Hike Mt. Shasta

Exploring the Mount Shasta Region

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Cut Into The Mountain’s Heart: The Great Canyons Of Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on February 19, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 3 Comments

Mount Shasta’s Ash Creek Falls pours into the lower half of Ash Creek Canyon.

Mount Shasta is justly known as a towering, glacier-clad volcano, standing in grand isolation high above all the other peaks in the region. Tall and isolated, it can be seen from over 150 miles distant, looming high above California’s Central Valley. It is a destination for hikers and mountaineers, both seeking grand vistas and incredible beauty, which they find in abundance. However, one of Mount Shasta’s most spectacular features is usually overlooked but offers stunning scenery for those who seek them out.

There are many canyons running down the flanks of Mount Shasta but 5 stand out above all the rest in terms of size and beauty. These are Bolam Creek Canyon, Whitney Creek Canyon, Diller Canyon, Mud Creek Canyon and Ash Creek Canyon. These five are wider, deeper and and generally more massive than any of the others. It should also come as no surprise that 4 of the 5 of these house the largest waterfalls on Mount Shasta. Exploring them offers incredible hiking, great adventure and beauty that is rarely equaled in this part of California.

In many ways, the canyons are similar geologically but their perspectives on Mount Shasta, the waterfalls in them, their size and scale all combine to give each one a unique appearance. Each is worthy of exploration, both on the mountain and also here on this website. The following is a brief review of the 5 major canyons that grace the flanks of Mount Shasta.

 

Bolam Creek Canyon

A gorgeous view of the upper portion of Bolam Creek Canyon.

Though most of the canyons on Mount Shasta suffer from some level of obscurity, Bolam Creek Canyon is perhaps the most obscure. The causes for this are many, but I think the two most important reasons are the fact that it is located on the edge of Mount Shasta’s east side, which is the most isolated and least visited side of Mount Shasta. This is compounded by the fact that there are no trails accessing the canyon. The North Gate Trail does pass within a mile of the trail but nearly all the hikers on that route are headed toward the summit, not a sandy off trail jaunt through a maze of white bark pine snags.

What winds up being lost in the mists of anonymity is one of the most magnificent scenes on Mount Shasta. Bolam Creek Canyon boasts fantastic views of Mount Shasta’s alpine heights along with one of the mountain’s finest waterfalls. The canyon itself is about 400-500 feet deep. Like most of the canyons on Mount Shasta, the walls of Bolam Creek Canyon are loose layers composed of sand, ash, cinders and other volcanic detritus. They tend to be V-shaped, obviously unexcavated by glaciers. However, like most of the canyons, once again, they are not disconnected from the glaciers on Mount Shasta. The Bolam Glacier, visible high overhead, releases its meltwater to feed Bolam Creek. The creek flows through the canyon, entering it by plunging over a cliff in a beautiful waterfall before cascading steeply into the depths of the canyon.

The waterfall in particular deserves a brief note. The canyon was once the home of Coquette Falls, which was the primary route by which the meltwater from the Bolam Glacier flowed into the canyon. The current location of the falls was only a seasonal cataract. However, sometime between 2006 and 2010 (probably closer to the latter) there was a significant outburst from the glacier that blocked up Bolam Creek’s original channel. This caused the flow to reroute to its current configuration and the full volume of the glacier’s meltwater to flow over the new waterfall. Consequently, Coquette Falls dried up. The new waterfall is sometimes called Bolam Creek Falls but I am eager to break away from the somewhat mundane names that dominate Mount Shasta’s waterfalls. I think something along the lines of New Coquette Falls is more interesting and memorable.

New Coquette Falls. Note the band of erosion resistant rock that has caused the falls to form.
Peering down into the depths of Bolam Creek Canyon.

A glance downstream into the inaccessible depths of the canyon. The loose walls make travel into the canyon difficult.
A closer view of the falls.

Looking south into the Shasta Valley from the canyon rim.

Whitney Creek Canyon

Mount Shasta and Shastina peek out above Whitney Falls and Whitney Creek Canyon.

Whitney Creek Canyon is the smallest of Mount Shasta’s canyon. Carved by Whitney Creek, like nearby Bolam Creek, this waterway typically only flows in the heat of the summer, when the glaciers melt and the runoff flows swiftly off the mountain. Though shorter and shallower than Bolam Creek Canyon, they nonetheless exhibit similar characteristics. Both have sandy, sloped canyon walls with little rock extruding from the walls. Like its neighbor, the real highlight of Whitney Creek Canyon is the presence of Whitney Falls. Like all the major waterfalls on Mount Shasta, it is formed when the creek hits a band of erosion resistant rock. The water then plunges 200 feet into an isolated amphitheater. Whitney Falls is the most easily accessed of the waterfalls on the mountain, making it a popular hiking destination. However, it is important to watch whether there is water in Whitney Creek as is passes under Highway 97. If there is no water present, then it is unlikely that there is water flowing over the falls.

The cross-section of the Graham Lava Flow.

One feature unique to Whitney Creek Canyon is its proximity to the Graham Lave Flow. This means that the dark, craggy lava lines the western rim of the canyon. Not only does this give an unusual look to the canyon and enhance the wildness of the area, but it also reveals some fascinating geology. Downstream from Whitney Falls the creek has carved a course that, at one time, passed beneath the edge of the lava flow. Over time this area was undercut by the water and collapsed. Now it is possible to see the sandy layers beneath lava as well as the broken edges of where the lava gave way into the canyon. It is basically a giant cross-section view of a fresh lava flow. There may be other places to observe the internal structure of lava flows like this but if there are, this is still likely one of the easiest to get to.

The dark lava extends above Whitney Falls as well but the creek has only carved a shallow channel through this area. Consequently, the falls lie at the head of the canyon, not within it.

The summit of Mount Shasta and the broad north face of Shastina are seen above Whitney Falls and the head of Whitney Creek Canyon.
A closer view of Shastina and Whitney Falls

Whitney Creek flows through the isolated and difficult-to-reach depths of Whitney Creek Canyon.

The Shasta Valley spreads out to the north of Whitney Creek Canyon.
The large undercut of the Graham Lava Flow, which creates a cross-section view of the flow.

