Mud Creek Canyon

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Gazing Into The Heart Of Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on June 17, 2019
Posted in: Cascade Range, Hiking, Meadows, Mount Shasta. Tagged: , . Leave a comment

Sunrise from the muddy meadow. 

A couple of days ago I go up before 5AM in order to catch the sunrise. Normally if I don’t see any interesting clouds on the mountain I will stay in bed but this time I planned to go to Mud Creek Meadow, which I prefer to call to Konwakiton Meadow (Konwakiton meaning ‘muddy’ in Wintu). The meadow has a fantastic view of Mount Shasta. This particular perspective is appealing for a couple of reasons. First, it is one of the few perspectives from which Shastina is not visible. Obviously I have nothing against Mount Shasta’s awesome secondary cone. However, Shastina does have a tendency to strike Mount Shasta’s profile into a particular form balance. It is a nice change of pace to view Mount Shasta as a solitary cone possessing simple lines climbing inexorably towards the summit. The best such view, and the one the looks the least “Mount Shasta” is from Ash Creek Butte but the one from Konwakiton is quite pleasing as well. The second reason the view from the meadow is excellent is due to the opportunity it presents to examine the magnificent features found in Mount Shasta’s Mud Creek basin.

Geologists believe that Mud Creek Basin is cut into “proto Mount Shasta”, the earliest parts of the mountain as we know it. Of the four major cones that form Mount Shasta, the Sargents Ridge Cone is the oldest. The flanks of the cone have been excavated by the Konwakiton Glacier, exposing towers, strata and stone the were once on the interior of the primordial Shasta heap. In the center of this geologic timescape is cut spectacular Mud Creek Canyon. This great trough cuts further into the mountain, forming the longest, deepest canyon on Mount Shasta. Wildness of the canyon cannot be overstated. Its unstable slopes still seek their angle of repose and are augmented by the unlikely presence of large hoodoos. It is one of the mountains grandest features.

Mud Creek Canyon viewed from Konwakiton Meadow.

A view of Mud Creek Canyon from the rim (image from November 2013).

Standing in the meadow at dawn, I was struck at how apparent so many of the landmarks around the Mud Creek basin were. Shastarama Point, Thumb Rock and the Konwakiton Glacier were all obvious. Most obvious, however, was Mud Creek Canyon. The great chasm was so striking one could not help but observe it piercing into the heart of Mount Shasta. Filled with snow dirtied by scree still sloughing off the canyons walls, it is a window into the mountain’s violent, eruptive past. Even 10 miles away from the canyon it inspires awe and humility.

Mount Shasta has many outstanding features but Mud Creek Canyon is one of its greatest. I would encourage anyone to explore the canyon, either from its rim high up on Mount Shasta or from below, observing it from one of the few vantages at which it is visible. It is “national park caliber” scenery and typically goes unappreciated from most of the mountain’s admirers. It certainly deserves renown that it has.

Mud Creek Canyon plainly visible cutting deep into Mount Shasta.

Seldom Seen: Lower Mud Creek Canyon

Posted by bubbasuess on June 8, 2014
Posted in: Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Waterfalls. Tagged: . 8 Comments
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Mount Shasta gazes down into lower Mud Creek Canyon.

Mount Shasta is a mighty mountain with formidable geography. Its towering, icy heights soar far above everything else in its presence and much of the mighty volcano is cloaked in mystery to the average person. This is with good reason, considering the skills required to climb the high slopes. However, what comes as a surprise is the extent to which the mountain’s mystery extends to the lower flanks and obscures from view many sights that would normally attract hikers. This is the case with Ash Creek Falls, Diller Canyon and many, many other places that are quite easy to get to, if there was an awareness of their existence or their accessibility. This is the case with Lower Mud Creek Canyon, a lost gem on the southern flanks of Mount Shasta.

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Epic Mud Creek Canyon.

