Breaking Down The North State: The Klamath Mountains Pt. II

Posted by bubbasuess on June 2, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Klamath Mountains, Lakes, Marble Mountains, Meadows, Mount Shasta, Peaks, Rivers, Scott Mountains, Siskiyou Mountains, Trinity Alps, Trinity Divide, Water, Wilderness. Tagged: , , , . 3 Comments

 

The grandeur of the Klamath Mountains can be seen at Diamond Lake in the Trinity Alps.

This is a continuation of the the article examining California’s magnificent Klamath Mountains. Part I can be found here. This took an overview approach to the whole range and looked at the wildlands that are scattered throughout it. The Klamath Mountains are vast and it is much easier to appreciate the range by examining the various subranges in order to get a better idea of just how diverse and magnificent these mountains are. This article will break the range down by its numerous subranges and note some of the characteristics of each. It will only address the California portion of the Klamaths. The Oregon portion, notably the Siskiyous, the Kalmiopsis Wilderness and lower Rogue River area are outside the scope of this article and are best treated as a separate entity (and subject of a later article).

Klamath Mountains subranges: A. North Yolla Bolly Mountains, B. Southern Klamaths, C. Trinity Mountains, D. McCloud Range, E. Trinity Divide, F. Scott Mountains, G. Trinity Alps, H. Salmon Mountains, I. Marble Mountains, J. Little Scott Mountains, K. Scott Bar Mountains, L. Siskiyou Mountains

*Note that this map is only approximate and does not accurately represent the precise limits of each subrange of the Klamath Mountains.

North Yolla Bolly Mountains

North Yolla Bolly Mountain

Occupying the northern section of the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness, the North Yolla Bolly Mountains are an isolate block of high elevation peaks. The North Yolla Bollys lies right on the transition zone between the Klamath Mountains and the North Coast Range. Geologically they are an island of metavolcanic rock surrounded by sedimentary and ulrtramafic rocks. Though they are distinct from the rock types of both the Coast Range and the Klamaths, their position within the latter range is secured by the presence of the South Fork of the Trinity River. This river’s headwaters lie immediately north and south of the North Yolla Bollies and then flows to the northwest for 92 miles before joining the Trinity River.

The North Yolla Bollys consist of a long ridge that towers over the surrounding mountains. The ridge is capped by the high peaks of North Yolla Bolly and Black Rock Mountain. These are the second highest points in the Yolla Bollys, after South Yolla Bolly, the highest point in the North Coast Range. Each of the two high peaks in the North Yolla Bollys host a single, small lake in north facing cirques. Along with the mountain summits, these are the most popular destinations in the range. Most of the North Yolla Bollys are protected in the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness. Part of the freshmen class of wilderness areas established by the 1964 Wilderness Act, it is one of the least visited wild areas in California. Despite this, there is a well-developed trail network that accesses both the north side of the range and the wilderness’ remote interior. The trail passes through Petijohn Basin, with spurs leading to the small lakes and mountain summits before penetrating into the wildlands further south.

Southern Klamath Mountains

Inside the Massacre Natural Bridge.

Lying between the North Yolla Bollys and the main fork of the Trinity River is a large block of low to mid-elevation mountains. This area is covered with expansive forests and vast swaths of chaparral. There is no formal distinction for this region but its size demands its inclusion here. Drained by the South Fork of the Trinity River and Hayfork Creek on the west and Cottonwood Creek on the west, this area is the generally the lowest elevation region in the Klamath Mountains. The only significant upland area rises on the east side. Here, a ridge dotted with tall peaks climbs to elevations over 6,000 feet. The highest point, Bully Choop, stops just short of 7,000 feet. Two other notable peaks are part of this long ridge. Anchoring the western end is Chanchelulla Peak, protected by the tiny Chanchelulla Wilderness. At the eastern end is Shasta Bally, which is prominently visible from Redding. This peak is the highest point in Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. This park is the most well-developed area in terms of recreational amenities and attracts the most attention from hikers. Few other destinations are present in this part of the Klamath Mountains, the most worthwhile of which is the fascinating Massacre Natural Bridge, which is home to a short trail and loads of interesting geology.

Some maps identify this area as part of the Trinity Mountains. This seems like an unnecessary confusion. The Trinity Mountains lie further north, on the other side of Highway 299. The ranges are quite distinct from each other. The Shasta Bally/Bully Choop ridge is part of a granite batholith and forms the divide between the Trinity River and Cottonwood Creek. On the other hand, the Trinity Mountains are composed of sedimentary rocks and form part of the divide between the Trinity and Sacramento Rivers.

Trinity Mountains

Another one of the little known set of mountains within the Klamath Mountains, the Trinity Mountains are a collection of mid-elevation ridges and peaks that form the divide between the Trinity River and the Sacramento River. Blanketed by dense forest and some forbidding chaparral, the mountains here are generally sedimentary in nature. Though the Trinity Mountains forms the southern half of the divide between the Trinity and Sacramento Rivers, it also produces a significant watershed of its own. Clear Creek rises at the north end of the range and flows south for over 40 miles before it joins the North Fork of Cottonwood Creek. Clear Creek is impounded to form Whiskeytown Lake. The Trinity Mountains are one of the least developed parts of the Klamaths in terms of recreational infrastructure. There are no trails and only a lone, primitive campground near the headwaters of Clear Creek offers any sort of amenities.

“The McCloud Mountains”

McCloud River Canyon, the heart of the McCloud Range.

