Castle Crags

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Seldom Seen: Confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek

Posted by bubbasuess on December 23, 2013

Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Trinity Divide. Tagged: Castle Crags, Castle Creek, Mount Shasta, Sacramento River. 12 Comments

Trinity Divide, Castle Crags - April2012 023 copy (Custom)

The spring thaw swells Castle Creek and the Sacramento River.

Few mountains in Northern California have the stark and sudden contrast from its surroundings as the Castle Crags. Erupting from the vast forests of the Sacramento River Canyon, the ramparts and towers of the Castle Crags are spectacular by any metric. Yet, despite their incredible geography and stunning appearance, it is often difficult to find good vistas from which to observe them. Certain points in Castella and few vantages from within Castle Crags State Park offer good places to view the granite splendor. Unfortunately these generally lack a certain elan, since they are basically just large breaks in the forest canopy. Conversely, there are several great places such as the Girard Ridge Lookout and Castle Peak, that permit the dedicated to enjoy staggering views of the Crags but they require hikes or long drives. While they are certainly worth the effort, if time is at a premium then they require more investment than may be realistic. However, there is one spot that is easy to reach that offers a truly spectacular view of the Castle Crags. Within earshot of I-5 and requiring only a short walk on a paved road, the confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek may be the finest view of the Crags’ granite chaos. It is a source of continued amazement that such an incredible perspective on one of the Northern California’s most spectacular formations remains so seldom seen.

Trinity Divide, Castle Crags - Oct2009 021 (Custom)

Fall at the confluence.

Although there are several great places to see the Crags, I am convinced that the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento River is the best. At the outset, this view is a variation on the classic aspect most people see from Castella. The great knot of soaring granite towers and massive cliffs are all present including Battle Mountain and Mount Hubris. Six-Toed Rock and Castle Dome are also easy to identify. However, what makes the confluence viewpoint excellent is the presence of so much water, a resource that is often hard to appreciate in the Crags. At the confluence the Sacramento narrows a bit and runs very deep. Small rapids upstream and downstream from the confluence add interest to the location. Castle Creek, on the other hand, runs through a rocky channel with room to spread out and splits into a few different troughs en route to joining California’s longest and largest river. It should be noted that Castle Creek is not an insignificant stream. It is possibly the largest tributary of the Upper Sacramento River. It has a large watershed that includes the Seven Lakes Basin and the hidden lakes tucked away in the mysterious Grey Rocks. The real highlight of these two waterways is where they meet. Castle Creeks is 4 or 5 feet higher than the Sacramento so at the confluence the creek tumbles over a short but broad cascade in order to contribute its waters to the river. Over all of this presides the majestic Castle Crags. Though seldom seen, the view from the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento River is magnificent and not easily forgotten.

The confluence does not require a long hike or walk. Due to its ease of access, it works much better as a place to sit, relax and read or to have a picnic or other such time with friends and family. It is also possible to swim in the river here though obviously great care should be taken if doing so. It should be noted that access to this spot passes through a residential area so respect for those who live in the area is due. Still, despite the residential setting passed through to get to the confluence, once there the road and homes fade away and all one can see is the glory of granite turrets, rushing rivers, and the great expanse of wonderful river rock. It may be seldom seen but it is stupendous nonetheless.

As always, if anyone is curious about details in getting to the confluence, feel free to send me an email and I will give directions.

Four seasons at the confluence:

: Winter at the confluence. Castle Dome on the far right.

: The confluence of the Sacramento and Castle Creek. Castle Dome on the far right.

: Summer at the confluence. Castle Dome on the far right.

Trinity Divide, Many Lakes Mountain - June2012 048 copy (Custom)

Mount Shasta stands regally beyond the Cliff Lakes, the headwaters of the South Fork of the Sacramento River.

