Cascade Range

The Hole In The Ground.

Though it is not obvious from most vantage points, Mount Shasta is not actually on the crest of the Cascades as the range travels from the Lassen region northward into Oregon. The actual crest of the Cascades lies just to the east of the great mountain, running through the area dominated by peaks such as Ash Creek Butte, the Whaleback, the Goosenest and Willow Creek Mountain. Ironically, the truly classic Cascade landscapes are most apparent around the outliers like Mount Shasta, which lies to the west and the Medicine Lake area, which lies well to the east of the crest. Of course, many of the high peaks along the central spine of the range exhibit plenty of volcanic features but for the most part, the core of the range consists of a long series of wooded peaks and ridgelines. Hidden away in these seemingly interminable forested mountains on the east side of the Willow Creek Mountain lies one of the most unique, mysterious and utterly unknown volcanic features to be found in Northern California. The Hole In The Ground Geologic Area, despite its stark and unusual beauty, has managed to stay completely off the radar and rarely sees any visitation. Needless to say, lack of awareness or popularity among the interested public does not necessarily translate into a lack of great beauty and interest.

The central tower of the Hole In The Ground.

All of this begs the obvious question: what is the Hole In The Ground? The answer to that question is at once easy to describe and yet totally elusive. The formation itself is obviously volcanic in origin. Set in the midst of the great sea of green that is the northern most section of the California Cascades, the Hole In The Ground appears to look like an obliquely angled crater. This is particularly true when viewed from afar and must be the genesis of the formation’s name. When viewed up close, it does not resemble a hole in anyway. On the contrary, it appears to be an exceptionally rugged, rocky amphitheater set against a steep and heavily forested ridge. Dominating the entire formation is an oddly sculpted rock tower that is about 75 feet high. Though its genesis is uncertain, it is strikingly similar to the volcanic necks found throughout the Rio Puerco Valley in New Mexico (though those towers are much larger than the one in the Hold In The Ground). Behind the tower are a series of rocky walls that hem in the formation. Radiating out from the tower are beautifully arid badlands. This aspect of the Hole In The Ground seems particularly out of place compared to the lush forest that surrounds this bizarre feature. Amazingly, a small series of springs emerge immediately adjacent to the badlands. Though often only a trickle, the mossy seeps producing the water stand in stunning contrast to the barren landscape of the rest of the Hole In The Ground formation.

The barren beauty of the Hole In The Ground.

Still, the question regarding the formation of this beautiful anomaly lingers. Just how did this striking and strange volcanic feature come to be? What little information on the Hole In The Ground comes through the Forest Service. Surprisingly, the Forest Service implies that the creation of the Hole In The Ground is a mystery. They do believe that the original foundation comes from successive lava flows at some point in the past. It is suggested that this particular spot had lava with a different chemical makeup that made the cooled lava more susceptible to decay. It is also claimed that the Hole In The Ground experienced significant mud slides that helped contribute to both the current shape of the formation and to its being revealed in the general. Once the lava was exposed, it is believed that erosion and other mechanical actions like freezing and unfreezing of water shaped the area into its present form. Whether or not that answer is satisfying, the experience of being there is magnificent. The tremendously unusual nature of the place enhances its beauty tremendously.

View of the Butte Valley from the Hole In The Ground.

Indicative of its anonymity, visiting the Hole In The Ground is an utterly primitive experience. Though it is not hard to get to, one must know precisely where to go because there is no signage alerting adventurers they have arrived at the formation. One must park along a seemingly random dirt road and bushwhack through the forest before reaching the outskirts of the formation. Hiking around the Hole In The Ground should be done cautiously due to the fragility and sensitivity of the badlands and other geologic features. Still, for those who do venture into this fascinating area, the experience has many rewards. The Hole In The Ground itself is tremendously beautiful and has a strong sense of mystery running through it. Great views of Butte Valley and southern Oregon during the hike in and some rarely visited meadows add to the enjoyment of exploring this unusual area.

As always, if anyone is curious about details in getting to the Hole In The Ground, feel free to send me an email.

: The Hole In The Ground Geologic Area

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Fall color explodes as the Klamath River flows through the Upper Klamath River Canyon.