East of the Sacramento River and Interstate 5 lies the most forgotten and anonymous part of the Klamath Mountains. Lacking a name or any other sort of designation, these mountains present a rugged, impenetrable visage to those who take an interest in them.  Though there are no trails or campgrounds in this remote region, there is one major recreation attraction. Major sections of these mountains are composed of marine sediment and in many cases this manifests as large limestone peaks. Typical of this kind of rock, caves have formed and the Shasta Caverns have become a popular destination. Though there are some major peaks, notably North Gray Rock (home of Shasta Caverns), Tombstone Mountain and Grizzly Peak, the most dominant feature in these mountains is the McCloud River. It rises far to the northeast but cleaves these mountains in two as it flows south toward the Pit River Arm of Shasta Lake. Its canyon is deep, narrow and remote. Though the range has no official name, the McCloud Mountains seems like a good choice, given its relationship to the river. Indeed, old maps from the 19th century identify these mountains accordingly, though the name never caught on.

The Trinity Divide

Despite being fairly unknown as a singular entity, the Trinity Divide is one of the most notable subranges of the Klamath Mountains. Its stature is ranked alongside the Trinity Alps, Salmon Mountains and Marble Mountains, the other tall, lake-filled subranges that make up the heart of Klamaths. The Trinity Divide has dozens of glacial lakes, large river valleys, high peaks and rugged terrain, just as those other mountain blocks do. What the Trinity Divide lacks is a large, federally recognized wilderness. It seems that without formal protections to alert hikers and backpackers, the Divide has kept just off the radar as a destination. Despite formal wilderness, much of this beautiful set of mountains retains its primeval character. Those very meager few who have entered Grey Rocks Basin at the head of the South Fork of Castle Creek or explored the small lakes atop the Castle Crags can attest to intact nature of the Trinity Divide’s wilderness.

Mount Eddy peeks over the mighty Castle Crags.

While there is not a large chunk of wildlands in the Trinity Divide, there is one small wilderness area. Though it is not large in area, in terms of scenic qualities, the Castle Crags Wilderness is a superlative destination. The obvious highlight is the mighty cluster of granite spire that make up the Castle Crags. Unlike the rest of the Trinity Divide, the Castle Crags are moderately well known and have their own devoted following of fans. Despite not being well known like the Castle Crags, the Trinity Divide has other landmarks that continue to shine brightly. Among these excellent features is Mount Eddy, the highest peak in the entire Klamath Mountain Range. This large mountain is not as magnificent as nearby Mount Shasta but it remains a massive mountain in its own right and is home to several glacial lake basins. Among the other lakes in the Trinity Divide is Castle Lake, one of the largest in the Klamaths.

The Trinity Divide is so named because it forms the divide between the headwaters of the Trinity and Sacramento Rivers. The Trinity is the largest of the rivers that rise in the Klamath Mountains and flow into the Klamath River. The Sacramento River is the longest and largest river in California. The Pacific Crest Trail follows the crest of the range, threading the needle between the waters that empty into the Pacific near amongst the North State redwoods and those waters that flow into San Francisco Bay.

Scott Mountains

East Boulder Lake in the Scott Mountains.

If the Trinity Divide is an obscure mountain range then the Scott Mountains are utterly forgotten. These beautiful mountains consist of a single long crest that runs for over 20 miles east to west. Much of the range is composed of reddish peridotite, giving it a distinct appearance. This rock is prominent in other parts of the Klamath Mountains but nowhere does it seem to be as ubiquitous as in the Scott Mountains. In many ways the Scotts seem like an extension of the Trinity Divide. The highest peak, China Mountain, is often considered the northernmost peak of the Divide rather than the most prominent summit of the Scott Mountains. Like the Trinity Divide, the Scott Mountains are named because they divide the headwaters of two rivers. The southern slope the range flows into the Trinity River. The northern slope is the headwaters of the Scott River, one of the major waterways of the Klamath Mountains. Several lakes are found in these mountains, many of which are accessed via a well-developed trail system. This is particularly true of the western half of the range, which is protected within the Trinity Alps Wilderness. The eastern half, with fewer (though there are still several notable lakes) and no wilderness protection, is a largely untapped resource for hikers. Worth noting, however, is Lover’s Leap, a set of crags which are home to a rapidly expanding rock climbing area.

Trinity Alps

Grizzly Lake in the Trinity Alps.

Although Mount Eddy may be the tallest point in the Klamath Mountains, the Trinity Alps are really the heart of the range. It is here that one finds the most expansive wilderness, the most spectacular mountains, the grandest scenery and the sense of limitless vastness that is a hallmark of the Klamath Mountains. It is in the Trinity Alps that hikers will most readily find the stunning landscapes that make the Klamath Mountains such an incredible, mysterious jewel of the North State. Towering, jagged towers composed of granite and other, more exotic rocks abound here. Gorgeous alpine lakes are set like glittering jewels beneath tall cliffs. Thundering waterfalls hammer against dense rocks and vast expanses of lush, beautiful forests blanket deep canyons and a seemingly numberless set of tall ridges. This truly is the heart of the Klamaths.

It is necessary to draw a distinction between the Trinity Alps Wilderness and the Trinity Alps as a subrange of the Klamath Mountains. The former is massive, totaling 560,000 acres. Its size is swelled by including portions of the adjacent Scott and Salmon Mountains. These sections of neighboring ranges lie on the divide between the Trinity River and the Salmon and Scott Rivers so are a natural fit within the wilderness area. Due to their inclusion in the large, protected wildlands, these sections are often thought of as part of the “Trinity Alps”, which is a natural, consequent association. The Trinity Alps proper, on the other hand, are somewhat smaller in area and lie wholly within the watershed of the Trinity River. For the purposes of this article, the sections of the Salmon and Scott Mountains that lie in the wilderness area have been separated out and addressed with their respective mountain ranges.

Classic beauty of the Trinity Alps.

The Trinity Alps can be divided into three general areas. In the west, there is a vast expanse of forested ridges and deep canyons. Drained by the North Fork of the Trinity River and the New River, this area has a few small lakes and a scattering of rocky peaks that punctuate the sea of green trees. On the east side of the Trinity Alps, butting against the upper Trinity River, there is a collection of tall peaks, deep lakes and vast expanses of meadow. The peaks here are rugged, rocky and beautiful. Geologically, this area is a mixture of granite and red and yellow peridotite. It has a striking appearance. Sandwiched between these two areas is the epicenter of the Trinity Alps. Composed of stark white granite, this area has the highest peaks, most rugged terrain and largest lakes. This is the area that truly supplies the “Alps” moniker to the entire range.