Mud Creek Canyon is easily among the most dramatic, spectacular features on Mount Shasta. If the mountain had been designated a national park as John Muir had advocated, the canyon would surely draw more attention and have achieved an iconic status. Even though Mud Creek Canyon languishes obscurity it remains one of the most staggering and stupendous natural wonders in California. Beginning high on the south side of Mount Shasta, at the foot of the Konwakiton Glacier, the canyon begins its epic descent down the flanks of the mountain. At its mouth, nascent Mud Creek pours several hundred feet over Konwakiton Falls. Below the waterfall the narrow canyon deepens considerably while the creek disappears beneath a layer of scree-encrusted ice and loose rubble. Nearly a mile below Konwakiton Falls the canyon widens and takes on the classice V-shape of the other gorges on the flanks of Mount Shasta. However, while the shape may be the same, the proportion is not. Rather than being several hundred feet deep like canyon siblings, this section of Mud Creek Canyon is well over 1,000 feet deep. Its scale is simply epic. The large V-shaped section comes to an end at an impressive band of cliffs where Mud Creek flows of its magnificent, eponymously named waterfall, the largest on Mount Shasta. Below the falls Mud Creek is joined by Clear Creek, which has just completed its own 1,400 foot descent down a series of awesome cascades. Below the confluence, the canyon takes on a more typical appearance with wooded slopes punctuated by occasional cut banks, though it is still nearly 800 feet deep. From here the canyon is lost from the public consciousness as its journey takes it beyond the sight of any trails. It does not emerge into view again until its journey is nearly complete and is crossed by Pilgrim Creek Road and Highway 89.

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Wild flowing Mud Creek.

Naturally most attention given to Mud Creek Canyon, scant though it generally may be, is lavished on the splendid upper section. The massive scale, staggering canyon and awesome waterfalls are naturally going to draw the attention of hikers. The lower canyon is utterly forsaken. Few people think to explore what possibilities it might hold and fewer still purpose to explore this lost section of canyon. What lies beyond the curtain of mystery is a fantastically scenic canyon. Mud Creek is untamed and raucous, the forests are deep and ancient and a vital sense of wilderness pervades the canyon. Surprisingly, it is not difficult to penetrate the unknown and enjoy the beautiful canyon. An old road once pushed into the wooded canyon and ran parallel to Mud Creek. The lower section of the road saw some logging activity a long time ago. Passed these areas the old run enters the Mount Shasta Wilderness and quickly degrades into what would more accurately be described as a trail. Though there are signs of recent activity they are minimal and it is obvious that the canyon has been lost to all but a mere handful of people.

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A large cut bank on Mud Creek.

Without doubt, the most interesting feature in lower Mud Creek Canyon is Mud Creek itself. The creek runs all year and is, along with Squaw Valley Creek, one of the two largest creeks that begin on Mount Shasta. Its character resembles its distant relatives, the large rivers that rise full-grown from the glaciers on the Cascade giants to the north like Mounts Rainier and Hood. On those grand mountains, rivers such as the Sandy, Zigzag, White, Cowlitz and Puyallup Rivers emerge from their similarly named glaciers and flow off their host mountain. Like those river, Mud Creek begins its journey on the Konwakiton Glacier. Also like those rivers, its channel is wide and strewn with the detritus of Mount Shasta that has been carved off by glacial activity and subsequent erosion. Also like those rivers, Mud Creek does not flow clearly and is clouded by glacial flour and other bits of Mount Shasta as it slowly grinds away at the mountain. While much smaller than the aforementioned rivers, Mud Creek is still a large creek and its channel is cut deeply into the canyon. In fact, the river has a secondary course within the primary channel. The main channel is 20-30 or more feet deep and composed of the boulders and loose silt Mud Creek has washed off of Mount Shasta’s higher flanks. Within that channel the creek winds and weaves its way through the rocks. Numerous cut banks add a rugged and evolving beauty to the creek and canyon. Mud Creek is quite wild and very attractive and its character is entirely different from the other large creeks in the Mount Shasta area. For this reason alone lower Mud Creek Canyon is worth exploring.

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Lower Mud Creek Canyon’s lost waterfall.

