcanic and glacial geology, lush meadows and staggering views of one of Mount Shasta’s most beautiful profiles. The genesis of this trail concept began with the frustration over the lack of trails in the McCloud area. Basically all the hikes near the town were along the McCloud River. Squaw Valley Creek is an outlier but offers similar scenery to what is found along the river. Equally frustrating was the near total lack of views of Mount Shasta from any of these trails. I have written about how McCloud is an under-rated hiking destination but the lack of diversity and views of the mountain continued to nag at me. I have hunted around for features and places that would offer some interest to highlight this beautiful area. The one place I kept coming back to was infamous Mud Creek.

Mud Creek

Mud Creek begins high on Mount Shasta and flows through the mountain’s largest canyon. It then flows south through the McCloud Flats before suffering indignity and finally reaching the McCloud River. The creek’s name comes from the silt and glacial till in the water that gives it a muddy or chalky appearance. The name Konwakiton is the Wintu word for “muddy” and the creek’s ultimate source is the Konwakiton Glacier that lies just below Mount Shasta’s summit. The proposed trail would run parallel to the creek until it reaches the Great Shasta Rail Trail. It would then follow back along the creek before veering east. It would cut through forest until it reaches the edge of a large meadow, where hikers are greeted with an incredible view of Mount Shasta. It would then follow much of the meadow’s perimeter before cutting through the grassy fields back to the trailhead. My vision for this area is not limited to trails but also to the development of a new Forest Service campground, picnic area as well as possibly a walk-in campground and a mountain biking area. By way of the Rail Trail, it would also be accessible by foot, horse or bike from McCloud. I see this as possibly becoming a flagship area for Mount Shasta, which I tentatively refer to as the Konwakiton Recreation Area. The amazing thing is that much of the trail already exists…

Overview Map (click to enlarge)

Three Mountains And A River

Posted by bubbasuess on May 19, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Water. Tagged: . 3 Comments

Mount Eddy peeks through the trees at a vigorous stretch of the Sacramento River.

I have been writing a lot lately about the Sacramento River’s activity near the Lake Siskiyou inlet. In large measure this is a result of my fascination with the history of water in the western United States (if you haven’t read Cadillac Desert, you really should). The Sacramento River is one of the linchpins of the hydrologic infrastructure in California as well as the state’s largest and longest river. Yet it is often overlooked that this most critical piece in the Golden State’s puzzle begins here in the Mount Shasta area. Indeed, though many people enjoy Lake Siskiyou or fish the river, we often forget what a powerful and important presence the river is in this area. Strangely enough, despite its relatively short length, it is often the McCloud River, with its excellent waterfalls, that is often thought of as the river of the Mount Shasta area.

Though there are probably several reasons why the Sacramento River is not appreciated as it ought to be (almost no trails along it!), I think one of the most significant is the fact that the river is perpetually overshadowed by the large mountains that rise above it. The Castle Crags, Mount Eddy and Mount Shasta all command attention and respect and the Sacramento, lacking waterfalls and its box canyon damed up, does not boast many notable features (we really need a trail to Mossbrae Falls!) to attract people to it. It is thus ironic that the Sacramento River offers some of the best views of the three most notable mountains that rise above it. It is a remarkable showcase of the amazing topography that lies at the source of California’s most important river. This, perhaps, is the river’s iconic feature but it has managed to somehow go unnoticed. This needs to be rectified.

The Castle Crags can often be hard to view from afar but the Sacramento River has spectacular vistas of the granite spires.

Mount Eddy, on whose slopes the North Fork of the Sacramento is born, is often best viewed from the Sacramento River.

Mount Shasta can be viewed from almost anywhere but the kinetic fury of the Sacramento River adds a marvelous dimension to the massive mountain. 