The entire range drains into the Trinity River. Some creeks flow west and join the river upstream from the impounded Trinity Lake while the rest flow south and join the river during its long journey west to join the Klamath River. Water is abundant within these mountains. The lakes and vast stretches of meadow feed the waterways well into summer and beyond. Several waterfalls, most notably in Canyon Creek and at Grizzly Lake, grace these mountains. Other smaller falls dot the area. Significant creeks include Canyon, Coffee, Swift, Deer, and Granite Creeks.

Trails course through the Trinity Alps and it is possible to string together paths to create trips that would last weeks. It is in the Trinity Alps that the great sense of remote expansiveness of the Klamath Mountains is most evident. Here hikers and backpackers can see for dozens of miles to the horizon knowing that civilization still lies even further away and the world around them is truly primitive.

Salmon Mountains

Taylor Lake in the Salmon Mountains.

In some ways, the Salmon Mountains are the great lost range of the Klamath Mountains. This is not because they are utterly lost and forgotten, but because the administrative nature of the national forest has broken up the range’s cohesion. The Salmon Mountains are those parts of the Klamaths that are drained by the Salmon River (often called the Cal Salmon, to distinguish it from the magnificent Salmon River in Idaho, the famed “River of No Return”). Geologically, these mountains are fairly homogenous. However, the administration of these lands has led to something of a disassociation of the range. Specifically, it is the wilderness areas themselves that have led to the demise of the Salmon Mountains. The southern part of the range is included in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. The northern corner is joined with the Marble Mountains Wilderness. The high country at the east end of the Salmon Mountains is contained in the small but spectacular Russian Wilderness. The northern and southern parts are consequently thought of as parts of their adjacent ranges while the Russian Wilderness is left as an entity unto itself.

Despite being broken up, these areas are thankfully preserved in their wild state and they are beautiful areas indeed. Granite towers, gorgeous lakes and lush meadows are found in these mountains, especially in the areas with the wilderness boundaries. Outside these protected areas, the range consists of lower, drier ridges that rise above the Salmon River. Trails are found throughout the area and hiking is easily the best way to experience this lost mountain range.

Marble Mountains

The Marble Mountain

Wild and expansive, the Marble Mountains are second in stature only to the Trinity Alps. Like the Trinities, they offer a high concentration of the best of the Klamath Mountains, with a few unique twists of their own. Occupying the high country between the Salmon River and the Klamath River, the Marbles are protected within the 250,000 acre Marble Mountains Wilderness. Here there are dozens of lakes, towering summits and large, swift flowing creeks. Numerous meadows abound. Geologically, the Marbles are diverse. Granite plutons, especially around English Peak in the south and the Cuddihy Lakes in the north, are found on the outskirts of the Marble Mountains. The interior has classic Klamath Mountains geology consisting of peridotite and serpentine as well as sedimentary rocks. The crown jewel of the range, however, is the presence of large blocks of marble. The most notable are found on Marble Mountain itself and at Kings Castle, rising above Paradise Lake. The former is the larger of the two is one of the most unique wilderness mountains to be found in the country. Composed of a long, sweeping slope of bright white marble, Marble Mountain is a striking, fascinating formation. Its northern side, however is a steep cliff that drops off sharply into the headwaters of the Elk Creek drainage. Sitting atop the eastern corner of this incredible formation is Black Marble Mountain, a roof pendant left over from the mountains formation.

The Marble Mountains are drained by the North Fork of the Salmon River as well as several other notable creeks. The largest creek in the range is Wooley Creek, which is the biggest tributary of the Salmon River. The eastern section of the range is part of the Scott River drainage. Notable creeks including Shakleford, Kidder and Canyon Creeks all contribute significant amounts of water to the Scott River. The northern section of the Marbles is part of the Klamath River’s immediate watershed and is empties into the river by way of large creeks like Elk and Grider Creeks.

Like other parts of the Klamath Mountains, there is an extensive network of trails that are reasonably well maintained. Weeklong backpacking trips are easily possible here. Unfortunately the Marble Mountains, especially the northern part, have experienced significant fire damage in the last few years. They remain beautiful and recovery has already commenced but hikers must anticipate snags and some trails in need of post-fire maintenance, especially in the more remote corners.

Little Scott Mountains and the Scott Bar Mountains

Duzel Rock seen in the upper left.

These two, small, ranges are in the far northeast corner of the Klamath Mountains. Neither climbs very high and has a strong high desert influence, especially along their lower flanks. The Little Scott Mountains’ southern boundary begins along the East Fork of the Scott River and Willow Creek. The latter is part of the Shasta River watershed. The northern boundary is where the small range meets the Scott Bar Mountains just west of Yreka. They form the divide between the Scott and Shasta Valleys. Though the Little Scott Mountains lack the rugged character of most of the Klamath Mountains, they do contain a couple notable features. First is Scarface Ridge and Antelope Mountain. These constitute the crest of the range. The other notable landmark is Duzel Rock. This massive rock protrusion is home to a Calfire lookout.

The Scott Bar Mountains rise higher than the Little Scott Mountains. Consequently, they do have more forest cover than the Little Scott Mountains. These mountains form the divide between the Scott Klamath Rivers. Running east to west, they join with the Little Scott Mountains just west of Yreka. Neither of these mountain ranges is in anyway developed for recreation. The only destination of note is Greenhorn Park in Yreka. This attractive park is on the very eastern fringe of the Scott Bar Mountains and has a well-developed trail system as well as a lake, playgrounds and other recreational facilities. Lack of significant blocks of public land further impair recreational potential of these small mountain ranges.