Diller Canyon

Looking up into the massive V-shaped upper portion of Diller Canyon.

Unusual in many respects, Diller Canyon is an outlier among the other chasms on Mount Shasta. Most notably, it is the only canyon on Shastina, Mount Shasta’s large satellite cone. It is also extends much further than most canyons on the mountain. It begins at the edge of Shastina’s eruption crater at nearly 11,500 feet and descends all the way down to approximately 5,000 feet. It is a single, linear chute from top to bottom. It is also the only one of the 5 canyons that does not have a significant waterfall in it. There are a couple of small cataracts (15-20 feet high) but that is all.

The upper reaches of Diller Canyon at sunset.

It’s character is different from the other canyons on Mount Shasta too. The other four canyons were formed by glacial runoff eroding their way through the loose ash and cinders that make up the lower flanks of Mount Shasta. Though Shastina does have a similar composition in some areas, Diller Canyon has glaciers and, consequently, no significant creek flowing through it (there is a small one during the spring thaw) but the canyon itself is much rockier than the other four. This is evident both in the presence of significant quantities of loose rocks but also in the rocky outcroppings that line the canyon rim. All of this combines to give Diller Canyon a far different appearance than the other canyons on Mount Shasta.

Diller Canyon is, by far, the most visible canyon on Mount Shasta. Prominently seen from much of the west side of Mount Shasta, the canyon has a distinct v-shape at its highest elevations but narrows down to a linear chute at its mid to lower elevations. Though many people don’t recognize Diller Canyon by name, it is among the most recognizable landmarks on the mountain.

A classic view up Diller Canyon
Inside the shallow inner gorge of Diller Canyon. Diller Canyon

One of the small, seasonal waterfalls inside Diller Canyon. Here it is frozen for the winter.
Looking downcanyon, toward China Mountain, highpoint of the Scott Mountains.

The shallow inner gorge of Diller Canyon.
The view north, across the canyon from the south rim.

Mud Creek Canyon

A staggering view of the massive, hoodoo-lined upper portion of Mud Creek Canyon.

Mud Creek Canyon is simply one of the most spectacular features, not just on Mount Shasta, but in all of Northern California. Longer, larger and deeper than all the other canyons on the mountain, it is a natural titan of staggering proportions. Reaching up to 1,500 feet deep in some place (averaging about 1,100 to 800 feet for much of its course) and extending over 6 miles down the flanks of Mount Shasta, it is a colossal gap that literally cuts into the heart of Mount Shasta. The head of Mud Creek Canyon is formed in massive Mud Creek Basin, the oldest exposed part of Mount Shasta. Here one will find what is likely the most complicated and chaotic geology on the mountain, where 3 of the mountain’s 4 major eruption cones meet. It is a twisted, colorful landscape that is capped by the small (in relation to the four major glaciers on Mount Shasta) Konwakiton Glacier. This is the source of Mud Creek, which flows through the length of the canyon and is the largest stream coming off of Mount Shasta.

Springs and meadows emerge from between the strata.

As noted, the geology of Mud Creek Canyon is fabulously complex. Not only do 3 eruption cones (each representing a different epoch of Mount Shasta’s activity) meet here but the landscape has been both scoured by glaciers and continuously eroded. A look up into Mud Creek Basin reveals a seemingly unending series of layers broken, uplifted and twisted, forming a jumbled collection of spires and crags. This is also the most colorful corner of Mount Shasta, with a variety of exposed rock types all exhibiting different hues of red, purple, orange, yellow and gray. Below the upper basin, Mud Creek Canyon resembles the other canyons on the mountain (excepting Diller Canyon) in its composition. It is formed of loose ash and cinders, with the addition of sporadic large rocks punctuating the canyon walls. The canyon is still seeking its angle of repose and the sound of rocks clattering down the steep walls is common. Like the other canyons, but on a much grander scale, the loose aggregate of Mud Creek Canyon is divided into strata. Between many of these water flows through the layers. Where the canyon has cut away the strata, the water flows out into the open. Some are marked by large wet spots while others are the source of verdant meadows clinging to the side of the canyon walls. It is a fascinating and majestic spectacle.

Telephoto view of Camel Rock from over a mile away.

One of Mud Creek Canyon’s most interesting features is the presence of large hoodoos. Such formations are not uncommon is volcanic geology but Mud Creek Canyon has some notably large and prominent ones. Unfortunately, these are only viewed from certain angles since the canyon itself is fairly remote and one must climb out onto the rim in order to observe them. The hoodoos are located on the walls of the upper canyon, but below the expanse of Mud Creek Basin. Though the base of the hoodoos seems stable, the upper portions of the towers appear to evolve rapidly. At time they feature balances rocks and just a couple years later, these rocks have toppled. Though many of them are quite interesting, one in particular stands out, which I have dubbed “Camel Rock”. This tower is not a traditional hoodoo but the remnants of one that has now collapsed. In its place stands a narrow neck of rock with a large, flat boulder balanced precariously on top. It is so named because it resembles New Mexico’s famed rock of the same name. It is hard to assess just how large the rock is but I think 30 – 40 feet high is not unrealistic. It is likely to topple at any time given the rapid rate at which the walls of Mud Creek Canyon evolve.

Lastly, Mud Creek Canyon features the highest concentration of large waterfalls on Mount Shasta. Two in particular are well over 100 feet high but the lower canyon also has a few large waterfalls that are over 25 feet in height. While these are beautiful and worthy destinations of exploration, it is the upper two falls that are the pinnacle of waterfall beauty in Mud Creek Canyon. The highest falls, Konwakiton Falls, pours out of Mud Creek Basin into the uppermost reaches of the canyon. At times parts of the falls are obscured by piles of debris. Sometimes the debris is flushed away by heavy runoff. The other waterfall is Mud Creek Falls, one of the classic falls on Mount Shasta and a contender for the mountain’s most beautiful.

The confluence of Mud and Clear Creeks.