It continues to amaze me that there is only one developed trail that runs parallel to the Sacramento River. As these images reveal, there are numerous magnificent views of the mountains around the river waiting to be explored, discovered and enjoyed. In my last post, I brought up the possibility of extending the Lake Siskiyou Trail upstream, following the river on both sides and then crossing it by means of a permanent bridge. This would open up some of the most scenic sections of the river to hikers. It would also facilitate more exploration and rock scrambling as people explored the numerous channels the river splits into once the three forks have all combined. There is a lot of memories and beauty waiting to be appreciated along that section of the Sacramento River.

Click to enlarge:

More Damage To Lake Siskiyou Trail

Posted by bubbasuess on May 15, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Water. Tagged: , , . 4 Comments

The Sacramento River continues to erode its banks and alter the landscape.

The Lake Siskiyou Trail can’t seem to catch a break. Ever since the Sacramento River bottled up its south channel a few years ago, the inlet area where the river flows into Lake Siskiyou has gone through an annual process of erosion, soil displacement and a general alteration of the landscape. Although it is fascinating to watch the river shape the land around it, the continual changes to the inlet area has had an adverse effect on the trail. Over the last three years more and more of the pathway, as well as the gabions that support seasonal bridges, have washed away into Lake Siskiyou. The winter of 2016/2017 was no different from the previous winters. More and more of the river’s inlet area was washed away as torrential rain and melting snow flooded the Sacramento River, causing it to yet again wash more rock and earth away.

Though I have been to both the northern and southern channels this spring, I had not had a chance to cross the now flowing south channel(it has not flowed for the last two years, since it was blocked up during a flood and beginning the entire erosion process) since I had previously visited with my kids. For Mother’s Day, we decided to head back down to the south channel and let the kids play in the water, explore the wildflower-filled meadows and play in the wood forts that have been constructed at the edge of the forest. This afforded my the opportunity to cross the south channel and go examine exactly what changes occurred there.

The Lake Siskiyou Trail ends abruptly at a cutbank.

What I found was not shocking but it was impressive nonetheless. During the winter the river washed yet more land away and now flows into Lake Siskiyou by means of a seemingly perpetually deepening gully cut into the loose rock and soil of the floodplain. Entrance into the gully is now marked by a beautiful stair-step cataract. Not much of the gully was there last year, having been carved out by this winter’s torrential flows. The trail was washed out in two places. The first spot saw the trail just fade away at the edge of the lake. To pick up the extant trail required crossing a narrow isthmus of land that was only 1.5 feet wide. From there it is possible to pick the trail back up and follow it for about 30 yards before it abruptly ends at the 3 foot high cut bank. Below the unstable ledge the Sacramento River flows vigorously.

This whole area has changed considerably over the last few years. Examine the satellite images to see where the land has been washed away. Pay special attention to the river’s location, the trail and bridges as well as the location of the trees:

These maps highlight the areas that have been washed away:

The following map shows the route of the Lake Siskiyou Trail as well as the areas that have been impacted by flooding. An alternate route for the trail is also suggested:

The yellow line is original rerouted trail circa 2016. The pink segment has been lost. Red marks an alternate route for a new trail. The path avoids the lake and the unstable parts of the inlet. 

Unfortunately, rerouting the Lake Siskiyou Trail is likely not to be a permanent solution to the constantly changing conditions at the inlet. Half the original trail has been washed away and the cutbank that has developed on the north channel will make it harder to place the seasonal bridge. Long term, I think the solution will be to extend the trail west along the Sacramento River for another 0.75 miles and then construct permanent foot bridge across the river. This would have several benefits. First, it would make the loop around the lake passable all year, rather than when the seasonal bridges can be placed. This would also lift the constant threat of the trail being washed out. Second, it would open up a new trail experience, one that would highlight one of the prettiest stretches of the Sacramento River. I think folks would hike that section by itself, not just for the sections by the lake. It would also present the opportunity to build a new trailhead along South Fork Road. Extending the trail upstream would also move things that much closer to connecting the Lake Siskiyou Trail to the Sisson-Callahan Trail. This would close one of the missing segments of my proposed Headwaters Loop. This proposal is due to get its own article soon.