Siskiyou Mountains

Devils Punchbowl in the Siskiyou Mountains.

Forming the great northern bulwark of the Klamath Mountains, the Siskiyous form the great divide between the Klamath River and Rogue River watersheds. Forming a vast crescent, the Siskiyous stretch from Siskiyou Summit, where the Klamaths and Cascade Range meet, to the low hills near the confluence of the Klamath and Salmon Rivers. This long arc includes some magnificently rugged terrain and gives rise to several large creeks that feed into the Klamath River. The Illinois and Applegate Rivers, the two main tributaries of the Rogue River, also form on the northern slope of the Siskiyou Mountains. The range can roughly be divided into two sections. The most heavily used is the long east-west ridge that runs from Siskiyou Summit west toward Thompson Ridge. A significant portion of this half of the Siskiyous lies in Oregon. Mount Ashland, the highest peak in the Siskiyous is found here. The other part of the Siskiyous is almost entirely in California as it dips south along the Klamath River. This area is much more rugged with numerous large lakes and craggy peaks. It is crowned by epic Preston Peak, which is only slightly shorter than Mount Ashland but far more prominent and rugged.

Two wilderness areas are found in the Siskiyous. The Red Buttes Wilderness is the smaller of the two and receives somewhat heavier use due to its easy access from Oregon and relative proximity to population centers. Several small lakes are found in this wilderness, many of which form the headwaters of the Applegate River. The Red Buttes themselves are the centerpiece of the wilderness. Composed of bright red peridotite, they are classic Klamath Mountains peaks. In contrast to the diminutive size of the Red Buttes, the Siskiyou Wilderness is the third largest wildlands in the Klamath Mountains with over 170,000 acres. This vast land is not as tall as the other major subranges of the Klamath Mountains but it has extremely rugged, rocky terrain, several notable peaks and a number or large, deep lakes. Sinuous Clear Creek drains the interior of this exceptional wilderness.

The Klamath Mountains In Oregon

The somewhat arbitrary line that marks the border between California and Oregon also divides the Klamath Mountains. A significant chunk of the range lies north of the border in the Beaver State. Much of this is part of the Siskiyou Mountains. However, there are other areas that are noteworthy. In particular is the amorphous block of mountains that is centered on the Kalmiopsis Wilderness. These mountains were devastated by the 2004 Biscuit Fire but they remain beautiful and are well down the road to recovery already. These mountains exhibit typical Klamath Mountains geography. Nowhere it this more evident than around Vulcan Peak and small Vulcan Lake, where the red peridotite that is so common in the Klamaths is quite evident. However, geology only makes up half of the metrics by which the Klamaths are determined. Watersheds are also important and the fact that these mountains are drained by the Illinois and Chetco, the former of which feeds into the Rogue River, makes this area feel like a region apart from the main block of the Klamath Mountains. Even much of the Siskiyous, though part of the divide between the Rogue and the Klamath, feel like they are once removed from the Klamath Mountains as well. Perhaps in time they will receive their own treatment in this geography series.

New Book To Be Released July 1st

Posted by bubbasuess on June 1, 2017
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Sierra Nevada. Tagged: . 2 Comments

I want to announce that my latest book “Hiking Northern California” will be officially released one month from today. The book covers 80 of the best hikes in the northern 2/3’s of California. This includes the north and central coasts, the Klamath Mountains, Cascade Range and the Sierra Nevada. I even sneaked a couple of trails in the Sacramento Valley into the book! It’s not intended to be an exhaustive hiking guide like my Mount Shasta book, but rather a primer on the best trails in each of the 9 regions the book covers. No matter where you are headed in Northern California, there is going to be a great trail in the book that will be within striking distance.

This is a beautiful book. With subject matter like Northern California, it would be hard for it not to be. However, there are nearly 250 full color images in the book, so it is loaded with great visuals that draw at some of the best of what this part of the country looks like. With subject matter like Big Sur, Mount Shasta and Yosemite among many other locations, it is going to look great with such an abundance of images. Another great feature of the book is the addition of full-color topographic maps. The maps in previous books published by Falcon Guides were certainly good. Indeed, they were above average as far as hiking guide maps go. The new maps, however, are excellent. Anyone hiking any of the trails in this guide will not need to take additional maps, since the topos are embedded in the book.

Frankly, I think the book is so attractive, it works just as well as a coffee table book as it does a hiking guide. There are so many pictures in the book, many covering obscure and rarely seen destinations, that anyone unfamiliar with Northern California is going to get a pretty good idea how beautiful the northern part of the Golden State is. It was also my purpose that those who have never set out on a trail in Northern California would be able to read the book and experience the beauty vicariously through word and image. I hope it inspires people to come out here and experience this magnificent corner of the world.

I’ll have a little more to say in a month, when the book is released. For now, I also want to mention that I have built an Amazon store for HikeMtShasta. There is a link to it on the right side of the menu bar. In addition to pre-ordering my new book (or buying my Mount Shasta and Wine Country guides!) it has lots of other useful hiking guides, books on the history of Mount Shasta and other books that a recommend. I hope you will peruse the store and support this site. I really appreciate everyone reading HikeMtShasta and picking up my books. I hope you enjoy the new one!

Yosemite Waterfalls Indicative Of California’s Heavy Snowpack

Posted by bubbasuess on May 31, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Sierra Nevada, Water, Waterfalls, Yosemite. 5 Comments

Yosemite Falls thunders down the north side of Yosemite Valley.

As June becomes imminent, the state of the snowpack across California becomes clearer. June is often the month when flows in the rivers around the state level off after the spring thaw and begin the gradual dwindling into their autumn trickles. From the Kern to the Sacramento, this is definitely not the case in 2017. Snow remains abundant at higher elevations and the increasing temperatures ensure that it is melting at a steady clip. Nonetheless, there is still deep snow in the high country and it will take a significant amount of time for it to melt out. This means the rivers, creeks and waterfalls of Northern California will remain strong and vigorous for the duration of the summer.