The Sacramento River is California’s longest and largest river. It draws its water from more than five major mountain ranges: The North Coast Range, the Klamath Mountains, the Cascade Range, the Warner Mountains and the enormous Sierra Nevada. Out of this vast territory, the place where the Sacramento River first rises up and begins its journey to San Francisco Bay is in the Trinity Divide (not to be confused with the nearby Trinity Alps). This is the highest subrange of the Klamath Mountains. It is in the Trinity Divide that the North, Middle and South Forks of the Sacramento emerge from extensive meadows and alpine lakes and flow through rugged canyons to combine their waters to form California’s greatest river. The Trinity Divide, though by no means a well-known mountain range, is one of the prettiest and most diverse ranges in Northern California. Mount Eddy and the Deadfall Basin, Porcupine Lake, the Seven Lakes Basin, the Castle Crags and the Castle Lake area are all incredibly scenic areas, most of which are blessed with incredible views of mighty Mount Shasta. Though most of these areas lack formal wilderness designation, they are all still primeval lands both wild and rugged.

While studying the Trinity Divide on a map a couple of months ago, I was amazed how much of an incredible backpacking loop is composed of pre-existing trails. By combining existing sections of the Pacific Crest Trail, the Sisson-Callahan Trail and the Lake Siskiyou Trail 85% of a giant loop already exists. In other words, 34 miles of what would ultimately amount to an approximately 40 mile loop already exists. That such a spectacularly epic loop is nearly in existence already but remains unexploited is surprising. Considering the length, remoteness yet ease of access and absolutely magnificent scenery, this loop could be a major draw for the Mount Shasta area. It could easily become a destination trail, attracting backpackers from other parts of California and out of state to come and enjoy a sublime loop through great terrain and nearly constant stupendous views. The significance of the trail’s relationship to the genesis of California’s largest and longest river should not be underestimated either.

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Views from sections of the Headwaters Loop

The loop would presumably begin at Lake Siskiyou and head west up the Sacramento for nearly two miles. At the confluence with the North Fork of the Sacramento, the route would begin climbing up the Sisson-Callahan Trail. This trail ascends the length of the North Fork through a rugged and wild canyon to a sprawling meadow complex in the shadow of Mount Eddy. From there the trail climbs steeply up the flank of Mount Eddy to the divide between the Deadfall Basin and the North Fork Canyon. This is the only rigorous climb of the entire loop. After a quick side trip up to the staggering views at the summit of Mount Eddy (for my money, the finest vista in Northern California), the trail drops down through gorgeous Deadfall Basin, passing the stunning lakes as it heads down to its junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. Once on the PCT the loop heads south along the spine of the Trinity Divide. Views of Mount Shasta, the Trinity Alps and the Divide itself are incredible. Highlights along the way include Toad and Porcupine Lakes, the latter nestled in a stunning granite cirque at the foot of pyramidal Porcupine Peak. From there it is a few easy miles through excellent scenery to Gumboot Saddle.

Beyond Gumboot, the trail continues south a little further, still graced with amazing views, until it reaches another saddle between the Mumbo Basin and the Seven Lakes Basin. The larger Seven Lakes Basin is an easy side trip. The PCT then turns east and begins its long descent down the great central rib of the Trinity Divide that culminates in tremendous fashion at the Castle Crags. Views from this section of the trail continue to amaze and now include the Seven Lakes Basin far below the trail, the ragged Grey Rocks, the Castle Crags and Lassen Peak and the southernmost Cascades far to the east. As the trail proceeds eastward, the views of the Castle Crags continue to get better and better until it is an overwhelming presence. After traversing the headwaters basin of the North Fork of Castle Creek, a use trail leads over the shoulder of Castle Peak and into the Castle Lake Basin. Here backpackers can enjoy the splendid view of Mount Shasta from Heart Lake. It is then time to make the final descent down to Lake Siskiyou, completing the loop.

The Headwaters Loop. The dotted lines indicate places where there is no trail or road.

Only two sections of this proposed loop have not been constructed. The most significant portion is the leg descending from Castle Lake down to Lake Siskiyou. This consists of approximately 4.5 miles. The precise length would depend on which of the numerous routes the trail could take. There is currently an old road running down the east side of Castle Lake Creek and this would likely be incorporated into the trail until it intersected the road from Lake Siskiyou up to Castle Lake. From there a number of possibilities open up. Probably the most difficult to construct but by far the most scenic option would be to route the trail through the canyon carved by Scott Camp Creek. Currently trailless, few venture into this canyon which has some surprisingly rugged cliffs. The other lacuna in the loop is from Lake Siskiyou’s inlet up the Sacramento River to the confluence with the North Fork. Several use trails already exist along some of this section and one of them could easily be absorbed into the loop. Extending the path along the Sacramento River to the North Fork would complete the loop. Due to the scenic qualities of the river in this area, this section of trail would probably become popular with hikers who are not looking to hike the circuit around the Sacramento’s headwaters but would just want to enjoy a beautiful and scenic trail.