The Klamath River is one of the most important features in California’s North State region. It is easily the largest river in the area. The river begins in south central Oregon, counting the rim of Crater Lake among its various headwaters areas, and courses 263 miles through Oregon and California before reaching the sea roughly between Eureka and Crescent City. Along the way the river drains the bulk of the vast Klamath Mountains, collecting the water from other major rivers including the Shasta, Scott, Salmon and the enormous Trinity River. Though the river is large and passes through areas famous for the high and rugged mountains, it is surprising how much of the river’s travels are through arid, high desert terrain. This is particularly evident in the area between Keno, Oregon and the Horse Creek area in California. The sage and juniper covered slopes of tawny mountains pocked by dark rock outcroppings is a stark contrast to the cool, life-giving waters of the rushing river. The contrast is made even more dramatic considering the harsh desert environment is concentrated along the river corridor and just a few short miles away are the lush mountain meadows of the Marble Mountains and the Siskiyous. Of course, these are not the only mountains within easy reach of the Klamath River. Indeed, though not obvious to the casual observer, the Klamath River has an interesting relationship with the mighty Cascade Range. The Klamath is one of three rivers that begin on the east side of the Cascade Crest and then complete a transection of the mountains. The most famous and dramatic example of this is the Columbia River Gorge, where the Columbia River makes a sea level passage through the heart of the Cascades. Less dramatic but still interesting, the Klamath River and the Pit River further south also cut across the Cascades during the journey to the sea. Both rivers have beautiful, if somewhat less monumental canyons during this impressive feat.

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Fall colors below the Klamath Rim.

The canyon through which the Klamath River achieves its traverse of the Cascade Range is one of the most remote corners of Siskiyou County and receives very little visitation, despite the great natural beauty of the area. Few people venture here for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is that it is simply a long way from anywhere and not promoted at all. Add to that the lack of trails and the large blocks of privately owned land and what few people would venture here is pared down to a relative handful of folks. Still, the canyon of the Upper Klamath (the upper section of the river is considered to be that which is up stream of the Irongate and Copco Reservoirs, which begin at the west end of the canyon) is a fascinating and beautiful formation. The river carved its passage across the Cascades at a low saddle in the range’s crest. North of Willow Creek Mountain, the Cascades subside into a high, forested plateau underlayed by lava flows. The river gouged its path out of the southern end of the plateau, near where the crest rises up toward Willow Creek Mountain. This resulted in what is known as the Klamath Rim, a sharp band of cliffs that line the northern side of the Upper Klamath’s canyon. The rim’s elevation above the river varies but it generally maintains a height of about 1,000 feet. The south side of canyon is marked not by a severe edge like the north, but an undulating series of slopes rising up toward the heavily forested high country. The most interesting feature on the river’s south side is large Secret Springs Mountain, which is an ancient volcano that boasts a surprisingly large crater on its north side. Though the canyon does not have a definite rim on the south side it is still marked by steep walls broken intermittently by deep canyons of tributary creeks. The most notable is Shovel Creek, which begins in a large meadow at the divide near Little Shasta meadows, the headwaters of the Little Shasta River.

As noted earlier, the river receives little visitation in part because of the lack of public land. There are no maintained trails along the river. Still, the area is ripe for exploration by those interested in seeing a beautiful place that is seldom seen. A very well maintained gravel road follows the south side of the river through the canyon, eventually passing into Oregon on its way to meeting Highway 66. The land owner along much of the river is Pacific Power and they have established 6 river access points for fishermen to use. Thankfully these offer opportunities to get down close to the river and enjoy short walks along the banks. The sixth one is the most scenic. As one heads north toward Oregon, the last little bit of the river passes through BLM land just below the border. The BLM has established a put in site for rafters with some minor amenities, including a pit toilet. This area is a fantastic and utterly underused camping spot. Solitude in this incredible canyon, along a gorgeous river is practically guaranteed. For those interested in adventure, an ascent up Secret Springs Mountain is excellent and exploring the area along the river is great. Fall is the best time to come, when the autumn colors explode along the river and the temperatures are perfect.