Memorial weekend took me to Yosemite for a wedding. Though I did not have a lot of time and was limited in my opportunities to get out by my three young kids, we had an excellent time wandering the valley and checking out the magnificent waterfalls. All of the smaller, seasonal waterfalls were flowing strongly, heightening the beauty of the already incomparable valley. The main waterfalls were also swollen and awe-inspiring. While our pre-wedding visit to the valley was great and there were surprisingly few people in the park, our post wedding foray was an eye-opening immersion into just what the crowds can be like at the park. I have been going there frequently my entire life and never experienced such a thing. Even forewarned, it was still shocking. Thankfully Mount Shasta never gets that way.

Obviously, Yosemite is not the normal beat for HikeMtShasta, but, as I have established in the past, there is a strong link between the beloved national park and Mount Shasta through John Muir. Furthermore, water has been a central theme on this blog and there are few more poetic and beautiful ways to illustrate how deep the snowpack is than to display waterfalls in Yosemite.

Click to enlarge:

 

Since this is a Mount Shasta website, it certainly is fitting to include one shot of the great mountain. I captured this one a day before heading down to Yosemite. The fact that the falls are flowing at all indicates just how much snow there is to melt up here. High water indeed!

Three Mountains And A River

Posted by bubbasuess on May 19, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Eddy, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Water. Tagged: . 3 Comments

Mount Eddy peeks through the trees at a vigorous stretch of the Sacramento River.

I have been writing a lot lately about the Sacramento River’s activity near the Lake Siskiyou inlet. In large measure this is a result of my fascination with the history of water in the western United States (if you haven’t read Cadillac Desert, you really should). The Sacramento River is one of the linchpins of the hydrologic infrastructure in California as well as the state’s largest and longest river. Yet it is often overlooked that this most critical piece in the Golden State’s puzzle begins here in the Mount Shasta area. Indeed, though many people enjoy Lake Siskiyou or fish the river, we often forget what a powerful and important presence the river is in this area. Strangely enough, despite its relatively short length, it is often the McCloud River, with its excellent waterfalls, that is often thought of as the river of the Mount Shasta area.

Though there are probably several reasons why the Sacramento River is not appreciated as it ought to be (almost no trails along it!), I think one of the most significant is the fact that the river is perpetually overshadowed by the large mountains that rise above it. The Castle Crags, Mount Eddy and Mount Shasta all command attention and respect and the Sacramento, lacking waterfalls and its box canyon damed up, does not boast many notable features (we really need a trail to Mossbrae Falls!) to attract people to it. It is thus ironic that the Sacramento River offers some of the best views of the three most notable mountains that rise above it. It is a remarkable showcase of the amazing topography that lies at the source of California’s most important river. This, perhaps, is the river’s iconic feature but it has managed to somehow go unnoticed. This needs to be rectified.

The Castle Crags can often be hard to view from afar but the Sacramento River has spectacular vistas of the granite spires.

Mount Eddy, on whose slopes the North Fork of the Sacramento is born, is often best viewed from the Sacramento River.

Mount Shasta can be viewed from almost anywhere but the kinetic fury of the Sacramento River adds a marvelous dimension to the massive mountain. 

It continues to amaze me that there is only one developed trail that runs parallel to the Sacramento River. As these images reveal, there are numerous magnificent views of the mountains around the river waiting to be explored, discovered and enjoyed. In my last post, I brought up the possibility of extending the Lake Siskiyou Trail upstream, following the river on both sides and then crossing it by means of a permanent bridge. This would open up some of the most scenic sections of the river to hikers. It would also facilitate more exploration and rock scrambling as people explored the numerous channels the river splits into once the three forks have all combined. There is a lot of memories and beauty waiting to be appreciated along that section of the Sacramento River.

Click to enlarge:

More Damage To Lake Siskiyou Trail

Posted by bubbasuess on May 15, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Water. Tagged: , , . 4 Comments

The Sacramento River continues to erode its banks and alter the landscape.

The Lake Siskiyou Trail can’t seem to catch a break. Ever since the Sacramento River bottled up its south channel a few years ago, the inlet area where the river flows into Lake Siskiyou has gone through an annual process of erosion, soil displacement and a general alteration of the landscape. Although it is fascinating to watch the river shape the land around it, the continual changes to the inlet area has had an adverse effect on the trail. Over the last three years more and more of the pathway, as well as the gabions that support seasonal bridges, have washed away into Lake Siskiyou. The winter of 2016/2017 was no different from the previous winters. More and more of the river’s inlet area was washed away as torrential rain and melting snow flooded the Sacramento River, causing it to yet again wash more rock and earth away.

Though I have been to both the northern and southern channels this spring, I had not had a chance to cross the now flowing south channel(it has not flowed for the last two years, since it was blocked up during a flood and beginning the entire erosion process) since I had previously visited with my kids. For Mother’s Day, we decided to head back down to the south channel and let the kids play in the water, explore the wildflower-filled meadows and play in the wood forts that have been constructed at the edge of the forest. This afforded my the opportunity to cross the south channel and go examine exactly what changes occurred there.

The Lake Siskiyou Trail ends abruptly at a cutbank.

What I found was not shocking but it was impressive nonetheless. During the winter the river washed yet more land away and now flows into Lake Siskiyou by means of a seemingly perpetually deepening gully cut into the loose rock and soil of the floodplain. Entrance into the gully is now marked by a beautiful stair-step cataract. Not much of the gully was there last year, having been carved out by this winter’s torrential flows. The trail was washed out in two places. The first spot saw the trail just fade away at the edge of the lake. To pick up the extant trail required crossing a narrow isthmus of land that was only 1.5 feet wide. From there it is possible to pick the trail back up and follow it for about 30 yards before it abruptly ends at the 3 foot high cut bank. Below the unstable ledge the Sacramento River flows vigorously.