For further discussion of the changed conditions at the inlet, scroll through the enlarged images and see how the trail has been washed away:

 

Sacramento River Inlet Follow Up

Posted by bubbasuess on May 9, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Water. Tagged: . 2 Comments

The Sacramento River fans out over its flood plain at the Lake Siskiyou inlet.

After yesterday’s post on the ever-changing conditions where the Sacramento River flows into Lake Siskiyou, I decided to pop back over and check out the conditions at the north channel. To recap, over the last few winters, the river has begun to reshape its path at a rapid rate. Prior to the winter of 2014/2015, the river had maintained a relatively stable course. The area was unchanged enough that construction on the Lake Siskiyou Trail was completed at the inlet. A trail and two sets of gabions for seasonal bridges were installed. The bridges crossed the river’s two channels that entered the lake. However, despite being a drought winter, sometime during one of the storms of 2014/2015, the river dammed up the southern (which was the primary) channel and shifted the entirety of its flow into the north channel. Unaccustomed to the volume of water now flowing through that area, the land gave way and much of the surface area around the north channel was scoured and washed away during high water over the next two years.

Click to enlarge and see the changes over the last few years:

Now the barrier that impeded flow into the south channel has been breached and after two years there is water flowing through it again. It is not nearly as much as contained in the north channel but it is not an insignificant level of water. The area along what is now the Sacramento’s main stem as it flows into the lake is still being altered by the heavy water. Most specifically, the area once traveled by the Lake Siskiyou Trail after crossing the north channel has been washed away. Most of the damage was done last winter but as the river surges past an aggregate-filled cutbank it is obvious that the process of erosion is by no means complete. It is likely that the route of the trail will continue to change over the next few winters as the land it travels is washed into the lake.

Another noteworthy change is to the small creek that hikers encountered prior to reaching the rocky flood plain along the river. At one time this was a fairly large creek that required a substantial (but movable) bridge to be placed over it. The first flood to come through washed it away but it was hauled back into position. The bridge has now been washed away again. However, during the process of flooding, much of the creeks waterway has been filled with sediment and the bridge is more rendered somewhat unnecessary at this point. Somewhere upstream the flow in the creek has been diverted and the amount of water flowing through is not nearly what it was in the recent past. It will be interesting to see how this area changes during subsequent floods.

Long term, I think the best option for the Lake Siskiyou Trail would be to extend the route upstream from the inlet 0.6 mile to where the river is pinched by the walls of its canyon into a narrower channel than in other areas. It would be possible to build a bridge here that would be high enough to avoid flood waters. Just as important, the steeper canyon walls would facilitate the construction of a trail that would also avoid impact from higher river water. Even better, a further 0.5 miles of new trail past the bridge would connect the Lake Siskiyou Trail to the Sisson-Callahan Trail, linking important pieces of my proposed Headwaters Loop. I think I will reconnoiter the site I think would work and put up a post on it in the near future.

Click to enlarge images of the Sacramento’s north channel at the inlet:

The Sacramento River Is Up To Its Old Tricks Again

Posted by bubbasuess on May 8, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Water. Tagged: . 4 Comments

Mount Eddy is visible above a strongly flowing south channel at the Lake Siskiyou inlet.

Since the beginning of 2015, I have been documenting the changes that have occurred at the Sacramento River’s inlet into Lake Siskiyou. For many years the Sacramento River divided itself into a northern and southern channel at it flowed into the impounded Lake Siskiyou. Of the two, the southern tended to have the larger volume of water. However, during one heavy rain in the midst of the drought winter of 2014/2015, the river blocked up the southern channel at the inlet and forced all the water into the northern channel. See some of the posts that documented this process here, here and here. Most importantly, I found that the southern channel remained dry, even when the river volume was relatively dry. This was the case last year as well.

However, we have had heavy precipitation all winter and the volume water in the river has been particularly high. At times it was downright scary how much water flowed into Lake Siskiyou. It should come as no surprise then, that the Sacramento River managed to open its southern channel back up and it now has a significant amount of water flowing through it. When the channel originally ran dry, the bridge that spanned it was left in place on the gabions. It was subsequently removed, though the gabions remained in place, of course. Unless hikers want to get their feet wet, it will now be necessary for the bridge to be reinstalled.