The sheer size of the canyon distinguishes it from the rest of the canyons on Mount Shasta. It also has far more distinct sections than the other canyons. The uppermost canyon is high, treeless and filled with giant hoodoos. Below that, the canyons deepens and doubles in width. It is through here that the extensive collections of springs burst from the stratified canyon walls. This section ends at Mud Creek Falls. Below the falls the canyons widens yet again, as Mud Creek is here joined by Clear Creek. This is the only major confluence of creeks in the depths of one of Mount Shasta’s canyons. Beyond the confluence, Mud Creek Canyon narrows, but still maintains a depth of around 800 feet. A few more notable waterfalls punctuate the creek.

All these features taken together, and given the massive scale of the canyon and its wild character, Mud Creek is easily one of the most scenic waterways in Northern California.

The massive upper section of Mud Creek Canyon.
Konwakiton Falls

Hoodoos lining the upper canyon.
Camel Rock

The middle, wider section of Mud Creek Canyon. Note the water seeping from the exposed strate.
A look up above Mud Creek Falls into the middle portion of Mud Creek Canyon.

The view from the east side across the widest section of Mud Creek Canyon.
A similar view of the canyon in early summer.

The confluence of Mud and Clear Creeks.
Mud Creek Falls

Mount Shasta peeks out above the lowest section of Mud Creek Canyon.
The lowest of the large waterfalls on Mud Creek Canyon.

Ash Creek Canyon

Spectacular Ash Creek Falls, the highest waterfall on Mount Shasta.

Ash Creek Canyon is located on the remote east side of Mount Shasta. Long and deep, it is the second largest canyon on the mountain. Though it is not the equal of nearby Mud Creek Canyon, the canyon carved by Ash Creek remains one of the most spectacular features on Mount Shasta. It boasts many excellent features. Chief among them is awesome Ash Creek Falls, which is the tallest, and likely the most beautiful, waterfall on the mountain. At about 350 feet high, it is a glorious sight, with Mount Shasta looming majestically behind it. The waterfall divides the canyon into two distinct sections. The lower, v-shaped section resembles most of the other canyons on the mountain. The upper section has a similar composition, consisting of ash and cinders, but is larger, wider and, most significantly, graced with the massive sheet of ice that is the Wintun Glacier. This is the third largest glacier in California (after the nearby Hotlum and Whitney Glaciers on Mount Shasta’s northeast and north side).

The canyon consists of two parts. The upper part is largely above tree line and is occupied by the Wintun Glacier at its highest reaches. The walls of the canyon are sand and cinder like the other canyons on Mount Shasta but the lack of trees and the presence of the glacier give it a distinct, wild feel that is altogether different from the other canyons on the mountain. The transition from the upper to lower canyon is Ash Creek Falls. Below the waterfall the canyon is more like the other canyons on the north side of the mountain. The trees crowd the canyon rim and the walls are steeply sloped loose cinders and rocks. However, here on the wetter, east side of Mount Shasta, the forest is much, much thicker and in some places consists of old growth Shasta red firs.

All these features make Ash Creek Canyon one of the more beautiful spots on Mount Shasta. Taken together, the canyon of Ash Creek deserves far more renown that it gets, even with its superlative waterfall.

A view toward the summit of Mount Shasta, through the upper section of Ash Creek Canyon. Note the Wintun Glacier at the head of the canyon.
The upper part of Ash Creek Falls is visible at the transition from the upper and lower canyon.

Mount Shasta and Ash Creek Falls.
A wider view showing the scale of the width of Ash Creek Canyon.

Gazing down into the nearly accessible interior of Ash Creek Canyon.
The classic V-shaped lower section of Ash Creek Canyon.

Mount Shasta GIF Gallery

Posted by bubbasuess on February 16, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 4 Comments

Over the years, it has been my focus to capture Mount Shasta in images and I have not ventured much beyond that in terms of other media. However, periodically over the last couple of years I have dipped my toe into making GIFs. They are essentially all low-grade time lapses. I have not had the patience or knowledge to make true, high quality time lapses but the GIFs give an idea of what the scene looked and felt like. That really is the essence of what I have sought to do with the entire Hike Mt Shasta website: to give those who come here a sense of place through images and the written word. This short little animations are just one more tool to accomplish that goal.

The thought occurred to me that I had finally accumulated enough animated images that I ought to gather them all together in one place and make them easier to find, for those so inclined. I hope that these capture, in some small way, the spirit of awe and majesty that is expressed through Mount Shasta!


This is probably my favorite GIF I have made. It was an epic sunrise full of color and awesome clouds. Note the shadow cast by the lenticular in the upper right. It is awesome testimony to how large the clouds are that the shadow is cast in the sky. This was one of my favorite sunrises of 2019.

 


There was nothing particularly noteworthy in the sky or anything else at this scene but the scene itself was epic enough. Looking south at the head the upper end of Bolam Creek Canyon, the Bolam Glacier clings to Mount Shasta’s heights. New Coquette Falls flows into the canyon from the side, pouring over a band of dense rock that has resisted erosion. Things don’t get too much more epic than this.

 


An awesome sunset on Mount Shasta viewed from the west. I love how the sunrises start at the summit of the mountain and then move downward while sunsets start at the base of the mountain and move upward. The latter leaves the last little bit of light clinging to the summit as the sun moves beyond the horizon and then the light just fades away. Magnificent.

 


Another sunset, this time viewed from the northwest. From here Mount Shasta looks less like a singular mountain and more like a collection of high peaks in a mountain range. This is in part due to the presence of Shastina, which dominates the lower left half of this frame. Its crags, as well as Diller Canyon, add a lot of depth to this perspective.

 


A spectacular morning at Lake Siskiyou, with a trio of lenticulars over Mount Shasta. The reflection wasn’t perfect but I was not complaining. This collection of clouds did not seem like they were going to amount to much but right before the light came they all coalesced into the formation as seen here.

 


A great, colorful morning at Lake Siskiyou with some awesome lenticulars over Mount Shasta. Aside from the awesome clouds, the most memorable aspect of this morning was the way the light bounced off of the high clouds and made the whole area glow. This is especially visible on Mount Shasta itself. No direct sunlight hit the mountain but the mountain lights up nonetheless.