This whole area has changed considerably over the last few years. Examine the satellite images to see where the land has been washed away. Pay special attention to the river’s location, the trail and bridges as well as the location of the trees:

These maps highlight the areas that have been washed away:

The following map shows the route of the Lake Siskiyou Trail as well as the areas that have been impacted by flooding. An alternate route for the trail is also suggested:

The yellow line is original rerouted trail circa 2016. The pink segment has been lost. Red marks an alternate route for a new trail. The path avoids the lake and the unstable parts of the inlet. 

Unfortunately, rerouting the Lake Siskiyou Trail is likely not to be a permanent solution to the constantly changing conditions at the inlet. Half the original trail has been washed away and the cutbank that has developed on the north channel will make it harder to place the seasonal bridge. Long term, I think the solution will be to extend the trail west along the Sacramento River for another 0.75 miles and then construct permanent foot bridge across the river. This would have several benefits. First, it would make the loop around the lake passable all year, rather than when the seasonal bridges can be placed. This would also lift the constant threat of the trail being washed out. Second, it would open up a new trail experience, one that would highlight one of the prettiest stretches of the Sacramento River. I think folks would hike that section by itself, not just for the sections by the lake. It would also present the opportunity to build a new trailhead along South Fork Road. Extending the trail upstream would also move things that much closer to connecting the Lake Siskiyou Trail to the Sisson-Callahan Trail. This would close one of the missing segments of my proposed Headwaters Loop. This proposal is due to get its own article soon.

For further discussion of the changed conditions at the inlet, scroll through the enlarged images and see how the trail has been washed away:

 

Sacramento River Inlet Follow Up

Posted by bubbasuess on May 9, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Water. Tagged: . 2 Comments

The Sacramento River fans out over its flood plain at the Lake Siskiyou inlet.

After yesterday’s post on the ever-changing conditions where the Sacramento River flows into Lake Siskiyou, I decided to pop back over and check out the conditions at the north channel. To recap, over the last few winters, the river has begun to reshape its path at a rapid rate. Prior to the winter of 2014/2015, the river had maintained a relatively stable course. The area was unchanged enough that construction on the Lake Siskiyou Trail was completed at the inlet. A trail and two sets of gabions for seasonal bridges were installed. The bridges crossed the river’s two channels that entered the lake. However, despite being a drought winter, sometime during one of the storms of 2014/2015, the river dammed up the southern (which was the primary) channel and shifted the entirety of its flow into the north channel. Unaccustomed to the volume of water now flowing through that area, the land gave way and much of the surface area around the north channel was scoured and washed away during high water over the next two years.

Click to enlarge and see the changes over the last few years:

Now the barrier that impeded flow into the south channel has been breached and after two years there is water flowing through it again. It is not nearly as much as contained in the north channel but it is not an insignificant level of water. The area along what is now the Sacramento’s main stem as it flows into the lake is still being altered by the heavy water. Most specifically, the area once traveled by the Lake Siskiyou Trail after crossing the north channel has been washed away. Most of the damage was done last winter but as the river surges past an aggregate-filled cutbank it is obvious that the process of erosion is by no means complete. It is likely that the route of the trail will continue to change over the next few winters as the land it travels is washed into the lake.

Another noteworthy change is to the small creek that hikers encountered prior to reaching the rocky flood plain along the river. At one time this was a fairly large creek that required a substantial (but movable) bridge to be placed over it. The first flood to come through washed it away but it was hauled back into position. The bridge has now been washed away again. However, during the process of flooding, much of the creeks waterway has been filled with sediment and the bridge is more rendered somewhat unnecessary at this point. Somewhere upstream the flow in the creek has been diverted and the amount of water flowing through is not nearly what it was in the recent past. It will be interesting to see how this area changes during subsequent floods.

Long term, I think the best option for the Lake Siskiyou Trail would be to extend the route upstream from the inlet 0.6 mile to where the river is pinched by the walls of its canyon into a narrower channel than in other areas. It would be possible to build a bridge here that would be high enough to avoid flood waters. Just as important, the steeper canyon walls would facilitate the construction of a trail that would also avoid impact from higher river water. Even better, a further 0.5 miles of new trail past the bridge would connect the Lake Siskiyou Trail to the Sisson-Callahan Trail, linking important pieces of my proposed Headwaters Loop. I think I will reconnoiter the site I think would work and put up a post on it in the near future.

Click to enlarge images of the Sacramento’s north channel at the inlet:

The Sacramento River Is Up To Its Old Tricks Again

Posted by bubbasuess on May 8, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Water. Tagged: . 4 Comments

Mount Eddy is visible above a strongly flowing south channel at the Lake Siskiyou inlet.

Since the beginning of 2015, I have been documenting the changes that have occurred at the Sacramento River’s inlet into Lake Siskiyou. For many years the Sacramento River divided itself into a northern and southern channel at it flowed into the impounded Lake Siskiyou. Of the two, the southern tended to have the larger volume of water. However, during one heavy rain in the midst of the drought winter of 2014/2015, the river blocked up the southern channel at the inlet and forced all the water into the northern channel. See some of the posts that documented this process here, here and here. Most importantly, I found that the southern channel remained dry, even when the river volume was relatively dry. This was the case last year as well.

However, we have had heavy precipitation all winter and the volume water in the river has been particularly high. At times it was downright scary how much water flowed into Lake Siskiyou. It should come as no surprise then, that the Sacramento River managed to open its southern channel back up and it now has a significant amount of water flowing through it. When the channel originally ran dry, the bridge that spanned it was left in place on the gabions. It was subsequently removed, though the gabions remained in place, of course. Unless hikers want to get their feet wet, it will now be necessary for the bridge to be reinstalled.

Click to enlarge:

Note the amount of snow on Mount Eddy. The drought winter left little even at high elevations.