The real highlight of journeying into the lower section of Mud Creek Canyon is the delightful waterfall hidden away in the canyon’s lost recesses. While there are several unnamed and unappreciated waterfalls on Mount Shasta, nearly all of them are at higher elevations, require long or difficult drives, cross country exploration or are simply inaccessible because of the terrain. Consequently, Mount Shasta is generally not thought of as a premier waterfall destination and several truly stunning waterfalls go unappreciated. Ironically, the waterfall in lower Mud Creek Canyon is easy to reach and, while it lacks the height of the other waterfalls on Mount Shasta, is wonderfully attractive. Pouring over a hard, erosion-resistant bench, the falls shoot through an extremely narrow section of the canyon. The top of the waterfall is constricted by a trio of boulders, forcing the water to gush through a fairly narrow slot. A pair of smaller waterfalls spill through the gaps between the three boulders. Below the narrow upper section of the falls, the water hits the dense rock and explodes into a wide fan as it crashes into the rocks at the bottom. The entire waterfall is about 25 feet or so high. Not tall, but especially scenic and made all the more so by being thoroughly unknown.

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Shasta Red Firs surround Red Fir Falls.

It seems fitting that the falls should have a name. The logical choice would be Lower Mud Creek Falls but this lacks a certain `elan. This falls is also very distinct in character from its sibling further upstream and fails to take into account the possibility of additional cataracts hidden in the deep recesses of Mud Creek Canyon. In fact, considering that the lost falls is more than two miles downstream from Mud Creek Falls, the two seem to have little to do with each other except for being on the same creek. Consequently, the “lower” appellation seems all the more inappropriate. Unfortunately, there are few other names in the area that would be fitting to adapt into a name for the waterfall. The only really viable option is nearby Red Fir Ridge. The wall that forms the west side of lower Mud Creek Canyon rises over 1,000 feet to a long ridge, which is the Red Fir Ridge. The presence of excellent old growth Shasta red fir throughout lower Mud Creek Canyon and especially around the falls makes the Red Fir moniker all the more apropos. Consequently, at least for the purposes of discussion on Hike Mt Shasta, the waterfall in lower Mud Creek Canyon is dubbed Red Fir Falls.

Whether hikers are seeking solitude, a wild, boisterous creek or a great waterfall, lower Mud Creek Canyon is a fantastic destination and is begging to be explored and appreciated.

Lower Mud Creek Canyon Gallery

As always, for those interested in learning the route to lower Mud Creek Canyon, send me an email and I will give directions.

Seldom Seen: Mud Creek Canyon

Posted by bubbasuess on November 1, 2013
Posted in: Glaciers, Hiking, Mount Shasta, Seldom Seen, Waterfalls, Wilderness. Tagged: , . 21 Comments
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Jaw-dropping view of Mud Creek Canyon on Mount Shasta.

As John Muir once noted, Mount Shasta is the polestar of Northern California. Geographically, the entire region orients around the incredibly massive volcano. It is one of the premier mountains in the U.S. Whether one is considering height, volume, wildness or sheer beauty, Mount Shasta is one of the great treasures of the American West. Though it ranks high in the esteem of mountain lovers, most of the mountain’s geography is shrouded in mystery for the majority of those who admire it. There are many incredible spots on the mountain, places of tremendous beauty and staggering scale, which go almost completely unappreciated. Perhaps there is no truer example of this than the case of Mud Creek Canyon. Easily one of the most dominant features on Mount Shasta, it ranks equally with Shastina and the mountain’s quartet of gigantic glaciers. While Shastina is easily recognized from far below and at least the Whitney and Bolam Glaciers are obvious from the Shasta Valley, Mud Creek Canyon remains unobserved from areas below the mountain. This is a consequence of the canyon’s position above the vast McCLoud Flats, a heavily wooded area with a paucity of good, elevated vantage points from which to observe the mountain. What the canyon lacks in ease of viewing, it makes up for in the enormity of its scale. Considering that it cuts into the flank of a single peak, its 6 mile length and depth of over 1,000 feet is truly imposing. That such a magnificent feature remains so seldom seen is testimony to how wild Mount Shasta really is.