 


Yet another morning at Lake Siskiyou. This sunrise had a nice reflection in the water and a full lake, so there was not bathtub ring visible. Though this animation is short, it gives a good example of how the sunlight creeps across the sky as the sun comes up.

 


This was a sunset I witnessed from Girard Ridge, south of Dunsmuir. I was there to try to capture a night image of Mount Shasta with the Neowise comet. The sunset itself proved to be pretty interesting and, though I don’t like man-made objects in my images, I have to confess the lights on I-5 did add a lot of interest to this scene. If you look carefully, you can spot lights descending Everitt Memorial Highway on Mount Shasta too. The change in brightness once the sun set was due to my adjusting the settings on my camera.

 


This sunset on Mount Shasta was graced by a nice lenticular wave. Not only is this a good example of how the light fades upwards but it also gives a good sense of how the waves are constantly in flux when they appear over the mountain. Overall, a pretty awesome sequence.

 


This scene was captured from McCloud, south of Mount Shasta. The cloud was a lenticular and that was more evident when viewed from the west. From the south the lens-shaped cloud could still be seen but its rougher, chaotic edge where it dissipated dominated this perspective.

 


This animation is short and has a bit of a lurch because of the camera shifting but it was an epic scene. What more can I say?

 


Mount Shasta was not very visible for this event but the way the lenticulars clouded up and then casted off the extra cloud was pretty awesome. The sequence captured here was the third of three that I witnessed as the sun was coming up.

 


This particular animation was intended to document the way the wave over the mountain and the disk above it sloughed off a corresponding smaller cloud and smaller disk. I have never seen a formation like this nor this kind of behavior where twin segments separated themselves from the main clouds.

 


This was the first GIF I made for Hike Mt Shasta. it was short and had some camera lurch but it was only intended to be an experiment to see if such an animation were possible. A bit of history, this one!

2021 Winter Hiking Round Up

Posted by bubbasuess on February 14, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Off Season Trails, Winter Trails. 2 Comments

Mount Shasta and lenticular clouds viewed from the Lake Siskiyou Trail.

The winter season of 2020-2021 has been with us for a few months now. Things started off pretty slowly, with some rain here and there. I nice snow came through on Christmas day and stuck. The temperatures were low enough for the snow to linger for a while but it eventually melted off. Then, towards the end of January a heavy storm came through, leaving over 3 feet in some inhabited areas, a little less in town. Rain fell heavily in the Mount Shasta’s rain shadow as well. Now we are halfway through February, which means there is only a month and a half of “winter” left, though we know April can be winterlike at times. With a lot of snow still on the ground, it is high time for many of us to start feeling the pinch of cabin fever and we want to get outside.

Fortunately, the Mount Shasta area’s geography makes it possible for numerous trails to be snow-free in the winter time. The volcano rises out of low valley that lies between the high mountain areas of the Cascade Range and Klamath Mountains. The valley floor itself is low enough that it often escapes the snow that falls at higher elevations. The rivers then rush south, falling lower in elevation still and avoid even more snow. Yet, too the north lies the rain shadow of Mount Shasta. Rather than great conifer forests, the area is desert, thanks to the mountain wringing moistures from the storms that move through. Here, the snow falls infrequently and the trails that explore this area offer hikers great views, lots of sunshine and a strikingly different kind of environment from the alpine areas immediately to the south.

Whatever you are looking for in a winter trail, it is hard to find a more diverse and spectacular setting than those around Mount Shasta!

The following are all articles that discuss off-season hiking opportunities in Mount Shasta. They can also be accessed from the “trails” drop down menu. Click to enlarge all images.

Three Winter Trails Near Mount Shasta City

Mount Shasta City is blessed with a number of great paths within and just outside of its city limits. Three of the best are the Box Canyon, Ney Springs and Spring Hill Trail. These offer solitude, Mount Shasta Vistas, unique history, spectacular geography and even some excellent waterfalls. These all lie just minutes outside of town. Also, don’t forget that Mount Shasta City has some great short trails right in town! Read more here.

Box Canyon of the Sacramento River.
Inside the Box Canyon of the Sacramento
Faery Falls at high water.
Rocky Point on the Spring Hill Trail.

Winter Hikes On The Lake Siskiyou Trail

The Lake Siskiyou Trail is an incredible recreational resource just a couple minutes outside of Mount Shasta City. During the summer and fall, a loop trail encircles the lake. However, in winter the seasonal bridges over the Sacramento River are removed. While the loop can’t be hiked without fording the river (extremely dangerous after storms and during high runoff), several sections of the trail still make great out and back hikes. They feature beautiful forests, the lake itself and incredible views. Read more here.

Mount Eddy at the Sacramento River inlet.
Hiking along South Shore
Views from North Shore.
December

Winter Hikes On The Sacramento River

Most people in California think of the Sacramento River as the wide, winding waterway that lazily flows through the Central Valley. Here just below the headwaters, however, it is a swiftly flowing mountain river. Deep in its canyon, the lower elevation means it is often free of snow and the trails are easily accessed. Hiking along the river in winter is a treat that offers a taste of wild mountains for minimal effort. Read more here.

Hedge Creek Falls
Behind Hedge Creek Falls
Rapids Along the River Trail.
Along the Sacramento River Trail.

Winter Hikes In The Shasta Valley

North of Mount Shasta, the desert landscapes of the Shasta Valley offer a strikingly different environment than what is found along most trails in the region. The only conifers here are junipers and sagebrush is ubiquitous. For those that like the desert, the beauty of this area needs no explanation. For those less familiar, there is ample wildlife, beautiful rock formations and magnificent 360 degree views, crowned by some of the best views of Mount Shasta to be found anywhere. Unfortunately, part of the Yellow Butte Trail has been fenced off. There is still a lot of interesting terrain to explore on the Butte but be aware of land boundaries. Read more here.

Mount Shasta from the Haystack.
Herd Peak, Sheep Rock and Yellow Butte
Pluto Cave
Mount Shasta rises above Pluto Cave

Winter Hikes In The Shasta Valley Wildlife Refuge

At the northern end of the Shasta Valley lies a large parkland administered by the State of California. The Shasta Valley Wildlife Refuge was once a working ranch but is now a haven for a variety of wildlife, especially birds. It is also a refuge for hikers looking for incredible vistas. Though it can be closed at times during winter, there are still opportunities to explore it and once it is reopened completely, it is a place of great beauty, beckoning to be explored! Read more here.