Even if the bridges were installed on the south channel, the loop around Lake Siskiyou is still incomplete. The north channel, now the dominant route for the Sacramento River, still has a very heavy flow and it would be difficult to place the bridge over the channel. The river is wide and deep and also has a couple of smaller subsidiary channels that also have a strong flow. The difficulty is exacerbated by the fact that the original gabions were destroyed when the river first altered its course and the location of the new bridge has shifted with each winter’s heavy flow. It is premature to ascertain where the new bridge or bridges will have to be located. The water need to drop quite a bit before the loop can be completed once again. For those look to attempt the loop without the bridges, fording the water in the south channel is not difficult but trying to do so at the north channel is ill-advised right now. What the Lake Siskiyou Trail needs is a permanent bridge over the main channel prior to reaching the inlet. That is the subject of another post…

For the time being, the south channel has water in it once again, which is nice. For those who know the back way into the inlet from South Fork Road, it is a great place to take kids and let them play in the water. The section of the trail heading east along the south shore of the lake is also quite nice right now, before people doing the loop and campers from the Lake Siskiyou Resort have there way with it. Right now it feels quite isolated.

Click to enlarge:

It is also worth noting that the Sacramento River has been altering the landscape along its course at places other than the Lake Siskiyou inlet. I have not explored the Box Canyon yet (which no doubt got hammered when the lake went over the spillway during the winter) but I did note that the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento has been altered as well. For the last several years, the creek reached the river six or so feet higher than the Sacramento. It cascaded down the rocky embankment in order to join the swift flowing river. Just prior to the confluence the Sacramento River separated into two channels around an island. Castle Creek joined in just as these two channels rejoined. Now all the rock at this point has been cleared out and the creek cascades down to the river as it meets one of the two channels, not the recombined stem of the river. It has somewhat diminished the great view but remains an awesome spot nonetheless.

Despite the way the river has impacted the land around it, now is a great time to visit the Sacramento. It isn’t the best time to hit swimming holes or let kids play in the water. However, it is right now, as the temperatures increase and the snow melts, that the river takes on the full character of a real mountain river. It flows powerfully and swiftly, racing through rocky flood plains and deep canyons. The Mount Shasta area is fortunate to have such a fantastic waterway.

Mount Shasta Landmark Locator: South Side

Posted by bubbasuess on May 3, 2017
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta. 6 Comments

While not as iconic as the western and northern sides of Mount Shasta, the southern perspective is one of its most beautiful. Though Shastina is visible, the mountain appears to have a somewhat symmetrical appearance and has a certain degree of balance and proportion that is lacking from other sides, especially from the west. There is also a significant amount of fascinating geology exposed on the south side of Mount Shasta. Three glaciers, the Mud Creek,  Konwakiton and Watkins Glaciers are all found on the upper slopes of the south side. They may not be as massive and magnificent as the ones on the north and east sides but they are still quite impressive, especially by California glacier standards. Numerous towers, most notably Thumb Rock and Shastarama Point add a lot of ruggedness to the volcano’s appearance as well. However, it is perhaps Mud Creek that is the most dominant feature on the south side. It may be hard to pick out at first but once it is located, it cannot be avoided. Nonetheless, it is not just the canyon, but the overall arrangement of all these features that makes the view of Mount Shasta’s southern flanks so appealing.

View north side locator here.

View west side locator here.

Click on both images to enlarge them:

The following image has more detail for the heart of the mountain:

Seldom Seen: Castle Creek

Posted by bubbasuess on April 29, 2017
Posted in: Castle Crags, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Rivers, Seldom Seen, Trinity Divide, Water. Tagged: . 5 Comments

The snowy crags of the Grey Rocks gaze down on lively Castle Creek.

Running swiftly through a wide valley flanked by magnificently rugged mountain towers, Castle Creek is easily one of the most scenic waterways in the Mount Shasta area. After the first rank of the area’s three rivers, it is quite possible that Castle Creek is the most scenic creek in the area. Beginning in three basins high in the southern Trinity Divide, the three forks flow steeply down rarely visited mountain canyons until they join together in the valley that lies beneath the watchful gaze of the mighty Castle Crags and the mysterious Grey Rocks (also seldom seen!). With a large and powerful flow and its beautiful valley, Castle Creek is a beautiful mountain gem that is seldom seen but waiting to be discovered.

It might seem unusual that such a prominent landmark and one that passes so close to civilization would be considered “seldom seen”. In the case of Castle Creek, this certainly seems to be the case. Despite its proximity to the interstate and Castle Crags State Park, the creek remains a fairly unappreciated landmark in the Mount Shasta area. Aside from a fleeting and unheralded crossing on I-5, most people come into contact with Castle Creek while driving on Forest Road 25, which passes along the base of the Castle Crags. The creek is visible from a few places along the road but is hardly a feature of the drive. It is simply passed by on the way somewhere else.  The state of anonymity experienced by Castle Creek is most likely due to the fact that there are no trails along its course. To experience the creek, one has to be prepared for some bushwhacking and a lot of scrambling on rocks.

Castle Creek Headwaters:

 

Castle Crags from the confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek

Castle Creek is the largest tributary of the Sacramento River between the river’s headwaters and its inundation at Shasta Lake. The headwaters of Castle Creek are also among the highest of the Sacramento’s feeder streams. Three forks of the creek flow down to combine into the large and fast-flowing main stem. The North Fork begins in a large basin at the head of the Castle Crags. There are no lakes in this steep-sloped bowl but there are a few springs and meadows that provide a sustaining flow later in the summer. The Middle Fork is the longest of Castle Creek’s three branches and begins in the beautiful Seven Lakes Basin. The South Fork, the most enigmatic of the three, rises in a very seldom seen basin on the east side of the Grey Rocks. This basin includes Grey Rock Lake and a few smaller unnamed lakes. The confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento has already been addressed in this series but it is worth noting that it is a place of great beauty and easily one of the most picturesque spots in the Mount Shasta region.