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The primordial heart of Mount Shasta.

Cutting deeply into Mount Shasta’s southeastern flank, Mud Creek Canyon is a place of wild, hellish beauty. It begins at the foot of the Konwakiton Glacier, one of three small glaciers that are scattered around the south side of the mountain. Of course, these glaciers are only small when compared to the behemoths that cloak the north and east sides of the mountain. The Konwakiton Glacier still manages to cover over 1,500 vertical feet of Mount Shasta. The glacier clings to the upper portion of a vast amphitheater just below the volcano’s summit. In addition to the icy features, this broad bowl is lined with craggy spires and rocky pinnacles, evidence of the fiery past that shaped Mount Shasta. Indeed, this area and Mud Creek Canyon below it are considered to be the oldest exposed areas on Mount Shasta, remnants of a proto-Shasta from prior eruptive periods. At a basic empirical level this seems reasonable. No other area on the mountain exhibits such tortured geology. The amphitheater also gathers meltwater from the Mud Creek Glacier and the large Misery Snowfield. All of the runoff is funneled down into the canyon where it plunges over a tall waterfall that is unnamed but known unofficially as Konwakiton Falls. Though at times wispy, the falls certainly boast one of the grandest settings imaginable for a waterfall.

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“Thor’s Hammers” in Mud Creek Canyon.

Below Konwakiton Falls the canyon deepens significantly as it gouges its path through the ash and rock that make up the mountain’s flank. This is a truly wild, seldom seen and seldom traveled place. In truth, it is a never-traveled place for the slopes of the canyon are seemingly boundless screefields. When standing on the rim of the canyon, listen for the sound of falling boulders clattering down into the unreachable depths. The sides of Mud Creek Canyon are still in search of their angle of repose. Those who are patient enough may even see small scree slides up near the top of the canyon. While most of the canyon’s walls are loose debris, they are punctuated by giant hoodoos emerging from the scree and towering over 100 feet above the rubble. Indicative of the mountain’s volcanic history, the hoodoos are particularly reminiscent of the Thor’s Hammer hoodoo in Bryce Canyon National Park. I have taken to referring to these twisted towers as Thor’s Hammers in honor of the famous landmark in Utah. Another fascinating feature at the bottom of Mud Creek Canyon is the permanent ice. The ice is nearly completely obscured by layers of talus that has slid over it. Though these patches of ice are not glaciers, they do exhibit some glacial features.

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Spring-covered Mud Creek Canyon.

Rock and fire are not the only forces that created Mud Creek Canyon. Water has played a tremendous role in the formation of this incredible gash on the side of Mount Shasta. Mud Creek roars through countless rapids at the bottom of the canyon. It is loudly audible from high overhead on the canyon rim. Amazingly, the sides of the canyon are littered with springs, especially the areas further down-canyon from the uppermost section where the hoodoos are located. The layers of material within the mountain are exposed on the sides of the canyon and the aquifers that exist between certain strata are cut open and flow down the sides. One unexpected result of this is the abundance of riparian plant life that clings to the thin margin of water on the otherwise barren slope. However, despite the beautiful and unusual abundance of springs on the side of the canyon, it is Mud Creek Falls that is the most memorable water feature here. The large, powerful waterfall thunders over a cliff that is well over 150 feet high. The cataract is the largest waterfall on Mount Shasta and is second only to Ash Creek Falls in terms of beauty.

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Mud Creek Canyon and Falls from the Clear Creek Trail.