Mount Shasta reflects in a pool by Steamboat Mountain.
Looking north toward the Siskiyous
The Cascade Crest seen from Trout Lake
Mount Shasta looms far beyond Trout Lake

Other parts of the Mount Shasta area are best hiked in spring, but often, during drier winters with less snow, some of these areas are also easily accessed during winter and offer stunning hikes for those looking for longer and more rugged outings. It must be noted that these areas have a higher chance of being inaccessible during snowy winters.

Spring Hikes In The Castle Crags

The Castle Crags are one of the most majestic mountain features in California. However, their lower elevation means they are often accessible when higher terrain is still smothered in snow. Still, the granite spires and great rock walls stand shoulder to shoulder with some of the most rugged terrain in the state. Though best hiked in spring, when the creeks are gushing and the weather, especially on the south side where most trails are found, is perfect, the winter may still be a good time to get out and enjoy this gorgeous mountain playground. Read more here.

Spires of the Crags
Mount Shasta seen from the Castle Crags

Spring Hikes On The Upper McCloud River

The McCloud River is one of the great attractions of the Mount Shasta area. With great fishing, a trio a awesome waterfalls, and beautiful forest surroundings, it is a popular destination. The waterfall along the river is a great hike and ought to be considered during winter if the access road is open. However, the McCloud River Trail follows the river for 15 miles and any section of this makes a great hike as long as snow is not covering the ground. Read more here.

Basalt gorge on the McCloud River
The McCloud River downstream from Cattle Camp.
McCloud River from the top of Middle Falls
Middle McCloud Falls

Spring Hikes On The Lower McCloud

The Lower McCloud River sees far less activity than the upper section. Separted by Hearst property and the McCloud Reservoir, the two areas are strikingly different. The upper section flows through volcanic terrain while the lower part passes through an outlier of the Klamath Mountain. The terrain is very rugged and can be difficult access during winter. However, when it can be reached, solitude a beautiful scenery await! Read more here.

Large cataract on the McCloud River
The McCloud River from the PCT crossing.
In the McCloud River Canyon
Squaw Valley Creek Falls

Crags of Light And Crazy Clouds: A Few Days Around Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on February 10, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Castle Crags, Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Lenticular Clouds, Mount Shasta. 3 Comments

A trio of “lenticulish” clouds surround Mount Shasta on a cold and beautiful morning.

The last few days have been busy for me and I wasn’t able to get out during the weekend as much as I wanted to. However, I was at times able to get out on the margins and still catch some sunrises, sunsets and do a little investigation in anticipation of one of my spring exploration projects. I submit these images humbly, stating upfront that there is no consistent theme to all of these images other than to show conditions around Mount Shasta over the last few days.


Firstly, I am quite pleased to find that the puddles in the Shasta Valley have finally returned! They were last present in the late winter and spring of 2019 but the weak winter a year later meant there were no puddles through 2020. Thankfully the hefty storm that sailed through in January of 2021 was sufficient to recharge the puddles and they seem to have some staying power for the time being. More precipitation will only serve to replenish the aquifer further and help them last deeper into the spring.


I have some significant explorations planned for this spring in the Little Castle Creek drainage. I have been doing some preliminary investigations to that end lately. On one early morning outing I was there in time for sunrise on the Castle Crags. This particular cliff it called Triple Top, and it towers 2,000 feet over Little Castle Creek. It still shocks me that such incredible features remain almost totally anonymous.

The crags mirror their distant cousins, the Sierra Nevada and reflect the light beautifully. John Muir said of the Sierra Nevada:

“Looking eastward from the summit of Pacheco Pass one shining morning, a landscape was displayed that after all my wanderings still appears as the most beautiful I have ever beheld. At my feet lay the Great Central Valley of California, level and flowery, like a lake of pure sunshine … And from the eastern boundary of this vast golden flower-bed rose the mighty Sierra, miles in height, and so gloriously colored and so radiant, it seemed not clothed with light but wholly composed of it, like the wall of some celestial city…. Then it seemed to me that the Sierra should be called, not the Nevada or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light. And after ten years of wandering and wondering in the heart of it, rejoicing in its glorious floods of light, the white beams of the morning streaming through the passes, the noonday radiance on the crystal rocks, the flush of the alpenglow, and the irised spray of countless waterfalls, it still seems above all others the Range of Light.”

It seems to me, given the granite composition of the Castle Crags and their similarity and distant familial connection to the Sierra, that they too may be called the Crags of Light. Or maybe I am being a little too dramatic. I don’t know.


Given Monday’s weather, Tuesday morning looked auspicious for some lenticulars and, as I had guessed, there were some over Mount Shasta. Mornings are always frustrating this time of year because positions with the best light are often harder to get to due to snow. With Castle Lake Road still being plowed, Lake Siskiyou seemed the best vantage from which to appreciate the clouds at dawn. Fortunately the lake was somewhat still and a reflection was possible. Not perfect, by any stretch but enough to allow the color in the sky to be appreciated in the gently rippling water. While the scene was not epic, it was quietly beautiful and a satisfying encounter with the mountain.

Looking closer to the sunrise on Tuesday morning.

It is interesting that Mount Shasta still looks a bit bare at this time. We have had a fair amount of snow over the past month, yet the mountain’s ridges are all exposed as if it had only been lightly inundated. I think this state reflects the fact that all the snow that fell was very dry powder. It has accumulated a good pack in some places but on the more exposed terrain, the wind whipped it off of the mountain very quickly.

Sunrise on Wednesday morning.

Wednesday morning brought another pretty sunrise. There were some vaguely “lenticulish” clouds around the mountain but by the time the sunlight brightened up the clouds, they had lost much of their definition. However, looking at the forecast for this evening, I am hopeful that something interesting may manifest.

As we are nearly a third of the way through February, I am eagerly anticipating March and the coming of spring. I have many places set to explore in the Castle Crags and that is the optimal time to get into those granite towers and explore the fountains and gardens that are hidden away in that jumble of spires. Until then, snowshoes and other winter sports (and some trips to Sonoma County and Prairie Creek Redwoods) will have to get me through the winter!

I really hope everyone is able to endure the rest of winter with warm hearts. The times we live in are deeply troubling but there is still much good in the world, great cause for hope, and spring draws nigh!

Lenticular Collapse On A Wild Morning (The Storm Of January 2021 Pt. III)

Posted by bubbasuess on February 1, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Lenticular Clouds, Mount Shasta. 1 Comment

Sunlight illuminates mist left over from a turbulent lenticular collapse.

Talk about one of your all-time storm fizzles. After the last wave of the dropped almost 3 feet of snow at my house, the next wave was supposed to leave another 2 feet or so. In reality, it has left little snow. It has rained significantly on Monday but this only accelerated the melting process of the snow that fell last week. With little forecasted for Tuesday and then sunshine after that, it appears that the last wave of the big storm has dissipated with a whimper. Consider that assessment the end of my reporting on the storm of January, 2021.

Wednesday
Monday

A lot of melting has already taken place!

Far more interesting was the sunrise I saw this morning. While everything from Black Butte south was cloudy, windy and generally stormy (though with little precipitation), in Mount Shasta’s rainshadow conditions were sublime. When I got up this morning I could see that it was clear north of the mountain and so I headed out, ultimately finding myself at the base of Sheep Rock. It was an absolutely stunning morning, spent in peaceful isolation. All I could hear was the breeze, a howling coyote and the sound of a distant train whistle. The clouds provided a magnificent performance in all directions.

Over the Whaleback.
Clouds high above Sheep Rock.

First light on China Mountain.
Interesting formations above Parks Peak.

Though they were silent, they were a joy to watch as they raced around the peaks surrounding the Shasta Valley, their shape in constant flux.

20210201_074434

20210201_074434

The clouds sailing over the Whaleback were lovely.

Despite the great scene all around the Shasta Valley, the most spectacular display was on Mount Shasta. When I arrived a lenticular cloud had seemingly collapsed into a misty wave. It washed down the northeastern flanks of the mountain, leaving a well formed lenticular still lingering on Mount Shasta. This process occurred a second time. The cloud seemed to gather, obscuring the lenticular and then collapsed again, once again washing down the northeastern slopes. I was ready this time and captured it as the mist flowed down the slopes.
I reckoned it might happen again and began taking images for a time lapse. Sure enough, the cloud gathered again and then washed down the mountain, leaving the lenticular revealed over Mount Shasta. It was a magnificent display to witness, let alone witness it thrice!

By the time the third iteration was done, the sun was up. I am not sure if that influenced the clouds behavior but it did not happen a fourth time. It was time to go. I silently said goodbye to the coyote, wherever it was and headed home. On the way I stopped and captured one more image of Mount Shasta with its messy lenticular from the road to Whitney Falls. After that, it was back to the stormy environs of home. I can’t wait for the remnants of the storm to pass and get a clear view of Mount Shasta once again. I am, however, thankful for all the snow. This isn’t such a bad winter after all!

The Storm Of January 2021, Part II

Posted by bubbasuess on January 29, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. Leave a comment

Mount Shasta makes a brief appearance in between waves of the storm.

The first wave of the storm of January 2021 was predicted to drop 1-3 inches. It ended up leaving almost 7 inches at my house. Now the second wave has finally passed and it lived up to its expectations, delivering a deep layer of snow that was approaching 3 feet by the time it was all done. As always, these kinds of storms are a lot of work but they are a lot of fun too. The seemingly endless succession of snowflakes and the gradually rising snow around the house is magical to watch and, when finally unleashed, a winter paradise for the kids. Needless to say, this is the kind of snow we need to build up a deep snowpack, keep the river’s running strong all summer and fill up our reservoirs. Thank the Lord for the provision!

When added up, from Tuesday through Friday, this storm was forecasted to drop a heap of snow. Tuesday night alone was stated to drop “a foot or more”. It delivered, dumping an impressive 20 inches at my house. It proceeded to accumulate another foot or more beyond that over Wednesday and Thursday. Fortunately this was a dry, powdery snow so clearing it was not as big a deal as it would have been if it had been more of the “Sierra cement” that Northern California mountains are infamous for. I’ll take 3 feet of dry powder over a foot of wet cement any day. Not only is clearing it easier but the snow does not shear branches off trees as readily and knock the power out.

The yard stick was inserted into a slope. By the time it leveled off, the snow was easily 20 inches.

Typically, I like to use my backyard as a “measuring rod” to show the snow depth. Normally the yard is an unspoiled space that illustrates the rising level of the snow. I still intend to do so, but this year the yard was despoiled by my oldest son. He has now discovered snowshoes and tramped across the yard multiple times en route to the gully and the wilds that lie behind our house.

Sunday
Sunday

Tuesday
Wednesday

Wednesday
Thursday

My house is on the divide between the Sacramento and Klamath watersheds. This means we are higher up and more exposed to the weather. Consequently, we always get more snow than in town and certainly more than the area to the north, where the rainshadow of Mount Shasta has sway over the weather.

Early morning with 20 fresh inches on the ground.
They haven’t plowed the street yet!

The cabin looking good in the snow.
Working on the driveway.

Kids heading out for some fun!
Digging a snow cave.

On Friday the system finally passed and the sky cleared for a few hours. It was a good chance to get out and see how the storm had impacted the land at the foot of the mountain. Conditions were beautiful but things were a mess. Snow clearing activity continued at a brisk clip all over town. Big rigs that went off the freeway were being removed. There was even a train that got stuck in the snow that had to be rescued. All in the normal course of events for a storm like this, I guess.

Morning in downtown Mount Shasta.

Whoops! Not the only truck to tip over…

I’m not sure how it happened but the train definitely needed some help.

The mountains themselves were quite white, but it was surprising how bare some areas still were. This is because of the wind whipping the snow off of exposed slops. This is particularly true of Shastina. In spite of this, Mount Shasta is as white as it has been all winter and is finally getting a nice, deep snowpack in most areas.

Cloudy conditions on Black Butte.