I plan on exploring some of the areas where there are gaps in the headwaters loop and I will post some thoughts and images along with my assessments regarding the best option for filling in these missing portions of the epic loop around the Sacramento River headwaters loop. Does this loop look interesting to anyone else? Any feedback is appreciated!

Mount Shasta Area Waterfalls: Trinity Divide Waterfalls

Posted by bubbasuess on November 6, 2013

Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, Trinity Divide, Waterfalls. Tagged: Burstarse Falls, Castle Crags, Faery Falls, Mount Shasta, Root Creek Falls. 2 Comments

Trinity Divide, Castle Crags - April2011 050 copy (Custom)

Root Creek Falls and mighty Castle Dome.

The Trinity Divide, the large mountain range directly to the west of Mount Shasta is a treasure trove for outdoor enthusiasts. Blessed with lakes, rivers and spectacular rocky cliffs, the range is also home to some fantastic waterfalls. Though none of the waterfalls in the Trinity Divide are as well-known as their cousins along the Sacramento and McCloud Rivers, they are still gorgeous cataracts. What sets the falls in the Trinity Divide apart from those in the river areas is the grand setting in which they are found. Specifically, the majority of the waterfalls in the Trinity Divide occur in the magnificent granite jumble of the Castle Crags. Just as the erosion resistant granite has contributed to the majestic waterfalls in Yosemite, it has also resulted in some memorable cataracts in the Crags. The biggest difference between the waterfalls in Yosemite and the Castle Crags is the formers vast watersheds that funnel tremendous amounts water over the falls. Though the Crags cataracts may lack volume they are still exquisite examples of plunging water. It is worth mentioning that while there are only a couple of named waterfalls in the Castle Crags, there are many, many more tucked away in the hidden folds of the Crags. Of course, the waterfalls in the Castle Crags are not the only ones in the Trinity Divide. During the thaw there are excellent cascades tumbling down the rocky cliffs that line the numerous cirques scattered around the Divide. Still, outside of the Castle Crags there is only one other named waterfall in the Trinity Divide. Faery Falls is a fine cataract tucked inside Ney Springs Canyon, just north of the Crags. Still, even if the falls of the Trinity Divide are focused in the Castle Crags, they remain some of the most spectacular waterfalls in Northern California and deserve far more attention than they receive.

Lower Burstarse Falls

Lower Burstarse Falls.

When folks talk about waterfalls in the Castle Crags, Burstarse Falls is naturally a subject of conversation. Yet the large waterfall’s lower sibling somehow fails to garner any mention in its own right. Lower Burstarse Falls (officially this falls has no name but this seems the logical choice) deserves better than this. Nearly 30 feet high, Burstarse Creek rockets itself over a short cliff and falls into classic pool at its base. In some ways it is reminiscent of the waterfalls found in the Appalachians: short, slender, graceful and beautiful. It is a fine sight, worthy of a hike in its own right. However, it is only a part of the greater whole since it must be passed en route to Burstarse Falls. In truth, it is one of many waterfalls that line Burstarse Creek below Burstarse Falls, though it is by far the largest and most obvious. Surprisingly, for all of its anonymity in the shadow of the larger waterfall, a surprising number of people go no further than this cataract, thinking they had found Burstarse Falls!

Burstarse Falls

Trinity Divide, Castle Crags - April2011 030 copy (Custom)

Burstarse Falls.