The three forks tumble down their respective canyons in a steep and vigorous descent to the valley floor. The confluence of the three forks is in fairly rapid succession to the main stem of Castle Creek which is birthed fairly rapidly. Once all three forks combine, Castle Creek only flows for a little less than 3 miles before joining the Sacramento River but it is a remarkable and beautiful 3 miles. The creek is wide, with a rocky creekbed. Large granite boulders are strewn about, offering lots of visual interest and rock scrambling opportunities. In spring, when the water flow is high, the creek has a beautiful turquoise hue.

The Grey Rocks rise above Castle Creek Valley.

The most prominent landmark easily visible from the creek are the Grey Rocks, the tall, craggy turrets that are the dominant peaks of the southern Trinity Divide. The stunning Castle Crags are often frustratingly obscured from the creek, though the tops of the granite spires are still visible at times. The floor of the valley is rocky with patches of pine, cedar and oak occasionally broken up by small meadows. Several smaller creeks flow into Castle Creek, most of them originating in the Castle Crags. The most prominent of these are Indian, Dump, Sulphur and Burstarse. The latter two are notable for having excellent waterfalls or lovely cascades over granite slabs. The south side of Castle Creek’s valley is bounded by long Flume Creek Ridge. Not much water flows off of this forested wall, but in spring when it is covered in snow, it is a pretty sight.

Spring is the best time to visit Castle Creek. The tall, snow covered peaks, blue water and strong flow make it a gorgeous sight. This is especially tree for folks who, after a long winter, are eager to get back up into the mountains. The creek is not high but the setting and rugged mountains make it feel like it is much higher in elevation than it is. Indeed, despite having a paved coming alongside, when you are on the creekbank, it feels like you could be 50 miles from the nearest road, gazing at mountain stream in a deep wilderness.

One of the smaller waterfalls on Burstarse Creek.

If you do choose to explore Castle Creek, be prepared for a primitive experience. It is easy to get to, but access is almost entirely of the bushwhacking variety. However, there are a few trails nearby and some other recreational amenities. The Pacific Crest Trail traverses the flanks of the Castle Crags high above the creek. Views of the valley are possible from a few places on the trail. The PCT can also be used to reach the beautiful waterfalls on Burstarse Creek. The Flume Trail also travels within earshot of Castle Creek and also features an impressive overlook of Castle Creek’s valley. Castle Crags State Park also has a small walk-in campground not far from the creek. There are also several primitive campsites along the water at the west end of the valley.

A Castle Creek Gallery (click to enlarge):

Castle Creek Watershed:

A Mount Shasta “Seldom Seen” Round Up

Posted by bubbasuess on April 27, 2017
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Trinity Divide. 3 Comments

Mud Creek Canyon on the south side of Mount Shasta.

In all the writing I do, the subject that generates the most personal interest for me is writing on places that offer incredible scenery but are not known by many people. It has always amazed me at how many places fit into the category. They are often just as spectacular as popular destinations but just lack notoriety. This is true across the board, no matter how popular a place is, whether it is Yosemite or here in Mount Shasta. It was to cover these kinds of places that I started my “Seldom Seen” series shortly after the launch of Hike Mt Shasta. These articles highlight special places but don’t offer instructions on how to get there. For those motivated enough to want to see them for themselves, there are enough clues included that will allow a journey of discovery to take place.

Unfortunately, the work on my books has stymied the production of new Seldom Seen articles the last couple of years. My newest book is set for release in about a month and I don’t have a new project immediately on the docket which means that I will have the summer to get back to exploring the Mount Shasta area and writing more extensively on this area. I have a few different ideas in mind on what I want to focus on, but one of the chief endeavors will be adding 3 or 4 more Seldom Seen articles. With that in mind, I wanted to pull all of the previous articles together and highlight the special places I have written about already.

Areas On Mount Shasta:

The fact that there is a relative paucity of hiking trails on Mount Shasta, it is a source of continual surprise that there are some first-rate destinations on the mountain that have trails leading right to them in the form of old, decommissioned roads, yet they remain almost completely unknown. Other locations are a little harder to get to but are still reasonably accessible locations. In all cases they are absolutely beautiful and worthy of appreciation.

Ash Creek Falls

Mud Creek Canyon

Lower Mud Creek Canyon

Diller Canyon

Areas In The Cascade Range:

Aside from Mount Shasta, the rest of the Cascade Range in the area east of the mountain is something of a mystery. There are not many developed trails and practically no well known destinations. This is probably due to the fact that much of this area is a forgotten ranger district of the Klamath National Forest (the bulk of which lies to the west in the Klamath Mountains) and has been heavily impacted by timber companies. That does not mean that there are no worthy places, however. Indeed, some of the most beautiful terrain in the Mount Shasta area is found here and those hikers who explore this area will find that some particularly spectacular vistas and geology await.

Ash Creek Butte Fossil Rock Glacier

Hole In The Ground Geologic Area

Upper Klamath River Canyon

Areas In The Trinity Divide:

In some ways, the potential for seldom seen destinations is at its greatest in the Trinity Divide. The combination of a large area, complex geology and a patchwork of private and public lands has led to numerous, excellent sites dropping off the radar and avoiding appreciation by most hikers. Indeed, this area is full of spectacular features that are just begging to be appreciated. The Castle Crags offers a lifetime of exploration and discovery. The southern Trinity Divide has almost literally no trails yet features many lakes and mysterious, craggy peaks. The canyons of the Sacramento and the Eddy Range also feature magnificent scenery yet if it lies off the crest of the range it remains almost completely unappreciated. And that says nothing of the Scott Mountains just to the north…

The Grey Rocks

Upper Wagon Creek

Fawn Creek Canyon

Confluence Of The Sacramento River And Castle Creek

Castle Creek

A Seldom Seen Gallery (click to enlarge):