Mount Shasta, looking white but with exposed ridges still shorn clear by the wind.

As I write this, the snow should start falling again soon and another 2 feet is predicted to fall between now and the end of Monday. Sunday night and Monday look to be the peak so be sure to get resupplied before then. I’ll post another update sometime after Monday with a final look at how this storm as worked out. Round 3 looks to be a fun one!

The Storm Of January 2021, Part I

Posted by bubbasuess on January 26, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 3 Comments

Sunrise on Mount Shasta on Tuesday morning.

Thus far, the winter of 2020-2021 has been fairly moderate, with little precipitation. We had a good snow on Christmas day but since then we have had minimal precipitation. That has all been changing, however. A massive storm has been rolling into the western United States, being pushed inward by an even more massive storm developing over eastern Russia and the northwestern Pacific. The first phase of the storm passed through the Mount Shasta area on Sunday. It was forecasted to drop 1-3 inches of snow. It turned out that it doubled that, leaving over 6 inches in its wake by Monday morning (granted, I live up on a pass, so we always get a little more snow than in town).

I haven’t written extensively about a storm for 4 years, since the huge storm we got back in January of 2017. According to the forecast, this developing storm does not look like it would rival that last bit one but it would still be the largest snow storm we have had since and pretty big in its own right. It’s big enough that I reckon I will follow the storm on this site like I have done in the past.

First, a bit of a before and after. I got the first picture after just a little snow had already fallen:

Sunday
Sunday

The storm rolled through on Sunday and we woke up Monday morning to see a lot more snow on the ground than we had anticipated. I headed out to document conditions around Mount Shasta. It was extremely windy so a lot of the trees had less snow on them than I would have thought. In spite of the very cold and windy weather, it was really beautiful out. The evening was clear, so I decided to stop and capture the sunset on Mount Shasta while I was heading to the gas station to fill up on gasoline for the snow blower. With a bigger storm coming in, I had hoped there would be a lenticular but there was not.

After the storm and just before dawn.
The snow was pure powder so the wind kept it from piling up on the exposed parts of Mount Shasta.

The wind was whipping fiercely in town.
Sunset was fairly typical. There was nothing to indicate the fury preparing to descend on us.

The forecast showed the area would only be partly cloudy around sunrise on Tuesday. With a big storm barreling down on us, I thought, finally, there must be a lenticular on Mount Shasta. It turned out I was correct, but it was not a very large or impressive one. Nonetheless, the sunrise was a beautiful one.

Mount Shasta, just before the morning light began to hit it.

By the time I got back into town, the cloud had grown quite a bit, though it was never a really impressive specimen. Far more interesting formations had taken shape over Mount Eddy as the lenticular on Mount Shasta grew.


Now, as I write this, the storm has been intensifying for hours. It continues to be really windy and the snow is pretty dry. It is supposed to dump a foot or more tonight with another nearly 2 feet Wednesday and Wednesday night. That should be fun. In the mean time, we can all be grateful that a good snowpack is being built up by this storm. Hopefully it will only be added to over the next couple months. The Lord knows we need it.

I will post again on how this storm ends up in a few days. Until then, stay safe and stay warm!

Palisades At Daybreak

Posted by bubbasuess on January 18, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta. 1 Comment

Sunrise on Mount Shasta’s Mud Creek Basin.

I will be among the first to proclaim that we need more snow. Halfway through January, we have not gotten that big winter storm that really builds up the snow pack and sets the mountains up for a good summer. With weather incoming next week, and two typically snowy months yet to come, I am not worried about how the winter is going at this point. It also leaves conditions on Mount Shasta that I find really appealing, from an aesthetic point of view.

In particular, I really like it when the mountain is white, but all the crags and spires are mostly snowless. This really highlights these towering features as well as the volcanic layers that compose parts of the mountain. The contrast of the white mountain with the rocky black feature jutting upward is quite spectacular and one of my favorite condition sets for images of the Mount Shasta.

The last two mornings have been almost featureless in the sky, with hardly a cloud to speak of. This has caused me to focus in on the finer details of the mountain and, nicely enough, the conditions have been particularly good for that. It is also of great benefit that most of Mount Shasta’s best crags are located on the west and south sides of the mountain, which are the sides most easily accessed from town. There are a few good rocky areas on the mountain’s northeast side, particularly along the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge and also around the summit of Shastina but the southern and western exposures are, by far, the most interesting when it comes to spires and similar formations. Notable formations include Shastarama Point, Thumb Rock, and Casaval Ridge. The entire expanse of the Mud Creek Basin is especially rugged territory, with dozens of nameless towers bursting from the ridges and loose volcanic debris. The main reason for this broken terrain is that they are part of the chaotic jumble where Mount Shasta’s four eruption cones meet. Read more about that here.

So, until more snow falls (which I think will be soon), I intend to enjoy Mount Shasta’s crags and the ragged visage they give the mountain.

Casaval Ridge is among the must rugged regions on Mount Shasta. The towering spires shoot upward from the ridge and make an incredibly, sawtooth-like image. This is a favorite winter-ascent route. The palisade of rock is easily visible from anywhere on the west side of Mount Shasta.

 

At the top of Avalanche Gulch, where the Red Banks and Casaval Ridge meet, there is a great collection of spires that mark the top of Misery Cone, one of Mount Shasta’s four eruption cones. This area is one of the few west-side points that catches the first light of dawn.

 

Thumb Rock is the highest of a collection of towers that line the top of Sargents Ridge. Though these too are prominently visible from the west side, they are really the back side of what is more dramatically exposed in Mud Creek Basin. These are some of the oldest crags on Mount Shasta, belonging to the Sargents Ridge eruption cone.

 

The east side of Sargents Ridge makes up half of Mud Creek Basin and it is one of the most spectacular corners of Mount Shasta. Filled with massive towers and enormous blocks of andesite protruding from the cinders and bedrock, it is a feast of visual detail. This area is best viewed from McCloud and contribute to that perspective being among the very best of Mount Shasta.

 

Two Magnificent Mount Shasta Lenticulars.

