Tenaya Canyon, Half Dome and Vernal and Nevada Falls from Glacier Point. Not a bad view from the trailhead.
Yosemite Week on Hike Mt Shasta has been a lot of fun for me write and has been a good opportunity to continue ruminating on my favorite place on Earth. Now, at the end of the week I want to close with what I believe to be the best trail to be trod. Yosemite’s Panorama Trail is, in my estimation, the most spectacular trail on the planet. When you consider the length and difficulty against the amount of scenery and the quality of the scenery traveled by the trail, it is difficult, in my mind, to surpass what is offered by this incredible hike.
What makes this trail so great? The Panorama begins with staggering views from Glacier Point at the trailhead and maintains those for a couple of miles during the descent to Illilouette Creek. The High Sierra, including Mt. Lyell, the highest point in Yosemite, as well as the underrated Clark Range are visible for the duration of this section. Below the jagged peaks are Half Dome, Little Yosemite Valley and the Grand Staircase over which the Merced Rivers tumbles, forming the superlative Vernal and Nevada Falls. One arrives at the bottom of the canyon just in time to get an incredible view of Illilouette Falls, backed by the glittering southern face of Half Dome. From there it is on to Panorama Point and its unusual but exception view of Yosemite Valley, including stupendous Yosemite Falls. Half Dome continues to be ubiquitous throughout the traverse of the rim of Panorama Cliff and Clouds Rest also makes dramatic appearances. The trail eventually descends down to the top of Nevada Falls, the views now taking in the trails point of embarkation, Glacier Point. After crossing over the river just as it jettisons off the cliff to form Nevada Falls, there is an opportunity to observe the falls from a dizzying ledge. Then it is on to the climb down 600 feet alongside the thundering falls. At the bottom, another great view of the falls before heading on to the Silver Apron and Emerald Pool. These herald the arrival at the top of Vernal Falls and another cliff-edge view of the massive waterfall. Next is the iconic trip down the Mist Trail, first through a long crack in the rock then down steep granite steps, all the while being blasted by the cooling mist cast upwards when Vernal Falls explodes on the rocks after plummeting 318 feet. One final look at the falls as you cross the river on a sturdy bridge and then down alongside the still tumultuous Merced River. As the trail rounds the lowest shoulder of Half Dome or more accurately Sierra Point (a subject for another article someday) looking up Illilouette Gorge, one can catch a sliver glimpse of Illilouette Falls. From there it is down to Happy Isles and the end of an incredible journey.
It is not just that the Panorama Trail visits all these spots, but the way in which it does it. At almost no point does the trail travel through terrain that lacks views or waterfalls or geologic interest. In between the points described are constantly changing variations of the views. Where the views are obscured by trees, they are at points where the shade is welcome and one is almost exhausted from the visual feast. The trail itself is also engaging, traveling along steep cliffs and narrow ledges, across creeks and over waterfalls. It is all engineered in pleasing and exciting ways, adding another memorable dimension to what is already an utterly spectacular trail.
My brother and I have long had a measuring system by which to gauge the quality of a trail. We don’t have an official name but one could call it the “bang for your buck” scale. Simply put, how much scenery, how good is the scenery and how much fun is the trail for the effort put in. He and I have hiked all over America and the world, but the Panorama has yet to be surpassed on this scale. For the amount of effort put in, it is almost inconceivable that a trail could offer more. It is no surprise that such an amazing hike would be found in Yosemite.
Click to enlarge:
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- Before heading out on the Panorama Trail, it is worth stopping and taking in the view from the northern exposure of Glacier Point. Not only does Yosemite Valley lie directly below but you can look east up staggering Tenaya Canyon. While Half Dome and North Dome guard the entrance, Mount Watkind, Clouds Rest and host of high country peaks are seen deeper up the chasm.
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- Heading out from Glacier Point, the Panorama Trail passes below Washburn Point and offers equally terrific views of Half Dome and the Merced River plunging over Vernal and Nevada Falls. High country peaks like Mount Lyell (Yosemite’s highest point) line the horizon as the trail switchbacks down into Illilouette Canyon.
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- From a vantage across the gorge from the fall, hikers can get a good view of Illilouette Falls and the steep canyon descending down to the Merced. Half Dome is a looming presence from here.
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- After reaching Illilouette Creek, a little scrambling brings hikers to the precipice where Illilouette Creek plunges into its narrow gorge. Off to the north, North Dome and Basket Dome can be seen below the snowy crags of Mount Hoffmann, the geographic center of Yosemite.
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- Panorama Point seems to be an often-overlooked perspective on Yosemite Valley. Beyond Glacier Point, Yosemite Falls thunders down to the valley floor. The unique perspective on the Royal Arches and Washington Column, as well as North Dome, give the valley a strikingly different appearance.
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- Yosemite Falls is visible from a few points while climbing out of Illilouette Creek’s canyon. This is a good perspective from which to appreciate both the Upper and Lower Falls.
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- As hikers cross the top of the Panorama Cliff, they are treated to more excellent views of Half Dome. The granite turret of Clouds Rest is also more apparent.
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- Once the trail joins the John Muir Trail, it is only a short distance to an awesome bit of trail that features a stupendous views of Nevada Falls racing down a cliff beneath Half Dome, Mount Broderick and Liberty Cap.
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- After finally arriving at the top of Nevada Falls, there is a great opportunity to gaze down the cliff as the waterfall explodes into mist when it hits the end of its plunge. This kind of view makes the waterfall’s “snowy” name seem quite fitting.
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- After descending the cliffs alongside Nevada Falls, there is a good opportunity to look back at the wild torrent. The triangular shape and two-staged nature of the falls give the waterfall an unusual shape. It is hard to believe that a lodge was once located at this spot.
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- A classic view of Vernal Fall from the Mist Trail. The trail climbs across slabs of granite that drop steeply down into the river. In wider areas, the cliffs along the area are filled with large boulders and thick grass, watered by the perpetual spray from the powerful falls.
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- Further down stream from the falls is my favorite vantage point to see Vernal Fall. From here Liberty Cap can be seen rising up behind Vernal. The Merced River makes a torrential passage below the falls, surging over rocks and tumbling over massive rapids. This spot used to be an “official” site, with a trail leading to it an interpretive displays but they were removed some time int he 1990’s.
Hike Mt. Shasta 
Thanks for sharing this! I’ve been to Yosemite several times, but not on this trail. Was it very busy when you visited?
I hope you get a chance to hike this one sometime! I have hiked this one a lot and usually, by Yosemite Valley standards, there aren’t to many people on most of the hike. Glacier Point is obviously busy but once you are on the trail, you will largely be on your own, with intermittent hikers along the way. Illilouette Creek tends to collect folks, since it is a good place to stop for lunch and slide on the waterslides but it is never choked with people. It gets fairly lonesome again until you reach Nevada Falls, then it is a zoo again. However, I firmly believe that crowds are not a detraction from hikes like this. The scenery is too grand to be lessened by more people enjoying it.
Thank you, Bubba, for Yosemite Week. Your photos and commentary were excellent, and they allowed me vicarious enjoyment of a beautiful place which I may not be able to visit again in my lifetime. I really do appreciate all you do to keep our natural wonders and beauties in the consciousness of your readers.
Dorinda Thompson