It is a wonder that, for all of its size, beauty and fascinating geology, Mud Creek Canyon has remained so seldom seen. Most who do observe it do so from high above while climbing up to the summit of Mount Shasta. It is also viewed by those who hike the Clear Creek Trail. This is actually one of the two trails on Mount Shasta that offer a good opportunity to experience Mud Creek Canyon. The Clear Creek Trail ascends the rim of the lower canyon, which is the area downstream from the confluence of Mud Creek and Clear Creek. The view from the trail is astounding. Mud Creek canyon extends up toward the summit, its deep V-shaped gap incising deep into the mountain. Mud Creek Falls is prominently visible from this perspective and is a particularly memorable highlight. A few intrepid adventurers descend into the canyon and repel down the falls. The other way to get to Mud Creek Canyon to is to hike to beautiful South Gate/Squaw Meadows. From there, one can make a fairly easy cross country scramble to the west rim of the canyon. If one completes the scramble correctly, there is a stunning perch perfectly positioned to get a panoramic view of the most of Mud Creek’s gargantuan gorge. One can trace the course from Konwakiton Glacier, down the eponymously named waterfall, through the hellish, hoodoo lined upper canyon, down the vast spring-lined main part of the canyon and onwards, downstream into the lower canyon. I have dubbed this vista “Grand View Point” in an obvious nod to the point of the same name at the Grand Canyon. Like an observation deck, the vista has a nice wall of rock fencing it off and preventing those fortunate to make it here from sliding into the canyon. While standing here taking in this awe-inspiring but seldom seen view one can hear the roar of Mud Creek mix with the sound of boulders clattering down to the bottom of the canyon, evidence that Mount Shasta is a living mountain still taking shape.

As always, if anyone is curious about details in getting to these places, feel free to send me an email.

Mud Creek Canyon

Vistas, Meadows, And Waterfalls: Three Best Hikes On Mount Shasta

Posted by bubbasuess on July 22, 2013
Posted in: Hiking, Meadows, Mount Shasta, Waterfalls, Wilderness. Tagged: , , , , , , , , , . 9 Comments
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Mount Shasta and Ash Creek Falls.

It is undeniable that Mount Shasta is the polestar of the northstate’s geography. It is roughly at the geographic center of the region and is also centrally located between the Klamath Mountains and the Modoc Plateau, near the crest of the Cascade Range that cuts across the state’s north/south axis. Obviously location is not the extent of the explanation for Mount Shasta’s gravitational pull on the surrounding area. It is simply a massive, spectacular mountain of epic proportions that stands over a mile above the next tallest peak. Such incredible size and beauty naturally offers great hiking opportunities and Mount Shasta does not disappoint when it comes to great trails. There are 9 established trails on Mount Shasta (of course, there are numerous other unofficial hiking routes) and all of them are very scenic.

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Glacier-clad Mount Shasta above the Clear Creek Trail.

It goes without saying that all of the trails on Mount Shasta offer amazing scenery and are worth hiking. Whether one is looking for meadows, glaciers, waterfalls, far-reaching views, great views of Mount Shasta itself, solitude, or adventure, the trails on the solitary volcano will supply all of these things and satisfy the thirst for the opportunity to enjoy one of nature’s finest achievements. While all the trails are great, there are three that I find rise above the others. Each of them must have diverse, spectacular scenery, the opportunity for lots of cross-country exploration and lead to premier destinations on Mount Shasta. Furthermore, I have an additional set of qualifications a trail must meet in order to rank high on my personal list. Most importantly, a trail has to have running water somewhere along it, preferably in the form of a waterfall. Other important considerations are consistent views (as opposed to being under constant forest canopy) and lots of rock or cliffs along the trail.

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The large cataract flows through the middle of Squaw Meadow.

Most of these elements are present on nearly all of Mount Shasta’s trails to some degree but three trails have these qualities in abundance. Consequently, these are my three favorite trails on the mountain and the three trails I would most recommend to hikers in search of the optimal Mount Shasta hiking experience. These trails are the Clear Creek Trail, the Brewer Creek Trail and the Squaw Meadow Trail. All of these hikes have exceptional views, both of Mount Shasta and the surrounding region. They all have running water and fall and waterfalls in one form or another. Moreover, they all boast beautiful meadows of varying size (though in the case of the Brewer Creek Trail, it is just a narrow margin of grassy meadow along the banks of the creek). None of the trails are hard, rising and falling at a reasonable grade. Lastly, of all the trails on Mount Shasta, these three trails have the best cross-country destinations. If I had to rate these three trails against each other, I would say Clear Creek comes in third, Brewer Creek second and Squaw Meadow would be the top choice. This was not easy for me to determine because each trail is exceptional.

3. Clear Creek Trail

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Astounding view of Mount Shasta and Mud Creek Canyon.

Climbing Mount Shasta’s southeastern slopes, the Clear Creek Trail offers an incredible abundance of superlatives. Essentially a steady ascent along the rim of massive Mud Creek Canyon, the first two-thirds of the trail offers excellent wildflowers and staggering views into the gargantuan canyon, the largest on Mount Shasta. Powerful Mud Creek Falls, dwarfed by the canyon through which it flows, is a highlight. Clear Creek itself tumbles over a long series of cataracts as it rushes to its confluence with Mud Creek. The mighty cone of Mount Shasta dominates the scene overhead. Eventually the trail reaches treeline and enters a massive basin over which hang the Mud Creek, Konwakiton and Watkins Glaciers. A large complex of springs constitutes the headwaters of Clear Creek and creates a series of lovely meadows. Off-trail exploring leads down to Mud Creek Falls, lower Clear Creek or up to the summit of Mount Shasta.

2. Brewer Creek Trail

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Mount Shasta and its glaciers high above Brewer Creek.

The lonely Brewer Creek Trail is the only path that explores the vast, isolated expanse of Mount Shasta’s eastern flank. The views of Mount Shasta are simply stunning, possibly the best of any single trail on Mount Shasta. This particular perspective of Shasta has a bit of a grander feel than most because the Wintun and Hotlum Glaciers (Mount Shasta and California’s 3rd and 1st largest) are very prominent, with their attendant bergscherunds, icefalls and crevasses. The trail eventually ends at small but beautiful and clear-running Brewer Creek, where the small fringe of meadow and diminutive cataracts create a lush environment seemingly out of place in the barren volcanic landscape. Those looking for more adventure and make the off-trail trip to gorgeous Ash Creek Falls. The creek is outflow from the Wintun Glacier and passes through a starkly beautiful canyon before pouring 330 feet over a lip of hard, erosion-resistant rock. Mount Shasta, presiding overhead makes the scene utterly unforgettable. Views of the southernmost Cascade, including Lassen Peak are just icing on the cake. Ash Creek Falls is my personal favorite spot on Mount Shasta.

1. Squaw Meadow Trail

Squaw Meadow

Squaw Meadow

Perhaps the most diverse trail on Mount Shasta, the trail to Squaw Meadow provides the rare opportunity to enjoy a loop on Mount Shasta. Beginning in lovely Panther Meadow, the trail climbs through excellent old-growth red fir forest before breaking out into incredibly barren volcanic terrain with great views of Mount Shasta and Red Butte. A side trail leads to the summit of Gray Butte and incredible views while a cross-country route makes a great circumnavigation of Red Butte. After passing through the Gate, a narrow gap between Sargents Ridge and Red Butte, the trail eventually arrives at the bottom of Squaw Meadow, the largest meadow on Mount Shasta. It is a stunning view with Shastarama Point dominating the horizon beyond the meadow. A massive 100 foot cataract divides the lower section of the meadow from the upper section and the headwaters springs. Views to the south from the upper meadow include the southern Cascades and Lassen Peak. Numerous cross-country routes provide lots of interesting exploration. The best is to head east from the meadow to the rim of Mud Creek Canyon where one can observe Konwakiton Falls. On the return trip, the loop breaks away just after passing through the gate and climbs through small Hummingbird Meadow to a ridge above the Old Ski Bowl. More excellent views of Mount Shasta are abundant, as is the spectacular vista to the west, including the Trinity Divide and the serrated peaks of the Trinity Alps. The trail then descends through the Old Ski Bowl and then drops down to Panther Meadow, completing the spectacular loop.