Click to enlarge:

Note the amount of snow on Mount Eddy. The drought winter left little even at high elevations.

Even if the bridges were installed on the south channel, the loop around Lake Siskiyou is still incomplete. The north channel, now the dominant route for the Sacramento River, still has a very heavy flow and it would be difficult to place the bridge over the channel. The river is wide and deep and also has a couple of smaller subsidiary channels that also have a strong flow. The difficulty is exacerbated by the fact that the original gabions were destroyed when the river first altered its course and the location of the new bridge has shifted with each winter’s heavy flow. It is premature to ascertain where the new bridge or bridges will have to be located. The water need to drop quite a bit before the loop can be completed once again. For those look to attempt the loop without the bridges, fording the water in the south channel is not difficult but trying to do so at the north channel is ill-advised right now. What the Lake Siskiyou Trail needs is a permanent bridge over the main channel prior to reaching the inlet. That is the subject of another post…

For the time being, the south channel has water in it once again, which is nice. For those who know the back way into the inlet from South Fork Road, it is a great place to take kids and let them play in the water. The section of the trail heading east along the south shore of the lake is also quite nice right now, before people doing the loop and campers from the Lake Siskiyou Resort have there way with it. Right now it feels quite isolated.

Click to enlarge:

It is also worth noting that the Sacramento River has been altering the landscape along its course at places other than the Lake Siskiyou inlet. I have not explored the Box Canyon yet (which no doubt got hammered when the lake went over the spillway during the winter) but I did note that the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento has been altered as well. For the last several years, the creek reached the river six or so feet higher than the Sacramento. It cascaded down the rocky embankment in order to join the swift flowing river. Just prior to the confluence the Sacramento River separated into two channels around an island. Castle Creek joined in just as these two channels rejoined. Now all the rock at this point has been cleared out and the creek cascades down to the river as it meets one of the two channels, not the recombined stem of the river. It has somewhat diminished the great view but remains an awesome spot nonetheless.

Despite the way the river has impacted the land around it, now is a great time to visit the Sacramento. It isn’t the best time to hit swimming holes or let kids play in the water. However, it is right now, as the temperatures increase and the snow melts, that the river takes on the full character of a real mountain river. It flows powerfully and swiftly, racing through rocky flood plains and deep canyons. The Mount Shasta area is fortunate to have such a fantastic waterway.

Water, Water, Every Where

Posted by bubbasuess on March 3, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Water. Tagged: , , , , , , , , . 5 Comments

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Bully Choop, Shasta Bally and the Trinity Alps line the horizon above a very full Sacramento River.

The winter of 2016/2017 has certainly been a wild one so far (see images here, here, here, here and here). Things kicked off with a utterly soaking October and has hardly let up since then. After the rain that came down during the fall, winter arrived in full force in January and has absolutely inundated California with rain and snow. After years of horrific drought, the sudden arrival of so much water has been a shock to both the psyche and the infrastructure. Where a couple of years ago the reservoirs were at 40-year lows, they are now so full as to pose threats to hundreds of thousands of people. The dangers aside, it is absolutely mind-boggling to drive around the Sacramento Valley and see so much water in the river, in the fields and in the gushing through the creeks. If you have not yet and you are able, I would strongly recommend heading over to the Shasta Dam and see the spectacle of the water being dumped out of Shasta Lake as fast as it can be. It is spectacular.

Click to enlarge:

This winter will have a noticable impact on hikers. Some will be positive, some negative. On the positive side, water will flow strongly throughout the summer and there will be lots of snow on the mountains throughout the high country. On the negative side of the equation, access will be a challenge, one which will manifest in a few different ways. Simply put, access to higher elevations will have to wait until much later than normal as the deep snow pack takes longer to melt. It will be a particularly interesting summer for those attempting the Pacific Crest Trail. For perspective on the snow level, check out this little webcam shot from Glacier Point:

Access is also going to be impaired due to road damage. Many roads, like CA 299 and Dinkey Creek Road have been damaged by the amount of water that has been inundating the state. However, no road damage is as dramatic as the rockslide that has blocked off the road into Whitney Portal, where the trailhead to Mount Whitney is found:

It may have been obvious from past posts, but one of my favorite subjects is water management and water policy in the western United States. The half of the country that lies west of the 100th meridian is utterly dependent on sound management of the shockingly scarce resource and it has impact on far-reaching aspects of our lives. This ranges from the fundamental need for water to drink to agriculture to how we recreate and use the land. Everything is touched by water policy. I would encourage everyone to read Cadillac Desert. I don’t agree with all of the author’s conclusions but it remains the best book I have seen on water in the western U.S. Not only is a fascinating account, but it will inform us as citizens as to the critical water issues we face. Frankly, Sacramento in particular has failed us in regards to water management and I think voters need to hold them to account. Water issues don’t seem to ever make it into the public discussion around election time as an essential topic but I think between the drought and the infrastructure issues this winter, we can’t avoid the topic any longer. This is made all the more pressing as the state’s population grows, putting more strain on the already strained system.

Enough of politics though. What I really wanted to do with this post is include some of the incredible footage of the rivers and dams from the past couple months. Nothing really puts an exclamation point on this winter like the stunning sights that have been put on display.  I want to focus on some of my favorites from the Northern California Rivers. Skip to the end to see some really incredible footage from the Oroville Dam’s spillway clean up that has been posted by DWR the last couple of days. The scale of the engineering and logistical challenges are staggering!

The Yuba:

The American River:

Scenes Along the Sacramento River:

Lake Berryessa (Putah Creek):

Feather River (Oroville Dam):

Storm Swollen Sacramento

Posted by bubbasuess on December 15, 2016
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta. Tagged: , . 2 Comments

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The North Fork joins a raging Sacramento River.

The storms passing through the Mount Shasta area have dropped a substantial amount of precipitation. I am not sure exactly how many inches have fallen but the weather has not been too cold so while the significantly higher elevations have seen some snow, the mid-elevation areas had considerable rain which melted the snow that had fallen earlier. Consequently, the rivers and creeks are absolutely engorged right now.

sacramento-river-2-customI had a little spare time today so I headed out to check on the rivers myself. My first stop was the Shasta River. Where I checked it was not that far from its headwaters but the river had already picked up big head of steam and was racing off to the north. Typically the river is not too large when it passes through Edgewood but today it was impressively large and split into numerous channels. Lake Shastina is get a much-needed bolus. I can only imagine how awesome it must be to see the river downstream in the Shasta River Canyon, after it has picked up its major tributaries, including Parks Creek, Big Springs Creek and the Little Shasta River.

After I looking in on the Shasta River, I decided to investigate the Sacramento River. Crossing over the Box Canyon Dam, it was evident that the lake was full and the water was pouring over the spillway. I continued on, beyond the lake. The section of river upstream from Lake Siskiyou, laden with a technicolor palette of rocks and the wild water is one of my favorite spots around Mount Shasta. My wife and I like to let the kids scramble on the rocks, through sticks in the river and explore. Today, none of that was even thinkable. The river was an incredible torrent, at times split into several major channels while in other areas it was all collected into a single, deep roiling trough. One of my go-to places to photograph Mount Shasta is along this stretch of the river. Here you can see the Sacramento pour through the many-colored rocks with the lofty mountain rising majestically in the distance. Today the mountain was shrouded in cloud but the fury of the river compensated for the loss of the view. The power of the water was awesome. Compare:

Other areas along the river proved equally impressive. Much less water has produced significant changes to the river’s course and topography (see example here, here, here and here). It will be interesting to see how much change this incredible flow will yield. In the meantime, until the water subsides, it is an incredible sight to behold.

Click to enlarge:

Update:

The day after I posted these images the skies cleared and I returned to the river to check on the conditions again. The water level, though still quite full, had dropped significantly. I was able to capture a shot of the wild river with Mount Shasta in the distance.

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