Posted by bubbasuess on January 10, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Lenticular Clouds, Mount Shasta. Leave a comment

A small lenticular covers the summit of Mount Shasta.

There has been some great lenticular theatrics in the sky over Mount Shasta the last few days. They have been strong, full-featured formations that are the kind of clouds lenticular hunters are always questing after. There were two notable events and interestingly, though not surprisingly, they both presaged a light snow that fell in the area. Between both storms, we got about three inches. Not too much, but enough to turn things white. Unfortunately, neither cloud had the strength to last until sunset. If they had, especially the formation that occurred on Saturday, they could have counted among the top tier of events I have observed.

Thursday:

There was not a notable formation on Mount Shasta on Thursday morning but by midday it had begun to gather strength. This particular cloud seemed quite robust and it held its form really well. Hovering just to the northeast of Mount Shasta, it made a dramatic companion to the mountain. I was excited for the sunset possibilities with this one.


Late in the afternoon it reached its crescendo, taking on a really fantastic form. However, by the time I got north of it, the cloud was already losing shape. It was still interesting, but it was obvious that it was not holding together the way I had hoped. Making matters even worse, a think bank of clouds to the west soon blotted out the sun completely and muted all the colors. Even though the lenticular held on, albeit in diminished form until dark, it turned out to be a lackluster sunset. Still, the sky had been graced with a great display and I was not too disappointed.

Friday had no unusual activity. The storm that passed through Thursday night basically broke up by afternoon and there were lots of clouds, but nothing to really catch my interest. That was not to be the case the following day.

Saturday:

Saturday morning started off with a small disk clinging to the summit of Mount Shasta. There were no other clouds in the sky. However, by the time I reached a southern position from which to observe the mountain and the light of the rising sun, a small wafer of a cloud had formed high overhead south of the summit. I pointed out to my son who had accompanied me and told him that it would likely turn into a lenticular. I’ve seen enough of these things to know when one is likely to form.


Sure enough, by late morning, it had expanded into an epic array of lenticulars scattered all over the sky south of Mount Shasta. The mountain itself was cloaked in a large dome of cloud that exhibited layers on the edges typical of a lenticular stack. It was a really spectacular display of clouds.

I was really hoping this one would hold on until sunset but, alas, it did not and was gone by early afternoon. Near sunset it seemed to try to gather a little steam and formed a weak disk east of Mount Shasta but it never came to anything. By the time the sun had set, it too was long gone.

In the end, I am still on the hunt for that grand sunset that comes along two or three times each winter. Neither of these lenticulars ended up being the one but they sure were a heap of fun to track and photograph. As always, I remain grateful for the opportunity to witness their beauty, regardless of whether or not they ended the way I wanted them to.

In The Shadow Of Aurora

Posted by bubbasuess on January 7, 2021
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, sunrise. 7 Comments

The rising sun sets the sky over Mount Shasta aflame.

The sunrise on Wednesday was beautiful, but in a subdued and ethereal way. It never seemed to be able to gather enough light to itself and really glow. This was certainly not the case the following morning. This time, the sky over Mount Shasta seemed to be on fire, blazing across the dome of heaven. Thankfully, I was well-positioned to watch the spectacle. However, little did I know that, as spectacular as the sunrise was, it was only the first act in a magnificent show that highlighted just how grand Mount Shasta is.

As usual, I was up early and checked the conditions outside. The forecast had called for some clouds but when I surveyed the night sky, there was nothing visible. This changed rather quickly. As I headed north, I could see a couple of clouds starting to coalesce above the mountain. I went fairly deep into the Shasta Valley, intent on trying out a new spot I had espied a week or so ago. However, by the time I was near my destination, a thick fog had overtaken the valley and I could barely see 30 yards ahead of me, let along Mount Shasta to the south. I turned around and headed back to Edgewood, where the fog had not penetrated. Once there, I got to one of my usual spots and was ready just in time for the color to explode.


I love sunrises like this. The texture of the clouds and the way they catch the light reveals incredibly intricate structures that are often invisible under normal conditions. These clouds had so many different layers, it was hard to appreciate all at once. I had to scan the different areas to appreciate the textures. If particular note was the near-lenticulars that hovered around the summit of Mount Shasta. Before the color had burst into the sky, I was thinking these might firm up their shapes and actually be full-formed lenticulars. Instead, the clouds expanded and filled the sky. While lenticulars are always great, it was hard to be disappointed with this particular spectacle.
However, as I noted, this was not the only awe-inspiring sight this sunrise was to produce.


This morning witnessed a rare shadow-casting from Mount Shasta. It is normal for the mountain to have a shadow at sunrise (and sunset, of course but few are ever east of the mountain to appreciate it!) but it is far less common for the shadow to be cast onto the clouds in the distance. I have seen it a few other times but the conditions have to just right for the phenomenon to occur. Interestingly, I have generally observed this happing in January.

This particular shadow was cast over the Little Scott Mountains on the west side of the Shasta Valley. A dark tower seemed to be cut through the colorfully light clouds, jutting high above the landscape. It was obvious that this was the shadow from Mount Shasta. It shrank as the sun got higher but it was evident for quite a while.


As the sun rose, the position of the shadow relative the mountain was more obvious and soon it was visibly cast by the summit itself. This type of shadow I have seen on numerous occasions, but this one grew even more pronounced as the sun climbed higher.


Unlike other shadow-castings I have witnessed, the conditions for this morning lasted long enough to see the sky split in half. One portion was alight with morning glow, both in the sky and on the land. The other portion was darkened, falling in the shadow of the mountain. It was like watching an eclipse, scaled down to a mountain, but still tremendous in scope.

I appreciate the way Mount Shasta has discernable influence over the land around it. The shadows cast are but one example and, though grand, a fleeting and insignificant one. The rainshadow is similar in so many ways but it translate into far more concrete realities on the ground. The land is dry, the plants are different, and water is less abundant. People live differently in the rainshadow. Morning shadows don’t have that kind of impact on the physical realities we are confronted with but in our hearts and minds, this kind of shadow casting can still effect us, fill us with awe and appreciate the beauty that is in the world.

It reminds me of Malachi 4:2. When I see an event of such as this, I too want to skip about like a joyous calf.

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