Hidden away in a narrow granite amphitheater, Burstarse Falls is one of the Castle Crags’ finest waterfalls. About 80 feet high, the falls are a slender, rainy cataract. Somehow, despite the seemingly slight nature of the falls they manage to retain a tremendous amount of power. Formed when Burstarse Creek hurtles itself off of a tall granite cliff with great momentum. Rather than cascading down the cliff, Burstarse Falls is a complete free fall. This is what results in the rainy nature of the falls. About three-fourths of the way down the fall, the water crashes into a rocky bench and breaks apart into numerous cascades. There is a bit of a pool at the base of the falls but it is not a great one for soaking in. The tight confines of the amphitheater make viewing Burstarse Falls a more secluded, intimate experience. The cliffs looming so closely overhead magnifies the energy and ferocity of the waterfall. Coupled with the exciting scramble up the narrow canyon to the falls and the many fine cataracts along the way, the hike to Burstarse Falls is possibly the Mount Shasta area’s best spring hike. The route along the Pacific Crest Trail is low enough to be free of snow far earlier than most of the trails in the area. Of course, spring is the best time to view the falls because Burstarse Creek has a very limited watershed. Though it usually has a meager flow throughout the year, the spring thaw is the best time to see the falls at their full fury.

Root Creek Falls

Trinity Divide, Castle Crags - April2011 053 copy (Custom)

Ought-to-be-iconic Root Creek Falls.

Almost totally unknown beyond a few locals until a few years ago, Root Creek Falls still remains a fairly obscure waterfall. It does not get mentioned in any waterfall guidebooks nor does the Root Creek Trail garner a lot of attention. What is passed over though is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Northern California. Like all the waterfalls in the Castle Crags, it does not have a high volume, instead taking on a graceful, wispy appearance. However, what Root Creek Falls lacks in power it makes up for in form and setting. Composed of a series of cataracts falling over five tiers, the falls charge through a narrow slot. This alone would make the falls a beautiful sight. What sets it apart and makes a truly magnificent waterfall is the presence of mighty Castle Dome looming high overhead. The polished granite dome seems to have been wrenched out of Yosemite and dropped into the Mount Shasta area. It completes a wondrous picture where dome and falls combine together to form what ought to be one of the most iconic images of the North State. Instead it remains largely anonymous, a favorite of locals who make the easy hike to the falls. For those looking for a bit more adventure, it is possible to scramble up to the waterfall and enjoy gorgeous sapphire pools that lie at the base of some of the tiers, again bringing to mind some of the spots in California’s most famous national park.

Faery Falls

Faery Falls.

A little further north from the Castle Crags, Ney Springs Creek begins at Little Castle Lake and races through a remote and wild canyon. The lowest portions of the canyon once hosted a thriving health resort in the 19th century. Closed long ago and reduced to ruins, it is hard to imagine the bustling activity that once surrounded the area. A series of springs give rise to the resort, which was located on the banks of Ney Springs Creek but a short distance up the canyon is beautiful Faery Falls. This was surely one of the great attractions of the resort and most have seen considerable visitation while it was in operation. Today the resort is gone and nature is reclaiming what little of it remains, yet Faery Falls flows as it always has. The falls are easily accessed on an old road that is, like the resort, slowly being taken over by the surrounding forest. About 40 feet high, the waterfall is formed when the creek pours over a rocky cliff band that cuts across the canyon. A little higher up the canyon this band of cliffs is now a popular rock climbing spot. The cataract first falls through a short but very narrow slot. It then hits a broad, rocky bench and breaks apart into two large waterfalls. When the creek is full, it is a powerful sight, amplified by the tight canyon. When the water level is low, one of the two lower sections, typically the one on the left, disappears. Thankfully, given the lake and meadow that feed the creek in the high country, Faery Falls has a much longer season than its neighbors in the Castle Crags and can be enjoyed well into the summer.

Wagon Creek Falls

Rising from headwaters in remote Eddy Bowl on Mount Eddy, Wagon Creek is a large, beautiful creek. The northernmost tributary of the Sacramento River, it makes a precipitous descent down the east side of Mount Eddy, forming one of the most striking displays of white water in the Mount Shasta area. Wagon Creek Falls is a 50 foot plunge through a notch in a nearly vertical serpentine wall. It is perhaps the most classically formed waterfall in the region. However, it is by no means the only cataract on Wagon Creek. Several other notable falls and cascades are formed on the way down to Mills Meadow. Some of these, though not true waterfalls, are striking in their own right. The drawback to these beautiful cataracts is their remoteness. These are some of the hardest waterfalls to reach in the area and certainly the hardest to reach that are not on Mount Shasta itself. However, for those who make the journey out to Wagon Creek Falls, they will not be dissappointed!

Other cataracts on Wagon Creek: